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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/02/2021 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  3. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  4. 4 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  5. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  6. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  7. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  8. 3 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added some slide in background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  9. 3 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  10. 3 points
    Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Agreed. I was quite the Nissan fan in the day. Perhaps Slot.it can do a VL SS Commodore? They can go chassis economy mode and also do the VK and VL Walkinshaw, all of which have European liveries to go with the multitude of Australian liveries. Now that era of Holden I would like to see. Those would sell well here in Aus.
  13. 2 points
    Direction: Yes, slot motors are directional, but not by design, just errors introduced by cheap manufacture. Most RTR cars run the motors clockwise. NSR are untypical that they run the king motors anti clockwise. Get a laser tachometer and test your motors, then install them in cars that are making the best use of any timing bias that exists in the motor. Orientation: Motors ARE often often designed to have an installation orientation, closed can side up or open can side up (see slot.it flatsix motor) Refer to DiSCA digital slot car for an example of rules designed to mimic the behaviour of the full size cars based on orientation. Refer to NSR's International GT3 rules . You will see that the orientation is specified by a red dot on the motor. The reasoning behind formalising the orientation, is that (on a track with steel rails or magnabraid) the motor orientation has an impact on magnetic downforce available from the flux leakage from the motor. Again, if your rules permit , figure out which side is sucking harder in the track and Install the motor to make the best of that. Alan
  14. 2 points
    We were supposed to round this round last week but circumstances etc. This coming Sunday, 1pm local time on Dave's track. It's another power track, suits the cars with boxer motors. Cheers Paul
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    I call painting "not fun at all" which is why I have 50 spools of different color filament and a multi-color printer. ;-)
  17. 2 points
    A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
  18. 2 points
    Saw this running last night. Supercool. Stance is spot on. Nice one, Pat.
  19. 2 points
    Toy Brands V's Professional Slot Racing Car
  20. 2 points
    Ya gotta be happy with that
  21. 2 points
    CA49a Nissan GT-R n.23 24h Spa 2018 available to the world market.
  22. 2 points
    The Toyota 86C part number CA41d - n.35 Fuji 1000 Km 1986 from every angle. On sale soon.
  23. 2 points
    tried to get an overhead view
  24. 2 points
    Hi Guys We haven't seen any videos or numbers for a while, so I thought I would do some numbers based on the data we have. So about the only thing I came up with is an efficiency percentage, based on laps you have done in the race and a theoretical lap score (TLS) based on the your fastest lap time e.g for 32coupe laps 60.43 fastest lap 5.623 So from that we can find a theoretical lap score (TLS), The time of the race 360 sec is divided by fastest lap 360/5.623 = 64.02 so then you can divide the actual laps by the TLS in this case 60.43 / 64.02 = .944 or 94.4% so here's the list Name Laps fastest lap TLS Efficiency percentage 32coupe 60.44 5.623 64.02 94.4% Sports Racer 59.88 5.666 63.54 94.24% Alvaro 59.84 5.682 63.36 94.44% Brooksy 57.97 6.014 59.86 96.84% Nev 56.57 5.851 61.53 91.16% DP201 56.09 5.983 60.17 93.22% old man 55.85 5.964 60.48 91.22% Lancelot 55.35 6.004 59.96 92.18% jimmyslots 55.27 5.964 60.36 91.56% Peter Gunn 54.47 5.903 60.99 89.32% bov 54.02 5.895 61.07 88.46% ArroldN 53.82 6.233 57.76 93.18% Dixie 53.60 6.143 58.60 94.46% Supercharged 53.54 5.973 60.27 88.75% sticks 53.20 6.078 59.23 89.82% Aloha 52.35 6.200 58.06 90.16% JohnnieE 51.54 6.109 58.93 87.46% Nonfractal 51.27 6.390 56.74 91.00% Shaynus 51.06 6.347 56.79 90.00% ALS 50.84 6.485 55.52 91.58% Pespsi62 50.70 6.454 55.78 90.89% curef99 50.10 6.652 54.11 92.57% BARacer 49.11 6.318 56.98 86.19% BrumosRSR 48.02 6.322 56.94 84.64% I hope is helpful
  25. 2 points
    Thanks Greg, here's the links to the items Miners Cottage Windmill Water Tank Enlarging the Cottage from HO to 1/32nd made all the wall dimensions thicker, so i used tinkercad to make the inside walls and base thinner, mainly to save on print time, even so it still took over 30 hours for all the items to be printed.
