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  1. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  2. 5 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  3. 5 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  4. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  5. 4 points
    Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
  6. 4 points
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  7. 4 points
    This is a 3D printed starting point for a run of these in resin....dunno when but it has started.
  8. 4 points
    Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...
  9. 4 points
    Maserati 250F Caroll Shelby car finally finished. BRM and Mercedes W196 are next on the build list. [
  10. 4 points
    The Camaro restoration was going well, but then the Pandemic hit. The world's population was decimated and law and order went out the window. Those that were left had to scavenge and fend for themselves. Gangs roamed the wastelands taking what ever resources they wanted. Then the bodies started coming back to life...... It was time to head for the hills and live off the land... always wary - sleeping with one eye open....
  11. 4 points
    Here are a few pics of where my build is up to Just a little more work and then ready for paint Hope to be finished by end of next weekend Look forward to seeing all the finished builds
  12. 3 points
    I have been working on several projects in parallel making it impossible to finish any of them for some time.Here is the first one completed (well inserts are missing) ,3dp printed chassis and motor pod for Renault R8 SCX
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  15. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  16. 3 points
    New chassis Ford Focus WRC SCX
  17. 3 points
    Sometimes even old Auslot gets some scoop information and this one is an Aussie ripper. At the time one of the most hated race cars in Australia as it hurt our poor little feelings when the thoroughbred Nissan Skyline GTR beat our own Holden Commodore and England's Ford Sierra but now an icon in it's own right. Ah the good old days when racing cars looked like road cars with stickers. Thanks Mauricio for thinking of us and Armchair Racer for the scoop information. No release date yet but keep your eyes and wallets open for this one as I have already put in my order.
  18. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  19. 3 points
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  20. 3 points
    Some of you may have seen the pods Bingo from HBMRC club has been developing recently. This is his party, but as he hasn't yet begun a dedicated thread, I will get it started. This is the idea. Having driven ff050 sidewinders in the MR Slotcar McLaren F1 GTR when they came out, I was impressed with the tractability of a low powered, low profile motor in my favourite Sidewinder config. I badgered Paul until he got this underway, and has since presented me with a series of prototypes based on the CAD below He has printed these in PLA + They are very stiff, Paul has had to do a couple of tricks to reduce the risk of splitting along the printed layer lines. The pod he delivered tonight which I used has had a good try out. Tonight he dropped by a pair of pods fitted with a couple of motors. These are the two top pods pictured below. The bottom pod has a tiny ff030 motor fitted. One version of the ff050 pod takes 5.5mm pinion with 17.5mm spur or a 5mm pinion with 18mm spur, the other is for a 5.5mm pinion with 18mm spur. Small cars often have small OD wheels and the use of a 17.5mm spur just provides a little more ability to get track clearance with low profile wheel/tyre combos. Use with single inside flanged ball race, oilite or brass bush to retain maximum space for wheels. I actually fitted this one with a couple of nylon single sided bushes I had lying around from an unkown source. A decent, wide, brass bush would give more surface area for gluing in and avoid what I spilled with thin CYA.... ooops. The lower profile of the ff030 and ff050 enables these to fit under tray interiors that cannot accommodate a higher standard FC130 motor Working around the feeding trough call, I fitted the 5.5mm brass pinioned pod +18mm spur into a fairly well worked Sideways Capri, that had been running a standard Flat-6 angle-winder pod. I swapped over the same wheels/tyres at the bask I initially tried it 9:36, but it was just too low, so I switch to 9:32, and that felt a lot better. At the moment, the fiddle of getting the motor in place, with the power connection tags sticking out the end, means I had to hot glue it in place. I actually ran about 20 laps before I realised it was just sitting in place,and the direction of pinion turn, was all that was stopping it popping out.... This test bed car was running 5.5s in standard config. I quickly matched that with the ff050 motor which is 24.5k 95 g/cm torque, = 5.9 watts, versus the Flat-6 yellow which is 20,500 rpm 200 g/cm = 10.25 watts Those who regularly use low powered cars will know that a car which is tractable - easy to drive, will often match a much higher powered car with is a bit twitchy. But I got the Capri into the high 5.3s after a bit of body screw tweaking. I haven't touched the weight that was used to balance the original setup. I was able to do fairly consistent 5.4s and 5.5s. I have a few more adjustments for Paul to copy, which I created with a dremel.... Ahem... This pod is going to be quite useful. He is also working on inline versions for the ff050 and ff030, to suit very small cars.
