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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    While building a Pioneer Legends 34 Ford white kit I wondered what else i have on the 3D printer could fit the chassis So behold the XE Legend Had the Falcon file so it was only a matter of shrinking it down to fit the chassis, fit some outrageous wide guards and there you have it Bit more fun for the track and i'm sure no one else is going to turn up with the same body and scheme on race night
  2. 6 points
    Hey Oldskool, Apologies it's taken so long, I had a few projects in front of it. Finally, we can see the light at the end, a couple more hours and it should be ready for you. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers NimROD
  3. 6 points
    Racing has been going pretty well here in Auckland. We have switched from SSD to oXigen and we have 7 regulars on Wed nights. We are racing GT3 cars with regulations similar to DiSCA GT3 Euro Series. The cars are magnless (of course). The main difference from DiSCA reg are the use of 17K Baby King/Baby Raport motors (the baby sprinter would be too much on this track) and instead of sponges we use NSR tyres. I wanted to give a go at videoing some of the sessions to show how we do digital slot racing up here. The first video below is the 5 min qualify session: we do qualify to set the grid for Race 1. The second video is Race 1: a 14 min endurance race. Our evening racing consists of four races of 14 min each. We use RCSO2 as a race management software which support fuel and tyre simulations: when we run out of fuel and/or tyres we go in the pitlane for a pit stop. I know that some of you might find the track calls annoying: this is the way we like it because instead of having spare people to marshal we are all actively racing which we think is the best way of using our time (who likes sitting there and marshal!). The videos show the racing this Wed evening when only 5 of us could make it. With 7 drivers we are almost at capacity on this track. This means that if we get more people to join us we might switch to team racing in which case, we can use the spare team mates as marshals. The videos were captured on a phone clamped on a vice on top of a shelf so the quality is not the best. Qualify Race 1 if you are in the Auckland area and would like to try your hand at this sort of racing, let me know. We have spare controllers and cars.
  4. 5 points
    Hi All, I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects. Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL. @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable. May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on. I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. One list though. @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad. After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet. It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support Cheers Vlad
  5. 5 points
    Having watched Group A racing I would have to say it is one of my favourite race classes. Being a Ford fan I have always had a soft spot for Dick Johnson when Moffat abandoned us in the Group C days. And being a Mustang fan I loved seeing a Mustang racing. Unfortunately Ford didn't take Group A seriously early on or saw more potential in the Turbo cars so the Mustang never go to realise the potential it had due to being under powered. Dick always said the Mustang was a brilliant car across the top of the mountain but really struggled going up the hill. Anyway I finally got myself into gear to get started on Munters resin body of the Group A Mustang. It is a really well done body with not a lot of clean up required, although I still spent a lot of time on it just making sure it looks as tidy as possible. I am trying to keep my Group A class as close in performance as possible and was thinking about the Slot.it Nissan GTR when I found a chassis with the correct wheelbase for the Mustang. The Slot.it Alfa 155 chassis was perfect with the 80mm wheelbase although I had to cut a bit off the sides, front and rear to make it fit. Here are a few photo's so far that show progress. Paint was an area I was struggling to find as I noticed others over the years were using a Tamiya colour which was just not bright enough. After heaps of research and asking local paint suppliers if they could mix me a can I found I could order a rattle can from Europe with the correct colour of Dulon 913 which is a Renault colour called Verte Laitue. This seemed a stupid idea seeing I would need to wait weeks for it to turn up if at all. More research told me it is basically Green and seemed to look like every green button and dot on the internet. So after much searching I found Bunnings sell a Dulux Paint which looked close enough. Happily after painting today it almost looks a perfect match and will be the colour I use for a DJR XE Falcon when I get a body for that too. I am using a Ninco NC2 motor after some of my others were set up with a NSR Baby King which has close enough specs. I have heaps of old Ninco motors and they are great motors when pushing cars that weight over 100 grams which most Resin cars do. Anyway see progress below.
  6. 5 points
    A couple more pictures of the Mustang progress. I said I made up some lenses for the tail lights from a screw box corners. Below is a picture and maybe a little close up so don't look so pretty here. On the car they look fine though. I just cut the corners off a box and then cut and sanded to size. I scribed some lines to get a straight line to paint the different lens colours and glued on with epoxy. The next picture shows some strips I made from sheet styrene for window trim as I thought it would look a little tidier this way. Cut to size, painted and glued on with flexible superglue. Below shows the window trims in place along with some of the decals so far. The window trims look much better than trying to paint a straight line so this will be something I will do from now on. So far so good.
