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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/11/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco
  2. 2 points
    We're back to racing - Wednesday night on Bob's track. Nice long straight for those cars that like to stretch their legs.
  3. 2 points
    It's a track we rarely race on. Bob's other track is his preferred choice but it's plastic.
  4. 2 points
    Rosco, You need a 15.5mm Spur......buy the 15.5mm straight cut ergal Spur from MRSlotcar,......there is absolutely no need (or advantage ) to using an"angled" Spur, these went out of vogue in the early seventies, and you will not see a high end 1/32 or 1/24 club or commercial track car using them. Similarly, many folks running 1/32 plastic cars do not think of using them. Straight cut Spurs can also be used boss in , or, boss out, depending on your spacing/clearance. And by the way, there is no such thing as a dedicated inline/Sidewinder/anglewinder pinion, just pinions of different diameters,.....the different diameters of both pinion and Spurs, allow you to play with many gear ratio variations, and "fit" gears into many motor configurations.........eg, on your McLaren you could use........a 6.5mm pinion with a 15.5mm Spur,....a 5.5mm pinion with a 16.5mm Spur, or, a 7.5mm pinion with a 14.5mm Spur...(all these Spur sizes are available from MRSlotcar). The MRSlotcar gears are cut by Sonic, who has been making high end slotcar gears for decades,...their quality is better than the Chinese made gears, which virtually all plastic car manufacturers use. PS You can also play with varying size pinions and Spurs from Slot-it/NSR/SCaleauto etc. etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. 2 points
    Always ready to run down under , even if it means nicking the missuse retirement fund for postage will support , have slot car will travel
  6. 2 points
    I've been tied up each weekend with helping mum move her stuff now that she's sold her house but the stars align next Wednesday night for Round 7. I've put the word out to the local racers to see who's available. Will keep you posted on which track. Cheers Paul
  7. 1 point
    Give me a call when you are ready. I qualify as the “fella” but.
  8. 1 point
    I can be there to give a hand
  9. 1 point
    Give me a call Rossco if you need a lift 021 1749091
  10. 1 point
    We often read about these in the USA, but here’s a kiwi one. Many of the cars and motor bikes are already listed on Trade Me auction site for $1 reserve (for Oz and further away guys, that’s sort of a domestic EBay type site) And after just 3 days, some of the prices are eye watering. Vince - you’d need deep pockets for the 67 Mustang, already into 6 figures.
  11. 1 point
    From a slotcar perspective the only advantage to using hypoid gears is that they are designed to work with the rear axle above the centerline of the motor shaft, which for a given sized rear tire will lower the cg. Hypoid/bevelled gears were never really designed to be quieter, but rather they were designed for heavy industrial (high torque) applications where having the load spread across the entire face of the gear teeth was beneficial..........no slot car motors have that much torque, but, hypoid do have a place in slotcar racing due to the lowering of the cg. by raising the rear axle in relation to the motor shaft. They are also designed with a specific "offset" in mind,.....the teeth on a Slot-it "offset" contrate are cut to work best with the rear axle 1mm above the motor shaft, excessive deviations in the "offset" amount will result in poor/noisy mesh. So if your rear axle is level with the motor shaft (this only applies to inline motor configurations), and your gears are well installed, are in good shape, are close to ideal pitch (more on this in a moment) and the mesh is set correctly they will be whisper quiet. As all of the plastic car manufacturers play silly bugger with their pinions and Spurs (in simple terms they alter the tooth shape to fit more/less teeth on a fixed diameter) it is good to know what is the ideal tooth count for any given diameter, as , if too many teeth are added/subtracted, mesh issues occur, as at a point, the pitch has to change. So here is a "conversion thingie", that applies to all NSR/Slot-it/Scaleauto/MRSlotcar/Scaley gears. Take the diameter of the gear and multiply by 2, then minus 2. EG a 6.5mm pinion x 2 = 13 - 2 = 11T,..........for a 6.5mm diameter pinion an 11T is as close to .5 module as you will get,.....so "perfect" .5 module EG a 18mm Slot-it spur x 2 = 36 - 2 = 34,........."perfect" pitch for an 18mm spur is 34T You can deviate plus or minus 1T from "perfect" on a pinion without issues, and plus minus 2 teeth on a Spur before issues arise. Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker
  12. 1 point
    Hi Chris When covid hit it was just after a massive postal increase here in Oz, the cost to send 30 -40 cars around the world was way in the hundreds of dollars (don't forget all the cars have to be posted back individually as well) plus with covid nobody knew or could tell us what would happen locally, let a lone internationally, when a large box appears from a different country (how long would it be in quarantine or would it be released, the isolation from not being able to socialise also guys who didn't have a track to setup/test on. And as Vince has said money is still very tight for a lot of people plus you can't eat a slotcar, even the polished turds I don't know about the rest of Oz but in NSW we were in isolation for well over 18 months, traveling was restricted coupled with a few anti vax's made getting together rare if not risky. It's taken me well over 12 months to move across the country to my new place mostly due to boarder restrictions and covid numbers, but now that i'm finally here (3 weeks ago) i will be building new tracks once completely settled (wife has last say), one will defiantly be a rally track and with the amount of racers and interest in slotcars in general here in WA i don't think there will be a problem setting up another rally series of some sort. But at this stage the postage costs are still the biggest hurdle for a large proxy event, we will always be grateful to MJK for suppling the control tyres for all the WRP events which kept it on a close even playing field but the control tyres needed to be posted out before the event as well .......... it comes down to cost, so the only way to lessen the costs would be to have someone who's interested in slots who works in a courier/postal service, but i can't see that happening. Just have to wait and see what happens.
  13. 1 point
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