  26. 2 points
    Our club was suppose to start racing a new class for Slotit Nissan Skyline R32s, but the Auckland lockdown has put paid to that, likely it will become a New Year class now. I thought I would have plenty of time to complete some projects but these two took me a month and a half to finish! Figuring there would be alot of Calsonic and Bathurst duplicate liveries appearing, I wanted something more unique but easy to paint. While technically fantasy liveries, they will hopefully still look the part. I'm hoping these cars will prompt the other club members to hurry up and prep their Skylines. I found the Tamiya Floro red paint is deadly on white, if you haven't masked stuff properly and sealed every nook, cranny and edge. Also pays to let it dry more than 2 days before clear coating it, otherwise it runs . - OrakeiRacer
  27. 2 points
  28. 1 point
    So after racing for a while, the corners circled were giving us grief, upset the cars too much and as such, Col decided to change them to make the lane more appealing, should be much better
  29. 1 point
    Outstanding! From a great print to a spectacular finish, Beautiful Build Mate, Love it Cheers NimROD
  30. 1 point
    Forgot to mention - main issue with them was the roll bar mounts.. they didn't line up and had to be re-drilled. Also, you'll notice with "purple" it cants forward.. this was another model error.... with "blue", I did quite a bit of filing to the front of the engine which allowed me to move the bar vertical. I had to cajole away a bit of engine and body underneath to get the float. As it came in the kit (and also the Elvis car) the motor fouls the body from full float... The wheel inserts all needed sanding down... they were too tight a fit into the hubs... tricky job, to get them to run true... I used clear nail polish to keep them in splace... applying the polish to the inside of the hub rather than on the insert. This way, the insert pushes the polish into the hub as it enters.... painting the stuff onto the insert causes the polish to build up and spread over the outside of the hubs and tyres... again, "blue" got the benefit of learning from that exercise. The roll bar support fits into a slot in the roll bar and at the other end, it goes into the motor... it's not quite right and a bit of argy needs doing to get the bar vertical... blue won over purple here. The motor parts went together well. The main block is airbrushed in SMS "stainless". The fittings are Molotow - as are the roll bar and mirror. I also used it on the gearshift linkage, but used Tamiya "rubber black" on the steering wheel rim and gear knob.... "rubber black" is my go to for such things - it really tricks up detail. With "Elvis" - I noted the join lines around the model... I didn't want those.... and used Tamiya putty in assembly. It brought a much better end finish to the model... I was a little disappointed in "Elvis"... so very well finished, I'd have expected them to have gone that little more and make the result brilliant - rather than excellent... picky, I know...... "Elvis" is a great looking model - the decals are simply stunning. The headlight assembly is quite tricky to assemble... but it looks amazing. On my LJ XU-1, I have cut some small discs of styrene card and painted them in Molotow chrome. With the Elva's and also T70 Lola - I tried to paint Molotow on the rear of the headlight lenses.... it didn't work - and left them satin silver. My plan for the XU-1 is to fit the small styrene discs to the rear of the lens... and use "canopy glue" to secure them. Gluing around the discs once in place. This should negate the dulling of the Molotow yet will securely fasten them to the rear of the lens..... I'll post this up on the LJ thread once done. That little model is nearly done - but I'm having issues with the interior. I can make use of a lot more room in there and it seems wasted to fit the almost flat tray just below the windows line... I am looking for a head for Peter Brock... any suggestions? I'll put something up on the Mr Slotcar McLaren M6a soon... the paint I used is simply stunning.... SMS "black hole" colour shift - first time for me, and it went down very easily - I was expecting issues with laying it, but it was fairly straight forward... I used SMS "super black" underneath - this brought more of the blue/purple out - using a white base would have brought more of the orange... which is pretty much dormant over "super black"... I'm in the mixing stage for another model - a Revo-slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit. My daughter wants this sprayed in "metallic teal"... which is simply not available. Scott at SMS (this bloke backs his small private company by hard advice) suggested I spray "pearl white" as a base and either top coat with "spearmint green" or "ice blue".... then over coat that with "clear aqua"... we are messing around on plastic spoons at present - getting close, but I believe I'll end up making up a mix of my own using the suggested colours... as done with "blue" Elva. I seriously suggest and promote SMS paints - as in a separate thread. The "premium" range is perfect for airbrushing straight out of the bottle. The "advance" range can be hand brushed or thinned at 1:1 with thinners. All of them are true acrylic laquers... not the soft and pliable psuedo acrylic that Tamiya use... I have found it leaves fingerprint imprints in it even after weeks of pulling down - SMS has not done this. Further, top coating with 2K "ultra clear".. simply stunning... make it as "deep" as you wish.. or just a light coat to maintain a more lifelike finish. Ok.. think that covers the Elva's... great model - looking forward to seeing them do some laps. "Elvis" is a shelf queen.. it won't see a track but join company with a very small number of others that I want to keep as collector cars.... one of the A9-X's is on this shelf as well..... lead by six laps, and set the track record on the last lap of the 1,000 km race - what a weapon! frats, Rosco
