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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/06/2021 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 7 points
    While building a Pioneer Legends 34 Ford white kit I wondered what else i have on the 3D printer could fit the chassis So behold the XE Legend Had the Falcon file so it was only a matter of shrinking it down to fit the chassis, fit some outrageous wide guards and there you have it Bit more fun for the track and i'm sure no one else is going to turn up with the same body and scheme on race night
  3. 6 points
    The release of the Slot.It Winfield Nissan really reignited my interest in slots. It had been about 4 years since I'd bought a car, and other than very occasionally dragging out some plastic track, I haven't really had much of a drive for about 10 years. Since we moved to the coast I haven't found anyone else down here who races and I quickly ran out of talent at my first go at building a routed track. I was occasionally taking a couple of cars up to Fyshwick, but once they moved to the other side of Canberra I became a bit of a slot car collector. Anyway, Godzilla was enough of an incentive and Hulme Park Raceway, named obviously after the late, great Denny. I've indulgently named parts of the track based on some of my favourite drives past and emerging. It measures 5.09m on a 180cm x 50cm footprint. Painted with Dulux Suede with a very light sand with 200grit paper just to take the top off the texture. My Formula NSR #27 Ferrari did a 3.5 pretty much out of the box, and two Pioneer Mustangs, one set up for magnetless running on wood, the other set up with a magnet both did 3.6s. I'm hoping to use Race Coordinator on my laptop with a webcam for timing, although having some issues setting it up. PC Lap Counter is triggering, just need to dial the sensitivity in on the hotspot and be a little less reliant on the lap timer on the phone and actually sort it out. And to pretty it up, with some lines and fences and the rest. Anyway, long story short, glad I finally got around to doing something, even if it's small, it'll keep me occupied.
  4. 6 points
    Hi All, I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects. Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL. @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable. May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on. I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. One list though. @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad. After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet. It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support Cheers Vlad
  5. 5 points
    Have now got the decals on now so can call this one done. These are Patto's peel and stick which a) are easy to apply & reposition & b) good for cars that get a lot of use. These ones were a bit tricky as they were the 'full side of car' ones which include the car's colour. I needed to trim them all close to the edges to remove the background colour.
  6. 5 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  7. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  8. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  9. 4 points
    I’ve had a go at modelling, in 1:32, the Corkscrew corner of Laguna Seca fame. I designed it to print on my Prusa i3 and then glue/dowel/weld the pieces together. I ended up with two track pieces – an R2 left turn and an R3 right turn. See a YouTube of the 1:32 Corkscrew in action here. (0:22) See a YouTube of how the track pieces join here. (3:11) Not all my cars can make it through the corner, especially the inner lane of the R2. My V8Supercars with mid magnet are fine. My magless cars are fine. My modern Nascars don’t make it – a combination of low ride height and a strong rear magnet. My Slot.it 956/962 Porsches can get through but the speed has to be just right and they slither over the initial hump. Thanks for having a Captain Cook.
  10. 4 points
    Finally got the Lola finished, fairly happy with the overall look of the car, although the cold weather here isn't making it any easier, I guess nimble fingers are no longer , along with other parts of my body! anyway hope you like
  11. 4 points
    Hi Guys, Heres the latest detailed prototype lane changer by Scorpius, tweaked by Mr Trax himself. It’s a CNC version of the hand routed prototypes made previously. Soon you will be able to buy these and install whatever electronics you wish. Any digital system actually except SCX. It will come in kit form late in 2022. All the wiring recesses, braid feeds, and pockets are neatly routed in place ready to go. The Ninco track pieces actually clip into place. More pics of that later. Rick
  12. 4 points
    At racing this week I mentioned that I had made a dual motor 4WD Metro a while back. I had a few questions about it so here she is: I scratched up a chassis using some old sidewinder chassis's that I had lying around. It goes great. Handles really well and, with all the weight spread evenly front and rear, it sure doesn't need any extra ballast!
