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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2021 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 7 points
    While building a Pioneer Legends 34 Ford white kit I wondered what else i have on the 3D printer could fit the chassis So behold the XE Legend Had the Falcon file so it was only a matter of shrinking it down to fit the chassis, fit some outrageous wide guards and there you have it Bit more fun for the track and i'm sure no one else is going to turn up with the same body and scheme on race night
  3. 7 points
    Hey Oldskool, Apologies it's taken so long, I had a few projects in front of it. Finally, we can see the light at the end, a couple more hours and it should be ready for you. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers NimROD
  4. 6 points
    The release of the Slot.It Winfield Nissan really reignited my interest in slots. It had been about 4 years since I'd bought a car, and other than very occasionally dragging out some plastic track, I haven't really had much of a drive for about 10 years. Since we moved to the coast I haven't found anyone else down here who races and I quickly ran out of talent at my first go at building a routed track. I was occasionally taking a couple of cars up to Fyshwick, but once they moved to the other side of Canberra I became a bit of a slot car collector. Anyway, Godzilla was enough of an incentive and Hulme Park Raceway, named obviously after the late, great Denny. I've indulgently named parts of the track based on some of my favourite drives past and emerging. It measures 5.09m on a 180cm x 50cm footprint. Painted with Dulux Suede with a very light sand with 200grit paper just to take the top off the texture. My Formula NSR #27 Ferrari did a 3.5 pretty much out of the box, and two Pioneer Mustangs, one set up for magnetless running on wood, the other set up with a magnet both did 3.6s. I'm hoping to use Race Coordinator on my laptop with a webcam for timing, although having some issues setting it up. PC Lap Counter is triggering, just need to dial the sensitivity in on the hotspot and be a little less reliant on the lap timer on the phone and actually sort it out. And to pretty it up, with some lines and fences and the rest. Anyway, long story short, glad I finally got around to doing something, even if it's small, it'll keep me occupied.
  5. 6 points
    Hi All, I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects. Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL. @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable. May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on. I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. One list though. @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad. After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet. It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support Cheers Vlad
  6. 5 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  7. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  8. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  9. 4 points
    At racing this week I mentioned that I had made a dual motor 4WD Metro a while back. I had a few questions about it so here she is: I scratched up a chassis using some old sidewinder chassis's that I had lying around. It goes great. Handles really well and, with all the weight spread evenly front and rear, it sure doesn't need any extra ballast!
  10. 4 points
    The modular Bathurst track over 5 tables is on the drawing board. It will come as a MrTrax Hybrid Plus digital system. Meaning it will run (6) Carrera digital cars plus ghost cars. Or 2 analogue cars and thus the Lane Changers and Pit lane will be non-active. We superimposed the topography of Mount Panorama into the landscape to give it some realism. For those purists, you'll just have to suck it up, because it's not possible to replicate every corner detail perfectly! And from a modular point of view, this is how the layout needs to be. I haven't included the Lane changers on this drawing. But I do have a version with the Lane changers in place. The topography took a lot of time to source and re-jig into my modular version. The landscape should look pretty good if we can scale match the contour lines. The 4 tables making up "Conrod", are 120cm x 180cm. Whilst the larger 5th table is 120cm x 240cm. We're hoping to get between 30cm and 40cm in height.
