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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 7 points
    While building a Pioneer Legends 34 Ford white kit I wondered what else i have on the 3D printer could fit the chassis So behold the XE Legend Had the Falcon file so it was only a matter of shrinking it down to fit the chassis, fit some outrageous wide guards and there you have it Bit more fun for the track and i'm sure no one else is going to turn up with the same body and scheme on race night
  3. 6 points
    Hi All, I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects. Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL. @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable. May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on. I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. One list though. @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad. After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet. It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support Cheers Vlad
  4. 6 points
    Hey Oldskool, Apologies it's taken so long, I had a few projects in front of it. Finally, we can see the light at the end, a couple more hours and it should be ready for you. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers NimROD
  5. 6 points
    Racing has been going pretty well here in Auckland. We have switched from SSD to oXigen and we have 7 regulars on Wed nights. We are racing GT3 cars with regulations similar to DiSCA GT3 Euro Series. The cars are magnless (of course). The main difference from DiSCA reg are the use of 17K Baby King/Baby Raport motors (the baby sprinter would be too much on this track) and instead of sponges we use NSR tyres. I wanted to give a go at videoing some of the sessions to show how we do digital slot racing up here. The first video below is the 5 min qualify session: we do qualify to set the grid for Race 1. The second video is Race 1: a 14 min endurance race. Our evening racing consists of four races of 14 min each. We use RCSO2 as a race management software which support fuel and tyre simulations: when we run out of fuel and/or tyres we go in the pitlane for a pit stop. I know that some of you might find the track calls annoying: this is the way we like it because instead of having spare people to marshal we are all actively racing which we think is the best way of using our time (who likes sitting there and marshal!). The videos show the racing this Wed evening when only 5 of us could make it. With 7 drivers we are almost at capacity on this track. This means that if we get more people to join us we might switch to team racing in which case, we can use the spare team mates as marshals. The videos were captured on a phone clamped on a vice on top of a shelf so the quality is not the best. Qualify Race 1 if you are in the Auckland area and would like to try your hand at this sort of racing, let me know. We have spare controllers and cars.
  6. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  7. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  8. 5 points
    Having watched Group A racing I would have to say it is one of my favourite race classes. Being a Ford fan I have always had a soft spot for Dick Johnson when Moffat abandoned us in the Group C days. And being a Mustang fan I loved seeing a Mustang racing. Unfortunately Ford didn't take Group A seriously early on or saw more potential in the Turbo cars so the Mustang never go to realise the potential it had due to being under powered. Dick always said the Mustang was a brilliant car across the top of the mountain but really struggled going up the hill. Anyway I finally got myself into gear to get started on Munters resin body of the Group A Mustang. It is a really well done body with not a lot of clean up required, although I still spent a lot of time on it just making sure it looks as tidy as possible. I am trying to keep my Group A class as close in performance as possible and was thinking about the Slot.it Nissan GTR when I found a chassis with the correct wheelbase for the Mustang. The Slot.it Alfa 155 chassis was perfect with the 80mm wheelbase although I had to cut a bit off the sides, front and rear to make it fit. Here are a few photo's so far that show progress. Paint was an area I was struggling to find as I noticed others over the years were using a Tamiya colour which was just not bright enough. After heaps of research and asking local paint suppliers if they could mix me a can I found I could order a rattle can from Europe with the correct colour of Dulon 913 which is a Renault colour called Verte Laitue. This seemed a stupid idea seeing I would need to wait weeks for it to turn up if at all. More research told me it is basically Green and seemed to look like every green button and dot on the internet. So after much searching I found Bunnings sell a Dulux Paint which looked close enough. Happily after painting today it almost looks a perfect match and will be the colour I use for a DJR XE Falcon when I get a body for that too. I am using a Ninco NC2 motor after some of my others were set up with a NSR Baby King which has close enough specs. I have heaps of old Ninco motors and they are great motors when pushing cars that weight over 100 grams which most Resin cars do. Anyway see progress below.
  9. 5 points
    A couple more pictures of the Mustang progress. I said I made up some lenses for the tail lights from a screw box corners. Below is a picture and maybe a little close up so don't look so pretty here. On the car they look fine though. I just cut the corners off a box and then cut and sanded to size. I scribed some lines to get a straight line to paint the different lens colours and glued on with epoxy. The next picture shows some strips I made from sheet styrene for window trim as I thought it would look a little tidier this way. Cut to size, painted and glued on with flexible superglue. Below shows the window trims in place along with some of the decals so far. The window trims look much better than trying to paint a straight line so this will be something I will do from now on. So far so good.