  13. 4 points
    You're asking the $64,000 question. For what it's worth here's my observations. Brumos's car is an NSR so it has the benefit of coming out of the factory with a lightweight body and dimensions (width, length, height) tested by NSR to be pretty spot on. Your car has a 3D chassis, probably not designed by a team of engineers for best performance but designed to fit the Scalex Honda body. My car, like yours, also has an aftermarket chassis but that chassis is from one of the best handling cars ever built - the Scaleauto Toyota GT1. It's fitted to a Scalex Calibra body that I lightened as much as I could with a dremel. I also spent weeks testing with lead in various spots so it was as perfect as I could make it. I had 4 x Scaleauto chassis's set up in different ways and constantly tested them against each other to get the best one. Then I gave it to my brother who made it even better. I had 8 other proxy cars I went through before deciding on the Calibra. Some were close in performance. One was better but not as consistent and you must have a car that is easy to drive on the limit that doesn't deslot. I spend a lot of time getting the front of the car setup so it (almost) never deslots, just slides out. There's probably a dozen other things that make my car magic to drive but there's no way I can tell you what the magic ingredient is. If I knew then all my cars would be race winners and unfortunately they aren't. Hope I haven't confused you even more. Cheers Paul
  14. 4 points
    The modular Bathurst track over 5 tables is on the drawing board. It will come as a MrTrax Hybrid Plus digital system. Meaning it will run (6) Carrera digital cars plus ghost cars. Or 2 analogue cars and thus the Lane Changers and Pit lane will be non-active. We superimposed the topography of Mount Panorama into the landscape to give it some realism. For those purists, you'll just have to suck it up, because it's not possible to replicate every corner detail perfectly! And from a modular point of view, this is how the layout needs to be. I haven't included the Lane changers on this drawing. But I do have a version with the Lane changers in place. The topography took a lot of time to source and re-jig into my modular version. The landscape should look pretty good if we can scale match the contour lines. The 4 tables making up "Conrod", are 120cm x 180cm. Whilst the larger 5th table is 120cm x 240cm. We're hoping to get between 30cm and 40cm in height.
  15. 4 points
    Found a few different types of cheep digital clocks on line $2 - $4 each Went on tinkercad and designed a few panels, then printed them out and painted them and of course i had to add it to the Race Control Centre and put the communications array on top as well
  16. 4 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added a "slide in" background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  17. 4 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  18. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  19. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  20. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  21. 4 points
    Since this is an actual new model and not a repaint of an existing I thought it worth putting together a few pictures and initial impressions of the Tom Walkinshaw TWR John Goss Jaguar that raced and won in the 1985 James Hardie 1000. 1985 was the first year of the International Group A class in Australia and this opened up the Great Race to the Europeans who had the march on the Australian's. Tom Walkinshaw brought across his army of 3 V12 Jaguar XJS race cars and the rest is history. The Jag's had a 5.3 litre V12 and were well ahead of their opposition in this year. Although they were heavy at 1400 kg's they had approximately 500hp and were able to run with the widest tyres and hence a great package early in the classes history. So what of the Scalextric version? It is a great representation of the car and surprisingly narrow and long. The cars advantage is the low roofline which allowed a lower centre of gravity. As far as a slot car this seems to work quite well also. The specifications of the car as follows. Weight 77 grams Length 151 mm Width 54 mm Rear Track 51 mm Height 39 mm The car has all the usual Scalextric features like head and tail lights. Detail is good with excellent tampo printing, body detail with dry break fuel fillers moulded in, radiator grille, wheel detail and bumpers that simulate the brushed stainless look. The interior is limited due to the in line setup used but the driver, roll cage and dashboard detail almost make it perfect. I am one who is more than happy with Scalextrics move to in line motor setups over their typical sidewinder even if it gives up some space for a full interior. The only flaw with the Jaguar I can see is the front tyre gap to the wheel arch which measures at 2 mm. On a 1/32 scale car it is pretty obvious and while I don't want to have a complaint I have to call it out. It makes no difference to how the car runs but takes back a little from what is overall a beautiful representation. The car runs well in magnet form with perfectly round wheels and true axles. I am not a magnet guy so it ran like this on my Policar, Fleischmann plastic track for about 10 laps until I took out the magnet and gave it a run. With no weight added and a light spin on some wet and dry the tyres hooked up OK, not great but it was a bit of run controlling slides. Later I added some weight and took it to 89 grams which makes it the same as my Scalextric Sierra's and M3 BMW's. It did help and the car was surprisingly quick with standard tyres but still over half a second down on my Scalextric cars with Slot.it or NSR tyres. I then added some Slot.it N22 tyres and it was running the same times as my Ford Sierra's and faster than the M3's. Thanks again Scalextric I love the car and keep them coming. After all this I couldn't leave the front end alone and had to fix the front wheel gap by adding a brass axle tube and some thinner braid to drop the front end. Sorry to the purists but my cars are drivers and I had to do it. See the last two pictures if you want to know what I did.