  11. 4 points
    Found a few different types of cheep digital clocks on line $2 - $4 each Went on tinkercad and designed a few panels, then printed them out and painted them and of course i had to add it to the Race Control Centre and put the communications array on top as well
  12. 4 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added a "slide in" background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  13. 4 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  14. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  15. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  16. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  17. 4 points
    Since this is an actual new model and not a repaint of an existing I thought it worth putting together a few pictures and initial impressions of the Tom Walkinshaw TWR John Goss Jaguar that raced and won in the 1985 James Hardie 1000. 1985 was the first year of the International Group A class in Australia and this opened up the Great Race to the Europeans who had the march on the Australian's. Tom Walkinshaw brought across his army of 3 V12 Jaguar XJS race cars and the rest is history. The Jag's had a 5.3 litre V12 and were well ahead of their opposition in this year. Although they were heavy at 1400 kg's they had approximately 500hp and were able to run with the widest tyres and hence a great package early in the classes history. So what of the Scalextric version? It is a great representation of the car and surprisingly narrow and long. The cars advantage is the low roofline which allowed a lower centre of gravity. As far as a slot car this seems to work quite well also. The specifications of the car as follows. Weight 77 grams Length 151 mm Width 54 mm Rear Track 51 mm Height 39 mm The car has all the usual Scalextric features like head and tail lights. Detail is good with excellent tampo printing, body detail with dry break fuel fillers moulded in, radiator grille, wheel detail and bumpers that simulate the brushed stainless look. The interior is limited due to the in line setup used but the driver, roll cage and dashboard detail almost make it perfect. I am one who is more than happy with Scalextrics move to in line motor setups over their typical sidewinder even if it gives up some space for a full interior. The only flaw with the Jaguar I can see is the front tyre gap to the wheel arch which measures at 2 mm. On a 1/32 scale car it is pretty obvious and while I don't want to have a complaint I have to call it out. It makes no difference to how the car runs but takes back a little from what is overall a beautiful representation. The car runs well in magnet form with perfectly round wheels and true axles. I am not a magnet guy so it ran like this on my Policar, Fleischmann plastic track for about 10 laps until I took out the magnet and gave it a run. With no weight added and a light spin on some wet and dry the tyres hooked up OK, not great but it was a bit of run controlling slides. Later I added some weight and took it to 89 grams which makes it the same as my Scalextric Sierra's and M3 BMW's. It did help and the car was surprisingly quick with standard tyres but still over half a second down on my Scalextric cars with Slot.it or NSR tyres. I then added some Slot.it N22 tyres and it was running the same times as my Ford Sierra's and faster than the M3's. Thanks again Scalextric I love the car and keep them coming. After all this I couldn't leave the front end alone and had to fix the front wheel gap by adding a brass axle tube and some thinner braid to drop the front end. Sorry to the purists but my cars are drivers and I had to do it. See the last two pictures if you want to know what I did.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    I see Metro Hobbies has on their site the Mean Machine and the Compact Pussycat as coming soon Looks like MPC may be re releasing them all. No mention of the other kits but i would assume that if they are available they will stock them All in 1/32nd scale I can see a lot of scratch building going on, plus good track decorations as well.
  20. 4 points
    I planned on posting this up a couple of weeks ago but didn't quite get there. Scalextric have sent us another 2 new Aussie race cars which are always appreciated. Both cars have very attractive liveries and the Falcon in particular a nice change from the Red works Ford Falcons of Allan Moffat. Moffat was my favourite at the time but it is nice to see this car in particular. The paint is stunning and looks fantastic on the track. The French car is the second place getter from Bathurst 1972 and the year Brock beat the big guns in the little XU1 Torana where the wet conditions played into Holden's lap. It was also Brock's first win and the first year the cars were allowed some modifications which was to stop the manufacturers building 160 mph road versions of their cars. The Brock car is another nice looking livery and his second win. Some very nice detail on the car including the Hotwire wheels which look very nice with some sharp detail down to the wheel nuts. My only issue with the Torana is the axles are a little narrow meaning the wheels sit a little too far inboard. I did run both cars with magnets seeing I have plastic track but quickly pulled them out and ran them minus magnet and with the standard tyres. With a little bit of a sanding the Falcon ran very well and prompted me to set up all my other XW and XY Falcon's with a little weight and standard tyres. They drive well and quite realistically although I have noticed half of my Falcons have loose rear bush mounts in the chassis so will fix them at some stage. The Torana tyres really can't cope with the slimline motors power and it is all over the track. So I will eventually sort the Torana too as I find them a challenge but rewarding when the are done properly. Thanks again Scalextric we love the cars and will keep buying them of you keep making them. Maybe a few more liveries during the year please as we just don't seem to get enough of them. And maybe some other Australian cars also I am sure they will sell.
