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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/15/2010 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  2. 4 points
    Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
  3. 4 points
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  4. 4 points
    This is a 3D printed starting point for a run of these in resin....dunno when but it has started.
  5. 4 points
    Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...
  6. 4 points
    Maserati 250F Caroll Shelby car finally finished. BRM and Mercedes W196 are next on the build list. [
  7. 4 points
    The Camaro restoration was going well, but then the Pandemic hit. The world's population was decimated and law and order went out the window. Those that were left had to scavenge and fend for themselves. Gangs roamed the wastelands taking what ever resources they wanted. Then the bodies started coming back to life...... It was time to head for the hills and live off the land... always wary - sleeping with one eye open....
  8. 4 points
    Here are a few pics of where my build is up to Just a little more work and then ready for paint Hope to be finished by end of next weekend Look forward to seeing all the finished builds
  9. 3 points
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  10. 3 points
    Some of you may have seen the pods Bingo from HBMRC club has been developing recently. This is his party, but as he hasn't yet begun a dedicated thread, I will get it started. This is the idea. Having driven ff050 sidewinders in the MR Slotcar McLaren F1 GTR when they came out, I was impressed with the tractability of a low powered, low profile motor in my favourite Sidewinder config. I badgered Paul until he got this underway, and has since presented me with a series of prototypes based on the CAD below He has printed these in PLA + They are very stiff, Paul has had to do a couple of tricks to reduce the risk of splitting along the printed layer lines. The pod he delivered tonight which I used has had a good try out. Tonight he dropped by a pair of pods fitted with a couple of motors. These are the two top pods pictured below. The bottom pod has a tiny ff030 motor fitted. One version of the ff050 pod takes 5.5mm pinion with 17.5mm spur or a 5mm pinion with 18mm spur, the other is for a 5.5mm pinion with 18mm spur. Small cars often have small OD wheels and the use of a 17.5mm spur just provides a little more ability to get track clearance with low profile wheel/tyre combos. Use with single inside flanged ball race, oilite or brass bush to retain maximum space for wheels. I actually fitted this one with a couple of nylon single sided bushes I had lying around from an unkown source. A decent, wide, brass bush would give more surface area for gluing in and avoid what I spilled with thin CYA.... ooops. The lower profile of the ff030 and ff050 enables these to fit under tray interiors that cannot accommodate a higher standard FC130 motor Working around the feeding trough call, I fitted the 5.5mm brass pinioned pod +18mm spur into a fairly well worked Sideways Capri, that had been running a standard Flat-6 angle-winder pod. I swapped over the same wheels/tyres at the bask I initially tried it 9:36, but it was just too low, so I switch to 9:32, and that felt a lot better. At the moment, the fiddle of getting the motor in place, with the power connection tags sticking out the end, means I had to hot glue it in place. I actually ran about 20 laps before I realised it was just sitting in place,and the direction of pinion turn, was all that was stopping it popping out.... This test bed car was running 5.5s in standard config. I quickly matched that with the ff050 motor which is 24.5k 95 g/cm torque, = 5.9 watts, versus the Flat-6 yellow which is 20,500 rpm 200 g/cm = 10.25 watts Those who regularly use low powered cars will know that a car which is tractable - easy to drive, will often match a much higher powered car with is a bit twitchy. But I got the Capri into the high 5.3s after a bit of body screw tweaking. I haven't touched the weight that was used to balance the original setup. I was able to do fairly consistent 5.4s and 5.5s. I have a few more adjustments for Paul to copy, which I created with a dremel.... Ahem... This pod is going to be quite useful. He is also working on inline versions for the ff050 and ff030, to suit very small cars.