  22. 4 points
  23. 4 points
    I see Metro Hobbies has on their site the Mean Machine and the Compact Pussycat as coming soon Looks like MPC may be re releasing them all. No mention of the other kits but i would assume that if they are available they will stock them All in 1/32nd scale I can see a lot of scratch building going on, plus good track decorations as well.
  24. 4 points
    I planned on posting this up a couple of weeks ago but didn't quite get there. Scalextric have sent us another 2 new Aussie race cars which are always appreciated. Both cars have very attractive liveries and the Falcon in particular a nice change from the Red works Ford Falcons of Allan Moffat. Moffat was my favourite at the time but it is nice to see this car in particular. The paint is stunning and looks fantastic on the track. The French car is the second place getter from Bathurst 1972 and the year Brock beat the big guns in the little XU1 Torana where the wet conditions played into Holden's lap. It was also Brock's first win and the first year the cars were allowed some modifications which was to stop the manufacturers building 160 mph road versions of their cars. The Brock car is another nice looking livery and his second win. Some very nice detail on the car including the Hotwire wheels which look very nice with some sharp detail down to the wheel nuts. My only issue with the Torana is the axles are a little narrow meaning the wheels sit a little too far inboard. I did run both cars with magnets seeing I have plastic track but quickly pulled them out and ran them minus magnet and with the standard tyres. With a little bit of a sanding the Falcon ran very well and prompted me to set up all my other XW and XY Falcon's with a little weight and standard tyres. They drive well and quite realistically although I have noticed half of my Falcons have loose rear bush mounts in the chassis so will fix them at some stage. The Torana tyres really can't cope with the slimline motors power and it is all over the track. So I will eventually sort the Torana too as I find them a challenge but rewarding when the are done properly. Thanks again Scalextric we love the cars and will keep buying them of you keep making them. Maybe a few more liveries during the year please as we just don't seem to get enough of them. And maybe some other Australian cars also I am sure they will sell.
  25. 4 points
    Yello flag Pit road closed (pit entry lanebrane locked) cars on pit road can finish fueling and Tires. Lane brane forces all traffic to a lane outside of pit exit. so safety car may enter track without being hit Safety car enters track from pit exit position of all cars frozen no cars should pass safety car. All cars must maintain position (drivers will have to allow room to change lanes being courteous and maintain position) no laps are counted until are cars are in proper position when all cars are in proper position Pit road opens X= number of laps Safety car returns to pits x= number of laps green flag at start finish line no speeding before green flag this is just how I would do it if I could automate this... im positive its not perfect, but this is the most basic Yellow flag I have experienced over the years. i know there are people who would love Prototypical rules for all of the major Race Divisions, but this seems to work with oval and road course type racing
  26. 4 points
    Bought a Pioneer Legends white kit and did a different paint job on it, hate turning up and having 20 of the same car on the track. Got to thinking while i was building it if anything else would fit the chassis Luckily the slicer program lets you adjust the dimensions of a object to anything you want to print So here's a rough draft of a XD Falcon Legends
  27. 4 points
    Arvo Warren, I will put the cart before the horse, you have the classes and regs. The main idea behind our racing classes and regs is to keep costs as low as possible for everyone, if you don't have a car that meets the regs, that's ok, don't panic, bring what you want to run, there is a very high probability that you can borrow a class car from myself or some one else, we usually bring two of each car class, main runners and the backup cars, soon as we hear you don't have a class car, someone will offer you their backup car. We like to keep it very informal, relaxed and fun, yes we take the mickey out of each other all in good humour of course, there are times when someone (me with myself) will have the shits due to their cars breaking down, crap grip, or simply just having a bloody bad day Bring along your scratch builds, even if they aren't class cars you can still run them and have fun and learn the different tracks hopefully. You know you have an open door to my track for tuning and testing, all we need now is to get these restrictions lifted so we can get back to group racing. Johnno
  28. 4 points
    I finally got some time to finish this project off. I scratched up a new spoiler and threw on some paint / decals. It's been a fun build and the car runs really nicely. Thanks for looking.
