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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/02/2021 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    The release of the Slot.It Winfield Nissan really reignited my interest in slots. It had been about 4 years since I'd bought a car, and other than very occasionally dragging out some plastic track, I haven't really had much of a drive for about 10 years. Since we moved to the coast I haven't found anyone else down here who races and I quickly ran out of talent at my first go at building a routed track. I was occasionally taking a couple of cars up to Fyshwick, but once they moved to the other side of Canberra I became a bit of a slot car collector. Anyway, Godzilla was enough of an incentive and Hulme Park Raceway, named obviously after the late, great Denny. I've indulgently named parts of the track based on some of my favourite drives past and emerging. It measures 5.09m on a 180cm x 50cm footprint. Painted with Dulux Suede with a very light sand with 200grit paper just to take the top off the texture. My Formula NSR #27 Ferrari did a 3.5 pretty much out of the box, and two Pioneer Mustangs, one set up for magnetless running on wood, the other set up with a magnet both did 3.6s. I'm hoping to use Race Coordinator on my laptop with a webcam for timing, although having some issues setting it up. PC Lap Counter is triggering, just need to dial the sensitivity in on the hotspot and be a little less reliant on the lap timer on the phone and actually sort it out. And to pretty it up, with some lines and fences and the rest. Anyway, long story short, glad I finally got around to doing something, even if it's small, it'll keep me occupied.
  2. 5 points
    Have now got the decals on now so can call this one done. These are Patto's peel and stick which a) are easy to apply & reposition & b) good for cars that get a lot of use. These ones were a bit tricky as they were the 'full side of car' ones which include the car's colour. I needed to trim them all close to the edges to remove the background colour.
  3. 4 points
    Couple more added to the list
  4. 4 points
    I'm not driving that ****!...
  5. 4 points
    I've 3d printed some paint pen holders that run in the slot. Done two widths - one for Scalextric and one for wood routed:
  6. 4 points
    Tru-blu II has arrived. Made for a 'details challenged' mate for his birthday. Second one went a lot quicker as I printed the body on approx 30deg angle so the roof, boot & bonnet were smooth as. The filling effort was mostly around the lower side. Used up the leftover Patto's decals as they come with two sets. It just needs running gear now.
  7. 4 points
    I’ve had a go at modelling, in 1:32, the Corkscrew corner of Laguna Seca fame. I designed it to print on my Prusa i3 and then glue/dowel/weld the pieces together. I ended up with two track pieces – an R2 left turn and an R3 right turn. See a YouTube of the 1:32 Corkscrew in action here. (0:22) See a YouTube of how the track pieces join here. (3:11) Not all my cars can make it through the corner, especially the inner lane of the R2. My V8Supercars with mid magnet are fine. My magless cars are fine. My modern Nascars don’t make it – a combination of low ride height and a strong rear magnet. My Slot.it 956/962 Porsches can get through but the speed has to be just right and they slither over the initial hump. Thanks for having a Captain Cook.
  8. 4 points
    Finally got the Lola finished, fairly happy with the overall look of the car, although the cold weather here isn't making it any easier, I guess nimble fingers are no longer , along with other parts of my body! anyway hope you like
  9. 4 points
    Hi Guys, Heres the latest detailed prototype lane changer by Scorpius, tweaked by Mr Trax himself. It’s a CNC version of the hand routed prototypes made previously. Soon you will be able to buy these and install whatever electronics you wish. Any digital system actually except SCX. It will come in kit form late in 2022. All the wiring recesses, braid feeds, and pockets are neatly routed in place ready to go. The Ninco track pieces actually clip into place. More pics of that later. Rick
  10. 4 points
    At racing this week I mentioned that I had made a dual motor 4WD Metro a while back. I had a few questions about it so here she is: I scratched up a chassis using some old sidewinder chassis's that I had lying around. It goes great. Handles really well and, with all the weight spread evenly front and rear, it sure doesn't need any extra ballast!