  31. 1 point
    Ok folk, bump.... been a while on this thread. Cooper #2 returned from this year's Tasman Cup proxy series.. didn't get a podium, but was awarded the John Smedley constructors award... chuffed. Sadly, there is quite a bit of paint damage - not down to running in the series, but issues with Tamiya surfacer/primer. It showed up a lots of lateral cracks across the body - I believed it may have been the Humbrol cleer cote (note spelling), but such was not the case. I started rubbing it down and it wasn't long before I found that the issue was deep... way deep - at primer level. The Tamiya colour coats were fine - but the primer fragmented below them... the cracks making their way to the top.... I have now rubbed back the body to bare resin and am now using SMS paints... so far, three coats of white primer/surfacer and two rub backs... I have airbrushed a mix of three different SMS paint colours to get the gold of Tamiya.. and are pretty happy with it. I ended up using a mix of Inca Gold, Rich Gold, Super Silver and some Yellow to get as close as I could to Tamiya Titan Gold.. I'll use SMS white this time and finally overcoat everything with SMS 2K Ultra Clear.... that stuff is simply amazing - such depth and flow-out. Ok, will have some pix soon... big job, it was easier the first time around without the driver, cockpit and windshield in situ.. As rubbed back to resin... frats, Rosco
  32. 1 point
    Found this Youtube clip which is quite a laugh. Wish I'd painted the door cards beige now.
  33. 1 point
    Too good, and sidewinder to boot.
  34. 1 point
    Mate, Tricky Dicky would love that. I know I do. I can see Greens Tuf next. Regards Mark
  35. 1 point
    You need to write a book on The Definitive Guide to Slot Car Modifications. I'd buy a copy. Cheers Paul
  36. 1 point
    I can see the credit card getting another hiding.
  37. 1 point
    1/32 SRT Viper GTS-R version RS Line SuperSport We continue with the most racing range with two versions of the Viper Exchange participating in the 24H Daytona 2015. Fastest and most efficient mechanical setup on track!
  38. 1 point
    Sideways GT3/E menu in progress and coming soon LBH GT3 SWCAR01 FGT GTE SWCAR02 M6 GT3 SWCAR03 720S GT3 SWCAR04 ASV GT3/E SWCAR05 BC UK GT3 SWCAR06 RCF Japan GT3 SWCAR07
  39. 1 point
    As I grow older my eyes are getting worse I use a trick that a mate used at a National event to check the number of teeth,he takes a picture with his mobile phone & blows it up.Too easy Cheers Jimmy
  40. 1 point
    Hahahaha doubt if you will be able to do that BARacer, look think we all want to have some fun and be competative , been doing proxy racing for round about 12 years now and in that time met some great helpful people who really helped me get along with it. Never aimed to win as it,s very hard to do against seasoned drivers and cars in their own enviroment , but have managed to put out reasonable cars that might give me a go of a podium or two, Proxy racing is no longer the force it was , not so long ago we had the OZ rally, Tasman, ATCC, and the WRP which alone had 40 odd entries but like every thing people loose interest , sometimes it is because they can't see any light at the end of the tunnel, some get bored , and find they just can't build competative cars. There was Alexis and the IPS proxy in my opinion one of the best again over 40 entries and it was really good to see your car one month in Oz then Scotland, Greece, Wales e.t.c and Canada , we had regular updates , pictures comments on all the cars from the venue's and the racing was really good , like all venues some strange drivers but you learned to build cars others could drive, you never stop learning. Paul and myself had great competition around 3 years ago in this proxy when that went wider a field we both ran similat Merc's and it was nip and tuck but always good humoured fun really looked forward to where each of us were, things have changed now , as i have said these proxies have been waining before Covid and the usual one's are no longer running due to this and as i have said costs involved, and times they are a changing my friend. Over the pond there are a few interesting proxy racing series like the 997 Porsche i though i would have a go at this year , another learning curve , knew i could build smooth well handling cars but once again i am finding lack of straight line pace affects my lap time not by a lot as that proxy has a lot of very competative cars in it think a couple of tenths cover around 15 cars most races, but i have picked up in the comments from each venue useful info to improve the car this time i know i need to change the motor, to use the one which is doing well overall so far , as i have found that motor is actually running better here on my track than my entry , so that is another learning curve. My time is drawing to a close what with health issues and i suppose getting a bit bored with the length some proxy's take to run, understand that people who run them put a lot in to making theas things happen and have always tried to support them even those miles away , as without the support there will not be enough entrants to actually run them , not much fun having no REAL competition to improves your skills
  41. 1 point
    on offset gears, Put the same color paint dot as the regular gears.