  7. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  8. 5 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  9. 5 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  10. 4 points
    I see Metro Hobbies has on their site the Mean Machine and the Compact Pussycat as coming soon Looks like MPC may be re releasing them all. No mention of the other kits but i would assume that if they are available they will stock them All in 1/32nd scale I can see a lot of scratch building going on, plus good track decorations as well.
  11. 4 points
    I planned on posting this up a couple of weeks ago but didn't quite get there. Scalextric have sent us another 2 new Aussie race cars which are always appreciated. Both cars have very attractive liveries and the Falcon in particular a nice change from the Red works Ford Falcons of Allan Moffat. Moffat was my favourite at the time but it is nice to see this car in particular. The paint is stunning and looks fantastic on the track. The French car is the second place getter from Bathurst 1972 and the year Brock beat the big guns in the little XU1 Torana where the wet conditions played into Holden's lap. It was also Brock's first win and the first year the cars were allowed some modifications which was to stop the manufacturers building 160 mph road versions of their cars. The Brock car is another nice looking livery and his second win. Some very nice detail on the car including the Hotwire wheels which look very nice with some sharp detail down to the wheel nuts. My only issue with the Torana is the axles are a little narrow meaning the wheels sit a little too far inboard. I did run both cars with magnets seeing I have plastic track but quickly pulled them out and ran them minus magnet and with the standard tyres. With a little bit of a sanding the Falcon ran very well and prompted me to set up all my other XW and XY Falcon's with a little weight and standard tyres. They drive well and quite realistically although I have noticed half of my Falcons have loose rear bush mounts in the chassis so will fix them at some stage. The Torana tyres really can't cope with the slimline motors power and it is all over the track. So I will eventually sort the Torana too as I find them a challenge but rewarding when the are done properly. Thanks again Scalextric we love the cars and will keep buying them of you keep making them. Maybe a few more liveries during the year please as we just don't seem to get enough of them. And maybe some other Australian cars also I am sure they will sell.
  12. 4 points
    Yello flag Pit road closed (pit entry lanebrane locked) cars on pit road can finish fueling and Tires. Lane brane forces all traffic to a lane outside of pit exit. so safety car may enter track without being hit Safety car enters track from pit exit position of all cars frozen no cars should pass safety car. All cars must maintain position (drivers will have to allow room to change lanes being courteous and maintain position) no laps are counted until are cars are in proper position when all cars are in proper position Pit road opens X= number of laps Safety car returns to pits x= number of laps green flag at start finish line no speeding before green flag this is just how I would do it if I could automate this... im positive its not perfect, but this is the most basic Yellow flag I have experienced over the years. i know there are people who would love Prototypical rules for all of the major Race Divisions, but this seems to work with oval and road course type racing
  13. 4 points
    Bought a Pioneer Legends white kit and did a different paint job on it, hate turning up and having 20 of the same car on the track. Got to thinking while i was building it if anything else would fit the chassis Luckily the slicer program lets you adjust the dimensions of a object to anything you want to print So here's a rough draft of a XD Falcon Legends
  14. 4 points
    Arvo Warren, I will put the cart before the horse, you have the classes and regs. The main idea behind our racing classes and regs is to keep costs as low as possible for everyone, if you don't have a car that meets the regs, that's ok, don't panic, bring what you want to run, there is a very high probability that you can borrow a class car from myself or some one else, we usually bring two of each car class, main runners and the backup cars, soon as we hear you don't have a class car, someone will offer you their backup car. We like to keep it very informal, relaxed and fun, yes we take the mickey out of each other all in good humour of course, there are times when someone (me with myself) will have the shits due to their cars breaking down, crap grip, or simply just having a bloody bad day Bring along your scratch builds, even if they aren't class cars you can still run them and have fun and learn the different tracks hopefully. You know you have an open door to my track for tuning and testing, all we need now is to get these restrictions lifted so we can get back to group racing. Johnno
  15. 4 points