  21. 3 points
    I originally built this to compete in the 2020 Tasman Proxy series, obviously with all that has happened that didn't happen so with the 2021 series being planned I thought it would be a nice thing to get the car finished, Just a couple of the car..... As in previous years the car features the FF050 motor with 9:24 off set SlotIt inline gears, Pauls tyres all round and all up it weighs in at around 55 grams. Initial testing saw the car lapping around my place at 4.7 or so which although a little off the pace from 2019 still fairly okay, hopefully further tidying up may see the car a tad quicker. Not too sure if this car will front the 2021 grid as I have a Ferrari 158 on the jig and that is now half done, Funny thing that once I got back onto the build I'm all refreshed and looking forward to getting the Ferrari done with a Honda RA271 also planned, Hope you like the pics Terry
  22. 3 points
    Got more scenery work done,dirt laid, grass down. Coming along.
  23. 3 points
    Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  24. 3 points
    https://imgur.com/a/umDJ3zf 3D printing these if anyone is interested. The internal diameter is 18mm
  25. 3 points
    It just goes to show....we can leave slotcars but slotcars never leaves us
  26. 3 points
    Nice update and great to see Rosco on the pace and on the podium... I'll just leave this here
  27. 3 points
    Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  28. 3 points
    Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery of Caruso. Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat. Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol. Matt
  29. 3 points
    My car is ready for track testing Just need to paint and fit the inserts
  30. 3 points
    Just converted these over ...... https://youtu.be/AOqql3cSzvM
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    Thought you might like a couple pictures of my track. If interested I have a few of how it was built too routed 4 lane wood with hydro all cast mountains, used as one of our 12 club race tracks for about 4 years in current state my first attempt at scenery etc so quite happy
  33. 3 points
    I have made my decision and raise the arms of Capricorn and Crockett in victorious might as FuglyCool dual winners. Congratulations to both of you on your world class builds. The high master of FuglyCool will be along shortly.....oh yea, oh yea, hey nonny nay.
  34. 3 points
    This was the grid for the 1967 F1 proxy that was run in North America a couple of years ago........ The cars had to have competed in the 67 Championship year, and they were pre registered to avoid duplicate numbers. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of individual cars.........the ones I still have photos of !! Marc Tylers' (Immense Miniatures)....McLaren Andi Rowlands' (policar) Al Pease Eagle. David Mitchums' concours winning Ferrari....... And the series winner........as luck would have it , my Lotus 33......
  35. 3 points
  36. 2 points
    Hoping a dulux tune up will shave time off my lap times! Was a white body version
  37. 2 points
    Hi folks, I have posted on a different forum my latest work in miniaturising digital slot car decoders. And thought I should post a quick summary here too. As a hobbyist venture I have built functioning SSD-compatible digital decoders with dimensions of 10.8mm by 5.4mm. The thickness is 4.4mm. The decoders have motor/brake circuits and change lanes and count laps on SSD. I am now working on smaller designs... next a 8mm x 5mm design... then smaller still c [my handle on slotform is Dr_C... but not everyone likes doctors including me ... so renamed myself as c-type... after my favourite racing jag]
  38. 2 points
    Well, this is an older topic that I thought was worth a comment on in current circumstances. I for one, am very thankful that forums such as this still exist. In the wake of F Books bully boy tactics in this country I am certainly re-considering my need for it being a part of my life anymore, and I'll wager quite a few others are in the same boat. If this means a return to a higher level of interest in this style of discussion group, then that would be a very good thing. Thanks to all who continue this platform.
  39. 2 points
    Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been. I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried. For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together. The tyres are MJK 4272. The wheel specs are - overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E") rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C) Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D) Step width - 3.0 mm (F) Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm Hub diameter - 5.0 mm Hub width - 3.0 mm Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm Ok.. some pix... It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre. I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap..... I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool. Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert.. The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model. Few pix... just messing around.. And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width. Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis... I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues... Until next... frats, Rosco
  40. 2 points