  10. 5 points
    The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://
  11. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  12. 4 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added some slide in background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  13. 4 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  14. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  15. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  16. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  17. 4 points
    Since this is an actual new model and not a repaint of an existing I thought it worth putting together a few pictures and initial impressions of the Tom Walkinshaw TWR John Goss Jaguar that raced and won in the 1985 James Hardie 1000. 1985 was the first year of the International Group A class in Australia and this opened up the Great Race to the Europeans who had the march on the Australian's. Tom Walkinshaw brought across his army of 3 V12 Jaguar XJS race cars and the rest is history. The Jag's had a 5.3 litre V12 and were well ahead of their opposition in this year. Although they were heavy at 1400 kg's they had approximately 500hp and were able to run with the widest tyres and hence a great package early in the classes history. So what of the Scalextric version? It is a great representation of the car and surprisingly narrow and long. The cars advantage is the low roofline which allowed a lower centre of gravity. As far as a slot car this seems to work quite well also. The specifications of the car as follows. Weight 77 grams Length 151 mm Width 54 mm Rear Track 51 mm Height 39 mm The car has all the usual Scalextric features like head and tail lights. Detail is good with excellent tampo printing, body detail with dry break fuel fillers moulded in, radiator grille, wheel detail and bumpers that simulate the brushed stainless look. The interior is limited due to the in line setup used but the driver, roll cage and dashboard detail almost make it perfect. I am one who is more than happy with Scalextrics move to in line motor setups over their typical sidewinder even if it gives up some space for a full interior. The only flaw with the Jaguar I can see is the front tyre gap to the wheel arch which measures at 2 mm. On a 1/32 scale car it is pretty obvious and while I don't want to have a complaint I have to call it out. It makes no difference to how the car runs but takes back a little from what is overall a beautiful representation. The car runs well in magnet form with perfectly round wheels and true axles. I am not a magnet guy so it ran like this on my Policar, Fleischmann plastic track for about 10 laps until I took out the magnet and gave it a run. With no weight added and a light spin on some wet and dry the tyres hooked up OK, not great but it was a bit of run controlling slides. Later I added some weight and took it to 89 grams which makes it the same as my Scalextric Sierra's and M3 BMW's. It did help and the car was surprisingly quick with standard tyres but still over half a second down on my Scalextric cars with Slot.it or NSR tyres. I then added some Slot.it N22 tyres and it was running the same times as my Ford Sierra's and faster than the M3's. Thanks again Scalextric I love the car and keep them coming. After all this I couldn't leave the front end alone and had to fix the front wheel gap by adding a brass axle tube and some thinner braid to drop the front end. Sorry to the purists but my cars are drivers and I had to do it. See the last two pictures if you want to know what I did.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    I see Metro Hobbies has on their site the Mean Machine and the Compact Pussycat as coming soon Looks like MPC may be re releasing them all. No mention of the other kits but i would assume that if they are available they will stock them All in 1/32nd scale I can see a lot of scratch building going on, plus good track decorations as well.
  20. 4 points
    I planned on posting this up a couple of weeks ago but didn't quite get there. Scalextric have sent us another 2 new Aussie race cars which are always appreciated. Both cars have very attractive liveries and the Falcon in particular a nice change from the Red works Ford Falcons of Allan Moffat. Moffat was my favourite at the time but it is nice to see this car in particular. The paint is stunning and looks fantastic on the track. The French car is the second place getter from Bathurst 1972 and the year Brock beat the big guns in the little XU1 Torana where the wet conditions played into Holden's lap. It was also Brock's first win and the first year the cars were allowed some modifications which was to stop the manufacturers building 160 mph road versions of their cars. The Brock car is another nice looking livery and his second win. Some very nice detail on the car including the Hotwire wheels which look very nice with some sharp detail down to the wheel nuts. My only issue with the Torana is the axles are a little narrow meaning the wheels sit a little too far inboard. I did run both cars with magnets seeing I have plastic track but quickly pulled them out and ran them minus magnet and with the standard tyres. With a little bit of a sanding the Falcon ran very well and prompted me to set up all my other XW and XY Falcon's with a little weight and standard tyres. They drive well and quite realistically although I have noticed half of my Falcons have loose rear bush mounts in the chassis so will fix them at some stage. The Torana tyres really can't cope with the slimline motors power and it is all over the track. So I will eventually sort the Torana too as I find them a challenge but rewarding when the are done properly. Thanks again Scalextric we love the cars and will keep buying them of you keep making them. Maybe a few more liveries during the year please as we just don't seem to get enough of them. And maybe some other Australian cars also I am sure they will sell.