  29. 4 points
    I dropped the front on my one, more fitting to the way i do things, rip, tear, bust. Removed the front bumper from the chassis and glued it to the body in the same position Ground away the inside supports of the bumper so it followed the silver all the way around Ground the side supports on the body as well as the motor supports on the chassis also the front body mounts. Ground away the bumper supports on the chassis and ground back the top of the spoiler so they were flush. Cut away the support for the lights and ground the bottom of the light board down about a mill Fitted it all back and much more goodera. Before ........ After ....... Still not happy they couldn't get the stripe right, but glad they built it, now for the 3 pack no's 8, 9 & 10, just in time for Xmas
  30. 4 points
    And another with the car finished.
  31. 3 points
    Been a while since an update, motivation dropped among other things. Will hopefully have the walls/fences done today and then power is next
  32. 3 points
    Another little scenic addition, on the old Longford Circuit about halfway along Tannery straight was thew following building (shot taken from RFactor track) http:// So, I had a go at re-creating this impressive building on the Sorell Creek (Longford themed) Track. Again, as with most of my buildings, very easy foamboard construction. This time covered with textured brick sheets that add a slight 3d effect to it. http:// http:// http:// cheers !
  33. 3 points
    Finished the last of the braiding, this piece will be interesting if it works as planned
  34. 3 points
    HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco
  35. 3 points
    Always ready to run down under , even if it means nicking the missuse retirement fund for postage will support , have slot car will travel
  36. 3 points
    Mr Slotcar is well known for it's Mr Trax brand of modular track systems. And as of January 2021, we were told that Magnabraid from Magnatech in the U.S. was ceasing it's manufacturing due to increased costs and higher MOQ's. This sent a chill down our spine, as magnabraid is the main ingredient on all of our modular and custom systems. So we bought all of the stock that was leftover! But that hasn't fixed the problem. As we are now at least 25 track sets further on from January 2021 and fast running out of Magnabraid. A few months ago we approached many wire braiding companies in the USA, China, Spain, Germany and of course here in Australia to produce a specific braid to our specifications. These wire specs are not the same as Magnabraid. Although our specs stil produced an effective magnetic type of braid in the same same wiring configuration as the Magnabraid. It will be called Mag-braid! At the moment our braiders are running our first batch of 5,600 metres @ 6.3mm wide x 0.6mm thick. Thats about 100kgs and constitutes 1/3 of the costs in shipping. Once we have our hands on the first delivery, the braid will undergo some testing on our production. Hopefully within a short time thereafter we'll release it for retail sales through mrslotcar.com. The sad thing is we had to go overseas as the Australian braiders came back with pricing that was so ridiculous, we had no alternative to source it elsewhere. Nevertheless, the final pricing will be marginally better than what we had been selling the magnabraid for earlier this year. It will also come as the self-adhesive mag-braid exclusively through Mr Slotcar.
  37. 3 points
    Is that all you do to setup your car for a proxy? Now I know why it runs like it does.
