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paulthetexan last won the day on April 1 2016

paulthetexan had the most liked content!

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About paulthetexan

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    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 06/11/1965

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    Motorcycles , Guitars , Slot Cars , Blues Music
  1. Muscle cars are easy......they all run they same chassis dimension and the bodies are all within a gram or two of each other. Any body will work. 1/32 GT. A Panoz with lexan interior would be cool but I'd stick with ScaleAuto/NSR lightweight bodies. If you get stuck give me a buzz , I'm selling up most of my cars/bodies/parts and controllers.
  2. I like to keep it simple. I've tried a few different controllers and in the end they all perform well. Recently I have moved away from 1/24 and started enjoying 1/32 plastics again, pulled out my trusty 25 and 45 ohm parma ecconomy controllers and off I went. I'd stick with the ecconomy controllers and save some money , they do the job just fine. I think you've been on the right track all along........
  3. paulthetexan


    I have a scx skoda Octavia no. 11 white/green/blue/red as new needs tyres. Rx81 motor is ordinary. Pm sent
  4. I have one BNIB. Red Bull ? Happy to trade for Camaro C3219 or C3106 or Slot.it CAO3H porche 962. Also open to offers. Love Fly cars...... All else fails $80 + post Or maybe the Johnson Shuppan Falcon C3530 or........or........or.........
  5. Glad to see you on the pace. Nice to see times coming down with tuning. R34 - pull the guide back as far as you can. Cut the back of the guide at 45deg to get turn. Try 13mm tyres. The ol'1900 routine...............Try setting the back up with very little side to side or twisting movement around the axis. Then set the motor box up so the rear of the motor box flexes up and down. Hopefully the car will squat under breaking and arch during acceleration , driving the guide into the slot. Good luck this weekend.
  6. Hi Brett Most of the guys that travel have metal cases that you can buy from bunnings for $25 or so. The trick is to buy 2 of them and take the lids off. Then join the 2 bottoms together for your cars and contrller and join the 2 lids together to make a tool box for your tools and parts. One of the guys (Paul NZ) up here was making them a while back but has dropped out of slotcars for a while. $50 and a few rivets, can't be too hard for a talented guy like yourself. Scoll down this page until you get to Jazzbell's box. He managed to squeeze 18 cars and a controller in easily enough. http://www.auslot.co...14/page__st__80 Hope this helps
  7. paulthetexan

    Bat Mobile

    Hi guys I'm looking for a bat mobile for my 12yr old son. Probably looking for the later models or tumbler. I don't think he would identify with the sixties version. Anyway hopefully someone has got one gathering dust. Let me know if you have something to sell or trade. Cheers Paul
  8. How did you go Brett ? Did you get around to any testing on Friday night ?
  9. Hi Brett Yes , I have sent thru a detail message. In addition to that I just see little detail things, each one on it's own is nothing but all together they will add up to another 5-8gms you can put into the chassis. Lose the lead wire clips , use lite weight guide nut, wheels are a few years behind so new light weight racing wheels , cut the top off chassis screws, Move the front spring all the way forward, change to plastic pinion (loctite 263) , move the floating lead to each side of motor , the lead you have each side of the motor can be reshaped to increase the amount out wide. 11/33 gear won't work with heavy cars , they don't like small spur gears, change to 12/36 or 12/37. Fit plastic axle spacers to rear axle. Make sure your wheels are spaced out to the limit of the body. I notice the Audi in the back ground the wheels are well within the gaurds. Let me know how you go.........
  10. I'm trying to get a certain car to do a lap time I know the car needs to do to be competitive, rollout is only one thing I'm looking at. What cars is it , can you post a picture of the chassis ?
  11. Just joking around Brett, happy to help anyway I can.....
  12. That's all you get Brett, after beating me with my own car at APC your on the black list I'm pulling a Rossi......... A light body car will always be faster with the same chassis setup.
  13. Hi Brett When you start using it you just get to know rollouts for tracks. Definitely not straight length more overall lap time. Lets say for Mini-Z Narrangbah (smaller track) is 22.6 whereas the APC track at RedRacer runs about 23.8 - 24. The Fat Black is in the middle so thats where you test. 22.8 - 23.5 is still a broad range. I know it still sounds a bit vague but at least you aren't testing at 22 or 27. Then when you arrive you can spend your time learning the track instead of sitting in the pits changing gears all day. I think Jason's red hot Mclaren was only running 22.3? real short but accelerate and break very well which suited the Fat Black. For MCN I would start at 23.8 - 24.0 for Mini-Z and Modern GT. Historics are limited by the 10t pinion so just run the smallest gear you can 10/32-10/33. Use your track as a reference so when you travel you can make gearing taller or shorter accordingly. Apparently the APC track will be run in the reverse direction for the first time so rollouts may change a little , I think it looks a little tighter or less flowing in the reverse direction. Start using the book and you will be a pro in no time, and don't forget to measure the tyres on each individual car before choosing a ratio. It's the rollout figure that is the important info, not the gear which is the end result. Just because you use 12/35 on one Mini-Z doesn,t mean they will all be that way. A change in wheel diameter of 0.25mm can mean 1 tooth on the spur with some cars.
  14. What the? Where do I get this mythical book? Is it suited for a small flowing home track? I purchased mine from Ace Hobbies, however it is more suited to 1/24 commercial tracks.
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