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slo1quick last won the day on May 10 2019

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About slo1quick

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    Dunlop Super2 Series Driver

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  1. Stunning cars you have made them into Chris!
  2. Hi David Grill, Tail lights, bonnet scoops and Strips that I can see Cavalier did a 1/24 scale distributed by ADR. Very hard to come by now but the grill is a separate casting if you can find someone willing to cast you one. Stu
  3. Nice work there Greg! Tires look great too. What shore rating and are they the same shore front and rear?
  4. Thanks for all the work behind the scenes guys!
  5. slo1quick

    Blimey It,s Big

    Crikey.... that,s Big....
  6. slo1quick

    Blimey It,s Big

    Looks pretty cool Mr. Gunn ! Nice and low.....
  7. Are you confusing a centering hole with a pilot hole Rosco. A centre hole is drilled with a centre drill. A smaller drill bit is not a centre drill.
  8. Very nice Chris. Crisp, clean, simply elegant! No doubt a lot more in it than meets the eye. You often use square tube to house the front axle, is this to reduce friction and/or something other? Cheers Stu
  9. Not drilling the grub all the way through will remove the path of least resistance. You need to drill down as far as and slightly into the boss of the rim to make a starting point to continue drilling your pilot for the grub. Though, As you've demonstrated, when you continued the grub screw hole through with the drill, you equaled up the path of least resistance and the the hole was ok, yeah?
  10. If you could buy the perfect wheel for every occasion, would you bother buying a lathe? ....Myself, I would still buy the lathe I have learnt not to drill a hole in stock, even aluminium, with an opening perpendicular to the hole Im drilling with a drill bit any smaller than that of the perpendicular hole, bore yes drill no. Even with larger drills though they are more forgiving. I always leave the grub hole till last, because I drill it... this rim design wont allow for drilling last, end milling doable, but not drilling. The pilot hole for your grub screw was necessary because it was located on the edge of the rim where there is an uneven load on the drill. The drill has a tapered tip which will follow the path of least resistance readily. Same as the grub screw hole which penetrates into the proposed axle hole, it has created a path of least resistance. Mill bits have a square end which has the ability to hold true even under uneven load, within specs. Keep up your diligence Rosco, though its strayed from the build a little it has highlighted an integral build problem associated with the build. There are many off the shelf items available for putting a slot car together but sometimes its just enjoyable to be able to make something at will and with a little bespokeness about it.
  11. Thanks for the link guys! Yes Rosco, working to very tight tolerances. It really makes you appreciate how much time and effort the wheel manufacturers put into their wheels! Broken drill with basically one flute ground off. This gives you an idea of the leading angle, which doesn''t really matter, its just what it ended up as. The tip is rounded with a 1200 grit diamond stone to take sharp point off. Got no idea what radius just a few haphazard strokes. I dont trust plunge boring it into the face of the stock but ok to just take a whisker of material off. I use a loupe when eye balling this into position. The straight nail looking thing to the right is the simple reamer to follow up the bore. It is a bit of 3/32 W1 silver steel sanded in a drill to be a near perfect fit for the slot it axles. One end is a tri point and the other just at an cute angle, the surfaces are polished with Arkansas stone to sharpen them up. Its a simple reamer to make and one that can be made using the axle the same as what is intended for the rim. This is really where the slightly undersized .0925 drill comes in handy too. Hope this helps
  12. Agreed And it will be a great little lathe once set up.
  13. C3 huh..... Still Siegs are the ones to get. Sutton drills are very good, never been able to order Sutton drills from the local bearing supplies here, not in the sizes I was chasing anyway. A minimum quantity order thing I recall. Can get the the #42 (.0935) drill at local bearing supplies readily in other brands though. The .0925 drills I have are Kyocera, off Ebay I know Sutton do a 2.35mm drill, same as .0925 or close enough. # 42 is the one to get unless you have a heap of NSR axles. I use the same small hand feeding chuck that you have to drill axle holes but put it in a MT2 ER25 chuck in the tailstock, its not protruding as far as when put the drill chuck. Purchased all these from Arc Euro trade many moons ago. Way before Ausee Machines and tools was around. They have the same products. This is generally how I do axle holes and is sometimes good, sometimes just ok as far as concentricity goes Sometimes a fair amount work goes into finishing detail or getting a particular feature like a disc brake look or wheels with multiple components and forget to do the hole for the axle prior. This is when I resort to the 2.3mm drill finished with the miniature boring bit as I feel like I have more control on the final outcome being more concentric. Drilling it is a very touchy feely thing and you dont know if the wheel is good or buggered until its drilled. Re checking tailstock alignment; Be sure to measure along the shafting when the tailstock is wound in AND again when it is wound out. A variation here will show that the tailstock quill is not on a concentric path. I took a photo of the drill bit borer and a simple axle reamer I use to follow this method up with, but my computer cautions when Dropshots tries to load Who's the go with Photo hosting these days? Its been a while since I've done it. cheers
  14. I'll more than likely drill the 3/32" axle hole before boring the open end tomorrow.. and drill through into wheel #2 as well.... negates the need to centre drill the next one.. Hi Rosco Great tutorial you have going on here. I hope you are enjoying the trials and tribulations of making rims. Using the above method to centre is not an accurate one. As you have move along the stock from one rim to the next, you move away from your original centre at the start of your first rim. Considering your now on your 5th and 6th rims and assuming each rim requires something like 15mm of stock including the parting off, the centering for your 5th rim is now in the order of 60mm along from your original centre and using a drill to centre. Stock doesnt hold your drill straight in this process. This drill is narrow, relatively speaking, anything over 3 x the diameter of a drill bit is considered a long drill hole. So very difficult to maintain absolute concentricity ! Each wheel is most probably slightly out but not obviously so it hard to detect until the 5th or 6th one is compared to the 1st, which was centred accurately. I find turning and boring the rim out first before I drill, leaving with about 3.5-4mm left to drill gives me most consistent results. and centre each rim with a centering drill. I also use a .0935 (#42) drill for drilling slot It and most other axles usually. It gives the desired tolerance fit, 3/32 gives a clearance fit, it tends to pull the rim of the axle centre when snug up with the grub screw NSR axles I use a .0925 drill bit, they are slightly smaller for some reason. the best results I find are when I actually bore the axle after pre centering then drilling using a 2.3mm bit then bore it. My boring bit is very small, a ground down broken 4mm drill bit in a square sleeve mounted to the compound. very time consuming but worth the effort. Keep up the good fight Cheers
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