  38. 3 points
    Some may know me from other forums...my strength is photography, and losing races...EXCEPTIONAL at losing races, I might add! These are my recently added MR Slotcar Jags!
  39. 3 points
    I think MJK's are one of the best all round tyre which work on plastic, ferrodor and gloss wood tracks with a nice balance between grip and slip. They are very easy to true and if your rims are round you can run them straight away without truing. Are you sure you are not mixing up silicone's with MJK's, silicone's are hard to true apparently.
  40. 3 points
    Not quite the record for old thread revival - funny to revive a thread to bag MJK tyres I use a heap of different tyres - my own home made Shore 40 urethanes - Paul Gage standard and XPG (never again with XPG) MJK, Frankenslot, Ortmanns, Slot Invasion, Supertyres and probably one or two others as well. MJK are fine tyres - they are nice and round and you can run them straight out of the packet no problem. They true up well and are comparable in performance to any of the other Urethane tyres out there. We run on MDF routed wood tracks and they hook up fine. cheers DM
  41. 3 points
    Direction: Yes, slot motors are directional, but not by design, just errors introduced by cheap manufacture. Most RTR cars run the motors clockwise. NSR are untypical that they run the king motors anti clockwise. Get a laser tachometer and test your motors, then install them in cars that are making the best use of any timing bias that exists in the motor. Orientation: Motors ARE often often designed to have an installation orientation, closed can side up or open can side up (see slot.it flatsix motor) Refer to DiSCA digital slot car for an example of rules designed to mimic the behaviour of the full size cars based on orientation. Refer to NSR's International GT3 rules . You will see that the orientation is specified by a red dot on the motor. The reasoning behind formalising the orientation, is that (on a track with steel rails or magnabraid) the motor orientation has an impact on magnetic downforce available from the flux leakage from the motor. Again, if your rules permit , figure out which side is sucking harder in the track and Install the motor to make the best of that. Alan
  42. 3 points
    The beautiful R-Motorsport Castrol Aston Martin Vantage GT3 is now available to add to your #Scalextric collection
  43. 3 points
    A quick build using a busted up Tamiya Lotus 30 body. I was given this body from a mate who gives me cars to restore/rebuild. I did restore one a while back, seen earlier in this thread to resemble the Tamiya Lotus 30 box. The body was cracked, broken in a few places with the right hand side and front nose of the body snapped away. Seen here in the pic below with the new panels glued in place and shaped to suit. I had one of those cheap Avant Slot chassis from a while back that I cut in half, glued, strengthened and reassembled. Had some old Fly wheels that had been sitting in their packets for years so used these as well. After I stripped all the green paint back, gave it a prime, coat of red (didn't want to do the Lotus green again) and applied some decals I had laying around. Windscreen was leftover from when Phil K sent me some for the other Tamiya Lotus 30. Not period correct or anything but had seen a pic on the net of something similar. Fitted with the Avant Slot chassis and original 27000RPM motor that these chassis came with it runs really well whether on the plastic or timber tracks. Pretty happy with it as it was a $0 build, but fun to do, all made from stuff tucked away in boxes. cheers Matt
  44. 3 points
    Whats wrong with some people? The slotcar community is a pretty cool bunch of people who enjoy the hobby and enjoy sharing their experiences…..this is what I thought, but after some exchanges with a few so called slotcar enthusiasts I am not so sure anymore. Some members of some forums are vicious types….they operate in groups and when they see a victim they troll and bully that person continually. If you support someone they don’t then you too get trolled, bullied or harassed. This has been seen on the SF forum over some years and it sometimes occurs here. Don’t criticize anything they do to the slightest degree or you become the target. I am sorry to write this and put it up on a public forum and no doubt inconvenience the moderators but I have to get it out of my system. Apologies to the Mod team. For instance….I recently contradicted or questioned a person on SF and then received a threatening message from a member here. Why would that happen? Because they are both in the same group of aggrieved people. Lets take a sample from the latest PMs “Be grateful you haven’t been exposed….yet” and “You have been warned” and “no need to reply….you have been warned” and “If you continue it online on any forum I’m going to have to let everyone know what you did and how you did it along with all your BS threatening PM’s elsewhere” Now it is easy to fabricate words as I could have in the above statement but these are quotes from PMs recently received. I am sure moderators can read PMs if they need to. In the past I have been asked for my address and email so legal papers could be served on me because I somehow offended/criticized/questioned the guy. If by posting this statement I am asked to leave Auslot then so be it…..but I am just giving everyone a heads up about the wonderful world of slot cars and the sort of people who inhabit the forums. Regards to all John
  45. 3 points
    All right. Let's get this party started.