  11. 3 points
    I originally built this to compete in the 2020 Tasman Proxy series, obviously with all that has happened that didn't happen so with the 2021 series being planned I thought it would be a nice thing to get the car finished, Just a couple of the car..... As in previous years the car features the FF050 motor with 9:24 off set SlotIt inline gears, Pauls tyres all round and all up it weighs in at around 55 grams. Initial testing saw the car lapping around my place at 4.7 or so which although a little off the pace from 2019 still fairly okay, hopefully further tidying up may see the car a tad quicker. Not too sure if this car will front the 2021 grid as I have a Ferrari 158 on the jig and that is now half done, Funny thing that once I got back onto the build I'm all refreshed and looking forward to getting the Ferrari done with a Honda RA271 also planned, Hope you like the pics Terry
  12. 3 points
    Got more scenery work done,dirt laid, grass down. Coming along.
  13. 3 points
    Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  14. 3 points
    https://imgur.com/a/umDJ3zf 3D printing these if anyone is interested. The internal diameter is 18mm
  15. 3 points
    Nice update and great to see Rosco on the pace and on the podium... I'll just leave this here
  16. 3 points
    Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  17. 3 points
    Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery of Caruso. Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat. Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol. Matt
  18. 3 points
    My car is ready for track testing Just need to paint and fit the inserts
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    I have made my decision and raise the arms of Capricorn and Crockett in victorious might as FuglyCool dual winners. Congratulations to both of you on your world class builds. The high master of FuglyCool will be along shortly.....oh yea, oh yea, hey nonny nay.
  21. 3 points
    This was the grid for the 1967 F1 proxy that was run in North America a couple of years ago........ The cars had to have competed in the 67 Championship year, and they were pre registered to avoid duplicate numbers. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of individual cars.........the ones I still have photos of !! Marc Tylers' (Immense Miniatures)....McLaren Andi Rowlands' (policar) Al Pease Eagle. David Mitchums' concours winning Ferrari....... And the series winner........as luck would have it , my Lotus 33......
  22. 3 points
  23. 2 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  24. 2 points
    Ok folk, bit more done..... car is now track ready.... as follows - Rear tyres glued with water based contact adhesive - then trued up. Radius made on outer tyre edges... Then I had some serious thinking to do - the front axle/wheels/tyres.... whether to true them up or not. In this model, the axle does not run in nylon bushes - but is pushed through a hole each side of the chassis - a bit of a disappointment. I had to decide on whether to remove a wheel - which I hate doing with platic wheels - or to cut into the chassis and remove the axle assembly intact... I chose to cut the chassis - and came up with a way which may prove useful to others who also do not want to pull wheels from axles.. I used a Dremel and cut a "keyhole" into the top of each side of the chassis. The axle was then able to be "sprung" out... intact. Not interfering with the circle chassis bush of the hole except for a small segment above the axle..... just enough to flex the chassis apart to free it.... With the axle out - I sanded off the black paint from the steel axle..... and loaded the assembly into my wheel truer... In this pic, you can see the small amount of cut-away in the chassis.... From the side... And here we have the front axle assembly in the machine - truing down the wheels and then tyres... again, gluing them to the wheels using water based contact adhesive. The front axle has been re-fitted and the chassis set up on the plate.... I have set the height of the front axle here.... and am about to make up some styrene card retainers for the inside of the chassis axle hole... On the plate - from the front.. In this pic, you can see that I have fabricated some axle retainers... in the same style as that cut into the chassis - except, they are mounted inverted. I used two laminations of 0.030" styrene card on each side... the axle "runs" in the hole .. which also lines up with that in the chassis - so, in effect - we have twice the thickness of plastic for the axle to use as a hard fitted bush.. With the axles, wheels and tyres all now set up on the plate - I now turn my attention to the terrible guide arrangement.. i simply don't like these "quick change" guides that Scalextric have taken a liking to use..... they flop all over the place... but, the saving grace is that the guide hole in the chassis is square to the set up plate.... so, we don't have to go and re-invent the post holder... pic.... And here is the top of the guide - you can see the molding pips in it - they result in a lot of the "wobble" these guides make .... but not all of it... In this pic, you can see that I've been in with some wet/dry and a