  21. 4 points
    Yello flag Pit road closed (pit entry lanebrane locked) cars on pit road can finish fueling and Tires. Lane brane forces all traffic to a lane outside of pit exit. so safety car may enter track without being hit Safety car enters track from pit exit position of all cars frozen no cars should pass safety car. All cars must maintain position (drivers will have to allow room to change lanes being courteous and maintain position) no laps are counted until are cars are in proper position when all cars are in proper position Pit road opens X= number of laps Safety car returns to pits x= number of laps green flag at start finish line no speeding before green flag this is just how I would do it if I could automate this... im positive its not perfect, but this is the most basic Yellow flag I have experienced over the years. i know there are people who would love Prototypical rules for all of the major Race Divisions, but this seems to work with oval and road course type racing
  22. 4 points
    Bought a Pioneer Legends white kit and did a different paint job on it, hate turning up and having 20 of the same car on the track. Got to thinking while i was building it if anything else would fit the chassis Luckily the slicer program lets you adjust the dimensions of a object to anything you want to print So here's a rough draft of a XD Falcon Legends
  23. 4 points
    Arvo Warren, I will put the cart before the horse, you have the classes and regs. The main idea behind our racing classes and regs is to keep costs as low as possible for everyone, if you don't have a car that meets the regs, that's ok, don't panic, bring what you want to run, there is a very high probability that you can borrow a class car from myself or some one else, we usually bring two of each car class, main runners and the backup cars, soon as we hear you don't have a class car, someone will offer you their backup car. We like to keep it very informal, relaxed and fun, yes we take the mickey out of each other all in good humour of course, there are times when someone (me with myself) will have the shits due to their cars breaking down, crap grip, or simply just having a bloody bad day Bring along your scratch builds, even if they aren't class cars you can still run them and have fun and learn the different tracks hopefully. You know you have an open door to my track for tuning and testing, all we need now is to get these restrictions lifted so we can get back to group racing. Johnno
  24. 4 points
    I dropped the front on my one, more fitting to the way i do things, rip, tear, bust. Removed the front bumper from the chassis and glued it to the body in the same position Ground away the inside supports of the bumper so it followed the silver all the way around Ground the side supports on the body as well as the motor supports on the chassis also the front body mounts. Ground away the bumper supports on the chassis and ground back the top of the spoiler so they were flush. Cut away the support for the lights and ground the bottom of the light board down about a mill Fitted it all back and much more goodera. Before ........ After ....... Still not happy they couldn't get the stripe right, but glad they built it, now for the 3 pack no's 8, 9 & 10, just in time for Xmas
  25. 4 points
    And another with the car finished.
  26. 4 points
    Over the years I’ve been steadily collecting Le Mans winners from 1949 to 1999. Unfortunately there a few Ferrari-sized holes in it that I have not filled. I managed to pick up some old Nincos which will help, but they need a bit of work. These older Ninco are a bit toy-like – the plastic is too thick in some places, the shape not always correct and the paint is translucent. This two-tone paint is a bit of an oddball choice by Ninco. I started work on the 166MM first – the Testa Rossa will take some patience. The 166MM won in 1949 driven by Luigi Chinetti and Lord Selsdon – and really cemented Chinetti’s relationship as Ferrari’s North American distributor and owner of the North American Racing Team. After stripping the car down, I detailed the cockpit in what I thought the correct colours might be. I saw this car in the Le Mans museum trimmed in blue suede upholstery which does not seem period-correct. The instruments were printed on a transparent sticker that I peeled off and replaced after the aluminium paint. The shiny chrome plastic wheels were replaced with Mitoos wire wheels from Armchair Racer. The body was sanded back and repainted in Ferrari red. The early Ferraris were said to be painted in a darker red, but I have not been able to find any period colour photos of the car, so I stuck with what I know. Decals were from Pattos. Here it is assembled. During the race it had a driving light in front of the grill, which was scavenged from an old diecast Cobra. I shaved the body posts and under the interior tray to drop it down and get rid of the wheel arch gaps. The rear details are not quite correct, but I didn't want to mess it up having got this far.