    Ok folk, Wasn't happy with first grille - 0.42 mm brass is too thick. Not to mention, when I was doing my final file/sand - four of the verticals inside the grille fell out... I got them all back in, but it's a mongrel of a job to do... fiddly as all heck. I think in my mind then, I was already working on revision 1 - and a better way of cutting the parts and assembling them.. I found some 0.25 mm brass shim sheet and decided I'd have a go at cutting the 12 pieces needed out of that. This time, I decided that I'd fit the verticals in from the rear. The issue with doing so from the front is that the excess has to be sanded off - and any of these bars which did not get soldered properly to the horizontals will simply fall out when the main body is removed.... which I found out. So - some pix... Here is the 0.25 mm brass shim marked out through some engineer's "blue". I have used a jeweller's saw to slit the verticals. In future, should I ever do this again - I will be more precise with the slits. It was during assembly that I realised some of them weren't straight - and I had to fit them into a vice and re-slit them. All but two were rectified. As you will see in later pix, two of them simply refused to go in where needed, resulting in the upper horizontal not running parallel with the rest in two places. I am not going to disassemble this to correct it, and will have to live with it - the next one will be more accurate. We have cut out the 12 parts. You can see that I have left the excess on the front of the horizontals - this is for positioning into slits in a wooden jig I made... to get the rake of the grille correct. In this pic, we can see the horizontals fitted into the slits of the jig.... and the depth of the slits to set the rake... And here we have the assembled grill - complete with Holden badge. It was a bit tricky to make that little piece up. I ended up using a pair of surgical clamp pliers to hold it whilst I profiled the shape. It is angled back each side from centre and there is a slight bevel on all edges. Getting it to solder in place took considerable time, effort and patience - I don't know ho many times I re-positioned it, only to find it wasn't either centre, square on to the front of the model or set far enough back.. but, I got there... And here we have the original and revision 1... I believe it well worth the effort to use the 1/4 mm shim sheet.... I'm pretty happy with the result, but disappointed in those two upper sections not being parallel to the other horizontals.... next time... To change ends of the model - I am re-working the rear... I have re-profiled the rear number plate and removed the front one altogether - as was the case with PB's Bathurst car. I will fill those unsightly gouges I put into the tail-lights somewhat with thinned down putty.. and straighten them up. This will leave them picked out, but not as deep. I am hoping to paint around the trim of these with as close a paint as I can get to chrome... I have also started work on the front - it's not quite right.... mainly the height of the bonnet and guards at front... and also the headlight surround areas... I have filed and sanded these down and am struggling to get the exact profile using putty.. I'll get close, but I fear the casting has the surrounds set too far forward to get the slightly "hooded" look over the headlights ... I should get a lot closer than the casting... but don't believe I'll get exact to the proto-type.. and I really don't want to make up a new "face" to fit.... I believe the grille and these little "adjustments" will bring the model pretty close to proto - but any Torana owner/enthusiast will more than likely pick my failures... So, this model is about to go into its second year on my workbench... from experience, whether it's a locomotive or slot car - my scratch building seems to take me around three months of actual work... we haven't got near the chassis yet - my lathe still awaits attention to fit the replacement spindle bearings... maybe when I get colour onto the body - we'll go to the lathe next... although I have two locomotives on my bench awaiting attention as well.... Don't retire, folk - you won't have time to spare..... frats, Rosco
  41. 2 points
    Day 5 29th Dec 2020Programming PCB.The F1 car chip has 4 tiny pads for programming to save space. To quickly align the programming pins a custom set up is manufactured to not only make sure programming is fast and easy but also reliable.Here’s the PCB that John designed. The files have been sent off to a company that specialises in rapid turn around PCBs only.John will add a few components by hand here.Day 6 onwards will be a waiting game.
  42. 2 points
    I have a 3 LED section of these lights in each of my pit garages... I'm sure there's enough light here to be picked up by the sensors!
  43. 2 points
    Ok folk, bit more done..... car is now track ready.... as follows - Rear tyres glued with water based contact adhesive - then trued up. Radius made on outer tyre edges... Then I had some serious thinking to do - the front axle/wheels/tyres.... whether to true them up or not. In this model, the axle does not run in nylon bushes - but is pushed through a hole each side of the chassis - a bit of a disappointment. I had to decide on whether to remove a wheel - which I hate doing with platic wheels - or to cut into the chassis and remove the axle assembly intact... I chose to cut the chassis - and came up with a way which may prove useful to others who also do not want to pull wheels from axles.. I used a Dremel and cut a "keyhole" into the top of each side of the chassis. The axle was then able to be "sprung" out... intact. Not interfering with the circle chassis bush of the hole except for a small segment above the axle..... just enough to flex the chassis apart to free it.... With the axle out - I sanded off the black paint from the steel axle..... and loaded the assembly into my wheel truer... In this pic, you can see the small amount of cut-away in the chassis.... From the side... And here we have the front axle assembly in the machine - truing down the wheels and then tyres... again, gluing them to the wheels using water based contact adhesive. The front axle has been re-fitted and the chassis set up on the plate.... I have set the height of the front axle here.... and am about to make up some styrene card retainers for the inside of the chassis axle hole... On the plate - from the front.. In this pic, you can see that I have fabricated some axle retainers... in the same style as that cut into the chassis - except, they are mounted inverted. I used two laminations of 0.030" styrene card on each side... the axle "runs" in the hole .. which also lines up with that in the chassis - so, in effect - we have twice the thickness of plastic for the axle to use as a hard fitted bush.. With the axles, wheels and tyres all now set up on the plate - I now turn my attention to the terrible guide arrangement.. i simply don't like these "quick change" guides that Scalextric have taken a liking to use..... they flop all over the