    Since this is an actual new model and not a repaint of an existing I thought it worth putting together a few pictures and initial impressions of the Tom Walkinshaw TWR John Goss Jaguar that raced and won in the 1985 James Hardie 1000. 1985 was the first year of the International Group A class in Australia and this opened up the Great Race to the Europeans who had the march on the Australian's. Tom Walkinshaw brought across his army of 3 V12 Jaguar XJS race cars and the rest is history. The Jag's had a 5.3 litre V12 and were well ahead of their opposition in this year. Although they were heavy at 1400 kg's they had approximately 500hp and were able to run with the widest tyres and hence a great package early in the classes history. So what of the Scalextric version? It is a great representation of the car and surprisingly narrow and long. The cars advantage is the low roofline which allowed a lower centre of gravity. As far as a slot car this seems to work quite well also. The specifications of the car as follows. Weight 77 grams Length 151 mm Width 54 mm Rear Track 51 mm Height 39 mm The car has all the usual Scalextric features like head and tail lights. Detail is good with excellent tampo printing, body detail with dry break fuel fillers moulded in, radiator grille, wheel detail and bumpers that simulate the brushed stainless look. The interior is limited due to the in line setup used but the driver, roll cage and dashboard detail almost make it perfect. I am one who is more than happy with Scalextrics move to in line motor setups over their typical sidewinder even if it gives up some space for a full interior. The only flaw with the Jaguar I can see is the front tyre gap to the wheel arch which measures at 2 mm. On a 1/32 scale car it is pretty obvious and while I don't want to have a complaint I have to call it out. It makes no difference to how the car runs but takes back a little from what is overall a beautiful representation. The car runs well in magnet form with perfectly round wheels and true axles. I am not a magnet guy so it ran like this on my Policar, Fleischmann plastic track for about 10 laps until I took out the magnet and gave it a run. With no weight added and a light spin on some wet and dry the tyres hooked up OK, not great but it was a bit of run controlling slides. Later I added some weight and took it to 89 grams which makes it the same as my Scalextric Sierra's and M3 BMW's. It did help and the car was surprisingly quick with standard tyres but still over half a second down on my Scalextric cars with Slot.it or NSR tyres. I then added some Slot.it N22 tyres and it was running the same times as my Ford Sierra's and faster than the M3's. Thanks again Scalextric I love the car and keep them coming. After all this I couldn't leave the front end alone and had to fix the front wheel gap by adding a brass axle tube and some thinner braid to drop the front end. Sorry to the purists but my cars are drivers and I had to do it. See the last two pictures if you want to know what I did.
  16. 4 points
    I dropped the front on my one, more fitting to the way i do things, rip, tear, bust. Removed the front bumper from the chassis and glued it to the body in the same position Ground away the inside supports of the bumper so it followed the silver all the way around Ground the side supports on the body as well as the motor supports on the chassis also the front body mounts. Ground away the bumper supports on the chassis and ground back the top of the spoiler so they were flush. Cut away the support for the lights and ground the bottom of the light board down about a mill Fitted it all back and much more goodera. Before ........ After ....... Still not happy they couldn't get the stripe right, but glad they built it, now for the 3 pack no's 8, 9 & 10, just in time for Xmas
  17. 4 points
    And another with the car finished.
  18. 4 points
    Over the years I’ve been steadily collecting Le Mans winners from 1949 to 1999. Unfortunately there a few Ferrari-sized holes in it that I have not filled. I managed to pick up some old Nincos which will help, but they need a bit of work. These older Ninco are a bit toy-like – the plastic is too thick in some places, the shape not always correct and the paint is translucent. This two-tone paint is a bit of an oddball choice by Ninco. I started work on the 166MM first – the Testa Rossa will take some patience. The 166MM won in 1949 driven by Luigi Chinetti and Lord Selsdon – and really cemented Chinetti’s relationship as Ferrari’s North American distributor and owner of the North American Racing Team. After stripping the car down, I detailed the cockpit in what I thought the correct colours might be. I saw this car in the Le Mans museum trimmed in blue suede upholstery which does not seem period-correct. The instruments were printed on a transparent sticker that I peeled off and replaced after the aluminium paint. The shiny chrome plastic wheels were replaced with Mitoos wire wheels from Armchair Racer. The body was sanded back and repainted in Ferrari red. The early Ferraris were said to be painted in a darker red, but I have not been able to find any period colour photos of the car, so I stuck with what I know. Decals were from Pattos. Here it is assembled. During the race it had a driving light in front of the grill, which was scavenged from an old diecast Cobra. I shaved the body posts and under the interior tray to drop it down and get rid of the wheel arch gaps. The rear details are not quite correct, but I didn't want to mess it up having got this far.
  19. 4 points
    The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://
  20. 4 points
    Here is a build I did a while ago to plug a gap in my collection of Le Mans winners. I was always a bit frustrated that Slot It did the 1983 and 1989 winners only in box sets. Getting a white kit and building this one was a no-brainer being a single colour. Not sure the Porsche would be as easy. Nicely packaged parts. The car comes like this – lack of instructions was a bit frustrating. Up to this point, things were going really well. Paint and decals went on nicely. There were a few flaws in the clear coat – I could do a better job now, but it came out OK.
