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  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  3. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  4. 3 points
    New chassis Ford Focus WRC SCX
  5. 2 points
    Hoping a dulux tune up will shave time off my lap times! Was a white body version
  6. 2 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  7. 2 points
    I always wanted to do this. And a test fit... Lots more to do but happy so far.
  8. 2 points
    The Revo range of slot cars is quite popular here , i don't have any but a friend has so i borrowed his Porsche , now these cars are rather nice but to many exclusive componments which i can't mix into my stock of slot cars and interchange things . There are available now bubble packs of the bodies and a 3d chassis so thought i would have a go at my own Revo car , purchased the body at £25 which is already decorated and painted i chose the B Parmalat version and the chassis to fit at £20 so at £45 i have what i needed to build the car and use the rest from my stock of spares, incidentally if you had to do the lot i have done from scratch it would be a £100 car. The body comes with a detachable wing which is affixed to the body by a magnet actually a very strong magnet , neat idea , also you get a couple of lexan interiors which i didn't know why they were there until later, the chassis just comes with the axle grub screws already there. The build dead easy as this chassis is perfectly flat strong and hard and the body mountongs line up perfectly, so i selected a Slot it ballraced sidewinder pod, a Pirana 25 K Ballrace motor, slot it sidewinder gears 11x 35, a Thunderslot wood guide i recommend this as there is no blade recess underneath this chassis and the Thunderslot allows you to run the front low, NSR soft braids, titanum rear axle , Staff gold wheels and Yellowdog tres all round , weight was added midships and up front car weight is 87-6 gr all up. Mating the completed chassis up to the body noted why there are 2spare interiors , the original fouls of the pod top front rails , the spares are low depth, not a problem to change , remove the interior cut the drivers legs of , paint new interior detail and refix the driver in the new interior and all done, perfect no fouling at all. On the track after the usual lube and running in gave this car a really good hammering and what a great build, my mate came over and we both gave it some wellie , and his comments summed it up bugger me that car is very very quick and handles so well with that guide. Final thoughts really does look right flat low and wide , great body finish, down side the price of doing it , would i do it again yes thinking the Viper next even though the cost is a bit much but for a one off it,s great.
  9. 2 points
    Ok folk, time to post some more up.... Cooper #2 is nearly done... a little fit of fitting out and it's ready to be sent off to the Marshal's Paddock for the upcoming Tasman Cup proxy series... First up... took a while, and the face will have to be re-painted... poor chap looks like he has jaundice.... will use some Vallejo flesh paint on him tomorrow... love the detail I got out of the mold... We're out of the paint shop... all done. I was a bit concerned the white over gold would be a bit bland, but the black numerals and tyres seem to have drawn it all together. I still have to fit the mirrors and fuel caps plus some detail work on the rear canopy mount and Cooper badge.. but it's pretty much done. I spent all evening on the steering wheel... I made this one up with styrene rod and sheet. It is drilled with an 0.5 mm drill and there is also a 1.0 mm steering column which I drilled through as well. A 0.5 mm brass rod will hold it all together and that will be glued into the dash. The decals for the gauges come from one of Patto's sheets.. it fits the Cooper dash perfectly. I have to clear coat it with floor polish tomorrow - then the steering wheel can go in... then the driver.. and when all is set in place - finish off with the windscreen... So, my entry is nearly there... chassis is finished and runs very sweetly... I believe this one is actually a bit better than Cooper #1.. even if it was a bit rushed. until next.... frats, Rosco
  10. 2 points
    After toying with the idea of going down the street car path, I ended up here. This car will be raced at some point in our local V8 Supercar class so I added a contrast stripe and threw on a few random decals from the spares box. After all this, I think that I prefer the recessed tray version, so may knock another one out when i get a spare few hours.
