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About slotmeister

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    Kart Driver

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  • How did you find us?
    Roland at Slotshop, originally

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    Sydney, NSW
  1. Hi chaps, As a part of my day-job, I write an interview every month for the back page of Wheels magazine. David Hassall, whom I've known for decades, told me recently about the Peter Brock Trophy (or Cup), and the great back-story (which I've seen related on Auslot's 1:24 forum). Anyway, I'd like to interview the current holder of the "Peter Brock Trophy" ... not the Bathurst one, but the 1:24 one. If someone here knows who it is, I'd be grateful for a PM. All I can promise is a 20-minute phone chat with me (ugh), a one-page story with a mug shot in Wheels, and immortality.
  2. On ya, Chilla! I hope Chris Craft is still putting the pedal down in your little blue McLaren M8C! And Rick, yeah, I did under-sell the solid-axle conversion a bit ... I have one with a Cartrix 27K motor in it, fantastic thing to run. Will put it in my overnight bag, next trip to Adelaide! Stahly
  3. Hi, all. Have just posted a story on tuning Vanquish cars on my website, www.slotmeister.com, on the Tech Tips page. I love these babies - how could you not love a slot-car with a diff? - and have more than 30 of them. I've gone to some lengths to ensure they run properly, and as some of you know, they're a blast to drive. I'm planning to be a bit more diligent with my Tech Tips page, so do check in! Cheers, Slotmeister www.slotmeister.com
  4. I remember quite clearly having a goal when I got back into the hobby, about four years ago: I thought I'd just like to have one example of each of the different configurations. So, started off with in-line, sidewinder, anglewinder, 4WD pinion-drive, 4WD belt-drive, front steering, MG-Vanquish differential, etc. Seemed an honourable goal at the time. More recently, a friend's eight-year-old son asked how I ended up with more than 300 cars. My reply made sense to me: you can't have just one example of a car, or there'd be nothing to race your mates against. So you need at least two. Or, if you have a four-lane track, you might as well get four. And if they only make seven different liveries, well ... As for what I've accumulated most, about half my cars are Porsches, and more than half of those are Fly classics. Easily explained: late-1960s/early-1970s Le Mans and Can-Am were the absolute hero cars of my childhood. And now I get to own, tune and "drive" them.
  5. One other thing that may be of interest to those restoring Cox chassis: according to Ed at EJ's Hobbies, "We used to take the Cox magnesium chassis's and to make them look really good, would simply soak them for a brief few minutes in what us Yanks call lemonjuice concentrate. It sells in the USA in a container that looks like a lemon. It also works great on Cox rims - but don't do them too long or they will simply dissolve away. After this careful cleaning wash them off and apply a little light oil, since magnesium will soak up the oil and never again have oxidation (white) show up on them." Cool, huh?
  6. Thanks, to John in particular - wealth of great pics on that link, there's my answer! Have also had some great advice from Ed at EJ's Hobbies in the US (www.ejshobbies.com - hope I'm allowed to do that here?) who's been there since the originals, and still has heaps of NOS Cox and Strombecker parts. Tells me that no other Cox arm will do the job, so I will direct my Dremel to the mounting plinth. One more Cox chassis is spared ... Cheers, Michael
  7. Thanks for the support, chaps - I knew I'd gone to the right place. I must remember to try asking you guys to talk me out of my next impulsive slot purchase ... I promise I won't Dremel the guide arm; I'd half-figured a modified plinth would be the better option. But I do recall seeing (on EJ's Hobbies, I think) some genuine Cox spares, so I may indeed see if there's another guide arm that's a bit longer but has the same width at the pivot. I'll then have to figure out how to 'treat' it the same as the chassis I bought; along with the wheels, it's been plastic bead-blasted, I think, and then given a fine clear-coat, so it has a really nice, semi-gloss silver-grey finish. I bought it on ebay about three weeks ago. Thanks again! Michael