  21. 4 points
    Yello flag Pit road closed (pit entry lanebrane locked) cars on pit road can finish fueling and Tires. Lane brane forces all traffic to a lane outside of pit exit. so safety car may enter track without being hit Safety car enters track from pit exit position of all cars frozen no cars should pass safety car. All cars must maintain position (drivers will have to allow room to change lanes being courteous and maintain position) no laps are counted until are cars are in proper position when all cars are in proper position Pit road opens X= number of laps Safety car returns to pits x= number of laps green flag at start finish line no speeding before green flag this is just how I would do it if I could automate this... im positive its not perfect, but this is the most basic Yellow flag I have experienced over the years. i know there are people who would love Prototypical rules for all of the major Race Divisions, but this seems to work with oval and road course type racing
  22. 4 points
    Bought a Pioneer Legends white kit and did a different paint job on it, hate turning up and having 20 of the same car on the track. Got to thinking while i was building it if anything else would fit the chassis Luckily the slicer program lets you adjust the dimensions of a object to anything you want to print So here's a rough draft of a XD Falcon Legends
  23. 4 points
    Arvo Warren, I will put the cart before the horse, you have the classes and regs. The main idea behind our racing classes and regs is to keep costs as low as possible for everyone, if you don't have a car that meets the regs, that's ok, don't panic, bring what you want to run, there is a very high probability that you can borrow a class car from myself or some one else, we usually bring two of each car class, main runners and the backup cars, soon as we hear you don't have a class car, someone will offer you their backup car. We like to keep it very informal, relaxed and fun, yes we take the mickey out of each other all in good humour of course, there are times when someone (me with myself) will have the shits due to their cars breaking down, crap grip, or simply just having a bloody bad day Bring along your scratch builds, even if they aren't class cars you can still run them and have fun and learn the different tracks hopefully. You know you have an open door to my track for tuning and testing, all we need now is to get these restrictions lifted so we can get back to group racing. Johnno
  24. 4 points
    I finally got some time to finish this project off. I scratched up a new spoiler and threw on some paint / decals. It's been a fun build and the car runs really nicely. Thanks for looking.
  25. 4 points
    I dropped the front on my one, more fitting to the way i do things, rip, tear, bust. Removed the front bumper from the chassis and glued it to the body in the same position Ground away the inside supports of the bumper so it followed the silver all the way around Ground the side supports on the body as well as the motor supports on the chassis also the front body mounts. Ground away the bumper supports on the chassis and ground back the top of the spoiler so they were flush. Cut away the support for the lights and ground the bottom of the light board down about a mill Fitted it all back and much more goodera. Before ........ After ....... Still not happy they couldn't get the stripe right, but glad they built it, now for the 3 pack no's 8, 9 & 10, just in time for Xmas
  26. 4 points
    And another with the car finished.
  27. 4 points
    Over the years I’ve been steadily collecting Le Mans winners from 1949 to 1999. Unfortunately there a few Ferrari-sized holes in it that I have not filled. I managed to pick up some old Nincos which will help, but they need a bit of work. These older Ninco are a bit toy-like – the plastic is too thick in some places, the shape not always correct and the paint is translucent. This two-tone paint is a bit of an oddball choice by Ninco. I started work on the 166MM first – the Testa Rossa will take some patience. The 166MM won in 1949 driven by Luigi Chinetti and Lord Selsdon – and really cemented Chinetti’s relationship as Ferrari’s North American distributor and owner of the North American Racing Team. After stripping the car down, I detailed the cockpit in what I thought the correct colours might be. I saw this car in the Le Mans museum trimmed in blue suede upholstery which does not seem period-correct. The instruments were printed on a transparent sticker that I peeled off and replaced after the aluminium paint. The shiny chrome plastic wheels were replaced with Mitoos wire wheels from Armchair Racer. The body was sanded back and repainted in Ferrari red. The early Ferraris were said to be painted in a darker red, but I have not been able to find any period colour photos of the car, so I stuck with what I know. Decals were from Pattos. Here it is assembled. During the race it had a driving light in front of the grill, which was scavenged from an old diecast Cobra. I shaved the body posts and under the interior tray to drop it down and get rid of the wheel arch gaps. The rear details are not quite correct, but I didn't want to mess it up having got this far.
  28. 3 points
    Have now got the decals on now so can call this one done. These are Patto's peel and stick which a) are easy to apply & reposition & b) good for cars that get a lot of use. These ones were a bit tricky as they were the 'full side of car' ones which include the car's colour. I needed to trim them all close to the edges to remove the background colour.