  11. 4 points
    You're asking the $64,000 question. For what it's worth here's my observations. Brumos's car is an NSR so it has the benefit of coming out of the factory with a lightweight body and dimensions (width, length, height) tested by NSR to be pretty spot on. Your car has a 3D chassis, probably not designed by a team of engineers for best performance but designed to fit the Scalex Honda body. My car, like yours, also has an aftermarket chassis but that chassis is from one of the best handling cars ever built - the Scaleauto Toyota GT1. It's fitted to a Scalex Calibra body that I lightened as much as I could with a dremel. I also spent weeks testing with lead in various spots so it was as perfect as I could make it. I had 4 x Scaleauto chassis's set up in different ways and constantly tested them against each other to get the best one. Then I gave it to my brother who made it even better. I had 8 other proxy cars I went through before deciding on the Calibra. Some were close in performance. One was better but not as consistent and you must have a car that is easy to drive on the limit that doesn't deslot. I spend a lot of time getting the front of the car setup so it (almost) never deslots, just slides out. There's probably a dozen other things that make my car magic to drive but there's no way I can tell you what the magic ingredient is. If I knew then all my cars would be race winners and unfortunately they aren't. Hope I haven't confused you even more. Cheers Paul
  12. 4 points
    The modular Bathurst track over 5 tables is on the drawing board. It will come as a MrTrax Hybrid Plus digital system. Meaning it will run (6) Carrera digital cars plus ghost cars. Or 2 analogue cars and thus the Lane Changers and Pit lane will be non-active. We superimposed the topography of Mount Panorama into the landscape to give it some realism. For those purists, you'll just have to suck it up, because it's not possible to replicate every corner detail perfectly! And from a modular point of view, this is how the layout needs to be. I haven't included the Lane changers on this drawing. But I do have a version with the Lane changers in place. The topography took a lot of time to source and re-jig into my modular version. The landscape should look pretty good if we can scale match the contour lines. The 4 tables making up "Conrod", are 120cm x 180cm. Whilst the larger 5th table is 120cm x 240cm. We're hoping to get between 30cm and 40cm in height.
  13. 4 points
    Found a few different types of cheep digital clocks on line $2 - $4 each Went on tinkercad and designed a few panels, then printed them out and painted them and of course i had to add it to the Race Control Centre and put the communications array on top as well
  14. 3 points
    I had some spare Tamiya cans of Yellow Paint and thought, what else could I use them on..... appears there are alot of good liveries around. Not going for a authentic replica, just something unique that the other club guys won't have. Only thing is, next time use White primer not grey, Yellow doesn't cover grey very well and needs a few extra coats - always learning.... Project 1: Sideways Grp 5 BMW M1 Sideways White kit Patto Decals Tamiya Yellow Chrome spray can paint Blank canvas All decals on Still need final clear coat over the Decals and some paint and trim highlights and a Chassis.
  15. 3 points
    Projects 2 and 3 Can you guess the livery?
  16. 3 points
    haven't been doing much, put some white and red on corners, contemplating an extension......
  17. 3 points
    Wow - KB's Camaro finally won Bathurst !! Onya Charles !
  18. 3 points
    Just another small scenic update....keeps me amused ! The actual starters position at Longford, - was on top of a 44 gallon drum....similar to this ! http:// http:// Some more figures have arrived & made their way to various spots on the track.....very specific figures mind you.... A lucky Die-Cast find at a market & some decals very generously provided (& applied) by Phil Kalbfell & we have Bib Stillwells towing vehicle ! and finally, a shot of the Pub on the corner getting ready for Bathurst weekend.......(Although some might say he needed a few more trips). Beer Kegs again generously printed off by Phil! that's all for now !
  19. 3 points
    Yep, it's Chris, or if I'm in trouble Christopher.
