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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/20/2021 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  2. 3 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  3. 2 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  4. 2 points
    We were supposed to round this round last week but circumstances etc. This coming Sunday, 1pm local time on Dave's track. It's another power track, suits the cars with boxer motors. Cheers Paul
  5. 2 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  6. 1 point
    My pleasure Mate I'm sorry it took so long Cheers NimROD
  7. 1 point
    Outstanding! From a great print to a spectacular finish, Beautiful Build Mate, Love it Cheers NimROD
  8. 1 point
    Forgot to mention - main issue with them was the roll bar mounts.. they didn't line up and had to be re-drilled. Also, you'll notice with "purple" it cants forward.. this was another model error.... with "blue", I did quite a bit of filing to the front of the engine which allowed me to move the bar vertical. I had to cajole away a bit of engine and body underneath to get the float. As it came in the kit (and also the Elvis car) the motor fouls the body from full float... The wheel inserts all needed sanding down... they were too tight a fit into the hubs... tricky job, to get them to run true... I used clear nail polish to keep them in splace... applying the polish to the inside of the hub rather than on the insert. This way, the insert pushes the polish into the hub as it enters.... painting the stuff onto the insert causes the polish to build up and spread over the outside of the hubs and tyres... again, "blue" got the benefit of learning from that exercise. The roll bar support fits into a slot in the roll bar and at the other end, it goes into the motor... it's not quite right and a bit of argy needs doing to get the bar vertical... blue won over purple here. The motor parts went together well. The main block is airbrushed in SMS "stainless". The fittings are Molotow - as are the roll bar and mirror. I also used it on the gearshift linkage, but used Tamiya "rubber black" on the steering wheel rim and gear knob.... "rubber black" is my go to for such things - it really tricks up detail. With "Elvis" - I noted the join lines around the model... I didn't want those.... and used Tamiya putty in assembly. It brought a much better end finish to the model... I was a little disappointed in "Elvis"... so very well finished, I'd have expected them to have gone that little more and make the result brilliant - rather than excellent... picky, I know...... "Elvis" is a great looking model - the decals are simply stunning. The headlight assembly is quite tricky to assemble... but it looks amazing. On my LJ XU-1, I have cut some small discs of styrene card and painted them in Molotow chrome. With the Elva's and also T70 Lola - I tried to paint Molotow on the rear of the headlight lenses.... it didn't work - and left them satin silver. My plan for the XU-1 is to fit the small styrene discs to the rear of the lens... and use "canopy glue" to secure them. Gluing around the discs once in place. This should negate the dulling of the Molotow yet will securely fasten them to the rear of the lens..... I'll post this up on the LJ thread once done. That little model is nearly done - but I'm having issues with the interior. I can make use of a lot more room in there and it seems wasted to fit the almost flat tray just below the windows line... I am looking for a head for Peter Brock... any suggestions? I'll put something up on the Mr Slotcar McLaren M6a soon... the paint I used is simply stunning.... SMS "black hole" colour shift - first time for me, and it went down very easily - I was expecting issues with laying it, but it was fairly straight forward... I used SMS "super black" underneath - this brought more of the blue/purple out - using a white base would have brought more of the orange... which is pretty much dormant over "super black"... I'm in the mixing stage for another model - a Revo-slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit. My daughter wants this sprayed in "metallic teal"... which is simply not available. Scott at SMS (this bloke backs his small private company by hard advice) suggested I spray "pearl white" as a base and either top coat with "spearmint green" or "ice blue".... then over coat that with "clear aqua"... we are messing around on plastic spoons at present - getting close, but I believe I'll end up making up a mix of my own using the suggested colours... as done with "blue" Elva. I seriously suggest and promote SMS paints - as in a separate thread. The "premium" range is perfect for airbrushing straight out of the bottle. The "advance" range can be hand brushed or thinned at 1:1 with thinners. All of them are true acrylic laquers... not the soft and pliable psuedo acrylic that Tamiya use... I have found it leaves fingerprint imprints in it even after weeks of pulling down - SMS has not done this. Further, top coating with 2K "ultra clear".. simply stunning... make it as "deep" as you wish.. or just a light coat to maintain a more lifelike finish. Ok.. think that covers the Elva's... great model - looking forward to seeing them do some laps. "Elvis" is a shelf queen.. it won't see a track but join company with a very small number of others that I want to keep as collector cars.... one of the A9-X's is on this shelf as well..... lead by six laps, and set the track record on the last lap of the 1,000 km race - what a weapon! frats, Rosco
