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grt last won the day on October 8 2021

grt had the most liked content!

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About grt

  • Rank
    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 12/15/1957

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    Fellow Scalextric Collector

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  • Location
    Cranbourne, VIC
  • Interests
    Scalextric, Tennis, Golf, Computers, Woodwork,

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  1. Hi Terry, I do make polyurethane copies of a few 1/24 car tyres for various mates, but not specifically for that car. If you can send the dimensions of the tyre, I can see if I have anything close. Regards,
  2. I would certainly be interested. Sounds like a great idea, have always been jealous of the big NSW meets. Graeme
  3. Hi, I make resin copies of the BA wings in plain white for $2 each if you are still looking. I can also paint them up and decal them to specification if you want, but they will cost $5 each. I also do the Ford FG wings and the Holden VX, VY and FE wings. Here are a few recent examples. These are resin reproductions and are not as strong as the original plastic, and I would recommend removing them for racing. Perfect for shelf queens though.
  4. As far as I can tell, the mounting posts have not been shaved to lower the body, and the body lines all seem to line up perfectly to the chassis. But from the pic below, you should be able to see that the supports that come down from the body have been cut off the Ford. These were all bought from 3 different people, so its strange that the exact same mods have been made, or was this done at the factory for some reason? With regards to lowering, the Ford already seems to sit lower than the Holden, so its the Holden if anything that needs to be lowered, as there is a 2 or 3 mm gap from top of tyre to the wheel arch (see bottom pic). Also, the exhaust recess in the side of the Ford doesn't seem to have been deepened, which would surely need to have been done to lower the body? Just has me a little perplexed as it seems to me the wrong cars have been modified, and without any discernible benefit. Just wondering if anyone out there has one of these Falcons and if that they could check whether the bearing support posts have been removed or not?
  5. Not sure if its just coincidence or not, but have recently acquired three used Scalextric "Richards" FG Falcons as part of 2nd hand set purchases, and as I was pulling them apart to clean and tune, I noticed that in all three of them, the previous owner had cut the rear supports out that help hold the motor and bearings in place. The Holden Commodores in the same sets had not been modified at all, and I was wondering if there was a reason for this? Or is it just random coincidence that each owner thought it would make a difference? In the case of the first Falcon I opened, which was running pretty poorly and noisily, the non endbell end (don't know what the proper term is for the arse end of the motor) had popped out of the bracket, presumably because those braces weren't there. And with the second one, the axle popped out while I was trying to fit new tyres (without first removing the body - my bad). It was at that point I noticed the supports in the body top had been removed. So I then checked a third version which I'd had for a while, and it was missing the supports as well, yet the Commodores were all intact. Can anyone enlighten me on this practice? This is the car I am talking about, I don't have any pics of the inside of the body, but will do that later tonight if I remember.
  6. Great Review Rosco, I was so impressed with your initial comments, I decided to get myself one, even though I was not impressed with their earlier 4-door version of the Torana. It was rather disappointing out of the box, but once I trued up both the front and rear tyres, it was a completely different beast. Cannot believe how badly out of round the wheels & tyres were, particularly the front, which I normally don't worry too much about. But as you pointed out, with the axle fixed in position and the tyres level with the guide, it literally bounced all over the place once it picked up any speed. But it ran extremely well on my non-magnet timber track, once the tyres were fixed. Certainly much better than the 4 door, maybe even better than my own resin 4 door on a PCS chassis. I might actually add some lead strips to the chassis just to get the CoG a little lower and improve the grip levels as its a bit tail happy. Cheers,
  7. Will these replace the newer style scalextric mounts? I have a couple of scalextric chassis with broken mounts.
  8. Hi, I'd be interested in getting a Ford BA Chassis printed, but I am in Australia. I can send my details via pm if you are still looking for guinea pigs. Surprised you haven't had any volunteers, or are they contacting you via pm? Cheers,
  9. grt

