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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  3. 2 points
    Hoping a dulux tune up will shave time off my lap times! Was a white body version
  4. 2 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  5. 2 points
    The Revo range of slot cars is quite popular here , i don't have any but a friend has so i borrowed his Porsche , now these cars are rather nice but to many exclusive componments which i can't mix into my stock of slot cars and interchange things . There are available now bubble packs of the bodies and a 3d chassis so thought i would have a go at my own Revo car , purchased the body at £25 which is already decorated and painted i chose the B Parmalat version and the chassis to fit at £20 so at £45 i have what i needed to build the car and use the rest from my stock of spares, incidentally if you had to do the lot i have done from scratch it would be a £100 car. The body comes with a detachable wing which is affixed to the body by a magnet actually a very strong magnet , neat idea , also you get a couple of lexan interiors which i didn't know why they were there until later, the chassis just comes with the axle grub screws already there. The build dead easy as this chassis is perfectly flat strong and hard and the body mountongs line up perfectly, so i selected a Slot it ballraced sidewinder pod, a Pirana 25 K Ballrace motor, slot it sidewinder gears 11x 35, a Thunderslot wood guide i recommend this as there is no blade recess underneath this chassis and the Thunderslot allows you to run the front low, NSR soft braids, titanum rear axle , Staff gold wheels and Yellowdog tres all round , weight was added midships and up front car weight is 87-6 gr all up. Mating the completed chassis up to the body noted why there are 2spare interiors , the original fouls of the pod top front rails , the spares are low depth, not a problem to change , remove the interior cut the drivers legs of , paint new interior detail and refix the driver in the new interior and all done, perfect no fouling at all. On the track after the usual lube and running in gave this car a really good hammering and what a great build, my mate came over and we both gave it some wellie , and his comments summed it up bugger me that car is very very quick and handles so well with that guide. Final thoughts really does look right flat low and wide , great body finish, down side the price of doing it , would i do it again yes thinking the Viper next even though the cost is a bit much but for a one off it,s great.
  6. 2 points
    Ok folk, time to post some more up.... Cooper #2 is nearly done... a little fit of fitting out and it's ready to be sent off to the Marshal's Paddock for the upcoming Tasman Cup proxy series... First up... took a while, and the face will have to be re-painted... poor chap looks like he has jaundice.... will use some Vallejo flesh paint on him tomorrow... love the detail I got out of the mold... We're out of the paint shop... all done. I was a bit concerned the white over gold would be a bit bland, but the black numerals and tyres seem to have drawn it all together. I still have to fit the mirrors and fuel caps plus some detail work on the rear canopy mount and Cooper badge.. but it's pretty much done. I spent all evening on the steering wheel... I made this one up with styrene rod and sheet. It is drilled with an 0.5 mm drill and there is also a 1.0 mm steering column which I drilled through as well. A 0.5 mm brass rod will hold it all together and that will be glued into the dash. The decals for the gauges come from one of Patto's sheets.. it fits the Cooper dash perfectly. I have to clear coat it with floor polish tomorrow - then the steering wheel can go in... then the driver.. and when all is set in place - finish off with the windscreen... So, my entry is nearly there... chassis is finished and runs very sweetly... I believe this one is actually a bit better than Cooper #1.. even if it was a bit rushed. until next.... frats, Rosco
  7. 2 points
    After toying with the idea of going down the street car path, I ended up here. This car will be raced at some point in our local V8 Supercar class so I added a contrast stripe and threw on a few random decals from the spares box. After all this, I think that I prefer the recessed tray version, so may knock another one out when i get a spare few hours.