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
    A first look at some of our cars coming later this year! New POLICAR models, expected in Q2 2022: Lotus 72E - #1 - 1st Monaco GP 1974 driver: Ronnie Peterson code: CAR02g BRM P160 - #14 - 1st Spielberg GP 1971 driver: Jo Siffert code: CAR08a NEW MOULD prototype picture enclosed The BRM P160 was designed by Tony Southgate for British Racing Motors. Unlike many other British manufacturers, B.R.M. also built their own engines, in this case a 3 liters V12, which in the course of its career won four GPs overall. In this model, Policar reproduces the car that won the 1971 Austrian Grand Prix held on the Spielberg circuit in Styria, then known as the ÖsterreichRing. The exhausts of the V12 BRM are faithfully reproduced in 3D printing. Jo Siffert, a very fast and constant Suisse driver on both Formula and Sport cars, won this race, which was, unfortunately, his last victory. CAR08a http://catalog.slot.it/product/product-details/?id=4733 CAR02g http://catalog.slot.it/product/product-details/?id=4757
  31. 3 points
    Is that all you do to setup your car for a proxy? Now I know why it runs like it does.
  32. 3 points
    Some may know me from other forums...my strength is photography, and losing races...EXCEPTIONAL at losing races, I might add! These are my recently added MR Slotcar Jags!
  33. 3 points
    Direction: Yes, slot motors are directional, but not by design, just errors introduced by cheap manufacture. Most RTR cars run the motors clockwise. NSR are untypical that they run the king motors anti clockwise. Get a laser tachometer and test your motors, then install them in cars that are making the best use of any timing bias that exists in the motor. Orientation: Motors ARE often often designed to have an installation orientation, closed can side up or open can side up (see slot.it flatsix motor) Refer to DiSCA digital slot car for an example of rules designed to mimic the behaviour of the full size cars based on orientation. Refer to NSR's International GT3 rules . You will see that the orientation is specified by a red dot on the motor. The reasoning behind formalising the orientation, is that (on a track with steel rails or magnabraid) the motor orientation has an impact on magnetic downforce available from the flux leakage from the motor. Again, if your rules permit , figure out which side is sucking harder in the track and Install the motor to make the best of that. Alan
  34. 3 points
    My only complaint is the wheels are too small. The rest of the car is great and I am well and truely looking forward to smashing it into Forests Elbow in the rain and driving my Dick Johnson Sierra past it. https://youtu.be/W9IBSJPadf8
  35. 3 points
    I thought the first two releases of this car were a bit plain but I liked this one enough to buy it.
  36. 3 points
    A quick build using a busted up Tamiya Lotus 30 body. I was given this body from a mate who gives me cars to restore/rebuild. I did restore one a while back, seen earlier in this thread to resemble the Tamiya Lotus 30 box. The body was cracked, broken in a few places with the right hand side and front nose of the body snapped away. Seen here in the pic below with the new panels glued in place and shaped to suit. I had one of those cheap Avant Slot chassis from a while back that I cut in half, glued, strengthened and reassembled. Had some old Fly wheels that had been sitting in their packets for years so used these as well. After I stripped all the green paint back, gave it a prime, coat of red (didn't want to do the Lotus green again) and applied some decals I had laying around. Windscreen was leftover from when Phil K sent me some for the other Tamiya Lotus 30. Not period correct or anything but had seen a pic on the net of something similar. Fitted with the Avant Slot chassis and original 27000RPM motor that these chassis came with it runs really well whether on the plastic or timber tracks. Pretty happy with it as it was a $0 build, but fun to do, all made from stuff tucked away in boxes. cheers Matt
  37. 3 points
    BIG WEEK FOR TEAM SCORPIUS Wow its been a huge week for the team: Hardware: Boards being manufactured. Unloaded boards completed by 28/09/2021 ready for loading. Firmware: Bootloader being added for Wireless Colour Touchscreen Light Gantry. Software: Huge new feature for safety cars started. Appware: Work starts on converting Android to iOS. 3D design: Flipper assembly tweaked. 3D printing: 3D printing prototypes begin. Website: Being tweaked for UK distribution. The team is spread out across the globe. A truly international talented team, all top of their field. One very proud Aussie Rick
  38. 3 points
