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  1. 3 points
    HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco
  2. 3 points
    Have now got the decals on now so can call this one done. These are Patto's peel and stick which a) are easy to apply & reposition & b) good for cars that get a lot of use. These ones were a bit tricky as they were the 'full side of car' ones which include the car's colour. I needed to trim them all close to the edges to remove the background colour.
  3. 3 points
    At racing this week I mentioned that I had made a dual motor 4WD Metro a while back. I had a few questions about it so here she is: I scratched up a chassis using some old sidewinder chassis's that I had lying around. It goes great. Handles really well and, with all the weight spread evenly front and rear, it sure doesn't need any extra ballast!
  4. 2 points
    We're back to racing - Wednesday night on Bob's track. Nice long straight for those cars that like to stretch their legs.
  5. 2 points
    It's a track we rarely race on. Bob's other track is his preferred choice but it's plastic.
  6. 2 points
    Rosco, You need a 15.5mm Spur......buy the 15.5mm straight cut ergal Spur from MRSlotcar,......there is absolutely no need (or advantage ) to using an"angled" Spur, these went out of vogue in the early seventies, and you will not see a high end 1/32 or 1/24 club or commercial track car using them. Similarly, many folks running 1/32 plastic cars do not think of using them. Straight cut Spurs can also be used boss in , or, boss out, depending on your spacing/clearance. And by the way, there is no such thing as a dedicated inline/Sidewinder/anglewinder pinion, just pinions of different diameters,.....the different diameters of both pinion and Spurs, allow you to play with many gear ratio variations, and "fit" gears into many motor configurations.........eg, on your McLaren you could use........a 6.5mm pinion with a 15.5mm Spur,....a 5.5mm pinion with a 16.5mm Spur, or, a 7.5mm pinion with a 14.5mm Spur...(all these Spur sizes are available from MRSlotcar). The MRSlotcar gears are cut by Sonic, who has been making high end slotcar gears for decades,...their quality is better than the Chinese made gears, which virtually all plastic car manufacturers use. PS You can also play with varying size pinions and Spurs from Slot-it/NSR/SCaleauto etc. etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  7. 2 points
    Always ready to run down under , even if it means nicking the missuse retirement fund for postage will support , have slot car will travel
  8. 2 points
    I've been tied up each weekend with helping mum move her stuff now that she's sold her house but the stars align next Wednesday night for Round 7. I've put the word out to the local racers to see who's available. Will keep you posted on which track. Cheers Paul
  9. 2 points
    Been filling the endless amount of nail holes, hopefully start on the track paint tomorrow
  10. 2 points
    The finished bridge took its place on the track.....
  11. 2 points
    Hi Brooksy thanks for your interest I am the event organiser for the upcoming NSR National titles and am happy to answer your questions Motors and Tyres - Will this be supplied by the race organisation? Yes they will. Will we need to supply rims? Yes, only tyres and motors together with their pinion will be supplied Qualifying Format - What is the qualifying format, Is it like other Australian National events held (i.e. Scale Model Nationals: 60 seconds, any lane, fastest time counts)? The qualifying format is 1 minute any lane fastest single lap counts as your time Race Format - What is the race format? Again it is like other Australian national events held (I.e. Scale Model Nationals: 8 x 2 minute heats)? Understand there will be heats and then step up mains, what will this look like? Who gets seeded into what heat, how do you progress to the the mains (total lap score or finishing position in heats)? The format is as follows. Qualifying results in your seed position for the heats, fastest 8 drivers in heat 1, next 8 drivers in heat 2, following 8 drivers in heat 3 etc. Each heat has 8 brackets of 2 minutes ie 2 minutes each lane , lane selection to begin is random. Total lap score and time is your finishing position in the heats. Then step up mains are bottom 8 drivers first main, top 2 progress to next final, then the next 6 join them for the next final and the top 2 progress so on until we have the last final which is the top 6 qualifiers followed by the top 2 from the last main that was raced. Top qualifier has choice of lane for each final. Practice (Sunday Morning) - Are you allowing practice for race entered cars post qualifying, or will cars be in parc-ferme conditions? If so, will cars need to be presented for scrutineering again before racing commences. All cars will be scrutineered prior to qualifying. Cars may be worked on after this but at the start of each class the cars must be presented to the scrutineer