  11. 2 points
    Hi Tony Had to loose some weight to make it legal so made my own body mounts,in the process it came to me to make the main base plate carbon fibre for my 2022 GT3 saving 20gms which I think has been my down fall in previous Proxy's. Might be wrong but so close to the big dogs I need to try something different & I think light weight is the only thing I haven't tried. So watch out for a very light weight GT3 next year,testing yesterday with carbon base plate came in faster than my M6. Love the challenge that Proxy's throw at you,makes you test your self to build the ultimate slot car & if you don't succeed it was fun trying anyway. An old mate rang me the other day to ask for advice on a slot car repair & when he asked me what I was doing I tried to explain what Proxy's were & I suddenly realised how hard it is to make a slot car to go fast on 10 different tracks that you haven't even seen before,now thats a challenge. Wiin lose or draw I don't care as long as strangers enjoy driving my cars I consider myself a winner. Cheers Jimmy
  12. 2 points
    Well, this is an older topic that I thought was worth a comment on in current circumstances. I for one, am very thankful that forums such as this still exist. In the wake of F Books bully boy tactics in this country I am certainly re-considering my need for it being a part of my life anymore, and I'll wager quite a few others are in the same boat. If this means a return to a higher level of interest in this style of discussion group, then that would be a very good thing. Thanks to all who continue this platform.
  13. 2 points
    Hi As Den mentioned, I usually snip those posts off to ensure free body rock. I usually glue the bushes in as well. I have this same model and have done this.
  14. 2 points
    Hi Graeme. I'm not sure of the reason for a different approach between the Falcons and the Holdens you have purchased, but the reason for removing the plastic mouldings that press down on the nylon bearings seems fairly straightforward. Those mouldings will only hold the bearings in place if the body is screwed down tightly to the chassis. Most 'serious' slot car enthusiasts will loosen the body screws to allow the body to 'rock' or 'float'. Leaving those mouldings in place may actually limit the amount of 'rock' or 'float'. An extension of this theory is the removal of any other mouldings that might inhibit body movement e.g. the raised lips on the chassis mounting points where the body posts connect, 'surplus' body mounts (some chassis have 6 mounting points where 4 would be plenty) and any other moulding that limits body movement. Den
  15. 2 points
    New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter
  16. 2 points
    There was an old warehouse on the outside corner of the Pub.....this was my take on it made over the weekend.... http:// Another couple of shots of it with Bib Stillwell in the Brabham BT4 rounding the corner ! http:// http://
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I guess because the time and diameter cancel each other out leaving Pi.
  19. 1 point
    The Batmobile from the 1966–1968 live action television show and its film adaptation began life as a Ford concept car called the Lincoln Futura, built over a decade earlier in 1955. The body of the Futura was fabricated by Ghia of Italy, whose artisans hammered the car's panels over logs and tree stumps carved as forms to create the sleek manta ray-like car. In 1959, the Futura was featured sporting a fresh red paint job in the film It Started With A Kiss, starring Debbie Reynolds and Glenn Ford. In 1965, ABC-TV chose famed Hollywood customizer George Barris to design a "Batmobile" for their soon-to-go-into-production Batman show. Dean Jeffries worked on the design and initial fabrication for the Batmobile, using a 1959 Cadillac, but when the studio wanted the car faster than he could provide, he turned it back to George Barris. With only three weeks to finish, Barris decided that rather than build a car from scratch, it would be best to transform the Lincoln Futura (bought from Ford for $1.00) into the famous crime fighting vehicle of TV's caped crusader. Barris hired Bill Cushenberry to do the metal modifications to the car. When filming for the series began, several problems arose due to the age of the car: it overheated, the battery went dead, and the expensive Mickey Thompson tires kept blowing. By mid season, the engine and transmission were replaced with a Ford Galaxie. The most frequent visual influence of this car is that later Batmobiles usually have a rear rocket thruster that usually fires as the car makes a fast start. Gadgets The extra-large bat-trunk in the Batmobile holds various crime-fighting equipment and has plenty of space to fit eight people comfortably. The windshield is bulletproof. And of course, the Batmobile is not without its helpful gadgets: Bat-glove Compartment Infrared Bat-dust (glows in light and in dark, but only visible when viewed through the Batmobile specially tinted windshield) Emergency Bat-turn Lever (releases the Batmobile parachute that enables quick