    Whats wrong with some people? The slotcar community is a pretty cool bunch of people who enjoy the hobby and enjoy sharing their experiences…..this is what I thought, but after some exchanges with a few so called slotcar enthusiasts I am not so sure anymore. Some members of some forums are vicious types….they operate in groups and when they see a victim they troll and bully that person continually. If you support someone they don’t then you too get trolled, bullied or harassed. This has been seen on the SF forum over some years and it sometimes occurs here. Don’t criticize anything they do to the slightest degree or you become the target. I am sorry to write this and put it up on a public forum and no doubt inconvenience the moderators but I have to get it out of my system. Apologies to the Mod team. For instance….I recently contradicted or questioned a person on SF and then received a threatening message from a member here. Why would that happen? Because they are both in the same group of aggrieved people. Lets take a sample from the latest PMs “Be grateful you haven’t been exposed….yet” and “You have been warned” and “no need to reply….you have been warned” and “If you continue it online on any forum I’m going to have to let everyone know what you did and how you did it along with all your BS threatening PM’s elsewhere” Now it is easy to fabricate words as I could have in the above statement but these are quotes from PMs recently received. I am sure moderators can read PMs if they need to. In the past I have been asked for my address and email so legal papers could be served on me because I somehow offended/criticized/questioned the guy. If by posting this statement I am asked to leave Auslot then so be it…..but I am just giving everyone a heads up about the wonderful world of slot cars and the sort of people who inhabit the forums. Regards to all John
  39. 3 points
    THANKYOU JOHN HUBERTS. Hi Guys, I’ve given credit to all the team here at Scorpius, but I must mention John in particular. I’ll never forget trying to source an engineer in 2006. I approached 17 engineers. All of them said they weren’t capable of the project with one saying it wasn’t even possible! One engineer said he couldn’t do it but he knew someone who could, John Huberts. I contacted John and he said the project is right up his alley and that he was flying from Brisbane to Melbourne the next day and he detour via Sydney if I could pick him up. He entered my games room and seen the track and was immediately interested. I gave him the brief in words, no specification. He flew onto Melbourne. A week later he contacted me and said he was on the way to Melbourne again and if I could pick him him up at Sydney airport. We drove to my place where he immediately put the car on the track and starting doing laps.I was blown away. The first 2.4GHz slot car was born. The rest is history. What I like about John is his skill set and speed. He had no lab and humbly works out of his garage where he has a desk, storage facilities, scopes, soldering station, IR oven and his laptop. That’s it. A story. I received the professor motor handle and forwarded the handle to John. The spec was basic. 2.4GHZ, wirelessly upgradeable firmware, hall sensor, an LCD screen with menu, 3 buttons, 3 knobs and ran on 3V. John designed the board shape and hardware in 48 hours and ordered the boards. While we waited for rapid prototypes he wrote all the firmware in a week. On day 18 the boards arrived. On day 19 he uploaded the firmware, day 20 he tested it and in day 21 he sent via express mail. On day 22 I tested it. It was perfect in every way. Not a single glitch. I’m still gobsmacked a decade later. Proficient in hardware and firmware it saves having 2 seperate engineers. He also dabbles in software programs for diagnostics etc. I look around now and see University trained engineers who supposedly lecture and consult, have labs and make huge claims, with not a single completed project trying who wish to critique others work and commercialise their ideas yet lack basic 2nd year uni skills like soldering and hide under the banner of hobbyist to suit their agenda. How an electronic engineer (or are they?) can claim to be a electronic hobbyist is extremely fascinating. An engineer can sure have hobbies but to hide behind the hobbyist facade is concerning. So hobbyist it is. So again all this makes me realise how invaluable John is. Can the project survive without him? Probably but it will be multiple times harder this multiple times more expensive and take multiple times longer. Firmware is the key. Hardware engineers are a dime a dozen, firmware engineers as rare as hens teeth. So John thanks champion and thanks for the latest round of amazing work ie the light gantry, Nano decoder and Scalextric braid plate decoder design, all unique products and world first. Rick Pic: Second generation Scorpius controller and Scorpius chipped Slot.it car.