rubbing block... removed the pips and left a nice flat turntable for the guide to pivot on... Next up - you can see the terrible amount of "post" that protrudes up through the post hole.... fitting the retaining screw leaves way too much clearance and the guide flops all over the place - up and down, tilting forward and back - and side to side...... I filed the top of the post so that the flat head of the retaining screw was an almost clearance free fit.... the guide now has barely any wobble or float in it.... I simply don't like this arrangement - but for club purposes - left it in there instead of replacing it with a Slot-It guide.... I detest the contact strips, which are sandwiched between the top of the braid and the turntable of the chassis.... Scalextric have completely lost the "KISS" principle here - but, I must say - it makes for quick changes of braid - not that any track owner should maintain their track so that people have to change braids often.... grrrrr And the Quick Change braid assembly..... it slides over the rear of the guide blade and pushes back once in position to retain it.... more room for things to "move" that should be firm and secure.... As stated, I don't like this - if anything can go wrong - it will.... and will usually do so at a critical opportunity. We can clearly see here the "sandwich" of the contact plate making contact with the top of the braid.... I much prefer the simple Slot-It alternative where an eyelet is pressed into the front of the guide.... and we have direct contact between the motor power lead and the braid.... The guide is now fitted to the chassis - and you can see that all five contact points (four tyres and braid) are all in the same plane on the set-up plate.. Ok, here's a little gem that I stole from my r/c helicopter hobby.... secret weapon for "lubricating" plastic on plastic....... 2B greylead pencil..... graphite, in short - but not in powder form... just a "wiping" of it on the mating surfaces. it neither attracts fluff/grit/crud nor goes hard... or ever seems to wear off..... it's lighter than can be measured and simply works a treat.... just "color in" the mating surfaces for a treat and forget option to any other form of lube... Ok - as far as I am prepared to go for now - the model is track ready.... I have run the motor with the model inverted for a few hours - and it now runs very sweetly indeed.. the first two hours were just at 3v... then a bit of up and down the register to 6V for the next hour whilst beavering away on another project. When I first ran the model on the bench, it took nearly 1.5V for the motor to turn the rear wheels.... after this bench running - it now begins to turn the rear wheels at just 0.5v and it will maintain that constant turning at this low voltage without any hesitation or fluctuation..... as stated, the next bit is to put some track together and give it a bedding in on its own four feet... And finally, we come to another secret weapon I employ - we go to an awful lot of effort to true up wheels and tyres.. then screw the model down onto the floor of a jewel case - not me! I make up some spacers to fit under the chassis - so that when the model is screwed down - the tyres are up and away from the floor of the case.... so too, the braid... I have yet to start applying Patto's decals - when I get my mitts on some Microsol and Microset (coming from WA, and the Isle of Wight at present).... So, for now - probably put this thread on hold until I have some more pix of the completed model - or, I get off my butt and put some track together... frats, Rosco
  25. 2 points
    Managed to get involved with todays discussions, great bunch of guys at the table of knowledge, i know it's early for us but if you get a chance to join in it's a great place to talk about anything and everything slotcar related, there's not a great difference between countries when it comes to setups as well.
  26. 2 points
    Part of the Shell Racing Team with Norm Beechey. Peter Manton Mini BRM 1/24 classic Mini white kit. Decals for both cars came from Pattos. A nice partner for the Chevy Nova I just need to find a 1/24 MKII Cortina now. I see also noted that The Parts Box does a HK Monaro - so will get one of those and do it up as well. I also picked up a Cavalier Models HT Monaro - so may look at re-popping and then doing the yellow Beechey Monaro cheers David
  27. 2 points
    Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
  28. 2 points
    I have been researching colours for an Aussie Mini to do a paint of a BRM white kit. I found a nice blue one that Peter Manton ran and during my research I found that Norm Beechey ran a Chevy Nova also in the blue. With some help from Auslot members I found a suitable blue. (Went for Duplicolor Blaze Blue - thanks Alan) Now all I need to find is a 1/24/1/25 MKII Cortina and I will be able to do the whole team. A friend had a AMT slot kit in need of a new home
  29. 2 points
    I was able to get more parts to make crowd control barriers so I made dozen of them in one sitting. I painted these light gray & then added "rubber" tips to the legs by dipping the ends in a drop of black acrylic paint. I'll make a few more of these up & list them on eBay if anyone wants them.