turns) Bat-deflector (diverts a criminal tracking signal, leading them to a miniature Batcave in the middle of nowhere) Bat-ray (can do many things, such as open van doors) Super-powered Bat-magnet (for opening steel doors from a distance) Odor Sensitometer Radar Circuit (puts a certain scent on the radar screen) Ultrasonic Recorder (also records regular sounds) Batmobile Parachute Pickup Service Signal (calls aforementioned service to pick the Batmobile parachute off the city street) Emergency Bat-trunk Lock Bat-zooka (can fire explosive blasts, or is used to fire bat-ropes to tops of very tall buildings) Anti Mechanical Bat-ray (renders mechanical apparati useless) Battering Ram (also known as the Bat-ram, used for knocking down reinforced doors) Library Paste Bat-dissolving Switch Bat-safety Belt Bat-radarscope Bat-alert Buzzer (in all Bruce's cars, indicates when the Batphone in the Batcave is ringing) Bat-scope (TV screen that can be used to monitor someone's movements) Anti-theft Activator (can be disguised as the Start button, fires fireworks from the car) Anti-fire Activator (fills Batmobile with extinguishing foam) Bat-ray Projector (fires Blu-ray from headlights that shut down a car's ignition) Hidden Bat-laser Beam Homing Receiver Scope Inflatable Batmobile (kept in Batmobile for use as a decoy) Batphone Batman and Robin seats This Batmobile original gadgets included the nose-mounted chain slicer, lasers, rockets, an on-board telephone, radar, dash monitor, on-board computer, and police beacon. If needed, the Batmobile is capable of a quick 180° "bat-turn" thanks to two rear-mounted 10' parachutes, and it is equipped with a smoke emitter and a nail spreader to discourage pursuit. Some changes were made during the run of the series, including different license plates, a change in steering wheel, and the addition of extra gadgets such as the rear-facing camera and battering ram. Technical specifications Curb weight: 5500 lb Wheelbase: 129 in Length: 230 in Width: 90 in Height: 48 in Fins: 84 in Engine: 390 in³, V-8 (atomic turbine) Transmission: B&M Hydro Automatic (2nd transmission) The original was sold foe $4.2 million US
  20. 1 point
    Came across a few of the Old School cars from a couple of mags i picked up from the 80's
  21. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Next issue is trying to get a very flat SMD LED with a lens. Lots of versions around with no lens. However it will need to be tested and perhaps the next challenge. Next step to test at speed and this requires transplanting the Arc Pro lapcouting hardware into the infinity vertical test loop. Rick
  22. 1 point
    Tamiya TS49 bright red is pretty close, that's what I used on my Mustang years ago. Use a white undercoat too.
  23. 1 point
    The orange Camaro looks much better than the red Mustang. Latter looks all bonnet. The Monaro too. Chas Le Breton
  24. 1 point
    Colour depends on the angle of the dangle when viewing ....... Same with the Camaro
  25. 1 point
    All good, SlotsNZ... if you don't need all of the info above... hopefully, others in the forum may be motivated........ personally, I find the modeling aspect of slot cars equally as appealing as the running of them...... lover, not a fighter..... oops.. meant to say - modeler, not a slotter... frats, Rosco
  26. 1 point
    Hi Warren If you are like me and don’t use an airbrush go to Auto West Paint supplies in Jamiesontown next to Penrith. They will make you up a spray can of whatever colour you need. I have got them to do the Moffat XY Falcon colour and it came up spot on. Or they will mix you a small container of you are going to airbrush. https://autowest.com.au/
  27. 1 point
    Hi Warren, I believe Bob Jane's Torana and Monaro was a more tangerine colour than the red of the HDT..... You may have to mix your own, more likely a combination of red and yellow..... If you have Adobe Photo-shop, you can download a pic from the web of Jane's Monaro and paint bucket a sample of it.... Get one of the HDT cars as well and compare the swabs. That way, you'll see how much of what you need to add to the red to produce the tangerine shade... That's what I did to match the LJ XU-1 Torana for Patto's decals... I believe I got very close - and the colour is not what Scalextric used on the later A9-X or earlier L-34... If you don't have Photo-shop, you could ask someone who does have it.... I sent a few emails to Scalextric, who simply didn't know what paint was used on the L-34 or A9-X... they made contact twice with the factory in China - but they refused to release any information about the paint used..... it was always my suspicion that they used Tamiya - maybe it was a special commercial mix by Tamiya for Scalextric... we'll never know. But, to be fair - Scalextric did get back to me twice in an attempt to give me the information... I doubt you get an exact paint out of a bottle... but it's not difficult to mix your own. I use a very small syringe for exacting mixes of both colours... And, if you do go that way - write down and record somewhere you mix ratio...... for touch ups. Tamiya paints have been fairly stable and consistent in my experience so far..... Floquil were one of the worst for consistent paint... but the greatest for fine pigment and spray ability... frats, Rosco
