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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  2. 5 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  3. 5 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  4. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  5. 4 points
    Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
  6. 4 points
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  7. 4 points
    This is a 3D printed starting point for a run of these in resin....dunno when but it has started.
  8. 4 points
    Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...
  9. 4 points
    Maserati 250F Caroll Shelby car finally finished. BRM and Mercedes W196 are next on the build list. [
  10. 4 points
    The Camaro restoration was going well, but then the Pandemic hit. The world's population was decimated and law and order went out the window. Those that were left had to scavenge and fend for themselves. Gangs roamed the wastelands taking what ever resources they wanted. Then the bodies started coming back to life...... It was time to head for the hills and live off the land... always wary - sleeping with one eye open....
  11. 4 points
    Here are a few pics of where my build is up to Just a little more work and then ready for paint Hope to be finished by end of next weekend Look forward to seeing all the finished builds
  12. 3 points
    I have been working on several projects in parallel making it impossible to finish any of them for some time.Here is the first one completed (well inserts are missing) ,3dp printed chassis and motor pod for Renault R8 SCX
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  15. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  16. 3 points
    New chassis Ford Focus WRC SCX
  17. 3 points
    Sometimes even old Auslot gets some scoop information and this one is an Aussie ripper. At the time one of the most hated race cars in Australia as it hurt our poor little feelings when the thoroughbred Nissan Skyline GTR beat our own Holden Commodore and England's Ford Sierra but now an icon in it's own right. Ah the good old days when racing cars looked like road cars with stickers. Thanks Mauricio for thinking of us and Armchair Racer for the scoop information. No release date yet but keep your eyes and wallets open for this one as I have already put in my order.
  18. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  19. 3 points
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  20. 3 points
    Some of you may have seen the pods Bingo from HBMRC club has been developing recently. This is his party, but as he hasn't yet begun a dedicated thread, I will get it started. This is the idea. Having driven ff050 sidewinders in the MR Slotcar McLaren F1 GTR when they came out, I was impressed with the tractability of a low powered, low profile motor in my favourite Sidewinder config. I badgered Paul until he got this underway, and has since presented me with a series of prototypes based on the CAD below He has printed these in PLA + They are very stiff, Paul has had to do a couple of tricks to reduce the risk of splitting along the printed layer lines. The pod he delivered tonight which I used has had a good try out. Tonight he dropped by a pair of pods fitted with a couple of motors. These are the two top pods pictured below. The bottom pod has a tiny ff030 motor fitted. One version of the ff050 pod takes 5.5mm pinion with 17.5mm spur or a 5mm pinion with 18mm spur, the other is for a 5.5mm pinion with 18mm spur. Small cars often have small OD wheels and the use of a 17.5mm spur just provides a little more ability to get track clearance with low profile wheel/tyre combos. Use with single inside flanged ball race, oilite or brass bush to retain maximum space for wheels. I actually fitted this one with a couple of nylon single sided bushes I had lying around from an unkown source. A decent, wide, brass bush would give more surface area for gluing in and avoid what I spilled with thin CYA.... ooops. The lower profile of the ff030 and ff050 enables these to fit under tray interiors that cannot accommodate a higher standard FC130 motor Working around the feeding trough call, I fitted the 5.5mm brass pinioned pod +18mm spur into a fairly well worked Sideways Capri, that had been running a standard Flat-6 angle-winder pod. I swapped over the same wheels/tyres at the bask I initially tried it 9:36, but it was just too low, so I switch to 9:32, and that felt a lot better. At the moment, the fiddle of getting the motor in place, with the power connection tags sticking out the end, means I had to hot glue it in place. I actually ran about 20 laps before I realised it was just sitting in place,and the direction of pinion turn, was all that was stopping it popping out.... This test bed car was running 5.5s in standard config. I quickly matched that with the ff050 motor which is 24.5k 95 g/cm torque, = 5.9 watts, versus the Flat-6 yellow which is 20,500 rpm 200 g/cm = 10.25 watts Those who regularly use low powered cars will know that a car which is tractable - easy to drive, will often match a much higher powered car with is a bit twitchy. But I got the Capri into the high 5.3s after a bit of body screw tweaking. I haven't touched the weight that was used to balance the original setup. I was able to do fairly consistent 5.4s and 5.5s. I have a few more adjustments for Paul to copy, which I created with a dremel.... Ahem... This pod is going to be quite useful. He is also working on inline versions for the ff050 and ff030, to suit very small cars.