  21. 4 points
    New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter
  22. 4 points
    Stay tuned.... In case anyone is unfamiliar with the relevance of the expression "A Pack Of &^#%&*)*&" I already sent this video to Maurizio with a detailed explanation of what is required...... Let the plinth wars begin....... Suggested Plinth lettering Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey I actually thought it would make a great 3rd line if it could be squeezed onto the plinth. Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey " You're A Pack Of &^#%&*)*& " yeah , that works....... And in case anyone actually doesn't know his record Racing career summary Jim Richards Races entered 990 Wins 207 Podiums 510 Pole positions 78 Fastest laps 155 Race win percentage 20.9% Podium percentage 51.5%
  23. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  24. 3 points
    My only complaint is the wheels are too small. The rest of the car is great and I am well and truely looking forward to smashing it into Forests Elbow in the rain and driving my Dick Johnson Sierra past it. https://youtu.be/W9IBSJPadf8
  25. 3 points
    A quick build using a busted up Tamiya Lotus 30 body. I was given this body from a mate who gives me cars to restore/rebuild. I did restore one a while back, seen earlier in this thread to resemble the Tamiya Lotus 30 box. The body was cracked, broken in a few places with the right hand side and front nose of the body snapped away. Seen here in the pic below with the new panels glued in place and shaped to suit. I had one of those cheap Avant Slot chassis from a while back that I cut in half, glued, strengthened and reassembled. Had some old Fly wheels that had been sitting in their packets for years so used these as well. After I stripped all the green paint back, gave it a prime, coat of red (didn't want to do the Lotus green again) and applied some decals I had laying around. Windscreen was leftover from when Phil K sent me some for the other Tamiya Lotus 30. Not period correct or anything but had seen a pic on the net of something similar. Fitted with the Avant Slot chassis and original 27000RPM motor that these chassis came with it runs really well whether on the plastic or timber tracks. Pretty happy with it as it was a $0 build, but fun to do, all made from stuff tucked away in boxes. cheers Matt
  26. 3 points
    BIG WEEK FOR TEAM SCORPIUS Wow its been a huge week for the team: Hardware: Boards being manufactured. Unloaded boards completed by 28/09/2021 ready for loading. Firmware: Bootloader being added for Wireless Colour Touchscreen Light Gantry. Software: Huge new feature for safety cars started. Appware: Work starts on converting Android to iOS. 3D design: Flipper assembly tweaked. 3D printing: 3D printing prototypes begin. Website: Being tweaked for UK distribution. The team is spread out across the globe. A truly international talented team, all top of their field. One very proud Aussie Rick
  27. 3 points
    iOS VERSUS ANDROID FOR SCORPIUS APPS Hi Guys, iOS versus Android, the age old debate. Which is better? Especially for digital slot cars? The answer is they both work perfectly. They are equally as easy to use for wireless upgrades to products using Bluetooth. Personally I use Apple products? Why? They were first to market and I was an early adapter. They led the way simply because they were more innovative and simply better than MicroSoft (Unfortunate name if you think about it ). Jokes aside Android out sells Apple 5 to 1 worldwide. But there is a reason for this. Only Apple uses iOS but 1,300 companies use Android. What’s the big difference for me is the user experience, for me I find iOS far more self intuitive than Android. Just an observation. As I said I use both. Ive had another full on wireless device app written for a non slot related product I built using first in iOS then Android. Both worked 100% immediately with no bug fixing required. The tech is reasonably easy with most 2nd year uni students bri f able to nail it. Currently Scorpius uses Android to load firmware updates into our Gen II decoder , our Nano decoder and soon our new Maximus decoder. Only yesterday I spoke to Team Scorpius app guru Faruk and commissioned him to duplicate our new app in iOS in preparation for the release of Maximus