  8. 2 points
    Hi Tony Had to loose some weight to make it legal so made my own body mounts,in the process it came to me to make the main base plate carbon fibre for my 2022 GT3 saving 20gms which I think has been my down fall in previous Proxy's. Might be wrong but so close to the big dogs I need to try something different & I think light weight is the only thing I haven't tried. So watch out for a very light weight GT3 next year,testing yesterday with carbon base plate came in faster than my M6. Love the challenge that Proxy's throw at you,makes you test your self to build the ultimate slot car & if you don't succeed it was fun trying anyway. An old mate rang me the other day to ask for advice on a slot car repair & when he asked me what I was doing I tried to explain what Proxy's were & I suddenly realised how hard it is to make a slot car to go fast on 10 different tracks that you haven't even seen before,now thats a challenge. Wiin lose or draw I don't care as long as strangers enjoy driving my cars I consider myself a winner. Cheers Jimmy
  9. 2 points
    Well, this is an older topic that I thought was worth a comment on in current circumstances. I for one, am very thankful that forums such as this still exist. In the wake of F Books bully boy tactics in this country I am certainly re-considering my need for it being a part of my life anymore, and I'll wager quite a few others are in the same boat. If this means a return to a higher level of interest in this style of discussion group, then that would be a very good thing. Thanks to all who continue this platform.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I always wanted to do this. And a test fit... Lots more to do but happy so far.
  12. 1 point
    Great work there Roscoe. Love the paint job. Fantastic job on the suspension too. Presume the instrument panel is a commercial work. I am sure the driver will enjoy keeping a track on instruments as he races around the Tasman Cup circuits. Needs to mind he does not over rev the engine or do you fit a rev limiter. My Brabham BT3 is still lagging but hoping to finish by end of February. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I guess because the time and diameter cancel each other out leaving Pi.
  15. 1 point
    The Batmobile from the 1966–1968 live action television show and its film adaptation began life as a Ford concept car called the Lincoln Futura, built over a decade earlier in 1955. The body of the Futura was fabricated by Ghia of Italy, whose artisans hammered the car's panels over logs and tree stumps carved as forms to create the sleek manta ray-like car. In 1959, the Futura was featured sporting a fresh red paint job in the film It Started With A Kiss, starring Debbie Reynolds and Glenn Ford. In 1965, ABC-TV chose famed Hollywood customizer George Barris to design a "Batmobile" for their soon-to-go-into-production Batman show. Dean Jeffries worked on the design and initial fabrication for the Batmobile, using a 1959 Cadillac, but when the studio wanted the car faster than he could provide, he turned it back to George Barris. With only three weeks to finish, Barris decided that rather than build a car from scratch, it would be best to transform the Lincoln Futura (bought from Ford for $1.00) into the famous crime fighting vehicle of TV's caped crusader. Barris hired Bill Cushenberry to do the metal modifications to the car. When filming for the series began, several problems arose due to the age of the car: it overheated, the battery went dead, and the expensive Mickey Thompson tires kept blowing. By mid season, the engine and transmission were replaced with a Ford Galaxie. The most frequent visual influence of this car is that later Batmobiles usually have a rear rocket thruster that usually fires as the car makes a fast start. Gadgets The extra-large bat-trunk in the Batmobile holds various crime-fighting equipment and has plenty of space to fit eight people comfortably. The windshield is bulletproof. And of course, the Batmobile is not without its helpful gadgets: Bat-glove Compartment Infrared Bat-dust (glows in light and in dark, but only visible when viewed through the Batmobile specially tinted windshield) Emergency Bat-turn Lever (releases the Batmobile parachute that enables quick turns) Bat-deflector (diverts a criminal tracking signal, leading them to a miniature Batcave in the middle of nowhere) Bat-ray (can do many things, such as open van doors) Super-powered Bat-magnet (for opening steel doors from a distance) Odor Sensitometer Radar Circuit (puts a certain scent on the radar screen) Ultrasonic Recorder (also records regular sounds) Batmobile Parachute Pickup