  21. 3 points
    I originally built this to compete in the 2020 Tasman Proxy series, obviously with all that has happened that didn't happen so with the 2021 series being planned I thought it would be a nice thing to get the car finished, Just a couple of the car..... As in previous years the car features the FF050 motor with 9:24 off set SlotIt inline gears, Pauls tyres all round and all up it weighs in at around 55 grams. Initial testing saw the car lapping around my place at 4.7 or so which although a little off the pace from 2019 still fairly okay, hopefully further tidying up may see the car a tad quicker. Not too sure if this car will front the 2021 grid as I have a Ferrari 158 on the jig and that is now half done, Funny thing that once I got back onto the build I'm all refreshed and looking forward to getting the Ferrari done with a Honda RA271 also planned, Hope you like the pics Terry
  22. 3 points
    Got more scenery work done,dirt laid, grass down. Coming along.
  23. 3 points
    Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  24. 3 points
    https://imgur.com/a/umDJ3zf 3D printing these if anyone is interested. The internal diameter is 18mm
  25. 3 points
    It just goes to show....we can leave slotcars but slotcars never leaves us
  26. 3 points
    Nice update and great to see Rosco on the pace and on the podium... I'll just leave this here
  27. 3 points
    Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  28. 3 points
    Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery of Caruso. Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat. Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol. Matt
  29. 3 points
    My car is ready for track testing Just need to paint and fit the inserts
  30. 3 points
    Just converted these over ...... https://youtu.be/AOqql3cSzvM
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    Thought you might like a couple pictures of my track. If interested I have a few of how it was built too routed 4 lane wood with hydro all cast mountains, used as one of our 12 club race tracks for about 4 years in current state my first attempt at scenery etc so quite happy
  33. 3 points
    I have made my decision and raise the arms of Capricorn and Crockett in victorious might as FuglyCool dual winners. Congratulations to both of you on your world class builds. The high master of FuglyCool will be along shortly.....oh yea, oh yea, hey nonny nay.
  34. 3 points
    This was the grid for the 1967 F1 proxy that was run in North America a couple of years ago........ The cars had to have competed in the 67 Championship year, and they were pre registered to avoid duplicate numbers. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of individual cars.........the ones I still have photos of !! Marc Tylers' (Immense Miniatures)....McLaren Andi Rowlands' (policar) Al Pease Eagle. David Mitchums' concours winning Ferrari....... And the series winner........as luck would have it , my Lotus 33......
  35. 3 points
  36. 2 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  37. 2 points
    After toying with the idea of going down the street car path, I ended up here. This car will be raced at some point in our local V8 Supercar class so I added a contrast stripe and threw on a few random decals from the spares box. After all this, I think that I prefer the recessed tray version, so may knock another one out when i get a spare few hours.
  38. 2 points
    New chassis Mitsubishi Lancer WRC evo 7 Scalextric C2364
  39. 2 points
    Ok - we're about to shoot some colour..... but! My chosen Holts "radiant red" is of no use to me over Tamiya grey primer.... and I'm not prepared to attempt to spray an auto lacquer over the model so that I can... or it could very well result in the same disaster..... the thinners in the automotive paint are way too aggressive for the Tamiya paint... and I would further more than likely risk it fusing into the Tamiya putty beneath.... we would then be three weeks back to building up the putty.... not going to happen. I did some testing prior to mixing the paint up.... and have been saved despair. This testing clearly revealed that the automotive paint would have penetrated the primer - and putty.... so - it's out.... I am now in a conundrum as to paint again... but I believe I have come up with a solution. In the process of laying down a number of test patches inside the model - to compare the results over Tamiya grey primer - I have found that the Tamiya "red" acrylic - X-7 is not too far off the mark.. not as close as radiant red, but it's maybe only a hue or shade too "cyan" than it..... The radiant red breakdown was C 2, M 99, Y 100 and K 1..... the Tamiya X-7 is C 17, M 100, Y 100 and K 9...... Patto's ink is C 8m M 99, Y 100, K 1... so, what we have is just a tad more cyan in our Tamiya X-7.... and it will marry perfectly with both the Tamiya primer and putty.... The pic below reveals what would have eventuated if I'd gone ahead and sprayed up automotive paint (thinners, actually - the paint would have been fine)... The A9-X is at left, the underside of the LJ centre and the L-34 at right. As you can see, the paint used on both the A9-X and L-34 are very close to the Tamiya red (if not what was used at the factory in China).It's not as dark as I would like.. and I'm not going to mess with adding tint to it..... a nightmare, if ever I need to repair the paintwork... and small batches of "mix" simply don't stay matched for long periods. The six test strips inside the model, from left are.... Tamiya Mica Red in lacquer, Tamiya Red in lacquer, Tamiya X-7 red, Radiant red with lacquer thinners, Radiant red with Tamiya thinners, Radiant red as it was decanted out of the aerosol. You can clearly see that the last three have penetrated the grey primer.... resulting in a very much darkened outcome... I fear this penetration will also extend into the putty - and I am not going to risk that... Pic... So, we are going to mix up our X-7 with lacquer thinners and lay down a few coats until I get coverage.... hopefully, the Tamiya system will bring a satisfactory result.... I'm not planning on this being the final coat before decals, but we should get a fair indication of how the layers will settle down... Back later - exciting, isn't it? frats, Rosco
