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Everything posted by Billy_Cart

  1. Great track Kholo, love how its progressing. Reading this thread took me right back to our own build starting back in 2006 when I bought the boys a digital SSD set for christmas, now we have a 6m x 2.5m table in the garage with a 40m layout (cross over as well) 85 cars and all the high tech digital mods. It's just great fun, well done and keep going. PS. if your looking for more magnet strength your can just add small metal washers to the top of the magnets this works well, but don't use ones that are too large as the extra magnetic down force drag could burn a motor out (and slow the down too much). I also use the small magnets in the "Magnetics" toys which can add just that little extra to tame a difficult car or quickly even a class of cars up without a lot of tuning etc.
  2. Great track, love big digital setups with long straights & tight technical sections, reminds me of the big 1:1 race we have downunder here in October each year.
  3. Billy_Cart


    I read recently that Magnet Marshalls are currently not being manufactured so you would need to pick one up on ebay or the like. I actually followed the thread Mobbzee posted above and built one years ago and it works fine (still use it and it only cost $15). I actually compared it to a Magnet Marshall once and the downforce readings were about 10 grams out but it doesn't really matter as long as you test all the cars on the same measuring device the results will be relative.
  4. Finely got around to switching and re-soldering the red and black wires on the motor and all is now good with car working fine in digital mode. (really fine actually these new model Fords are great out of the box) Also stopped in to my local hooby shop and checked out other Will Davison ford models and they are all wired the same way so I'm guessing there should be others out there with this same problem.
  5. Mark, Just tested the car with the DPR chip in with analogue mode on and it goes in reverse, same car with no chip in analogue mode and it goes forward. So just figured out that when it comes to slot cars FORD probably stands for "Foward Or Reverse Device"
  6. Bought the new scaley Will Davison Ford (DPR) car the other week and today put in a SSD DPR chip and the car took off in reverse. After a few tests like putting chip in another car and also running it in analogue mode my findings are the chip was fine and the car runs forward in analogue but put a chip in and in digital mode off it goes in reverse (not really surprised given it's a FORD ). Opened the car up and compared the wiring to the Richards Dunlop DPR ford which works fine (must have a Holden motor ) and the wiring to the motor has the red and black wires the opposite way round and the green wire runs to the left braid and yellow wire runs to the right braid which is the opposite to the Richards Ford. I guess the solution will be easy by just changing the wires around but I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue?
  7. Don't know exactly because I am an SSD racer however, I would assume it would be like SSD and any of the Carrera car chips would work its just a matter what what size chip will fit in the scaley car you are wanting to convert.
  8. Great videos Roger really enjoyed them plus I learnt heaps, now I'll just have to watch them again to remember all that stuff. I wonder if it all applies on a smaller scale for our 1:32 versions, except of course the rear wing in my case as they tend to all disappear eventually.
  9. Welcome Nick, I also attributed my return to this hobby to my 4 boys after buying a couple of Scaley sets for Christmas 6 years ago, now I can't park any 1:1 cars in the garage because of the track and 80 odd 1:32 cars. Beware where this hobby will take you if you have too much fun. I hope to get to Steve's track next time we are in Canberra as he was closed at Easter when we were last up there. Your lucky to have such a track in town I don't think there were any when we were living there.
  10. Great effort, I always hate fiddling around trying to bend & keep a small piece of wire in place, the safety pin idea looks a lot easier & more effective.
  11. The following thread on SF sets out the how to fix blown SSD chips & this mod actually increases the motor size a repaired chip can handle. I have attempted this mod a few times but stuffed it up on each occassion due to the mirco soldering required. My local electronics guy repaired one for me and it works really well and the parts cost around AUD $5 per chip and I have left a heap with him to repair in his own time but that was a long time ago so I guess he is busy. If you have to pay someone to do this mod it may be a bit pricey but given the power of the chip is improved I reckon it's worth it. Hope this helps. PS. I have smoked a few chips as well and once your over the cost of the loss you can laugh about how cool the smoke rising from under the bonnet looks. http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17259&st=0&p=184648entry184648
  12. I successfully use the yellow 20K RPM scaley motors with SSD chips however have found the orange 25K scaley motors either slow or blow the SSD chip. I use the SlotIt chip with the 25K motors and they work OK albeit probably too much power to try and keep under control.