Service Signal (calls aforementioned service to pick the Batmobile parachute off the city street) Emergency Bat-trunk Lock Bat-zooka (can fire explosive blasts, or is used to fire bat-ropes to tops of very tall buildings) Anti Mechanical Bat-ray (renders mechanical apparati useless) Battering Ram (also known as the Bat-ram, used for knocking down reinforced doors) Library Paste Bat-dissolving Switch Bat-safety Belt Bat-radarscope Bat-alert Buzzer (in all Bruce's cars, indicates when the Batphone in the Batcave is ringing) Bat-scope (TV screen that can be used to monitor someone's movements) Anti-theft Activator (can be disguised as the Start button, fires fireworks from the car) Anti-fire Activator (fills Batmobile with extinguishing foam) Bat-ray Projector (fires Blu-ray from headlights that shut down a car's ignition) Hidden Bat-laser Beam Homing Receiver Scope Inflatable Batmobile (kept in Batmobile for use as a decoy) Batphone Batman and Robin seats This Batmobile original gadgets included the nose-mounted chain slicer, lasers, rockets, an on-board telephone, radar, dash monitor, on-board computer, and police beacon. If needed, the Batmobile is capable of a quick 180° "bat-turn" thanks to two rear-mounted 10' parachutes, and it is equipped with a smoke emitter and a nail spreader to discourage pursuit. Some changes were made during the run of the series, including different license plates, a change in steering wheel, and the addition of extra gadgets such as the rear-facing camera and battering ram. Technical specifications Curb weight: 5500 lb Wheelbase: 129 in Length: 230 in Width: 90 in Height: 48 in Fins: 84 in Engine: 390 in³, V-8 (atomic turbine) Transmission: B&M Hydro Automatic (2nd transmission) The original was sold foe $4.2 million US
  16. 1 point
    Came across a few of the Old School cars from a couple of mags i picked up from the 80's
  17. 1 point
    The Australian news on FB is mainly fake or has an agenda like the rest of the world so no real loss in fact probably a gain.
  18. 1 point
    I really don't think I have ever used Facebook for news so I don't get what all the nonsense is about. I do look at the ABC news site online and if there is something that peeks my interest internationally I go to USA Today or BBC etc but I don't recall ever opening Facebook to check out the new for the day. When I use Fb - I message friends or I check out special interest groups eg Historic Racing groups and slot car groups. About the only thing other than that I look at is cute cat videos or people falling off ladders. At the moment Fb thinks I like videos on animal rescues so I keep seeing videos of people pulling a deer out of a lake or a owl stuck in a fence. That will teach me to watch one or two of them..... DM
  19. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Next issue is trying to get a very flat SMD LED with a lens. Lots of versions around with no lens. However it will need to be tested and perhaps the next challenge. Next step to test at speed and this requires transplanting the Arc Pro lapcouting hardware into the infinity vertical test loop. Rick
  20. 1 point
    Tamiya TS49 bright red is pretty close, that's what I used on my Mustang years ago. Use a white undercoat too.
  21. 1 point
    The orange Camaro looks much better than the red Mustang. Latter looks all bonnet. The Monaro too. Chas Le Breton
  22. 1 point
    Hi As Den mentioned, I usually snip those posts off to ensure free body rock. I usually glue the bushes in as well. I have this same model and have done this.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Graeme. I'm not sure of the reason for a different approach between the Falcons and the Holdens you have purchased, but the reason for removing the plastic mouldings that press down on the nylon bearings seems fairly straightforward. Those mouldings will only hold the bearings in place if the body is screwed down tightly to the chassis. Most 'serious' slot car enthusiasts will loosen the body screws to allow the body to 'rock' or 'float'. Leaving those mouldings in place may actually limit the amount of 'rock' or 'float'. An extension of this theory is the removal of any other mouldings that might inhibit body movement e.g. the raised lips on the chassis mounting points where the body posts connect, 'surplus' body mounts (some chassis have 6 mounting points where 4 would be plenty) and any other moulding that limits body movement. Den
  24. 1 point
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  25. 1 point
    It just goes to show....we can leave slotcars but slotcars never leaves us
  26. 1 point
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