with their bodies off. Once this happens the cars go into parc-ferme conditions and are placed on a table. If the driver requires to replace a broken part for their final they may take the car however it must be scrutineered again ( at the discretion of the Race Director). Practice is offered on Sunday and Monday mornings prior to the class starting and before scrutineering commences. Same 3 minute block each driver rotating groups of 8 first in best dressed as far as lane preference. Entries - Are we able to see or obtain a list on who has entered each race thus far? would be good to know who is coming to race and from where? Also what is the cut off for number of entrants for each class. Entry list will be provided once entries are either closed or once they reach the maximum amount. Currently they sit at about 30 per class and we have a maximum of 48 per class. Car Chassis Weight - Are we able to add weight/ballast to the cars anywhere on the chassis and/or motor pod. I can see there is a minimum Body Weight for each class, yet the rules don't clearly explain if we can weight to any part on top of the chassis inside the car. This is to assist with with cornering/performance/car setup. See the rule set on the NSR website or at Scalexseller.com, ballast may be added however it is specific in the rule set where it can be placed. Tyre Cleaning - Are we allowed to clean tyres before and/or during racing between heats? If so, what can we/ what are we allowed to use (i.e. Tape, Shellite, Water, WD-40, etc...)? NO chemicals of any kind may be used on the tyres during the event. You may glue and true the tyres and run them in, however no additive is to be used on the track. You may clean the tyres with tape however no reside is allowed. If a car is found to have the tyres modified in anyway this will result in disqualification from the heat/ final and class. I hope this clarifies things, please if you or anyone has any questions feel free to email me @ NSRaustralianNats@outlook.com We are super excited and pumped for this event!!! Tod Chairman NSR Australian National Championship Committee.
  12. 2 points
    Unfortunately Arc Pro only has a limited Bluetooth connection to app with 1.8 second delay with no compatible hardware for any aftermarket apps. If you’re a Scalextric fan you’re better off going back to the C7042 powerbase which has lots of aftermarket options including throttle and 4-5 RMS options which include pit stops. Arc Pro was specifically a step back from C7042 to reduce price and target the Christmas box set market. C7042 was helped along by 2 forum members during design and development stage and hence a more suitable product for those wanting to go next level.
  13. 2 points
    I did this I don't know why or what or when yet?
  14. 2 points
    I am very happy to leave my car with Paul and finish the proxy series
  15. 2 points
    I was thinking about this question from The Great Munter so decided to whizz up a 'body sunk Turd' after work yesterday, just for shits and giggles. This car won't a Metrorama contender, but I have to say I think it's pretty cool. I used an old Scalextric Metro body that came with a working rear louvre hatch. I raised the body skirt up as high as it would go, and removed about 4-5mm from the bottom of the Turd body. I only had half a body skirt to work with (must have used the rest for another project) so the front flares are made from Milliput. I also only had a bit of the louvre hatch left (must have used the rest for another project...) so made up the rest from some scrap plastic. The chassis and most of the running gear was cut down from from an old Scalex F1. It sits about as low as it can, without the tyre tops rubbing the widened rear wheel arches. To give some idea how low this is, here it is against a stock MetroTurd and against a 'conventionally lowered' turd from the last Metrorama series It runs great. I get a real kick out of putting these little projects together but I wish I had the patience and modelling skillset that Dave and Pat have! Must get back to building my Metrorama race car now.
  16. 2 points
    open location, right click on image, select copy image address. In post click on insert image from URL (bottom right) CTRL+V or right click and paste into text field. And yes they do make a nice pair, very nice pair indeed.
  17. 2 points
    Getting to the point of cutting shapes now (few spots re routed)
  18. 1 point
    Give me a call when you are ready. I qualify as the “fella” but.
  19. 1 point
    I can be there to give a hand
  20. 1 point
    Give me a call Rossco if you need a lift 021 1749091
  21. 1 point
    We often read about these in the USA, but here’s a kiwi one. Many of the cars and motor bikes are already listed on Trade Me auction site for $1 reserve (for Oz and further away guys, that’s sort of a domestic EBay type site) And after just 3 days, some of the prices are eye watering. Vince - you’d need deep pockets for the 67 Mustang, already into 6 figures.