  40. 3 points
    I'm in the process of moving as well, but due to covid we can't get to where we want to to buy, but preparing to move still goes on, trouble is that i'm running out of room to store things, so a lot of my larger projects are scaled down or on hold, luckily the 3d printed projects don't take up that much room. Added a bit of colour and a bit of trimming, still very much a work in progress, but looking promising
  41. 3 points
    Typical of me is to start a new build at the end of a just completed Tasman Series,this build follows that rather strange pattern. Nothing too different for me as I had this chassis laying around and I had the body which I got from Phil about 18 months back I began the build as a lockdown thing, as we are in a lockdown and there is absolutely no way I was not going to do something "slot related" No track as yet for me to test on but that's okay I will get to that in good time Hopefully we will see a 2022 Tasman series and just maybe a chance for this to race
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    "well after years of having no track, my cars were boxed up and never saw daylight until yesterday. We have moved interstate (QLD) and stumbled across an ad with a track for sale. I contacted them ands they invited us out for a look. WELL, my introduction to scorpius, very impressed! They have a Bathurst digital track which is awesome, a massive rally track and a small analogue track. A lot of my tyres were red and stuffed, but some were still good. My NSR cars were great after years of no use, the spark has re ignited and I'm off to buy some stuff to set up a new work bench." That's what the man said
  44. 3 points
    An old Escort XR3i body has been looking at me for some time. These cars weren't exactly Scalextric's finest moment but I was confident a JS Design printed chassis could sort out some drivability issues, and I liked the idea of transforming one into a Group 5 type racer. Don't ask me why. I still don't know why I took this build on. If you like old Scalex cars, JS Chassis Design are a great discovery. Their chassis's are really well priced, do a great job and they have a stack of 3D printed chassis's available. They're only on Facebook and come recommended. More on them later. I started here. A body shell, a printed chassis and the skirt off an old Scalex Metro. I cut the Metro skirt up and sectioned the front Metro guard to better fit the XR3i. Some JB Kwik epoxy got me here. I cut up an old slot car display case and epoxied the new panels roughly in place to give the guards more width. About now, it was looking pretty bad (!) and I was wondering why this idea popped into my head. Here's a side view with the guard panels roughly cut to size. It's still looking dodge-ball (at best) at this point. And here's an aerial shot showing the guard 'end-plates' in place. I filled the gaps inside the end plates with JB Kwik, and when it dried, started the first cut of the trimming / sanding process. That first cut got me here. Not too bad, considering where I started. And I started to take out the redundant internal plastic / epoxy inside the guards to drop weight and give the wheels as much room as possible when it came time to fit the chassis. A shot of primer brought the whole thing together, and also showed all the faults I worked up the JS Design chassis with a generic 18K FC130 from the spares bin and, after adding in some runner boards, it was time for a track test... There is still so much to do to the body, but the car was smooth, stable and very easy to handle on the track - words not often used to describe a Scalextric XR3i. We are busy at work and my shed time is very limited at the moment - but I'll try and keep this build moving along over the next few days. Thanks for looking.
  45. 3 points
    Yippee, arrived today and I had time after work to get it ready for slots tonight and a good result that runs well. Gazza's lowering tips (thanks mate), a bit of ballast, Slot.it C1 rears and NSR braid in a somewhat de-wobbled guide and 82gm all up with 47 of those over the rear wheels.
  46. 3 points
    I have not had internet for quite some time and have just been able to catch up with the series and results. The last event I saw was round 2... so, was happy to see that my little effort completed the series without falling apart and disgracing itself. However, it is with great glee that indeed my little T-53 has been endowed with the John Smedley constructor's award for this year.... I feel a little ashamed that I have not been able to comment on the series rounds and thank those after each event for the wonderful dedication committed to running each event. Thank you to all entrants who produced some wonderful models that my little effort shared the track to relive the '60's. As with many of the entrants, it was almost an 11th hour decision to complete a build that was mothballed for some three years, and very little progress had been made other than the basic chassis plates. The body was hardly touched and parts had to be found from the large collection of many other projects. Everything else went on hold until I completed the model - and I was very releived when it all seemed to hold together after just a handful of laps around a rushed assembly of some of my Scalextric track... and mailed off to reach the entry deadline... I am indeed chuffed that it completed the series and am gobsmacked on receiving the John Smedley award..... Special mention to the drivers, marshalls and back-up staff who are unsung heroes - it was very pleasing to see some faces and names of those who contributed... thank you. Finally, a very special thank you to Alan - who, under the very troublesome constraints and restrictions of getting the series completed due to Covid and the associated unsurity of how to determine/plan the series - thank you. This year's John Smedly award will be treasured for many years to come and will take pride of place within display of my growing collection. I very much look forward to next year, and hope that we can all be free of this rancid disease which has put just so many of us under a threat that we have not seen before in our lifetimes.... I look forward to a final wrap of each car and what is suggested to improve performance.... I am still very much learning this "black art" in stratchbuilding and tuning.... maybe my effort next year will produce better times, but overall - I am delighted with coming away with such an honour of taking this year's John Smedley constructor's trophy... frats, Rosco
  47. 3 points
    Not really worthy of calling this one a repaint. Found a Bentley GT3 worth converting to a Bathurst 12 Hours entry. A few decals converts it to the 2015 car of Smith/Kane/Bell.
