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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  2. 2 points
    I have been working on several projects in parallel making it impossible to finish any of them for some time.Here is the first one completed (well inserts are missing) ,3dp printed chassis and motor pod for Renault R8 SCX
  3. 2 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks Vinno - I should have avoided asking you the question - apologies.... I went to the Tamiya website.... X20A thinners is acrylic thinners, it's water based. Hence the "A" behind it... no idea what the 20 means... The "X" series of paints are acrylic... and I have used both acrylic and lacquer thinners with them both.... X-20A is propanol/alcohol based (not recommended as a substitute for beer) and hence why it can be used directly on styrene and other sensitive plastics. Lacquer thinner has ethylene glycol monobutyl and methyl isobutyl ketone.... it would be the ketone which would be the most aggressive of these solvents... I'll thin the acrylic (X series) clear coat with X-20A thinner... should be fine.. I can then go over the top with an enamel clearcoat... more than likely the Humbrol enamel clear that I have... it hardens and pulls down very nicely.... frats, rosco
  5. 1 point
    Hi folk, spent most of yesterday making up a little booth to airbrush models in..... out of plywood and some pine framework... It has long been a concern of mine that some of the chemicals I use are probably not good for me, although after some 55 years - and using some of the most harshest of these when a kid... .like model aeroplane dope... in a bedroom with the door and windows closed - it's surprising I'm still here.... However - with failing eyesight, I find that I need plenty of light when airbrushing now - to get satisfactory results.... and I came up with an idea which would lend itself to serve both purposes... lighting and also to vent away the chemicals when airbrushing.... I bought three very bright LED house downlights.. and cut holes in the top and both sides of my booth to fit them..... the results are quite pleasing... lights up the area like the Blackpool illuminations.. very easy to follow a "wet edge" as you apply paint to a model... I cut a hole in the upper rear as well.. and will fit a small computer ball bearing fan (on order)... I'll make up a voltage regulator circuit so that I can control the speed of the fan... enough to vent the fumes, but not enough to draw dust in from the front of the booth - or to draw the fan of paint away.... Some pix.... This is the booth, with a model on a wire frame for size comparison.... you can see the three fitted LED's in this pic. I am currently in the process of refurbing my oldest models... purchased in June of 1970 when I started work at age 15... both Scalextric - a Ferrari P4 and a Lamborghini Muira (C16 and C17). I intend to post a refurb report on these models... with white metal gearboxes.... they are both now great runners.. with original motors in them.. but I have done quite a bit of work to get them to run.... report later.... Booth..... This one gives a pretty good indication of the light within the booth.... the pic was taken in this room of mine, with the light on.... clearly, the room light is no match for that of the booth... And finally - looking inside the booth.... not quite needing sunglasses - but certainly enough light to follow the wet edge around a model when air-brushing... I chose to paint the booth using acrylic house primer/sealer... it is non-gloss and avoids a lot of reflection on the model.... easy to clean and should not attract dust. I have fitted my airbrush holder on the right of the booth... not shown in these pix... Hope this gives folk some ideas.... frats, Rosco
  6. 1 point
    Thanks Mac, I like the 2 1/2 minutes, it makes my lap count look more respectable.
  7. 1 point
    Hi guys new here just in the process of rebuilding my old Artin 4 lane plastic track 1/32. Will post pics as the build proceeds. Im hoping to get a club running down this way if there is anyone in the area and interested. Phil
  8. 1 point
    Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
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