  22. 1 point
    From a slotcar perspective the only advantage to using hypoid gears is that they are designed to work with the rear axle above the centerline of the motor shaft, which for a given sized rear tire will lower the cg. Hypoid/bevelled gears were never really designed to be quieter, but rather they were designed for heavy industrial (high torque) applications where having the load spread across the entire face of the gear teeth was beneficial..........no slot car motors have that much torque, but, hypoid do have a place in slotcar racing due to the lowering of the cg. by raising the rear axle in relation to the motor shaft. They are also designed with a specific "offset" in mind,.....the teeth on a Slot-it "offset" contrate are cut to work best with the rear axle 1mm above the motor shaft, excessive deviations in the "offset" amount will result in poor/noisy mesh. So if your rear axle is level with the motor shaft (this only applies to inline motor configurations), and your gears are well installed, are in good shape, are close to ideal pitch (more on this in a moment) and the mesh is set correctly they will be whisper quiet. As all of the plastic car manufacturers play silly bugger with their pinions and Spurs (in simple terms they alter the tooth shape to fit more/less teeth on a fixed diameter) it is good to know what is the ideal tooth count for any given diameter, as , if too many teeth are added/subtracted, mesh issues occur, as at a point, the pitch has to change. So here is a "conversion thingie", that applies to all NSR/Slot-it/Scaleauto/MRSlotcar/Scaley gears. Take the diameter of the gear and multiply by 2, then minus 2. EG a 6.5mm pinion x 2 = 13 - 2 = 11T,..........for a 6.5mm diameter pinion an 11T is as close to .5 module as you will get,.....so "perfect" .5 module EG a 18mm Slot-it spur x 2 = 36 - 2 = 34,........."perfect" pitch for an 18mm spur is 34T You can deviate plus or minus 1T from "perfect" on a pinion without issues, and plus minus 2 teeth on a Spur before issues arise. Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker
  23. 1 point
    Hi Chris When covid hit it was just after a massive postal increase here in Oz, the cost to send 30 -40 cars around the world was way in the hundreds of dollars (don't forget all the cars have to be posted back individually as well) plus with covid nobody knew or could tell us what would happen locally, let a lone internationally, when a large box appears from a different country (how long would it be in quarantine or would it be released, the isolation from not being able to socialise also guys who didn't have a track to setup/test on. And as Vince has said money is still very tight for a lot of people plus you can't eat a slotcar, even the polished turds I don't know about the rest of Oz but in NSW we were in isolation for well over 18 months, traveling was restricted coupled with a few anti vax's made getting together rare if not risky. It's taken me well over 12 months to move across the country to my new place mostly due to boarder restrictions and covid numbers, but now that i'm finally here (3 weeks ago) i will be building new tracks once completely settled (wife has last say), one will defiantly be a rally track and with the amount of racers and interest in slotcars in general here in WA i don't think there will be a problem setting up another rally series of some sort. But at this stage the postage costs are still the biggest hurdle for a large proxy event, we will always be grateful to MJK for suppling the control tyres for all the WRP events which kept it on a close even playing field but the control tyres needed to be posted out before the event as well .......... it comes down to cost, so the only way to lessen the costs would be to have someone who's interested in slots who works in a courier/postal service, but i can't see that happening. Just have to wait and see what happens.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Hi all forum members: Was looking to organize a swap meet in Melbourne. I am at this point I am looking to see if there would be any interest. Please reply if you would be interested, also looking for people that would like to have a stall there as well. Thanks Joe
  26. 1 point
    Hi Shaynus NSR have advised will provide of 1 set of tyres per class, the tyre wear rate down there is minimal. regards Tod
  27. 1 point
    I can't make it to Upham Downs this week Pat. Say hi to Charles for me, and go get yourself a VC mate!
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Wonderful work so far, looking good.
  30. 1 point
    Wow this is looking awesome Gref. Loving the updates...
  31. 1 point
    One set of tyres handed out for each class. I would suggest buying tyres your self for practice ect. OLDMAN
  32. 1 point
    Ready to start painting now, playing with elevations as I had to connect bridge piece
  33. 1 point
    Hi there, Just after some further information regarding the event? Motors and Tyres - Will this be supplied by the race organisation as outlined in the NSR international rules for each class? Will we need to supply rims? Qualifying Format - What is the qualifying format, Is it like other Australian National events held (i.e. Scale Model Nationals: 60 seconds, any lane, fastest time counts)? Race Format - What is the race format? Again is it like other Australian national events held (I.e. Scale Model Nationals: 8 x 2 minute heats)? Understand there will be heats and then step up mains, what will this look like? Who gets seeded into what heat, how do you progress to the the mains (total lap score or finishing position in heats)? Practice (Sunday Morning) - Are you allowing practice for race entered cars post qualifying, or will cars be in parc-ferme conditions? If so, will cars need to be presented for scrutineering again before racing commences. Entries - Are we able to see or obtain a list on who has entered each race thus far? would be good to know who is coming to race and from where? Also what is the cut off for number of entrants for each class. Car Chassis Weight - Are we able to add weight/ballast to the cars anywhere on the chassis and/or motor pod. I can see there is a minimum Body Weight for each class, yet the rules don't clearly explain if we can weight to any part on top of the chassis inside the car. This is to assist with with cornering/performance/car setup. Tyre Cleaning - Are we allowed to clean tyres before and/or during racing between heats? If so, what can we/ what are we allowed to use (i.e. Tape, Shellite, Water, WD-40, etc...)? Cheers, Brooksy.