  8. Hi, guys, I haven't visited your corner of the forum before. Until recently, my 1/24 exposure has been limited to a couple of Carrera Exclusivs - plus, somewhere in my mum's garage, the Group 20 Miura and Rehco swivel-pan chassis that I had in the mid-1970s. Reason I write now is simply to ask: can someone tell me where to solder my red and blue wires on a Cox Cheetah motor? That is, which colour wire goes to the upper contact and which to the lower - and then, to which sides of the guide (I think 1/24s are the opposite of 1/32)? I'd basically just love to see a photo of an original Cox Cheetah chassis to see how the wires were routed along the chassis (i.e. plaited through guide-arm holes, taped to chassis, stuck down with bear spit, or what). All this is because a US journalist colleague - ironically, Dan Edmunds, whose father Don designed the real Cheetah - gave me a 1/24 vac-formed body from the 1960s. (It's not a Cheetah; sorta looks more like a Cobra coupe, but isn't. And I don't have the facility to post my pics). The body is unpainted and has a lovely, light yellowish patina, and my idea is to leave it transparent and mount it on the lovely, magnesium Cox Cheetah chassis I bought a few weeks ago. Y'know, just as a display piece. The chassis came without motor wires, so I want to do them as authentically as possible. Unfortunately, the wheelbase of my clear body is a tad longer than a Cheetah's, so the guide screw now sits directly under the front axle, pushing the guide arm down. As I don't intend to race or even run the car, my first thought was to grind off the upper part of the guide mount ... I need one of you to berate me for even thinking of doing that ...
  9. Wouldn't mind a bit of feedback on the MB jobby after you have used it Slotmeister I am considering getting one. Will do. For the time being, I can't help seeing Lilliputians elevatoring up and down on it.
  10. I've been using a Ninco press fo ages, I wish mine was "self-centring." I have a spare length of steel wire that's a slightly smaller diameter than the pinion shaft. I push that through from the opposite end of the Ninco press (i.e. the end opposite the screw-press handle thingy) to locate the pinion gear and thus guide the pinion shaft into the hole. Have just bought myself an MB Slot press, haven't yet stopped admiring it to actually figure out how to use it.
  11. I haven't closely followed this thread, but I wonder if anyone else is using the "Slot Cars 2000" inventory program (http://www.gregorybraun.com/SlotCars.html)? For me, some of the fun in getting a new slot car is listing it in the inventory; I diligently list the event, driver/s and race result of the real car it represents. Can also generate summaries and web pages. I could probably also easily calculate how much I've spent in three years, but like most of you blokes, I'd rather not know. Rough round-up is: Fly 95 Scalextric 45 Carrera 30 Slot.it 25 Ninco 25 Vanquish 20 ProSlot (all Slot.it-kitted) 15 SCX 15 ... and small handfuls of Spirit, Pink-Kar, HSRR, Revell-Mono, BRM Models (1/24), AutoArt, Team Slot etc.
  12. There's certainly a large toy/hobby store (may even be a Toyworld, can't remember) on the main street in Orange. I was there about six months ago, had various R/C stuff in the window, but inside had an HO track set up and a pretty decent selection of current Scalextric JGTCs, V8s etc. May even have had Ninco. I didn't see any 'barn finds' there, anyway. Still, I can identify with the need to buy souvenirs ... was recently in New Caledonia, found the one hobby shop (mainly R/C) in the whole island/s that sells slot cars. Had six Ninco cars in stock - mostly Renault Meganes and Clios - and that was it. Cars were CPF 11,000 each, which works out at, uhh, $172! Minus tax made it $142 ... tourist/slothead/idiot here just had to have something, though, and bought Clio #50377. I figured it was gonna be that, or some stupid bottle of duty-free perfume. Which I'm told doesn't work on tyres, anyway.
  13. slotmeister

    M2 Screws

    Highest recommendation for Steve at Slot Car Corner in US, has packs of 20 for US$4.95. See http://www.slotcarcorner.com/Store/Racing/racing_parts.asp
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