  9. 1 point
    Hi folk, about time I put some posts up on some models I've now finished. I purchased the Thunderslot McLaren Elva of Elvis Presley, Bruce McLaren, Graham Hill some time back - and fell in love with it. I ordered two white kits and decided I'd start playing with pearl paints from SMS.. first time for me. I was able to reference the finished factory model for reference - and decided I'd follow the trim lines for both my models. I have found that building two of anything at the same time produces a "poor relation" and one which enjoys the benefit of practice... I have done this with scratch building locomotives and rolling stock. The kit went together really well and I am very impressed .. but, it needed some argy bargy to get some of the parts to fit... with a bit of scraping/cajoling/sanding until they all sat down and played nicely together.. The first one, I bought some SMS "pearl grape" some time back.. and it went without thought to use it on one of these two... I chose "inca gold" for the trim colour.... The second one, I found a lovely pearl light blue called "ice blue"... I could not find anything close to what I wanted for the darker colour.. so, mixed up one of my own using SMS again... I used ice blue, black and some VR blue to get the darker pearl colour I wanted.. and am so happy with it, I will use it again when opportunity arises.. I really like the combination of bringing these two "ice blue" base colours together.. see what you think... I have the order back to front .. This was my first of the two builds.... "purple grape" with "inca gold" ... and note the longer ram tubes. With both models, I used the trim colour for the driver's helmet and wheel inserts. I used clear green for the driver's goggles with "purple".. and kept with the blue theme for clear blue for those of "blue"... Here's purple - so far, only one vote for "purple".. "blue" seems to be winning this almost outright... your thoughts? I'll have a few more posts to put up... I have been a bit slack in posting up my work.. I have completed a white kit "Mr Slotcar" F1 GTR McLaren in a "colour shift" SMS called "Black hole".. very impressed. Also, there has been a Thunderslot white kit of a Lola T70 mk 3. I have six new NSR models and six Revo slot ones... only one of these 12 has been a white kit - a Porsche 911 GT-2 (for my daughter)... we are making up a colour scheme for that using SMS paints... based on "spearmint green" pearl and "clear aqua".. I have thrown some "teal" into that to get the contrasting darker colour... report and pix as I work through this one. Further, I do not like my models "sitting" on their tyres. Every one I have (nearly 70, maybe more) - I have made platforms for them to sit on.. with the tyres clear. The Revo cars have gone one further, and I am making up wooden floors for the boxes - I do not like the factory supplied cardboard base... My wooden floors are made from 7 mm ply and routed out where tyres/motor and guide foul.... the floor is elevated by some 5 mm Tasmanian Oak quad.. Might do a report on this as well .... some time, if anyone is interested.. Ok... just thought it time to put these up... they were completed a couple of weeks back... none of my new cars have seen a track yet.. maybe in just under two weeks - our usual annual set up here for Bathurst (late this year). frats, Rosco
  10. 1 point
    Ok folk, bump.... been a while on this thread. Cooper #2 returned from this year's Tasman Cup proxy series.. didn't get a podium, but was awarded the John Smedley constructors award... chuffed. Sadly, there is quite a bit of paint damage - not down to running in the series, but issues with Tamiya surfacer/primer. It showed up a lots of lateral cracks across the body - I believed it may have been the Humbrol cleer cote (note spelling), but such was not the case. I started rubbing it down and it wasn't long before I found that the issue was deep... way deep - at primer level. The Tamiya colour coats were fine - but the primer fragmented below them... the cracks making their way to the top.... I have now rubbed back the body to bare resin and am now using SMS paints... so far, three coats of white primer/surfacer and two rub backs... I have airbrushed a mix of three different SMS paint colours to get the gold of Tamiya.. and are pretty happy with it. I ended up using a mix of Inca Gold, Rich Gold, Super Silver and some Yellow to get as close as I could to Tamiya Titan Gold.. I'll use SMS white this time and finally overcoat everything with SMS 2K Ultra Clear.... that stuff is simply amazing - such depth and flow-out. Ok, will have some pix soon... big job, it was easier the first time around without the driver, cockpit and windshield in situ.. As rubbed back to resin... frats, Rosco
  11. 1 point
    Updated photos of the CA39e race n.70 12h Sebring 2014 Lola, is a great looking car
  12. 1 point
    Found this Youtube clip which is quite a laugh. Wish I'd painted the door cards beige now.
  13. 1 point
    Received a Motul Nissan GT-R, great looking, detailed body. Body and chassis nice and flat, chassis quite rigid. Love the sidewinder set up, planty of clearance between motor and interior. Only small complaint is the guide sits a fair way below the chassis, pushing up the chassis ride height at the front. The rake is backwards, not sure if I got a bad one, or if its how they come. Any tips welcome.
