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About drummer

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    Video Game Driver

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  1. AND CHECK those lead inserts where they push into the guide, I had a lot of problems with them working loose, ... the cause of my initial Slot.it chip concerns. I ended up having to solder them to the braids in a couple of instances.(!)
  2. drummer

    Digital Conversion

    ... and a FLY 908, dont forget the 908(!), we have 3 done so far... ! When you coming over? cheers Mike
  3. Pete! Thanks for the review. Nice rave. Yeah - was GREAT fun wasnt it? Guess what, Ive renovated the track, based on our discussions and racing the other night!! Now that we@the Beach Road are committed to digital, we dont have to have squeeze/hairpins facing at either end to make the lanes of similar challenge (doh!). SO Ive replaced the bottom corner hairpin with some decreasing radius curves starting with R4, still goes down to R1s but not squeezed, and comes out with R2 and R4s -- the line is GREAT!!!!!! And its fast!!!! I think there'll be a lot less marshalling down that end, will post a pic when I can.
  4. Hi guys, Got my in car camera from Rond@ slotshop, via Jamie I believe. 12 volts is good for the receiver, but could the camera take 12v also? If yes, great! If no, then whats the EZiest way to reduce (or limit) 12v to 9v? Not being an electrician Ive thought of a couple of approaches but would prefer some 'correct' advice. cheers
  5. I can see we're in for some fun, I have F1, Slot.It, Fly Classics, Scalex Minis & Scalex classic F1s slated for chpping. hope they arrive soooooooooon!
  6. Bananas are deleted. Power feels good*. Now have three power taps basically surrounding the heavily laden LC area. Bugger of a job really... but testing by myself*, one can certainly notice a difference, we'll just have to have another 3 guest drivers to test thoroughly. PS, found the 2005 scalex list, Pit stops pieces (and they're doing single lane straights and curves ! ), but they're slated for 4th quarter ( ! lets hope not.... ).
  7. Have noted that Mike is using the pair of outlets (3 amp) as opposed to the singular 30amp outlet. Gonna give this a try. I can probably just insert the cable ends directly?
  8. Hi Roland John A and John F here last night, resulted in more experimentation: and the installation of a power tap! 2 more should solve any problems I think... Did you see the video from the other night? (other thread)
  9. Good reading, Mike is onto it. I also planned to make my existing layout a digital one from the start ( we've known about SSD for a long time now! ), and as Mike states pulling multiple LCs and the power base out to run analog ( particularly when you have a detailed landscaped layout ) is simply too much trouble. YUP the only thing bugging me is the wait for the Conversion chips. Initially I was very concerned/shocked/disappointed that when running 2 Scalextric power packs we experienced any power sharing or surging problems at all, my layout is really quite small. Bring in the big guns - now we are also running the DSE 30 amp power supply and we not only have a fairly stable system, we can turn the voltage up to about 13.5 volts which really makes the cars perform at a level we are used to and this makes for good racing for 3 (converted) cars. When we add a fourth however, we still noticed a lack of grunt when someone is making a lane change. This may not be as noticeable (if at all) with the supplied Porsche Boxsters, (they of course lack an interior & headlights which my converted cars are all running ) Extensive testing, tells us that the LCs demand the most current of the system and any overloads experienced (that are not braid related) are certainly current related. The temptation of course is to add more voltage (I mean there no point ading more amps if they're not being utilised)... but when we approach 14 volts (which is where the cars performance seems equivalent to their analog performance), then we start having constant Overloads! Our conclusion is that too little or too much power can result in Overloads and we have yet to find a way to alleviate the power drop when LCs are activated whilst running more than 2 cars. Suggestions have been: •Send the power supply to a car battery and then to the track •Add an external power pack sending extra power to the LCs only •Add a capacitor to each LC Time will tell. There are good discussions and minds talking about this on various forums, its early days, and I think, on balance, a pretty good start. Having said that I feel my setup is 95% perfect for 3 cars, and Im pretty happy with that, but definitely looking for that extra 5%!!!!!!! Definitely addicted to digital racing -- if the point is to recreate motorsport in miniature, then -- this is it! As far as 1 versus 2 power packs goes, I have always experienced 'power sharing and surging' when running any slot car set on only one tranformer. So my first step has always been to add a power pack per lane (ananlog of course). Digital is no different, and as we are going to attempt running multiple cars it just stands to reason. MIKE, do you experience the power drops via LCs as I describe when running 4 (supplied ) cars? cheers all
  10. hi Mike, thanks for that, you're welcome anytime. The process really only involved minor soldering and minor dremeling/cutting. The Porsches just needed the passenger seat to be cut out of the interior, and the chip was happy to sit length ways inside that space. With some cars you'll have to increase length of wires to the pickup and perhaps the IR chip. The supplied cars have very short leads (no interior to consider). I successfully converted a FLY Porsche 908 and it is bloody fabulous (especially on 13v !) - ez conversion - minor cuts to interior. Last night I stripped the chip from a Porsche and put that into a Vectra. With all but the Vectra I have used the front magnet hole for the IR chip, I wrapped a PVC collar around it and glued the IR on top. There are pics of my conversions and detailed description on slotforum.com. Hanging out to do a SlotIt Porsche 956, they scream on 12volts and may just perform better with the power limitations we are experiencing. cheers
  11. HI all, here's some footage of SSD running 3/4 cars (converted Scalex Porsche 911s). Digital SSD & Challenger Videos enjoy
  12. The guide can be made to stay put by enlarging the gaps of the cross in the top of the guide itself, (if that makes sense). Stick the tip of a flathead screwdriver into each of the 2 gaps and GENTLY pry apart a little, it doesnt need much to keep it in place. It is important however for the guide to be able to dislodge in extreme circumstances or damage could result to the locating pin (above and in front of the guide). Methinks i need pics. I'll include photos in my forthcoming saga, hopefully it wont be too long b4 i find the time. Interestingly in my Version 1 Challenger I replaced the guide with a Fly guide and braid setup! (more on that story later)
  13. Offer now closed to Roland. (Slot Shop)
  14. Thanks Bump; Well yeah... I can, but not every time! Find a good, fast Scalextric Mini will do it, the short length makes it a little easier to get thru between crossovers. But you've really got to commit and take a deep breath or you're buggered. The previous Challenger was another half a second a lap faster!!! But had to add multiple magnets to keep it on and nope(!) you couldnt pass it! ( ran 0.25 sec faster than my best Fly lap!).
  15. I will be presenting a punch by punch saga about my experiences with my 2 Challenger cars. My track is a tight and fast layout based around 2 hairpins and by default Challenger wasnt able to go deep into the corners, braking far too early for my liking. It took a lot of experimentation (too much it turns out!) resulting in the purchase of a second car. For the moment here is a little teaser... Quicktime video (976k). Here it is View the Challenger Video And a direct link for download... Video file
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