  48. 3 points
    All the wheel dimensions I've seen are total diameter including centre ridge.
  49. 3 points
    Welcome to Shelmore Park Round 2 Qualifying was completed by me on Blue lane. Drivers were briefed before the Race to ensure the race was clean with no shunts! Crowd are gathering waiting for the action. 1:1 Drivers for the day were the usual line up. Bruce Thomas. John Batich, Callan Thomas and Dave Bantoft. The Lane order has changed from 2019. Bruce 1,John is on 3, Callan 4, and Dave on two. Terry will be pleased to see that Dave has his usual shirt! But starting to influence the other drivers. The race had very few dramas.Two cars do have very deep guides that just bottomed out on the 7mm deep slot. Stubbos car suffered a body mount failure but lost almost no time as a peice of tape soon fixed the problem. One of Charles cars had a wheel slip on the axle on lane 4 with about 30 seconds to run and slowed. Bruce and Callan managed to get some great times out of my car. We did have a wild car entry for this round in Johns great car from previous year. John Batich,My Lotus and Pluggers Brabham. The podium as finished,Johns Wildcard entry does not effect the points as it is not an official entry. My driving impressions will follow soon. Round 3 Race report from Dave Grays Mornington Park Track will follow very soon.
  50. 3 points
    Scorpius MPD prototype Version 4.0 upgrade list. Hi guys, This project would be the most complexed and advanced project ever undertaken for the digital slot car industry. And yes we are up to Version 4 prototype. The MPD or Multi Protocol Decoder will be the basis for over 24 products. Car decoder for 5 brands, lane changer for 5 brands, location detector for 5 brands, anti collision board for 5 brands. Wireless dongle for 2 brands. Wireless throttle board for 1 brand. A mini wireless analog module for 1 brand. SOC: NRF52832 upgraded to NRF52840. We need an additional UART for an additional phototransistor circuit. SOC nRF 52832 only has one UART so we have upgraded to nRF 52840. Trade off is its 13 sqmm bigger and costs a bit more. DPR attachment holes: Removed. 3D printed clip in system DPR to be utilised. Pin system found to take too much space and fiddly. Track Rectifier: 4 off PMEG3050EP,115 Schottky Diodes 30V 5A Track Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression (18V max track voltage recommended) Motor Drive: Now CSD17318Q2 N-channel MOSFET 30V 20mOhm @ 3.3V 10A plus revised circuitry. Motor Brake: Now PMPB27EP,115 P-channel MOSFET 30V 30mOhm @ 6V 8.8A Motor Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression Track Current Sensing: Now 33mOhm Resistor and Amplifier (detects motor current) Motor Back-EMF Sensing: Resistive dividers to analog inputs. Revised circuitry. Solenoid Driver SCX: AO6604 20V 3.4A Additional phototransitor for LB detection: allows for 1 and board or 1 on flylead. Headlight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for high/low beam (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) Tail/Stoplight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for tail/stop (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) SSD ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) Carrera ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) 3D Accelerometer: Gyro upgraded to 9 axis Work continues on the version 4 board design which has some massive changes. The extra time taken to complete the project has given us valuable insight and allow these changes to occur, instead of rushing to market, especially in regards to multi brand compatibility and multi purposing. There is a extreme amount of complex firmware to be written. And this of course where the men are sorted from the sheep. Pretty soon all you will need is a Scorpius controller, Scorpius dongle and Scorpius MPDs to do just about any task possible in regard to digital slot car racing. Possibilities vary of course with regard to different brands. Picture: Decoder quick release DPR hatch for Scalextric and Pioneer slot cars. Design by Scorpius. Rick
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