  14. 1 point
    Saw this running last night. Supercool. Stance is spot on. Nice one, Pat.
  15. 1 point
    Hello Vinno, for the reasons you have stated I stay away from adjustable height rear bushings. Even using a jig with se-up block wheels, they are a pain to align properly., and are prone to moving in their housings................likely someone thought this was a cool idea, but in reality, they are far from that If you want to play with rear axle position, buy fixed position plastic offset pods, or, better yet, scratchbuild you chassis PS most, if not all high performance slot car chassis have the rear bushings soldered in place (aligned first) for a reason. Cheers Chris Walker
  16. 1 point
    Toy Brands V's Professional Slot Racing Car
  17. 1 point
    You need to write a book on The Definitive Guide to Slot Car Modifications. I'd buy a copy. Cheers Paul
  18. 1 point
    I've used the Selley's Quick Fix Supa Glue in the Stand Up Tube for years now. Sticks well to most plastics, great for MDF, glues tyres to the wheels etc. Unless you knock it over and lay it down it won't block the spout or glue the cap in place. Kept standing it will last until it's all used. Only problem I have found lately is that it is out of stock at most Bunnings.
  19. 1 point
    Ya gotta be happy with that
  20. 1 point
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  21. 1 point
    Hi davo43,............A bit of info on how you are planning to go racing would be helpful !! What type tyres are you planning on using ? Are you running on wood or plastic ? If running on plastic, will you be using magnets ?.......if no, are you hoping to use the motor magnets to provide some level of magnetic downforce ? All of the above, will dictate the set-up. Cheers Chris Walker
  22. 1 point
    Hahahaha doubt if you will be able to do that BARacer, look think we all want to have some fun and be competative , been doing proxy racing for round about 12 years now and in that time met some great helpful people who really helped me get along with it. Never aimed to win as it,s very hard to do against seasoned drivers and cars in their own enviroment , but have managed to put out reasonable cars that might give me a go of a podium or two, Proxy racing is no longer the force it was , not so long ago we had the OZ rally, Tasman, ATCC, and the WRP which alone had 40 odd entries but like every thing people loose interest , sometimes it is because they can't see any light at the end of the tunnel, some get bored , and find they just can't build competative cars. There was Alexis and the IPS proxy in my opinion one of the best again over 40 entries and it was really good to see your car one month in Oz then Scotland, Greece, Wales e.t.c and Canada , we had regular updates , pictures comments on all the cars from the venue's and the racing was really good , like all venues some strange drivers but you learned to build cars others could drive, you never stop learning. Paul and myself had great competition around 3 years ago in this proxy when that went wider a field we both ran similat Merc's and it was nip and tuck but always good humoured fun really looked forward to where each of us were, things have changed now , as i have said these proxies have been waining before Covid and the usual one's are no longer running due to this and as i have said costs involved, and times they are a changing my friend. Over the pond there are a few interesting proxy racing series like the 997 Porsche i though i would have a go at this year , another learning curve , knew i could build smooth well handling cars but once again i am finding lack of straight line pace affects my lap time not by a lot as that proxy has a lot of very competative cars in it think a couple of tenths cover around 15 cars most races, but i have picked up in the comments from each venue useful info to improve the car this time i know i need to change the motor, to use the one which is doing well overall so far , as i have found that motor is actually running better here on my track than my entry , so that is another learning curve. My time is drawing to a close what with health issues and i suppose getting a bit bored with the length some proxy's take to run, understand that people who run them put a lot in to making theas things happen and have always tried to support them even those miles away , as without the support there will not be enough entrants to actually run them , not much fun having no REAL competition to improves your skills
  23. 1 point
    Sideways have announced that the Toyota Celica is now in stock at their distribution centre in France. This was originally planned for release in January, before a factory issue (broken mold! ) caused rescheduling Chassis: Podded - has the rigid Sideways 5 point pod. Chassis can also take any Slot.it Pods Motor: Slot.it Flat-6 20,500rpm 200 g/cm torque 10.25 watt, mounted a/winder with adaptors for 0.5mm and 1.0mm offset Axle & Gears - 2.38mm (3/32nd) Gearing: Crown 28t (GA1628-pl) - Pinion 11t brass Has adjustable height front axle - requires optional M2.0 Hex screws, not supplied with car Hubs front: Plastic 16.5 x 8.2mm Hubs rear: Alloy 16.5mm x 8.2mm Tyres front: Product code PT Tyres rear: Product code PT Accessories supplied with car: M2 allen key under box, adaptors for 0.5mm and 1.0mm offset of rear axle SSD Upgradable: Yes, use Slot.it SP15b
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