  46. 3 points
    Typical of me is to start a new build at the end of a just completed Tasman Series,this build follows that rather strange pattern. Nothing too different for me as I had this chassis laying around and I had the body which I got from Phil about 18 months back I began the build as a lockdown thing, as we are in a lockdown and there is absolutely no way I was not going to do something "slot related" No track as yet for me to test on but that's okay I will get to that in good time Hopefully we will see a 2022 Tasman series and just maybe a chance for this to race
  47. 3 points
    We abuse Crocket mercilously, from calling him Smokey Yanuck, to telling him he couldn't lie straight in bed - all because he got some of his cars from the previous track owner . . who we called Smokey Yanuck and told HIM him he couldn't lie straight in bed. We accuse various others - probably including me, of being dirty cheats, filthy rotten nerfers, girls, ladies, offer some braille lessons, and so on. Much fun. Yep. We have a pretty healthy club vibe. A most common saying is "are we having fun yet" Sometimes guys come without cars or controllers, they don't feel like racing, maybe tired, or were just too busy to think about getting ready, but they still want to come to club, marshal, eat food, engage in the banter. I think over half our members are from when we began in 2007, and we have more racing now, than I think any time in the past
  48. 3 points
    Back in March 2020 I asked a question here on the Forum about what Chassis's, bodies I had in the photos for doing some future restorations etc. Thanks to Big Den, he and others help to identify this car as a Marusan Ferrari 156 Sharknose. The car was missing a few bits and pieces. Driver, shocks, front nose chrome parts, tyres, roll bar, exhausts etc. I stripped it back to the bare body shell and gave it a coat of grey primer. Test fitted it again to the chassis before painting. Here it is sitting on the chassis with some home-made tyres, with the black spacers that were fitted to the chassis originally. I made a mold up and copied the missing shock, found a driver figure in the spares box, gave him a paint. The front nose of the original car had 2 chrome insert that were non-existent, so I filled these and re-primed the car. I had looked at a few pics on the net to see what the real Ferrari 156 was like. Would look fine without the chrome inserts i thought. I bent up a new roll bar from brass to suit something like the original/real car, gave it a paint with the Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen. Made up the exhausts from some scrap in the spare parts box, gave them a coat of black. Inserts were made from some old wheels that were in the spares box, sanded down to fit and chromed. I painted the car with my usual Ferrrai red, $8 spray can from Bunnings, put a few decals on and refitted all the parts. I had a problem with the clearance from the chrome parts over the black plastic spacers on the front and rear axles, body just wouldn't sit right. I removed the black spacers and replaced them with some brass tube, cut to length. I touched up any missing chrome with the chrome pen to finish off the Ferrari. Also replaced the tyres I was going to originally use with some others I had made a few years back. Think they finish the car off a bit better. Thanks to those in the know for their help. Can't complete a build if you don't know what it is. cheers Matt
  49. 3 points
    Yippee, arrived today and I had time after work to get it ready for slots tonight and a good result that runs well. Gazza's lowering tips (thanks mate), a bit of ballast, Slot.it C1 rears and NSR braid in a somewhat de-wobbled guide and 82gm all up with 47 of those over the rear wheels.
  50. 3 points
    Track is now painted (2 coates of Berger Paving paint) and is now braided. I have used Tinned Copper as Magna Braid is unobtainable at present. I have run some test Laps and am very pleased with the layout and the grip levels.
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