  30. 2 points
    Picked up this old Exclusiv 1/24 Carrera E-Type Jag not being a big fan of street slot cars I did some searching and found a chap raced his back in the mid 60s. A bit of a modification and some decals and here we have a sweet looking race car https://postimg.cc/F7tk8kmP
  31. 2 points
    For being "reasonably new to slot cars" you're doing great. ..... You're streets ahead in terms of IT and 3DP than I am and ever hope to be.
  32. 2 points
    Awesome night great racing...but I'm gutted! Munter , haven't seen him for (well lost count of the weeks) comes to the night with a grin from ear to ear, nice to see you too, races like he's never missed a night then goes home with a bigger grin and some liquid refreshments. What an absolute legend! Great to watch down to the last second
  33. 2 points
    Had a mate give me a 3D printed chassis. He had printed the chassis, guide and wheels to try out. Here's what I recieved. The chassis itself is printed with a swing arm/pivot point from just behind the motor. The wheels on it in this pic are from the cheap Avant Slot chassis's from a few years back. Not sure how well it will work, can always glue it in place to make the chassis stiffer. Here's the chassis fitted to a Mustang Supercar. The wheels are printed so you can glue your own inserts etc to it to create the hub for the tyre. Since I had some resin inserts I filed them down to fit and created wheels to suit the modern Supercars. (Sorry no pic at hand) I also cut up a resin wing from another car (BA Falcon I think) and made a wing which more resembles the Mustang. This is the prototype before being cast. And yeah, I painted the car up in the 2020 Shell McLaughlin livery. The 3D printed wheels were surprising true, although after I glued on the inserts to create the hub for the wheels I did true them on my tyre razor just to make sure. How's it run? Not sure yet, but will be taking it to Syd's track to give it a run, the 3D printed guide is to deep for my home Scalextric Sport layout. cheers Matt
  34. 2 points
    I had a non-tracked package arrive from the UK in under 10 days. When it arrived I was like what can this be - wasn't expecting anything from the UK
  35. 2 points
    OK pic's of your mini (s) My back yard in the mid 80's
  36. 2 points
    It just goes to show....we can leave slotcars but slotcars never leaves us
  37. 2 points
    Hiya All, Example for the next series of cars. Fixing a couple of areas, but should be ready very soon. (Engine and Mirrors can be printed separate, all Engine detail will be a little more reinforced) Paul (FC47 at HRW) is working on a 1/24 scale version, looking great so far. (I'll see if I can grab a few of his pics too) 1960's Formula 5000 Eagle (1/32, ZS layer height = 0.1mm Test print) Cheers NimROD
  38. 2 points
    Just converted these over ...... https://youtu.be/AOqql3cSzvM
  39. 2 points
    Thought you might like a couple pictures of my track. If interested I have a few of how it was built too routed 4 lane wood with hydro all cast mountains, used as one of our 12 club race tracks for about 4 years in current state my first attempt at scenery etc so quite happy
  40. 2 points
    Well, the FuglyCool winners fronted on a bitterly cold night to do a few parade laps in front of a drooling audience who a) marvelled at the skill and creative genius behind these two extraordinary builds and b) wondered how they beat the sheer magnificence of the mighty MetroJET to take out top honours. As an unbiased observer, I can tell you that these beauties are much, much better in the flesh than the pix on this forum suggest: ...and though neither of them had wings or a jet engine, it was an absolute joy seeing them circulate on my track. As always, winners are grinners... Perhaps, on reflection, I now understand why Munter gave these builds the nod. Both cars are ridiculously cool. But those builders??? Maybe that's where the Fugly came into play. Thanks again to everyone who has enjoyed this thread. It's game over. You can both stop clapping and sit down now.