  40. 2 points
    Shaynus I have found 2 Scalextric XY/XW chassis in my spares boxes. PM sent. Oldskool62 I don't have any insider knowledge into the thought processes of slot car manufacturers but I'd suggest that for some establishing a spare parts inventory isn't high on their list of priorities. With many models having a defined production limit it is possible that the number of components produced is just enough to satisfy the production run, but there may be a small 'margin' to allow for quality control problems. However, the fact that it seems almost mandatory to equip each car with at least one 'wonky wheel' raises some doubt any quality control 'margin'. Perhaps the budget manufacturers are clever enough to realise that we 'serious enthusiasts' will source our spare parts from the up-market companies. Den
  41. 2 points
    Ok Shayne, just a few pix especially for you, but others may be interested in some of my little arsenal of tools for modeling... To start with - two pix of the two scalpels I use... pretty much Exacto blades in a #1 pen tool holder. The one at top is the tool I go to for very fine work.. scribing lines, delicate cutting away of very fine areas. It has been honed down to about 1/3rd thickness of the original blade. The shape of the cutting edge has been formed naturally by the honing process of the edge. What you can't see, is just how sharp this invaluable tool is.... it is sharper than razor sharp - one slip with this and you are through to the bone and probably into it. Not only is the main cutting edge razor sharp - but so to the back, which is also honed.... this is the edge I use for "gouging" backwards once a track has been established by the cutting edge. The side of the blade is honed as well... so that it does not grab or drag if need to go deep into a cut. You can see by the extreme point of this that it means business - and simply has to be treated with the utmost care - let one of your fingers go beyond the safety of the handle or grip... and you will cut... and deep. One thing this blade will not do for long - is hold its edge... it has to be kept regularly honed up to be effective for purpose. This is not so hard to do, because the blade is so thin - it only takes a few passes over a diamond stone and we have that amazing edge ready again for work. It will not take any abuse.. being so thin, it will either break off (which I do regularly) or blunt if pushed beyond light cuts... not that you'd want to put any weight behind this - if it snaps - you'll more than likely fall victim to whatever is left of the blade as you hand leaps forward... it is absolutely sharp, and I would not recommend anyone hone one up unless you are fully prepared to treat it with the utmost of respect... The lower scalpel is pretty much a stock Exacto blade.. but I have honed it up. I have kept the original thickness of this blade for the heavy lifting work of cutting... I hone this blade as well... but keep it thick and usually only use a 600 or 800 diamond stone .... never to the 1000 one used for my fine scalpel.. it simply won't hold the edge long enough to be effective for more than a few cuts... so, we leave this blade with a rougher face - which is more tolerant of being pressed and worked hard. Pic.. Second pic below shows the thickness of the blade... the standard one below gives contrast to that of the fine work one.... as you can see, this fine one has virtually no body at all from 2/3rds of the way along the blade... the end and tip are almost as sharp if moved sideways as it is downwards. The rear of the blade is also honed... for gouging... so - any finger which gets near any of the front of this blade will be cut... and deep... And the final scalpel I have - is an "actual" scalpel.. a medical surgeon's one.... If ever you happen to chance on getting one of these - they are simply brilliant. I don't know what the steel is, but it hold its edge for just so long... compared to probably what the rest are that come out of China.... or similar. The surgeon's scalpel is oddly shaped - but practical for many jobs. The but of this blade fits into a tool that I don't know... it is very odd shaped. My suspicion is that nothing but one of these blades will fit the tool - and the fitting of any other type of blade simply can't be used in surgery.... other than that, I'm clueless. I use this blade mainly for decals and making very sharp lines in masking tape... And before long, someone is going to ask me to put some pix up of other tools I use for bodywork and painting.... I threw most of what I use onto my desk and will explain them below the pic.... Across the top, there are 7 of my "rubbing blocks". Stainless steel backing with neoprene rubber glued to them. All of these are wrapped with various grades of wet and dry paper... sometimes I use them wet - other times, dry.. depending on what I'm blocking down. I use either side of them depending on the surface required... if it must be plate finish flat - it's the steel.. if there has to be some slight curve in a panel - I use the rubber