    Brock - Johnson Sierras

    Although those early Aussie cars were just revamped Escorts, which were terrible to drive, you can convert them into a decent handling car, if you are prepared to butcher it a bit. Wouldn't do it on those rarer Aussie cars, but I did finish off a chassis lowering job I picked up off someone else. I think the ride height was dropped a good 4 or 5 mm, and it makes a huge difference. There are probably neater ways to achieve it, but I decided not to try and undo what had been done, and instead just cleaned it up, added finishing touches and ended up with a fairly decent runner. Gave a Rover the same treatment and it runs even better. There are more pics and comments here: XR3i
  10. There must be some residue of some sort left over from the original paintwork, or some other treatment it received in a former life. Maybe try giving it a really good soak and scrub with Turps? Although check first that the plastic won't be affected, and try Metho if necessary, but its not as effective as Turps. Then give another good scrub with paint soap or pure soap or similar, and then try. I've seen that happen with resin if an old batch was used or the mix wasn't right, but not with plastic, or not to that extent anyway. Good luck!
  11. Oops, forgot to include the Vanwall. The body top was in great condition, but missing the windscreen and exhaust, which I have now made copies of. I think the bottom must have been from a different car, as it had been painted black at some point, then stripped back. But I only had to remove a few specks of paint, then buffed and polished it up to a reasonable finish. Found all the right wheels as well, and the RX motor I grabbed from the box runs very fast indeed, so its a great runner. I know it might be seen as sacrilegious, but I converted this from loop braid to a swivel guide, as there was plenty of room, which meant I could leave the body mounts untouched. Just need to finish it off with the missing bits and number roundels. The other Lotus shells started off as mismatched top and bottom, but then I stumbled across their opposite numbers in a different box - I must really organise myself and sort all my parts boxes out a bit better. The green Cooper I already mentioned, and last is the mismatched BRM top and bottom, which will be repainted in red most likely. In the background, I am trying to sort out and identify all my different driver heads, I think I have 14 different open face ones! Cheers,
  12. Been working on a few projects with all this extra spare time. The 6 later F1s were low hanging fruit that didn't need much more than a good clean, service and the odd part or 2. The Lotus and Cooper both needed quite a bit of work. The Lotus top and bottom were different colours, but were both Austalian made and of the same type, fit together well. Didn't realise there were significant difference is length and mounts between the different types until I tried to match them up to other odd halves I had. I have kept the pin guide and loop braids for now, as I found a complete set in my spares box, along with the correct connector, and dug out an old running RX motor. Not that fast, but nor sure if its the motor or the braids, but will stay that way for now. I repainted both halves in the colour of the top as I figured that would be easier than trying to match either one. I made the exhausts, windscreen and head myself, the rest are all original. The Cooper was also a full restoration job, as both halves were covered in thick acrylic paint, which took a lot of soaking in brake oil, and a careful clean off of the final remnants with Acetone. The body was quite rough underneath, not sure if that was caused by my efforts to strip it, or was the reason it had such a thick layer of paint, but was able to sand and buff it down to a reasonably smooth finish, but it did require a repaint. I stayed with the original red colour, although this is a little brighter. It was the later model with the swivel guide, which is why I chose this out of the 3 odd pairs of tops and bottoms I had. I have already started to convert a nice green one to a swivel guide as well, as this runs much better (although slower) than the lotus with its pin guide. Might have to test a few of the other old RX motors I've got to see if I can find one with a little more oomph. Prior to that, I decided to clean up the timber track a bit, filling holes and cracks, sanding and repainting. Tried to give it a used 60's feel by splashing darker swathes of grey over the lighter grey, and then topped it off with a flat clear coat for protection and grip. I then decided to revamp my rather pathetic pit lane, by cleaning up the pit boxes, and gathering all my figures together into teams, making extra resin copies where I was short, then painting them up in team colours. Then found some old bodies, put broken motors and axles on them so I can leave them all there as props. Enjoy!
  13. Hi, I've had various layouts using classic scalextric track over the years, in sheds and garages, and the only time I had issue with expansion and contraction was when I surrounded the track with MDF to try and get the feel and look of a routed track, and remove the need for barriers. It worked well in winter but as soon as summer came around, the track expanded but the MDF didn't. I end up resolving it quite simply, by unscrewing the MDF so it was free floating and I could spread it out or close it up as needs be. Fortunately, I had used offcuts and it was cut and fitted in multiple sections, so the free floating trick worked a treat. So, as long as you haven't nailed your track to the board, you shouldn't have any expansion issue. I now have a routed track a fellow collector donated to me, which is already 15 years old, and will probably last forever, as the "braid" is actually 1/4" stainless steel cable. So no rust or wear and tear, ever. However, it does have expansion issues on super hot days, and every now and then a section might be forced up, but its a simple matter to glue it back in position once it cools down again.
  14. Hi All, I just emailed the museum, who then pointed me to their Facebook page, which happens to feature that car on a post from yesterday. The car is a 2015 SUPERLITE SL-C COUPE https://www.facebook.com/namtnews/?ref=br_rs I heartily recommend you visit the Facebook site, as well as the museum itself, as their photos are far more drool worthy than mine.
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