Jump to content

Garry J

Members
  • Content Count

    712
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Garry J

  1. Here are links to the instructions for chassis and body builds. http://slotworx.com.au/Body_Pics.zip http://slotworx.com.au/132_Pics.zip I do have some parts for these cars if any one is interested. Cheers, Garry
  2. I have one mostly complete, better dust it off.
  3. Garry J

    Bye Bye Holden

    Reading yesterday that they're working on the 2022 chassis to enable it to fit many different body shells, including coupes. Bigger question is 'will they still be here in 2022' If you have shares in Supercars, sell them now.
  4. Gas41T, that's perfect, anyone doing a braid job should hang this picture on the wall as a reference.
  5. One more thing, When running the braid down a hole or a join, use a pair of flat nosed pliers to bend the braid at a sharp angle. This gives the braid a permanent kink, you'll need to squeeze it back together at the bend because it will widen out a bit but you need to make that sharp kink that won't try to undo itself over time. Also use a flat file to very slightly round the end of the braid recess at the join, generally one light pass with the file will do it. If anyone wants some pictures I can probably organise something.
  6. I've laid miles of braid in my time and here's what I've learned. Braid recess should be at least 1mm wider than the braid and a little deeper (0.1mm or more) than the braid thickness, the braid is then laid against the shoulder of the recess away from the slot. This stops the wheels on the cars catching the edges and stops the guide rolling up the inside edge. When laying the braid hold it above the track so that it loops as it goes down (a picture would help here). The loop forces the braid weave to open a little so it's not stretched, and it can expand and contract with temperature changes. This is critical in corners or you'll end up with Johnno's problem above. Glue? for almost all of the tracks I've built the braid was laid with contact glue, simply because it was prior to the high bond strength tapes being widely available. Contact glue has the advantage of not being fussy about the surface it goes on and is easy to repair. It's cost effective and you don't need to clean the braid, but it's messy. High bond strength tape works well, just follow Rick's instructions above regarding recess preparation as a smooth surface is important. Again, the most important thing is to loop the braid as it goes down to open the weave. Get a piece of your braid and curl it into a circle and see how it opens up, this is why you're having trouple with the corners Johnno, nothing to do with the glue or tape. Hope this helps.
  7. I like the one with brake lights and the flashing lights after 2 seconds of power loss. Really helps marshals for night races and you can see where your car is if the power goes off for any reason.
  8. https://slotpoint.de/Zmachine or just Google Zmachine.
  9. Or you could just go all out with a Eurosport chassis and wipe the floor with the competition.
  10. Oops, I'm not a Greg Murphy hater but I accidently read this, sorry.
  11. The current Mustang body from Chris is narrow and requires modification of the chassis to fit. So it's nowhere near legal for National events. It's also made from 0.5mm PETG so it's heavier than a 0.375mm Lexan body. Having said all that it's still up to venues to decide what they want to run in their local racing so I expect there'll be a few being used.
  12. Web site is coming Ray. There are PETG bodies available in Adelaide somewhere.
  13. Dazza, just message me. Cheers Garry
  14. Would probably be cheaper to get them from Ace Hobbies.
  15. No idea what model but here's what it looks like in Meshmixer
  16. Thought it might be best to share these Vlad. https://johnsonsystems.com.au/stl/
  17. For Sale - 2 x Slot.it SCP-1 Controllers, both with 20 amp high power modules. One with red knobs and one with blue knobs. Controllers are in excellent condition and have had very little use. Both are without track connectors $240.00 for both, including Express post within Australia or $140.00 for 1, including Express post within Australia
  18. Very strange, first there isn't a problem, now there are multiple problems, but they can be fixed. $600 for a controller that requires modification before it works reliably is not for me. I sold mine and I won't be tempted again.
  19. Telling people who have a problem that the problem doesn't exist sounds very much like our politicians. As I said, I replaced the whole brake contact with a setup of infinitely better quality and it still has the problem. And ANY change to the brake contact will be infinitely better than the cheap and nasty stock setup. If you go back in this thread you'll see Noel has the same issue. Inconsistent, unpredictable brake failure.
  20. Don't know about the CS1 and CS2 but I had a Carsteen CS3 and had persistent trouble with the brakes. I thought it may have been a contact problem as the original brake contact was cheap and nasty for such an expensive controller. So I made a new brass brake post and a new brass wiper arm contact. The changes helped but every now and then I'd hit the brakes and have nothing. After seeing so many people with the same issue my opinion is that it's a design fault and my advice is don't buy a Carsteen.
  21. I met my wife at a track she was managing in Brisbane. She used to race a little too. I came up from Sydney to build a new track at the raceway and never left.
  22. 50 drivers for a nights racing. How much track time does each driver get?
  23. Garry J

    Weight Ratio

    "the magic triangle", I thought you were about to go way, way off topic there Jimmy
×
×
  • Create New...