decoder in late November/early December 2021. I already know it will work as we are lifting the code straight off the other non slot related app I had built recently which works 100%. At Scorpius we won’t discriminate Apple or Android users or tell you to change devices due to poor firmware. That’s our promise. A hobby should be fun and not stressful. Modern technology is daunting for some of us and the addition of bugs can make the experience tiring and time consuming. The last thing you want to hear is when people spend more time attempting loading firmware than racing, and then give up after investing a substantial amount of money, often selling it back into market at a substantial financial loss. That’s bad for the hobby many are trying to build up. A hobby must be relaxing and fun, not stressful. So in a week or 3 we will see our iOS app for Scorpius along side our Android app. Both will work perfectly or your money cheerfully and immediately refunded. That’s our promise, like all our products. Interestingly enough no one had ever exercised that option, ever. You work hard for your coin, not headaches. Heres a re-run of our recently developed Scorpius app powered by Android. Enjoy guys. I’m loving’ it. https://youtu.be/g3cQ9jpB-7s
  28. 3 points
    THANKYOU JOHN HUBERTS. Hi Guys, I’ve given credit to all the team here at Scorpius, but I must mention John in particular. I’ll never forget trying to source an engineer in 2006. I approached 17 engineers. All of them said they weren’t capable of the project with one saying it wasn’t even possible! One engineer said he couldn’t do it but he knew someone who could, John Huberts. I contacted John and he said the project is right up his alley and that he was flying from Brisbane to Melbourne the next day and he detour via Sydney if I could pick him up. He entered my games room and seen the track and was immediately interested. I gave him the brief in words, no specification. He flew onto Melbourne. A week later he contacted me and said he was on the way to Melbourne again and if I could pick him him up at Sydney airport. We drove to my place where he immediately put the car on the track and starting doing laps.I was blown away. The first 2.4GHz slot car was born. The rest is history. What I like about John is his skill set and speed. He had no lab and humbly works out of his garage where he has a desk, storage facilities, scopes, soldering station, IR oven and his laptop. That’s it. A story. I received the professor motor handle and forwarded the handle to John. The spec was basic. 2.4GHZ, wirelessly upgradeable firmware, hall sensor, an LCD screen with menu, 3 buttons, 3 knobs and ran on 3V. John designed the board shape and hardware in 48 hours and ordered the boards. While we waited for rapid prototypes he wrote all the firmware in a week. On day 18 the boards arrived. On day 19 he uploaded the firmware, day 20 he tested it and in day 21 he sent via express mail. On day 22 I tested it. It was perfect in every way. Not a single glitch. I’m still gobsmacked a decade later. Proficient in hardware and firmware it saves having 2 seperate engineers. He also dabbles in software programs for diagnostics etc. I look around now and see University trained engineers who supposedly lecture and consult, have labs and make huge claims, with not a single completed project trying who wish to critique others work and commercialise their ideas yet lack basic 2nd year uni skills like soldering and hide under the banner of hobbyist to suit their agenda. How an electronic engineer (or are they?) can claim to be a electronic hobbyist is extremely fascinating. An engineer can sure have hobbies but to hide behind the hobbyist facade is concerning. So hobbyist it is. So again all this makes me realise how invaluable John is. Can the project survive without him? Probably but it will be multiple times harder this multiple times more expensive and take multiple times longer. Firmware is the key. Hardware engineers are a dime a dozen, firmware engineers as rare as hens teeth. So John thanks champion and thanks for the latest round of amazing work ie the light gantry, Nano decoder and Scalextric braid plate decoder design, all unique products and world first. Rick Pic: Second generation Scorpius controller and Scorpius chipped Slot.it car.