  27. 4 points
    Here is a build I did a while ago to plug a gap in my collection of Le Mans winners. I was always a bit frustrated that Slot It did the 1983 and 1989 winners only in box sets. Getting a white kit and building this one was a no-brainer being a single colour. Not sure the Porsche would be as easy. Nicely packaged parts. The car comes like this – lack of instructions was a bit frustrating. Up to this point, things were going really well. Paint and decals went on nicely. There were a few flaws in the clear coat – I could do a better job now, but it came out OK.
  28. 4 points
    New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter
  29. 4 points
    Stay tuned.... In case anyone is unfamiliar with the relevance of the expression "A Pack Of &^#%&*)*&" I already sent this video to Maurizio with a detailed explanation of what is required...... Let the plinth wars begin....... Suggested Plinth lettering Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey I actually thought it would make a great 3rd line if it could be squeezed onto the plinth. Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey " You're A Pack Of &^#%&*)*& " yeah , that works....... And in case anyone actually doesn't know his record Racing career summary Jim Richards Races entered 990 Wins 207 Podiums 510 Pole positions 78 Fastest laps 155 Race win percentage 20.9% Podium percentage 51.5%
  30. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    After sitting on the shelf for way too long I have started the build on the Elfin Mono. Inspired by FPR7 from 2017 Tasman proxy series I thought it appropriate that this little car should see the light of day, obviously still some way to go but the hard stuff has been done( I hope) and just now to do the suspension and paint, Thanks for this body Phil, Unlke my past Tasman cars this car features a Slimline chassis from Pendle, this chassis absolutely blitzed the field back in 2016( I think,) no doubt someone will correct me on that, the chassis is very easy to put together and fits this quite thin body nicely
  33. 3 points
    iOS VERSUS ANDROID FOR SCORPIUS APPS Hi Guys, iOS versus Android, the age old debate. Which is better? Especially for digital slot cars? The answer is they both work perfectly. They are equally as easy to use for wireless upgrades to products using Bluetooth. Personally I use Apple products? Why? They were first to market and I was an early adapter. They led the way simply because they were more innovative and simply better than MicroSoft (Unfortunate name if you think about it ). Jokes aside Android out sells Apple 5 to 1 worldwide. But there is a reason for this. Only Apple uses iOS but 1,300 companies use Android. What’s the big difference for me is the user experience, for me I find iOS far more self intuitive than Android. Just an observation. As I said I use both. Ive had another full on wireless device app written for a non slot related product I built using first in iOS then Android. Both worked 100% immediately with no bug fixing required. The tech is reasonably easy with most 2nd year uni students bri f able to nail it. Currently Scorpius uses Android to load firmware updates into our Gen II decoder , our Nano decoder and soon our new Maximus decoder. Only yesterday I spoke to Team Scorpius app guru Faruk and commissioned him to duplicate our new app in iOS in preparation for the release of Maximus decoder in late November/early December 2021. I already know it will work as we are lifting the code straight off the other non slot related app I had built recently which works 100%. At Scorpius we won’t discriminate Apple or Android users or tell you to change devices due to poor firmware. That’s our promise. A hobby should be fun and not stressful. Modern technology is daunting for some of us and the addition of bugs can make the experience tiring and time consuming. The last thing you want to hear is when people spend more time attempting loading firmware than racing, and then give up after investing a substantial amount of money, often selling it back into market at a substantial financial loss. That’s bad for the hobby many are trying to build up. A hobby must be relaxing and fun, not stressful. So in a week or 3 we will see our iOS app for Scorpius along side our Android app. Both will work perfectly or your money cheerfully and immediately refunded. That’s our promise, like all our products. Interestingly enough no one had ever exercised that option, ever. You work hard for your coin, not headaches. Heres a re-run of our recently developed Scorpius app powered by Android. Enjoy guys. I’m loving’ it. https://youtu.be/g3cQ9jpB-7s
  34. 3 points
    All right. Let's get this party started.