  34. 1 point
    I'm happy for the cars to stay & finish this Proxy,& I don't care how long it takes.Covid has turned the world as we knew it upside down.I'm currently down with the dreaded desease but will be clear to unisolate on Saturday. I can't imagine how hard it is for Paul to organize each round,but the main thing is to keep everyone safe & wake up above ground each day Cheers Jimmy
  35. 1 point
    https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10159081025463897&set=a.10150668958113897&__cft__[0]=AZWI2avm-3zAQjawwEzFQTaGPQlrlzPmnDVl4kQg46O-rUwpn_p5eE-e0PH8KXRMK9sU2kaRv8CExPCwkVvDiXPCI1YHZ9jC2-r4Gw0phLSHhA&__tn__=EH-R
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I am here. Chassis runs smooth and it's certainly not lacking pace. Body is riding high though, and needs to be dropped in the rear. Lots to consider - but when you are working up a good Turd, there is always time for contemplation.
  38. 1 point
    Getting close to paint now, just gotta route the braid recess and crossovers for lane changers. First pics are the optional section, crossovers for single lane or digital, obviously not as nice as a drawing Got all lanes routed and cut to shape, will work on elevations and paint next
  39. 1 point
    Thanks mate. It creates obstructions, an obstacles site. The track is loosely based on the Bathurst race track, Australia's most famous annual race that is 1000km. We have had kangaroos on the track and one famous race in 1980 saw a rock land on the track on the 1st lap destroying the pole car. So I do plan to connect up some model aircraft servos and add emerging wildlife and a "rock" that must be avoided. That is in addition to the track ones- intersection, merging track, corner crossovers etc. https://www.facebook.com/100001044765864/videos/1001308754094719/ https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5405724792805626&set=pcb.2032876636893817 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5365522860159153&set=pcb.2021894834658664
  40. 1 point
    Hey Charles, perhaps you could message John direct, to keep the thread on point
  41. 1 point
    With only 6 rounds completed, you think this proxy is finished? It has slowed down but it still has several tracks to go yet. Im sure Paul is busy or this would be moving along. Lance
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Very nice looking HQ. There's a 'to do' HQ in my pile somewhere, just need a round tuit.
  44. 1 point
    That looks awesome I really need to get going on the cars I am working on at the moment.
  45. 1 point
    From tonight’s racing. Hopefully Bings have the results
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    They make a lovely pair: Hopefully, someone can figure out how to post this photo properly....
  48. 1 point
    For the Metrorama newbies, here are a few tips on getting a competitive Turd on the track. Epoxy the wheel skirt to the body of the car. If you're going to paint your Turd, this is the time to fill any gaps between the body and the skirt with modelling putty. You'll need to grind out all excess plastic to make the body and skirt a single piece. You want to go from this to this To lower the front of the car, you need to fill the front axle channel with epoxy. I use JB Weld. You also need to remove all the plastic in front of the guide shaft. Be careful here. You need to end up with a smooth outer surface for the guide shaft so your replacement guide rotates nicely. As you see in these pics, you should end up here once you have sanded off the bottom of the front axle channel. The bottom of the chassis should now be flat. I also epoxied a piece of lead on the inside of chassis behind the guide for extra ballast. I did this at the same time that I filled the front axle channel Attaching the body to the chassis is another challenge. I have used two methods. The easiest way to attach the rear end is to sand down the male tongue on your Turd chassis so that it can move inside the stock rear body slot that it clips into. This will give you that all important body rock. At the front use I used a rawl plug as a body post. I simply drilled a hole through the chassis, screwed on the plug, and reduced it in length until I got the right ride height. When I has happy, I used JB Weld to secure the new post in place. The other, more complex way is to fit some extra plastic to the rear of the Turd Chassis and use the rawl plug method to attach the new chassis piece to the car body. This method has the advantage of letting you lower the chassis into the body a bit further and I like the option of 3 body posts to get more adjustable body rock. Other than that it's a matter of working out your motor, wheel, tyre and drive chain options. I'm happy to help with advice on that. Mark will be good person to chat with about wheel / tyre options too.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
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