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
  31. 3 points
    "well after years of having no track, my cars were boxed up and never saw daylight until yesterday. We have moved interstate (QLD) and stumbled across an ad with a track for sale. I contacted them ands they invited us out for a look. WELL, my introduction to scorpius, very impressed! They have a Bathurst digital track which is awesome, a massive rally track and a small analogue track. A lot of my tyres were red and stuffed, but some were still good. My NSR cars were great after years of no use, the spark has re ignited and I'm off to buy some stuff to set up a new work bench." That's what the man said
  32. 3 points
    Pat dropped off a new body for me yesterday 3d printed Holden HQ Monaro Thanks Dave West for putting us onto the website
  33. 3 points
    Back in March 2020 I asked a question here on the Forum about what Chassis's, bodies I had in the photos for doing some future restorations etc. Thanks to Big Den, he and others help to identify this car as a Marusan Ferrari 156 Sharknose. The car was missing a few bits and pieces. Driver, shocks, front nose chrome parts, tyres, roll bar, exhausts etc. I stripped it back to the bare body shell and gave it a coat of grey primer. Test fitted it again to the chassis before painting. Here it is sitting on the chassis with some home-made tyres, with the black spacers that were fitted to the chassis originally. I made a mold up and copied the missing shock, found a driver figure in the spares box, gave him a paint. The front nose of the original car had 2 chrome insert that were non-existent, so I filled these and re-primed the car. I had looked at a few pics on the net to see what the real Ferrari 156 was like. Would look fine without the chrome inserts i thought. I bent up a new roll bar from brass to suit something like the original/real car, gave it a paint with the Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen. Made up the exhausts from some scrap in the spare parts box, gave them a coat of black. Inserts were made from some old wheels that were in the spares box, sanded down to fit and chromed. I painted the car with my usual Ferrrai red, $8 spray can from Bunnings, put a few decals on and refitted all the parts. I had a problem with the clearance from the chrome parts over the black plastic spacers on the front and rear axles, body just wouldn't sit right. I removed the black spacers and replaced them with some brass tube, cut to length. I touched up any missing chrome with the chrome pen to finish off the Ferrari. Also replaced the tyres I was going to originally use with some others I had made a few years back. Think they finish the car off a bit better. Thanks to those in the know for their help. Can't complete a build if you don't know what it is. cheers Matt
  34. 3 points
    Here's the great man holding his weekend's work. Initial track testing was very, very promising. The car was an absolute dream to drive and really quick - already faster than my best Thunderslot by 1/10th. An hour on the rolling road helped to bring the tyres on and break in the motor... ...and the times started to tumble. A few laps in and the car claimed my outright track record and I don't think I even pulled out one really quick lap. There is definitely another 2/10ths in it when the track is warm and the motor is properly run in. Amazing. Having that sort of result was the icing on the cake of great weekend. Shoutout to the Wellington crew who made the effort to come through to the Bay and a huge vote of thanks to Dave for sharing a lifetimes worth of tuning knowledge. I know he really enjoyed the weekend and we are definitely doing one of these masterclasses again.
  35. 3 points
    I have not had internet for quite some time and have just been able to catch up with the series and results. The last event I saw was round 2... so, was happy to see that my little effort completed the series without falling apart and disgracing itself. However, it is with great glee that indeed my little T-53 has been endowed with the John Smedley constructor's award for this year.... I feel a little ashamed that I have not been able to comment on the series rounds and thank those after each event for the wonderful dedication committed to running each event. Thank you to all entrants who produced some wonderful models that my little effort shared the track to relive the '60's. As with many of the entrants, it was almost an 11th hour decision to complete a build that was mothballed for some three years, and very little progress had been made other than the basic chassis plates. The body was hardly touched and parts had to be found from the large collection of many other projects. Everything else went on hold until I completed the model - and I was very releived when it all seemed to hold together after just a handful of laps around a rushed assembly of some of my Scalextric track... and mailed off to reach the entry deadline... I am indeed chuffed that it completed the series and am gobsmacked on receiving the John Smedley award..... Special mention to the drivers, marshalls and back-up staff who are unsung heroes - it was very pleasing to see some faces and names of those who contributed... thank you. Finally, a very special thank you to Alan - who, under the very troublesome constraints and restrictions of getting the series completed due to Covid and the associated unsurity of how to determine/plan the series - thank you. This year's John Smedly award will be treasured for many years to come and will take pride of place within display of my growing collection. I very much look forward to next year, and hope that we can all be free of this rancid disease which has put just so many of us under a threat that we have not seen before in our lifetimes.... I look forward to a final wrap of each car and what is suggested to improve performance.... I am still very much learning this "black art" in stratchbuilding and tuning.... maybe my effort next year will produce better times, but overall - I am delighted with coming away with such an honour of taking this year's John Smedley constructor's trophy... frats, Rosco
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    Track is now painted (2 coates of Berger Paving paint) and is now braided. I have used Tinned Copper as Magna Braid is unobtainable at present. I have run some test Laps and am very pleased with the layout and the grip levels.
  38. 3 points
    All the wheel dimensions I've seen are total diameter including centre ridge.