  41. 2 points
    Cheers Crockett & congrats. I love how our similar ideas went in completely different directions. Awesome build. & thanks Munter for you kind words & thanks Mac for your generosity & for putting on another crazy build-off. Really enjoyed it. But we all know you are a Top Gun in our eyes...
  42. 2 points
    Despite my unrelenting ego being slapped into touch, and MetroJet being relegated to a mere 'also flew' , I want to add my congratulations to Crockett and Pat. Brilliant job boys. You've both done the Bay proud and I will have to work out prizes for you both seeing as there was only one Sideways car up for grabs. Thanks also to The Great Munter for his sharp judgement and sharper one liners. As the saying goes 'if you're going to be a bastard, you may as well be a good one ' It was a shame we didn't get more entries but that's 2020 FuglyCool done and dusted. Thank you lInesmen. Thank you ballboys.
  43. 2 points
    And a few more pics from me. Forgot to show the working roof hatch.
  44. 2 points
    I've finished this one and while I am happy with it there are heaps of areas I can improve on the next Commodore. The decals are a particular problem to do as they are the whole body and don't fit that well so they really need cutting out and possibly the stripes would be better painted. Patto makes the decals to suit his flexy bodies and that is fine for them and seeing these resin bodies are a very short run it couldn't be exoected he would make them to suit these too. Really not that big an issue as the fun in building the car was really what it is about. Munter makes some great resin bodies and I would have bought another 3 or 4 Commodores just to round out my grid a little more if he would make enough. Weight is around 110 grams with some lead added and I am hoping it is a good runner. I gave it a run a few weeks ago on Boslot's track with no weight in it and it was OK but still needed some sorting. Hopefully it is a little closer to being a good runner and I will give it a test this Friday night. The it will be packing all my stuff away to move house and get the man cave set up in the new house. I have Munters Dick Johnson Mustang next so I can't wait to get started on that. It will have a little more detail and a better interior. Anyway here are some photos of the finished Perkins car.
  45. 2 points
    The Holden LJ Torana Widowmaker is as done as it ever will be, was going to add more detail but just don't have the time now. Built this car to be my track the Blackwidow show
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    Just a couple of bits to tidy up and my car is ready for paint, should make a start on that today Will have it finished next weekend just in time for the deadline
  48. 2 points
    The jag ended up here. I was after the 'weekend racer' look so went with no decals. Nice wee runner. The rear wheel drive conversion helps no end. Lockdown's now pretty much unlocked over here, so I guess this is the last of these COVID builds. Thanks for looking; you crazy kids.
  49. 2 points
    Hi Rosco, If you are planning on moving the axle forward (3.5mm) in order to have the motor shaft control the lateral movement of the Crown, you may want to consider the following.........in right hand corners the lateral movement of the axle lets the motor shaft rub on the left hand side of the Crown slot....in this instance the motor shaft is spinning in the opposite direction to the Crown, causing friction, and is the main reason you frequently see bronze/brass particles in this area. While lubricating the crown slot/motor shaft helps, it does not eliminate the fact that the motor shaft/crown are rotating in different direction, when they touch in right hand corners. It is best to control lateral axle movement/mesh with axle spacers,.....and,.....although it is a pain, it is best to use these spacers on either side of the Crown, inboard of the rear bushings..........this eliminates any mesh issues should the wheels move (in or out) on the axle, which invariably happens. Stay Safe Chris Walker I have used a mix of different thickness spacers (you can't see the .005 ones) to control mesh/lash in both directions,....the mesh stays constant, and eliminates any motor shaft interference......more consistent, smoother (faster) performance, and, your gears will last forever
  50. 2 points
    Perhaps, just perhaps, I am your arch enemy.
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