  13. I have blown a few in my time as well, some common reasons are;- - Over lubrication of motor, this can dmage any motor but with digital it can lead to chip damage as well. - Using larger (hoter) motors, the Scaley SSD chip is designed for 18K RPM motors and the biggest motors I have had success is 20K, the Slot.It SSD chip can handle up to 25K RPM's. - Adding too much extra magnet can overload the motor. - Motor shorting (bad motor) can also blow a chip. - The SSD chip is also only rated to 16 volts so too high a voltage to the track can blow motors as well. I had one particular car that blew 3 chips and I eventually tested the motor and it was sparking inside really badly, I think this meant it had a short in it and the easier and cheaper solution was to replace the motor. There is a modification to repair the common blown chips types but you need to be good with a soldering iron as it is a real micro job. I have failed on 3 attepmts to repair a chip but I had one fixed but an electronics guy and it works great now and can handle hotter motors as well. Hope this helps, blowing chips is a real bummer!
  14. hi thanks for the encouragement i am runing scalextric digital,tracks about 35 metres in .thanks for the tip on inox Welcome Phil, I have a 40m Scalextric Digital setup on a table 5.5m x 2.5m and have been using INOX for over 3 years with great results, I also have all the SSD modifications which deliver all the uninterupted power and race management system linked to PC for fuel simulation pit lane speed limiting etc. If you have any questions fire away hope we can save you the time we lost
  15. Ian, Given the APB allows for easy switching between Digital & Analogue modes it makes sense to have both options in the chip so all cars can be used on the track chipped or not and as Aussieslotter said brakes in analogue mode for chipped cars ensures an even setup for racing. As for how to achieve all that I have no idea and as usual I will defer to greater minds for all the electrnic bits & pieces.
  16. Cabbage crates coming over the briney? Sorry old chap, don't understand your banter... Could it be some sort of translation software not doing it's job? I'm glad I'm not the only one who couldn't figure this out , Nice effort glen
  17. Sorry Off-Topic again but Chris when did you work at the Boundary in Bendigo maybe you've provide me with a quiet beer or 2 or...... (assuming that's the Boundary Hotel you're talking about in your profile location). Not unless you were floating down the Murray in 1978 I was pickin' oranges near a one horse village called Boundary Bend (2 men and a dog - which bit into my jeans - & a general store) in the back of beyond between Robinvale & Swan Hill - fond memories. Off Topic - Thanks Chris, bad assumption on my part thinking Bend was short for Bendigo, although years ago I drove from Mildura via Robinvale to Swan Hill and must admit can't remember Boundary Bend (but it was a while back), in 1978 I was in NSW (Snowy Mountains) so no floating down the Murray at that time. However did float down the Murrumbidgee a few times around that time, I should have kept going maybe then I could have passed you by Now I think I saw your current locale on this year's Tour de France (am I right?) On Topic - Nice work Ian I will have to get me some new glasses to attempt this mod
  18. Sorry Off-Topic again but Chris when did you work at the Boundary in Bendigo maybe you've provide me with a quiet beer or 2 or...... (assuming that's the Boundary Hotel you're talking about in your profile location).
  19. Great choice I still have a few 2003 bottles in the rack, if your ever over this way again we could crack one (if there are still any left) and enjoy some drink driving (1:32 scale of course, I will get some scale wine glasses to match or I reckon you could make them). Happy birthday Ember (I'm guessing there still happy when one is still so young).
  20. Thanks John much appreciated.
  21. Thanks John & thanks Eno you asked a few questions I would have asked next so I'll look forward to seeing your next lot of photo's John. PS. Didn't think I'd be talking to a QLD'er after last Wednesday night, must mean I'm nearly over it for another year
  22. John, Been thinking of attempting a routed SSD digital track like yours so have been looking at your track pics & videos, what do you think is the main advantages of wood over plastic and how hard was it to insert the SSD LC pieces into your wood layout (looks like you modified the LC's to get a longer lane change section). Thanks
  23. Not the most Bizarre idea I ever had, but when it comes to "effect" I've also said I only drink for effect......Water keeps me alive, Coffee keeps me awake and Beer keeps me sane! then there's slotcar racing.
  24. Different stuff and much more expensive, INOX MX3 is a lubricant in the WD40 type category but made from a different base and is especially good in marine environments. Not sure why it works so good with Scaley SSD but I have been using it for over 3 years now and it's great.
  25. INOX MX3 is a non-petroleum based lubricant (not like WD40) that you can get from most hardware stores (or Jaycar) and apply to rails & car braids (not plastic) by simply spraying a little on a clean cloth and running your finger over the rails and/or braids. Along with crimping track pieces & good power taps, INOX MX3 has been the best performance improving extra I have used with scaley SSD but when you use it, use it sparingly (less is more). The best thing about INOX MX3 is you don't have to constantly keep cleaning your SSD track all the time only every 3 to 4 months. By the way I have found the standard scaley poer leads to be no so reliable (very thin & break) so I made my only from speaker wire with slide on clips soldered to each end which I got pretty cheap from Jaycar.
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