  39. 3 points
    Scorpius MPD prototype Version 4.0 upgrade list. Hi guys, This project would be the most complexed and advanced project ever undertaken for the digital slot car industry. And yes we are up to Version 4 prototype. The MPD or Multi Protocol Decoder will be the basis for over 24 products. Car decoder for 5 brands, lane changer for 5 brands, location detector for 5 brands, anti collision board for 5 brands. Wireless dongle for 2 brands. Wireless throttle board for 1 brand. A mini wireless analog module for 1 brand. SOC: NRF52832 upgraded to NRF52840. We need an additional UART for an additional phototransistor circuit. SOC nRF 52832 only has one UART so we have upgraded to nRF 52840. Trade off is its 13 sqmm bigger and costs a bit more. DPR attachment holes: Removed. 3D printed clip in system DPR to be utilised. Pin system found to take too much space and fiddly. Track Rectifier: 4 off PMEG3050EP,115 Schottky Diodes 30V 5A Track Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression (18V max track voltage recommended) Motor Drive: Now CSD17318Q2 N-channel MOSFET 30V 20mOhm @ 3.3V 10A plus revised circuitry. Motor Brake: Now PMPB27EP,115 P-channel MOSFET 30V 30mOhm @ 6V 8.8A Motor Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression Track Current Sensing: Now 33mOhm Resistor and Amplifier (detects motor current) Motor Back-EMF Sensing: Resistive dividers to analog inputs. Revised circuitry. Solenoid Driver SCX: AO6604 20V 3.4A Additional phototransitor for LB detection: allows for 1 and board or 1 on flylead. Headlight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for high/low beam (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) Tail/Stoplight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for tail/stop (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) SSD ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) Carrera ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) 3D Accelerometer: Gyro upgraded to 9 axis Work continues on the version 4 board design which has some massive changes. The extra time taken to complete the project has given us valuable insight and allow these changes to occur, instead of rushing to market, especially in regards to multi brand compatibility and multi purposing. There is a extreme amount of complex firmware to be written. And this of course where the men are sorted from the sheep. Pretty soon all you will need is a Scorpius controller, Scorpius dongle and Scorpius MPDs to do just about any task possible in regard to digital slot car racing. Possibilities vary of course with regard to different brands. Picture: Decoder quick release DPR hatch for Scalextric and Pioneer slot cars. Design by Scorpius. Rick
  40. 3 points
    I used Tamiya Park Green on my 1/24 Mustang, very happy with how it came out.
  41. 3 points
    Making Trax Twelve months ago I was writing of the unknown future we had ahead of us with Covid 19. Victoria was particularly hard hit, but there was a good news story in the slot world, and that was the Mr Slot Car slot shop businesses operating out of southeast Melbourne. AMC spoke to one of its owners, Peter Van Horssen to find out what has been happening. Australian Muscle Car: When and how did you first get into the retail side of the hobby? Peter Van Horssen: I had built a track and placed it onto an old trailer, which allowed me to roll it into the middle of the garage for us to play with. Soon after, my neighbour suggested I take it along to a fair at my daughter’s new primary school. Amazingly, I got requests for bookings on the day, and so the Mr Slot Car story started. AMC: Who makes up the Mr Slot Car business? PVH: There are three of us, with another fellow on standby on busy weekends. With my wife Debbie, and Peter Dimmers, we run the shop from week to week. That includes, retailing, hosting parties, corporate hire, design and manufacturing the modular range of Mr Trax products, importing and some distribution. And sometimes, local and interstate deliveries. AMC: How did you get to this point? PVH: We started in 1994 with a single portable slot car track mounted on a trailer, and added another one the following year. We also purchased an old eight lane commercial hill climb track and located it within a skate centre in Cranbourne. In 1996 we moved to a factory in Narre Warren where we added a drag strip and a smaller hire track made from Ninco plastic sections. In 2001 we moved into Dandenong and after 16 years and a mix of 19 different tracks over that period, we made the latest move where we are now in our own purpose-built 800 m² facility which includes the raceway and licensed café with an adjoining CNC manufacturing complex where we make the track modules. AMC: The onset of Covid 19 must have come at a bad time. How has the last twelve months gone for you? PVH: Like other businesses, we had to rethink our strategies. It made us concentrate in other areas to maximize our survival, like increasing our product range and design features. AMC: How did the wooden track side of the business come about? PVH: I think it was in 2013, when it was our turn to host the Model Car Nationals slot meeting in Dandenong. I decided to design and build a new track to suit that race meet. Since then, we have built many commercial and corporate tracks that sit in almost every state of Australia. I got started with a router. I’ve spent many hours crawling over sheets of timber on the floor with a long straight edge and a hand-made compass. It can be a long and tedious process but thankfully I’ve now moved to CNC manufacture. My good friend Miguel La Torre (an Engineer) set me up with a licensed CNC program and said, “I know you’ll do something with this”. Miguel saw my vision and knew what I needed to progress it to the next stage. Now, after many hours of practicing, CNC