  28. 1 point
    Re ute. Munter had some a while back as I got one. Think it was him anyway. Moulding not quite up to Munter's usual standard so he may have acquired from somewhere else. Agree Scaly V8's vary from model to model on WB but are fairly accurate other wise. Cannot say the same for other well known brands. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)
  29. 1 point
    Is slicing up 2 lane curves into single lanes an option? There are videos on YouTube showing how others have done it
  30. 1 point
    Here’s some progress pics shown exactly to scale. Firstly a side view of the guide with new decoder attached, the oath of the braid and 2 raised conductive bars each side of the guide to press braid firmly onto board contact area and also to push shoe into contact with PCB for motor power. Cavity allowed for the plate by existing guide is 15mm height wise. So my entire assembly can not exceeed 15mm. Assuming I use a 4 mm board and a 0.5mm nylon insulator washer, custom cut to suit the Scalextric guide that allows 10.5mm highest component. All doable. Just. The nRF52832 radio chip also just fits. It’s the largest component in terms of area so if that fits everything else will fit in the 135 or so available sq.mm. Assuming room is wasted with a circular PCB we can probably net around 80 sq mm of that 135 sq.mm. Now the current F1 nano chip by Scorpius uses 47 sq.mm so I’m adding an accelerometer and more powerful mosfets and still have room to spare. PCB shape layout also shown with dimensions. I’ve only shown the radio chip, nRF52832. This shows the engineer the shape, position of slots and conductive pads for power in and out fir both polarities. And finally a pic of the special nylon insulating washer that will be custom cut to suit the guide exactly. This is the crucial part of the design and without it the project cannot proceed. The pic shows how the power that normally goes to motor for analogue cars is diverted to the PCB using a frictional fit. I’ve tested this configuration where it only wraps around the plate once, not twice as per factory. Pulling on the braid extremeAly hard seen the braid stay in place perfectly. The cut out on the nylon insulting washer allied power from decoder to motor via the factory stainless shoes supplied. The LED will be infrared SMD (surface mounted) shining downwards through a 2.00mm hole through the PCB. The entire idea is the decider can be fitted in seconds without removing the shell or the guide itself with only a small pair of side cutters required. Rick
  31. 1 point
    Yep I do, I'll go out to the garage now and nobble it so you don't beat me
  32. 1 point
    Thanks OS-62..... I'm hoping it will come up nicely with some Cooper grey chassis paint on it.... and maybe pick out some of the suspension detail in chrome ink..... maybe.... yet to be tried.. frats, Rosco
  33. 1 point
    That was it for that magazine but here's a couple of bits of information you may or may not of known ........... Two Monkeemobiles were constructed — one ostensibly for use on the TV show and the other for touring and appearances. Both ended up on the screen. They have minor differences, too, notably the size of the Monkees band logo on the doors. Try to spot the differences between the car's appearances in seasons one and two. Dean Jeffries was the custom car artisan who both came up with and constructed the Monkeemobile. Jeffries built some of the coolest Hollywood cars of the era, including the sci-fi, dart-like Mantaray seen in Bikini Beach (1964) and the intimidating Black Beauty driven by Bruce Lee on The Green Hornet. The Monkeemobile was crafted from a customized 1966 Pontiac GTO. It was originally blue. In fact, it had a screen career before the Monkees. General Motors was a sponsor of I Dream of Jeannie, the fantasy sitcom produced by Screen Gems / Columbia, the same studio behind The Monkees. The automaker provided cars to the show, including the beautiful blue '66 GTO driven by Tony Nelson. This was the car reportedly chopped up, tweaked and turned into the Monkeemobile! MPC models sold a 1/25 scale kit of the Monkeemobile, which proved to be a huge smash with fans and hobbyists. The company sold more than 7 million of the model kits, which was reportedly second only to the Dukes of Hazzard's General Lee, in terms of TV car model sales. One of two vehicles was purchased by George Barris, another notable Hollywood car customizer. As for the second Monkeemobile, well, it had quite a bizarre and enigmatic life. The Monkees took the car with them on an Australian tour not long after the show ended. For some reason, the Monkeemobile was left behind Down Under. A quarter of a century later, the car mysteriously turned up in Puerto Rico, where it was being used at a hotel as a courtesy car. It has since been purchased by a collector. However, nobody knows just how the thing got from Australia to Puerto Rice. Perhaps it can swim, too?