  20. 3 points
    Bought this on a whim with a few classic Carrera muscle cars. Didn’t have any donor chassis, so modified the snot out of it, to get rid of the front stub axles and push the guide forward about 1cm. Overall the chassis sits 2mm lower at front, 1mm lower at back. The body has been dropped 2mm into the chassis. Throwing out the Carrera innards, chopping the window unit and grinding the body and interior, took 8gms out, down from 83gm to 75gms, then 7gms lead added in total, back to 82gms, with an SRP 16k s-can motor. Overall it is fairly well balanced, runs similar to my Ninco XK120 Jag convertible, which weighs 81gms. It is for our Pre ‘65 Sports class at club. . ‘merican flavoured. A ‘63 Corvette Stingray C2. The Carrera body/chassis and narrow track means it won’t be as fast as some of the class cars, but it is doing close to my Ninco Jag on my track though less forgiving. And it looks cool …. Original wheels turned down for inserts
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    Round 9 will be held on Dave's track in 2 weeks time - 14 August. This will be the 2nd last race of the proxy (about time ). Cheers Paul
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    Track is in and still in one piece
  25. 3 points
    Started a new build to get back the garage for parking another car in, funnily enough. 3 x tables are 2400x1200 each Losing elevation changes and an overpass the last track had, hinges are quite close to the walls, but a happy compromise to still have a track. Routing done, pretty simple lay out but hopefully allow for some decent car speeds even in corners. Starting to paint, going for a smooth gloss enamel finish for best grip and least tyre wear:
  26. 3 points
    Barriers/fences finally finished, next will be power and lane changers
  27. 3 points
    Brilliant night of racing and banter in Mac's slotcave. The best team won with a very high standard of banter and keeping it in the slot. Was great to be back where it all started racing with the slotjockies you have all become. Thanks for keeping the Piebone 400 alive and fizzing. Chur bro's
  28. 3 points
    Been a while since an update, motivation dropped among other things. Will hopefully have the walls/fences done today and then power is next
  29. 3 points
    Another little scenic addition, on the old Longford Circuit about halfway along Tannery straight was thew following building (shot taken from RFactor track) http:// So, I had a go at re-creating this impressive building on the Sorell Creek (Longford themed) Track. Again, as with most of my buildings, very easy foamboard construction. This time covered with textured brick sheets that add a slight 3d effect to it. http:// http:// http:// cheers !
  30. 3 points
    This was a fun little project to kill a few hours in the shed. I have an idea on stretching another model so this gave a practice run. Came out ok and runs nicely on a lowered stock chassis.
  31. 3 points
    Progress continues with final stages of firmware...
  32. 3 points
    Finished the last of the braiding, this piece will be interesting if it works as planned
  33. 3 points
    Braid is down, now onto walls/fences then power, or maybe power first and careful laps Here's how I made the braid joins on removable sections, al put together with no power taps and cars do a full lap with 9 volt battery
  34. 3 points
    Last night was a great night of racing with some real surprises on the night. It started with Curef’s car breaking its guide in practice. Luckily I had a spare at home (100 ks away) so I quickly rushed home to fix his car while Bob and Alvaro waited patiently. I left them to talk about the weather and politics whilst sipping their chardonnays and merlots. Back a few hours later and the little blue Renault was ready for action but all the caviar and lobster was gone. (C’mon, would I lie? OK, pizza and 5 min to replace the guide with one I had with me but I did scratch a fingernail.) In what proved to be the norm for the night all the cars were a pleasure to drive, even Shaynus’s which suited this track and gave him his best finish in the proxy. Well done on getting 8th place! Aloha and Nonfractual also finished in the top 10, both cars loving Bob’s track. On the flip side Jimmy’s Renault with its high rear wing kept clipping the fence on the bridge giving Jimmy his worst result so far. You’ll see it on the video. There were only 3 of us racing (Alvaro, Bob and me) but we’re probably the most experienced racers in Canberra so very few deslots. I know I could have driven all the cars harder but the last thing you would want was a deslot it the other end of the loooong straight which would have lost a lap. Here’s the post-race review, race videos to come. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aO76rjeb9eQ Cheers Paul
  35. 3 points
    HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco
  36. 3 points
    Always ready to run down under , even if it means nicking the missuse retirement fund for postage will support , have slot car will travel
  37. 3 points
    Looks good Printed the same one out as well, played with the slicer program and made it about 5mm wider Did the same for the XY, makes it easier to fit a few different chassis under it All these, and a lot more, have been packed away for the last few months, and are on the bottom of the list for unpacking after i move, but are all still on the to do list
  38. 3 points
    Thanks everyone for your messages they mean a lot. I'm OK just a bit shaken .If you don't already know I was robbed at BP petrol station today . After my experience and initial shock I managed to give the Police a report . Scared the absolute crap out of me . The police were quick to respond and calmed me down which was great because I lost my s#!t . My money's gone, however. The police asked me if I knew who did it and I told them, "Yes, it was pump number 1." Stay safe guys
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
    A first look at some of our cars coming later this year! New POLICAR models, expected in Q2 2022: Lotus 72E - #1 - 1st Monaco GP 1974 driver: Ronnie Peterson code: CAR02g BRM P160 - #14 - 1st Spielberg GP 1971 driver: Jo Siffert code: CAR08a NEW MOULD prototype picture enclosed The BRM P160 was designed by Tony Southgate for British Racing Motors. Unlike many other British manufacturers, B.R.M. also built their own engines, in this case a 3 liters V12, which in the course of its career won four GPs overall. In this model, Policar reproduces the car that won the 1971 Austrian Grand Prix held on the Spielberg circuit in Styria, then known as the ÖsterreichRing. The exhausts of the V12 BRM are faithfully reproduced in 3D printing. Jo Siffert, a very fast and constant Suisse driver on both Formula and Sport cars, won this race, which was, unfortunately, his last victory. CAR08a http://catalog.slot.it/product/product-details/?id=4733 CAR02g http://catalog.slot.it/product/product-details/?id=4757
  41. 3 points
    Is that all you do to setup your car for a proxy? Now I know why it runs like it does.