programming has become second nature. AMC What designs are available using your modular track system? PVH: At the moment we have four systems available with a multitude of combinations. The folding two piece track we call the Lockdown Track in five options/sizes. We also have a modular speedway oval system in seven designs. Then there is our regular two and four lane modular system with about fifteen modular tables to choose from. And our latest 2021 release is the Mr Trax hybrid system. It has all the regular analogue two lane modular pieces plus the new digital sections. So now you can assemble as many modular tables as you like, and at any time, insert digital lane change sections to run up to six cars on two lanes, with pit lane access and re-fueling etc. AMC: What makes up your typical track systems? PVH: The tracks are made predominantly from MDF, supported on steel folding legs, and for digital racing we have integrated the Carrera lane change system into our timber tracks. It makes it easy for existing or new customers to add a commercially available product, be it a car or an accessory, to our hybrid system. The track surface is a special black paint we use - a well-guarded secret! It gets a great result whether you are racing with rubber or foam tyres. Our most popular controllers are the Slot.it controllers for the avid racer. And the DS Controllers are a great entry level. Power is supplied by the Hop Wo range of power supplies. It’s capable of handling any track size and power requirements up to 80 Amps. For race timing we use the Trackmate system. It serves the racing and drag racing community. Their range is extensive and very good, and we are the resellers in Australia. AMC: How do you engage with your clients? PVH: We go through all of the basic questions: Is it for corporate use or home. Do they want to hire or buy. What area is available. How many lanes are required. What is your largest group of people. What is the budget. Do they need a full turnkey operation. Do they need delivery/installation/training. We have worked with clients such as Mercedes, Kia, Phillip Island GP circuit, Crown Casino, GP teams, CAMS, trade shows, V8 Supercars, Good Friday Appeal. For custom manufacture we get down to the nitty-gritty. What is the footprint of the space – where are the doors and windows, where is the power, how will people get around the track. Then we get down to systems, how many lanes, analogue or digital. Will it be fast sweeping, or rally style, what kind of cars do they race. I often get asked about doing a Bathurst track, but it is hard to replicate a specific track and not waste space, so then I talk about making something similar that will maximise the amount of track, rather than replicate it exactly. Most people go that way once I have shown what I can produce for them. AMC Do you do scenery as well? PVH: Scenery can be a challenge. We do little ourselves apart from green infields, track borders and fences. You can put in a lot of hours to get a reasonable result which is very hard to make for a good price. We recently acquired the Australian agency for Magnetic Racing. They specialize in high quality, detailed laser cut buildings which are supplied in kit form. The kits come unpainted, so customers can put their own stamp on the buildings to suit their layouts. But if they have the budget and want it made, our good friend Tony Di Pastena (see AMC#103) can make detailed pieces. I can supply the CNC base templates that will drop straight into the track. Tony will add park benches, turnstyles, marshals huts, grandstands – things that suit the layout and it’s all nicely assembled and ready to go. AMC: Where to from here? PVH: There are many loose bits of paper with ideas floating around my office. And every now and then, I decide to explore one of them and bring it to reality. We are forever designing more modular sections to increase the range and versatility. AMC: How can people find out more about your services? PVH: Simple, www.mrslotcar.com or call during business hours 03-9796-3830.
  42. 3 points
    Content on here has been a bit slow - here's a build I did for an AMC article a while ago. Being from The 'Gong, I've always had a soft spot for the Byrt Ford cars that appeared at Bathurst in the old Series production days. Started with a Scalextric Phase II GTHO in Diamond White. Opened the driver's window as required in the race regulations and turned 12 slot wheels from an Oz Legends die cast Falcon in to inserts. Added Patto's decals and a race driver.
  43. 3 points
    A bit late but here is my Turbine car that I raced at Hornsby Vintage,brass & pianno wire chassis,Plafit Cheetah motor, not the nicest build but a very good car to drive. Was very competitive until some scallywags turned up with open wheeler retro's Cheers Jimmy
  44. 3 points
    Hoping a dulux tune up will shave time off my lap times! Was a white body version
  45. 3 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  46. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  47. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  48. 3 points
    New chassis Ford Focus WRC SCX
  49. 3 points
    Sometimes even old Auslot gets some scoop information and this one is an Aussie ripper. At the time one of the most hated race cars in Australia as it hurt our poor little feelings when the thoroughbred Nissan Skyline GTR beat our own Holden Commodore and England's Ford Sierra but now an icon in it's own right. Ah the good old days when racing cars looked like road cars with stickers. Thanks Mauricio for thinking of us and Armchair Racer for the scoop information. No release date yet but keep your eyes and wallets open for this one as I have already put in my order.
  50. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
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