  34. 1 point
    Board programmed and testing begins. DFU function completed. Wiring completed. And a Mock up pic of a typical 1:64 scale car with chip fitted. Rick
  35. 1 point
    Thanks guys, it helped identify a couple of issues, we probably need at least one more marshall, maybe two more, at least until people get the hang of the track. Car set up is crucial. I am quietly really pleased with how the extension has changed the nature of the track. A couple of minutes with the steel rule after everyone left identified the issue on blue lane on the front straight, I will get onto fixing that next week. I haven’t looked at the section going up the overpass yet, but as that only upset one of Marks cars so.............. Thunderslots are the best, mine was nearly as fast as Mac’s best track lap of 6.77secs.
  36. 1 point
    New chassis ,Subaru WRC Scalextric(C2379 or similar)
  37. 1 point
    The body is fantastic, the chassis should work brilliant...I only hope you're going to fix that track width
  38. 1 point
    Probably not what you want to pay for one but they are around. No bids at the moment so maybe make a cheeky offer, or see they can supply an unpainted body only. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Scalextric-Ford-Holden-vs-84-Nissan-Bluebird-current-Grp-C-lap-record-G-Fury/184634134462?hash=item2afd0d4fbe:g:iqoAAOSwFxlgDNjW
  39. 1 point
    @rosco01I always had an enjoyment out of building models. Plus I have dabbled with slot cars over the years. I guess its the best way for me to bring both together.
  40. 1 point
    I suppose you are correct, OS-62.... "if" I had more room - I'd have more "stuff"... frats, Rosco
  41. 1 point
    I used Tamiya Park Green on my 1/24th Mustang, probably not an exact match but the closest from the Tamiya Greens available.
  42. 1 point
    G'day Oldskool62 It's hard to believe that 8 months has passed since we were discussing this topic. Glad that you've been able to complete a couple of cars. You mention the HRS2 kits. Recently in another topic I suggested to someone (was it you?) that these (the HRS2s) are a good option when you need to find a chassis for a special project. They also have the great advantage of still being available while other good products such as the PCS chassis series a becoming more difficult to obtain. Those JS 3DP chassis that I mentioned last time have been delayed due to the UK going back into lock-down and I'm not holding my breath waiting for them to arrive. No shortage of other projects to help me fill in my time though! Den
  43. 1 point
    If it were me I'd be picking the closest MJK size to what I wanted and making hubs to suit those. eg 4261 for Scalextric Cortina, 4272 for Scalextric Escort.
  44. 1 point
    G'day Shayne, Haven't given the car/chassis a run yet, taken it a few times, still really need to give it a run to see if it's worthwhile using the other couple of chassis's the mate made up for me. Oldskool62/Warren, I usually prime the resin bodies, then white undercoat followed by the top colour, sanding lightly between coats. Find the white undercoat brings out the top colour better then just over the grey primer. I then allow the paint to dry for a few days/week, apply the decals and then use a Clear Gloss applied in 2 coats. The painted body is then left covered (usually a Carrera display case lid) in the drying oven (being my shed which gets ridiculously hot in Summer). I use the Squirts Clear Gloss from Bunnings, seems to hold up quite well for racing. Using the peel and stick decals from Pattos the clear gloss helps make the decals blend in a bit more rather than looking like stickers. Tried the waterslide decals a couple of times now but I think I'll stick to what I know and what's easier. cheers Matt
  45. 1 point
    By the time you fill the body to obtain a good finish the door lines will have gone with the detail, so it all needs to be added.The thickness and hardness of these means you may struggle with the scriber to get enough depth. I have tried another knife and it does work if you can control the temperature, and be careful.