side. I have made the thickness of the rubber so that sufficient paper can be wrapped around it... mainly to be comfortable between my fingers as I work the panel... The seven different sizes are, of course - for different sized areas... The entire process is not too far removed from an auto panel shop.. if you want a plate finish in a panel - you have to work the surface down to get it.. and you have to have an equally matching surface on your tool to achieve it... Keeping your paper clean is just as important as the tool itself... it it even get remotely clogged.. you'll gouge tram tracks into your finish... so, I usually go wet and keep it clean .... any grinding causes immediate stop of work.. and it's usually a number of paint spots which have bonded together ..... paper change.... or damage.. Next below are some of my straight edges.... I use these a lot to get straight lines. I am not ashamed to admit I often use blue tack to hold these in place... laying them onto a painted or plastic surface and expecting one hand to hold them in place whilst the other one is armed with a very sharp blade... not going to happen. so - I put a dab of blue tack over the "top" of the tool to hold it in place... not under it..... or we risk the edge coming up away from the work while we move the blade along.... You can see one of the edges I used on the tail-lights of the Torana.... it's actually painted in Floquil "rust"... I used it as a stirring stick - and the paint "stuck"... never bothered to clean it off. At one end of this tool, you can see that I have cut and ground out a notch ... the tool then laid on the bumper bar.. and this notch was used to run the horizontal lines across the top of the lights... at the other end, another notch... and this one was used when the tool was placed under the spoiler... allowing a straight edge along the bottom of the lights. I'm not afraid to make tools.. and never throw them away... I have a boxful.. from projects spanning decades... nearly all of them are stainless... or brass... they just "last". At bottom, we can see a few of my puttying tools... the smaller ends have been ground for my needs.... I particularly like the small triangle "ironing" one... it pushes putty into some very awkward places... the triangled shape of the rear of this tool allows me to "iron" in the putty and push it into shape.... being smooth, it comes away fairly easily without pulling off putty... and being so - is easily cleaned with some lacquer thinner.... On each side, are my little "icy pole" inventions..... I have containers of wooden icy pole sticks... and I use them for many things... Here, we can see that I have used some cyano to glue on some wet and dry paper... on drop, and roll the paper around the stick keeping it in close contact... when the cyano goes off - simply cut away the excess and you have a four edged sanding stick... Cutting the stick down to size to get into tight spots (like the quarter vents in the Torana) makes it easy to work in tight places... You can simply add more paper over the worn out bit.. but I usually just go find another stick.... cheap, but they work. If ever you want to get a mirror finish on paint.... go to your auto paint supplier and ask for some 2500 grit wet and dry, whilst you are there - get some 1500 and 2000 as well.... Use the rubbing blocks and work the surface back and forth.... for finite work, you can also add just a smidge of dishwashing liquid to lubricate the paper.. but it will slow the cutting process. Remember - if you "feel" or "hear" anything when you are rubbing - stop... you will be "gouging" your work... And to bring up a final mirror finish to this process... go get some Tamiya polishing compound.. I have it in two different grades.... a coarse and a fine. I like to work the finish up by hand, but it's not rare for me to fit a calico wheel to the Dremel and buff a finish up that way.... just be warned, too fast or too much pressure and you will destroy the paint.... the film of paint on a model should be wafer thin... so, we don't have a lot to work down through... Applying more paint to be able to work up a finish by applying more pressure is defective logic... you simply are only filling in precious detail... you will get the finish you want regardless of how thick the paint is... the thinner you can keep the entire process - the more difinitive will be your detail.... we are not "weather proofing" a model with a coating... it's never going to stay out in the sun and rain for weeks on end... but, it will get a workout with "marshall's" mitts and the odd "off"... so, our top coat should be fairly resilient.. not necessarily meaning "thick"... Ok.. that should do it for now... happy to answer any questions.... frats, Rosco
  42. 2 points
    Progress has been slow to say the least, but, the body is finished...... This is an AMT 1/24 Lola T70 from 1966,.....the kit was somewhat incomplete, so i did make/replace a few bits (apologies to the purists),..but,..I did invariably modify my cars as a kid, so, I can live with it The chassis is not done yet, and I will post a shot in a couple of days when completed. Cheers,..and Happy New Year Chris Walker The colour is Tamiya "Champagne" gold, and although this is a fantasy livery, it does look like it could belong on a 65/66 USRRC/CanAm Lola. The gauges do look quite realistic, despite my crummy photo. I have made a small aluminum rear lip spoiler......debating on whether to stick it on. The wheels are not original,.....they are Russkit Lola T70 1 piece cast aluminum......gorgeous !! And the yet unfinished AMT chassis,.....a few wire braces, a brass front axle tube, and a much modified AMT 36D motor.