place... but, the saving grace is that the guide hole in the chassis is square to the set up plate.... so, we don't have to go and re-invent the post holder... pic.... And here is the top of the guide - you can see the molding pips in it - they result in a lot of the "wobble" these guides make .... but not all of it... In this pic, you can see that I've been in with some wet/dry and a rubbing block... removed the pips and left a nice flat turntable for the guide to pivot on... Next up - you can see the terrible amount of "post" that protrudes up through the post hole.... fitting the retaining screw leaves way too much clearance and the guide flops all over the place - up and down, tilting forward and back - and side to side...... I filed the top of the post so that the flat head of the retaining screw was an almost clearance free fit.... the guide now has barely any wobble or float in it.... I simply don't like this arrangement - but for club purposes - left it in there instead of replacing it with a Slot-It guide.... I detest the contact strips, which are sandwiched between the top of the braid and the turntable of the chassis.... Scalextric have completely lost the "KISS" principle here - but, I must say - it makes for quick changes of braid - not that any track owner should maintain their track so that people have to change braids often.... grrrrr And the Quick Change braid assembly..... it slides over the rear of the guide blade and pushes back once in position to retain it.... more room for things to "move" that should be firm and secure.... As stated, I don't like this - if anything can go wrong - it will.... and will usually do so at a critical opportunity. We can clearly see here the "sandwich" of the contact plate making contact with the top of the braid.... I much prefer the simple Slot-It alternative where an eyelet is pressed into the front of the guide.... and we have direct contact between the motor power lead and the braid.... The guide is now fitted to the chassis - and you can see that all five contact points (four tyres and braid) are all in the same plane on the set-up plate.. Ok, here's a little gem that I stole from my r/c helicopter hobby.... secret weapon for "lubricating" plastic on plastic....... 2B greylead pencil..... graphite, in short - but not in powder form... just a "wiping" of it on the mating surfaces. it neither attracts fluff/grit/crud nor goes hard... or ever seems to wear off..... it's lighter than can be measured and simply works a treat.... just "color in" the mating surfaces for a treat and forget option to any other form of lube... Ok - as far as I am prepared to go for now - the model is track ready.... I have run the motor with the model inverted for a few hours - and it now runs very sweetly indeed.. the first two hours were just at 3v... then a bit of up and down the register to 6V for the next hour whilst beavering away on another project. When I first ran the model on the bench, it took nearly 1.5V for the motor to turn the rear wheels.... after this bench running - it now begins to turn the rear wheels at just 0.5v and it will maintain that constant turning at this low voltage without any hesitation or fluctuation..... as stated, the next bit is to put some track together and give it a bedding in on its own four feet... And finally, we come to another secret weapon I employ - we go to an awful lot of effort to true up wheels and tyres.. then screw the model down onto the floor of a jewel case - not me! I make up some spacers to fit under the chassis - so that when the model is screwed down - the tyres are up and away from the floor of the case.... so too, the braid... I have yet to start applying Patto's decals - when I get my mitts on some Microsol and Microset (coming from WA, and the Isle of Wight at present).... So, for now - probably put this thread on hold until I have some more pix of the completed model - or, I get off my butt and put some track together... frats, Rosco
  44. 2 points
    Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
  45. 2 points
    I have been researching colours for an Aussie Mini to do a paint of a BRM white kit. I found a nice blue one that Peter Manton ran and during my research I found that Norm Beechey ran a Chevy Nova also in the blue. With some help from Auslot members I found a suitable blue. (Went for Duplicolor Blaze Blue - thanks Alan) Now all I need to find is a 1/24/1/25 MKII Cortina and I will be able to do the whole team. A friend had a AMT slot kit in need of a new home
  46. 2 points
    Awesome night great racing...but I'm gutted! Munter , haven't seen him for (well lost count of the weeks) comes to the night with a grin from ear to ear, nice to see you too, races like he's never missed a night then goes home with a bigger grin and some liquid refreshments. What an absolute legend! Great to watch down to the last second
  47. 2 points
    Might be an idea Kevan to find out what Alexis is thinking rather than other people trying to take things over, after all HE is the organiser of this already long drawn out 2020 IPS , so Alexis we await your thoughts
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
    I would advise Armchair Racer immediately of this situation so they can raise a complaint with their courier. Interesting you say that AusPost sent your parcel to another suburb and completely different address. Mine last week was dropped off to the local computer store across the road... I was like WTF.. I was home expecting the delivery as per AusPost text about coming parcel. If I and the shop were not so honest, I could have made a claim against Australia Post for non delivery of parcel which was insured for substantial amount. Lazy bastards still have the balls to price gouge on shipping costs then they can't even deliver it to the correctly addressed address. I have lodged a formal complaint against Australia Post with the ACCC and Australia Post complaints department, basically this is considered fraudulent behaviour by the ACCC, charging for a service that is not being provided. I suggest and recommend that everyone that has had similar occur also report this.
  50. 2 points
    Perhaps, just perhaps, I am your arch enemy.
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