  46. 1 point
    HI folk, I put up a question to the forum a little while back and it didn't "snag" any response... so, I'm starting a thread on the topic... Mods - please delete or re-direct if one has already been made... I did a search, but it did not come up with any topic, just some mention of Pinkysil.. So... went on line yesterday and again today... in search for Pinkysil.... each link I chased returned the same result "none in stock".. unless I wanted to go for 10 kg's of it... I then phoned the proprietor company, Barnes - who have a retail store in Brunswick, Melbourne... and the lovely young lass told me she had some on the shelf.... I gave her my name - and set off.... an hour's journey in the truck (has Navman)... and a nightmare of traffic in the Brunswick/Sydney Road area.... Went into the store and quickly grabbed the last 1 kg kit off the shelf..... I then asked about casting material - told her it was for model train parts and possibly looking at something which could withstand some punishment... as in a slot car body etc.... no intention of doing one at this stage... I have a Datsun 280Z that might get done... but I'm more focused on parts... She directed me to another Barnes product called "Easy Cast"... which has some flexibility, but is very viscous... meaning it should result in very high detail... so, I bought the 1.9 kg pack of that as well. Walking up to the counter, I spotted some modeling clay... and have read in this forum the issues with using some varying types of clay to make perimeter boundaries and filling apertures of items to be cast etc.... asked her how it reacted with both Pinkysil and Easycast... "made for it"... was the reply - so, bought a 1 kg slab of that as well.... oil based modeling clay, non-hardening. So, folk... I'm armed.... I have some locomotive bogie sideframes to make a casting up first... which is why I wanted to chase this up a few weeks back.. but I am considering having a bash at making a mold of the brass grille I made for the LJ.... I have many Dow Corning silicone molding rubber Type E molds that I'm hoping the Easy Cast will work well with... I am keen to see how good it is for the very fine detail results I got from the Type E.... Ok - pic.... any suggestions... and, has anyone used Easy Cast before... any tips... it looks very "fluid" to me... working time of 2 minutes - cure time 15 min plus.... Also, any tips for using PInkysil and the modeling clay.... the clay is re-usable... I'll keep all of these products in a dark and fairly constant temp storage area.... frats, Rosco
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Hi Guys, So heres the first pass on the world first nano chip ie 10.0x5.0mm or less. Application: Scorpius Wireless only. Photo of new F1 chip shown next to current generation of Scorpius car decoder for comparison. It features the Nordic nRF52832 wafer chip. Dongle and app connect. Full wireless telemetry Best line system ULTIMA Anti collision 3A power mosfets DC only. Size 9.4x5.0 of 47.0sq.mm Thickness 2.9mm Volume 136.3 cubic mm Double sided. Component count 28 on board. Gold plated pins. Is smaller possible? A 7.5x4.0mm is possible, dependent on current trials. Progress: Programming and firmware stage. Project name: Scorpius F1 Nano car decoder. Date of F1 project commencement: Nov 15th 2020 Today Monday 25th Jan is day 42. Specification documents: 1 day. Design time: 2 days by John Huberts. BOM documentation and schematics 1 day. Manufacture time 28 days as promised by manufacturer. Transport 4 days. We are still on summer break back early February 2021. Note board is 9.4mm long but snap off bits due to manufacturing requirements need to be filed. Verniers show 9.47 but board is actually 9.4 long. Still a lot of work to go, sometimes a new PCB must be made. All part of the game. Some of this development willl go into the Gen II chip. This project is not only a commercial project but also a FUN project for all concerned. Another WORLD FIRST for Team Scorpius!
  49. 1 point
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  50. 1 point
    Hi guys new here just in the process of rebuilding my old Artin 4 lane plastic track 1/32. Will post pics as the build proceeds. Im hoping to get a club running down this way if there is anyone in the area and interested. Phil
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