  43. 2 points
    I have been researching colours for an Aussie Mini to do a paint of a BRM white kit. I found a nice blue one that Peter Manton ran and during my research I found that Norm Beechey ran a Chevy Nova also in the blue. With some help from Auslot members I found a suitable blue. (Went for Duplicolor Blaze Blue - thanks Alan) Now all I need to find is a 1/24/1/25 MKII Cortina and I will be able to do the whole team. A friend had a AMT slot kit in need of a new home
  44. 2 points
    What's with Aussies and their inability to follow rules? All the infringements are for Australian cars and most are for the guys I race with. 32coupe .. minus 5 points for small front tyres (must be within 2mm dia of rear tyres) and minus 5 points for rear tyres stick out from the body. Alvaro .. minus 5 for small front tyres Curef .. minus 5 for small front tyres and minus 5 for windscreen/glass not being transparent Dave P .. minus 5 for small front tyres and minus 5 for weight under chassis - must be contained inside the car Supercharged .. minus 5 for small front tyres Read the rules next time guys. Cheers Paul
  45. 2 points
    For being "reasonably new to slot cars" you're doing great. ..... You're streets ahead in terms of IT and 3DP than I am and ever hope to be.
  46. 2 points
    Awesome night great racing...but I'm gutted! Munter , haven't seen him for (well lost count of the weeks) comes to the night with a grin from ear to ear, nice to see you too, races like he's never missed a night then goes home with a bigger grin and some liquid refreshments. What an absolute legend! Great to watch down to the last second
  47. 2 points
    Had a mate give me a 3D printed chassis. He had printed the chassis, guide and wheels to try out. Here's what I recieved. The chassis itself is printed with a swing arm/pivot point from just behind the motor. The wheels on it in this pic are from the cheap Avant Slot chassis's from a few years back. Not sure how well it will work, can always glue it in place to make the chassis stiffer. Here's the chassis fitted to a Mustang Supercar. The wheels are printed so you can glue your own inserts etc to it to create the hub for the tyre. Since I had some resin inserts I filed them down to fit and created wheels to suit the modern Supercars. (Sorry no pic at hand) I also cut up a resin wing from another car (BA Falcon I think) and made a wing which more resembles the Mustang. This is the prototype before being cast. And yeah, I painted the car up in the 2020 Shell McLaughlin livery. The 3D printed wheels were surprising true, although after I glued on the inserts to create the hub for the wheels I did true them on my tyre razor just to make sure. How's it run? Not sure yet, but will be taking it to Syd's track to give it a run, the 3D printed guide is to deep for my home Scalextric Sport layout. cheers Matt
  48. 2 points
    Might be an idea Kevan to find out what Alexis is thinking rather than other people trying to take things over, after all HE is the organiser of this already long drawn out 2020 IPS , so Alexis we await your thoughts
  49. 2 points
    The jag ended up here. I was after the 'weekend racer' look so went with no decals. Nice wee runner. The rear wheel drive conversion helps no end. Lockdown's now pretty much unlocked over here, so I guess this is the last of these COVID builds. Thanks for looking; you crazy kids.
  50. 2 points
    Hi Rosco, If you are planning on moving the axle forward (3.5mm) in order to have the motor shaft control the lateral movement of the Crown, you may want to consider the following.........in right hand corners the lateral movement of the axle lets the motor shaft rub on the left hand side of the Crown slot....in this instance the motor shaft is spinning in the opposite direction to the Crown, causing friction, and is the main reason you frequently see bronze/brass particles in this area. While lubricating the crown slot/motor shaft helps, it does not eliminate the fact that the motor shaft/crown are rotating in different direction, when they touch in right hand corners. It is best to control lateral axle movement/mesh with axle spacers,.....and,.....although it is a pain, it is best to use these spacers on either side of the Crown, inboard of the rear bushings..........this eliminates any mesh issues should the wheels move (in or out) on the axle, which invariably happens. Stay Safe Chris Walker I have used a mix of different thickness spacers (you can't see the .005 ones) to control mesh/lash in both directions,....the mesh stays constant, and eliminates any motor shaft interference......more consistent, smoother (faster) performance, and, your gears will last forever
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