  42. 1 point
    Finally, completed a couple of period signs last night to install in the appropriate locations: http://
  43. 1 point
    That came out really well, now to rubber up. Enjoy.
  44. 1 point
    DM the lap times increased after running the silicons because the car had Less grip. It was run on the Electric Dreams track.
  45. 1 point
    Race results and finishing order. Name Round 2 Laps Round 2 Lap Time Lap time last year Round 2 Points 32coupe 60.43 5.623 5.886 25 Sports Racer 59.88 5.666 5.651 24 Alvaro 59.84 5.682 6.012 23 Brooksy 57.97 6.014 22 Nev 56.57 5.851 21 DP201 56.09 5.983 5.982 20 old man 55.85 5.952 19 lancelot 55.35 6.004 6.165 18 jimmyslots 1950 55.27 5.964 5.914 17 Peter Gunn 54.47 5.903 5.876 16 bov 54.02 5.895 6.200 15 ArroldN 53.82 6.233 5.878 14 Dixie 53.60 6.143 13 Supercharged 53.49 5.973 6.103 12 sticks 53.20 6.078 6.305 11 Aloha 52.35 6.200 5.773 10 JohnnieE 51.54 6.109 9 Nonfractal 51.27 6.390 8 Shaynus 51.06 6.347 6.128 7 ALS 50.84 6.485 6.125 6 Pepsi62 50.70 6.454 6.461 5 curef99 50.10 6.652 6.293 4 BARacer 49.11 6.318 3 BrumosRSR 48.02 6.322 5.746 2 Andrew's post race review. As he's the track owner and has the 1st place car i thought who better to review each car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22C2f6m-9hE Race videos to come. Cheers Paul
  46. 1 point
    This topic of Silicones removing grip (built up rubber) from the track has been raised may times people seem to be firmly in one of the two camps. I do not have a chemical degree so I can only comment on my personal experience on the number of tracks I have had over the years. Our group currently allows rubber, urethanes and silicones. The only thing we allow to clean tyres is water with a drop of dishwashing soap. My personal experience is that I have not noticed any difference in the grip level of rubber or urethane tyres after having run silicone tyres on the track. As has been mentioned if the track is dusty the silicone tyres will quickly loose grip until they have collected the dust from the track. You need to clean the silicone tyres with water to remove the dust. A dusty track does not affect rubber tyres to the same degree as it affects silicones. Silicones defiantly need a dust free track to work. Even within our race group there is division and some races do not like silicone tyres running on the track when they are running rubber tyres. My option is simple whoever is the track owner makes the decision whether to allow a particular tyre type. What I can confirm is that normally I remove the dust off the track with a cloth and when the cloth is dry there is no impact on track grip if however I dampen the cloth in water and clean the track I have less grip with rubber tyres until a bit of build up is returned to the track. Obviously silicone tyres have excellent grip when I have cleaned the track with a damp cloth. The biggest thing I have found with track grip is not if you are running a mixture of tyre compounds but the actual track surface temperature and humidity. How hot or cold it is on the day seems to affect grip more than anything else other than dust and cleaning a track with a wet cloth. As I said this is my opinion but it does seem that new racers looking for advice on what tyres to run are being influenced maybe incorrectly by experienced racers long held opinions and beliefs. Maybe when some racers find they loose grip on rubber tyres after running silicones it might be what was done to the track rather than the old silicone debate. Just for the record I mostly run rubber tyres however the odd car is running silicone Just my 2 cents worth
  47. 1 point
    After sitting on the shelf for way too long I have started the build on the Elfin Mono. Inspired by FPR7 from 2017 Tasman proxy series I thought it appropriate that this little car should see the light of day, obviously still some way to go but the hard stuff has been done( I hope) and just now to do the suspension and paint, Thanks for this body Phil, Unlke my past Tasman cars this car features a Slimline chassis from Pendle, this chassis absolutely blitzed the field back in 2016( I think,) no doubt someone will correct me on that, the chassis is very easy to put together and fits this quite thin body nicely
  48. 1 point
    Due December
  49. 1 point
    Typical of me is to start a new build at the end of a just completed Tasman Series,this build follows that rather strange pattern. Nothing too different for me as I had this chassis laying around and I had the body which I got from Phil about 18 months back I began the build as a lockdown thing, as we are in a lockdown and there is absolutely no way I was not going to do something "slot related" No track as yet for me to test on but that's okay I will get to that in good time Hopefully we will see a 2022 Tasman series and just maybe a chance for this to race
  50. 1 point
    The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://
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