  42. 3 points
    Just true the tyres and put on some soft braids and you should be fine.
  43. 3 points
    Some may know me from other forums...my strength is photography, and losing races...EXCEPTIONAL at losing races, I might add! These are my recently added MR Slotcar Jags!
  44. 3 points
    I think MJK's are one of the best all round tyre which work on plastic, ferrodor and gloss wood tracks with a nice balance between grip and slip. They are very easy to true and if your rims are round you can run them straight away without truing. Are you sure you are not mixing up silicone's with MJK's, silicone's are hard to true apparently.
  45. 3 points
    Not quite the record for old thread revival - funny to revive a thread to bag MJK tyres I use a heap of different tyres - my own home made Shore 40 urethanes - Paul Gage standard and XPG (never again with XPG) MJK, Frankenslot, Ortmanns, Slot Invasion, Supertyres and probably one or two others as well. MJK are fine tyres - they are nice and round and you can run them straight out of the packet no problem. They true up well and are comparable in performance to any of the other Urethane tyres out there. We run on MDF routed wood tracks and they hook up fine. cheers DM
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    Yes I find India Pale Ale works well as a treatment for the driver
  48. 2 points
    Round 10 was run on the 3 laner (with the looooong straight) and there were some surprises. Lance almost won the round, losing to 1st place 32coupe by only .03 of a lap and beating my car by almost a lap. Rounding out the top 5 were Alvaro and Dixie. The top 5 were so close that Dixie almost beat my car. Biggest surprise was Shaynus's car finally showing it's true potential - there's a video somewhere of it staying with 32coup's car for a couple of laps. The race wasn't without incidents though. The gearmesh on old man's car lasted until the final few laps before giving up. Perfectly built to last the 10 round series. Also, a lot of cars wouldn't survive another round or 2. Braid wear is so bad that there's not much left on the cars that opted to run soft braid (including mine). So, drumroll please, the much anticipated results to the last round of the world's longest running proxy. Name Round 10 Laps Round 10 Lap Time Round 10 Points 32coupe 54.61 6.153 25 lancelot 54.58 6.262 24 Sports Racer 53.77 6.289 23 Alvaro 53.67 6.345 22 Dixie 53.50 6.361 21 Nev 53.06 6.411 20 Aloha 52.92 6.280 19 sticks 52.75 6.453 18 Peter Gunn 52.66 6.577 17 Shaynus 51.90 6.497 16 DP201 51.70 6.268 15 bov 51.31 6.580 14 jimmyslots 1950 51.29 6.589 13 Brooksy 51.28 6.734 12 BrumosRSR 50.84 6.515 11 Nonfractal 50.45 6.670 10 ArroldN 49.47 6.734 9 Supercharged 49.07 6.677 8 JohnnieE 48.87 6.757 7 BARacer 48.08 6.918 6 old man 46.76 6.945 5 ALS 46.71 6.765 4 curef99 45.19 7.198 3 Pepsi62 45.08 7.277 2 Videos to come.
  49. 2 points
    I did this I don't know why or what or when yet?
  50. 2 points
    New Liquids!! Complete professional range of liquids and fats for your #slotcar!! - Specific oils for bearings, bearings and engines - Gears and liquids for gear - Tire Track Traction - Cleaning liquids
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