  35. 3 points
    "well after years of having no track, my cars were boxed up and never saw daylight until yesterday. We have moved interstate (QLD) and stumbled across an ad with a track for sale. I contacted them ands they invited us out for a look. WELL, my introduction to scorpius, very impressed! They have a Bathurst digital track which is awesome, a massive rally track and a small analogue track. A lot of my tyres were red and stuffed, but some were still good. My NSR cars were great after years of no use, the spark has re ignited and I'm off to buy some stuff to set up a new work bench." That's what the man said
  36. 3 points
    Pat dropped off a new body for me yesterday 3d printed Holden HQ Monaro Thanks Dave West for putting us onto the website
  37. 3 points
    Mr Slotcar is well known for it's Mr Trax brand of modular track systems. And as of January 2021, we were told that Magnabraid from Magnatech in the U.S. was ceasing it's manufacturing due to increased costs and higher MOQ's. This sent a chill down our spine, as magnabraid is the main ingredient on all of our modular and custom systems. So we bought all of the stock that was leftover! But that hasn't fixed the problem. As we are now at least 25 track sets further on from January 2021 and fast running out of Magnabraid. A few months ago we approached many wire braiding companies in the USA, China, Spain, Germany and of course here in Australia to produce a specific braid to our specifications. These wire specs are not the same as Magnabraid. Although our specs stil produced an effective magnetic type of braid in the same same wiring configuration as the Magnabraid. It will be called Mag-braid! At the moment our braiders are running our first batch of 5,600 metres @ 6.3mm wide x 0.6mm thick. Thats about 100kgs and constitutes 1/3 of the costs in shipping. Once we have our hands on the first delivery, the braid will undergo some testing on our production. Hopefully within a short time thereafter we'll release it for retail sales through mrslotcar.com. The sad thing is we had to go overseas as the Australian braiders came back with pricing that was so ridiculous, we had no alternative to source it elsewhere. Nevertheless, the final pricing will be marginally better than what we had been selling the magnabraid for earlier this year. It will also come as the self-adhesive mag-braid exclusively through Mr Slotcar.
  38. 3 points
    Yippee, arrived today and I had time after work to get it ready for slots tonight and a good result that runs well. Gazza's lowering tips (thanks mate), a bit of ballast, Slot.it C1 rears and NSR braid in a somewhat de-wobbled guide and 82gm all up with 47 of those over the rear wheels.
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
    Not really worthy of calling this one a repaint. Found a Bentley GT3 worth converting to a Bathurst 12 Hours entry. A few decals converts it to the 2015 car of Smith/Kane/Bell.
  41. 3 points
    Scorpius MPD prototype Version 4.0 upgrade list. Hi guys, This project would be the most complexed and advanced project ever undertaken for the digital slot car industry. And yes we are up to Version 4 prototype. The MPD or Multi Protocol Decoder will be the basis for over 24 products. Car decoder for 5 brands, lane changer for 5 brands, location detector for 5 brands, anti collision board for 5 brands. Wireless dongle for 2 brands. Wireless throttle board for 1 brand. A mini wireless analog module for 1 brand. SOC: NRF52832 upgraded to NRF52840. We need an additional UART for an additional phototransistor circuit. SOC nRF 52832 only has one UART so we have upgraded to nRF 52840. Trade off is its 13 sqmm bigger and costs a bit more. DPR attachment holes: Removed. 3D printed clip in system DPR to be utilised. Pin system found to take too much space and fiddly. Track Rectifier: 4 off PMEG3050EP,115 Schottky Diodes 30V 5A Track Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression (18V max track voltage recommended) Motor Drive: Now CSD17318Q2 N-channel MOSFET 30V 20mOhm @ 3.3V 10A plus revised circuitry. Motor Brake: Now PMPB27EP,115 P-channel MOSFET 30V 30mOhm @ 6V 8.8A Motor Transient Protection: SMF4L18CA TVS 20V Breakdown 400W peak pulse suppression Track Current Sensing: Now 33mOhm Resistor and Amplifier (detects motor current) Motor Back-EMF Sensing: Resistive dividers to analog inputs. Revised circuitry. Solenoid Driver SCX: AO6604 20V 3.4A Additional phototransitor for LB detection: allows for 1 and board or 1 on flylead. Headlight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for high/low beam (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) Tail/Stoplight: 20mA constant current drive, PWM for tail/stop (allows up to 4 LEDs connected in series off board) SSD ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) Carrera ID LED: 10mA constant current drive (allows up to 2 LEDs connected in series, 1 on board, 1 off board) 3D Accelerometer: Gyro upgraded to 9 axis Work continues on the version 4 board design which has some massive changes. The extra time taken to complete the project has given us valuable insight and allow these changes to occur, instead of rushing to market, especially in regards to multi brand compatibility and multi purposing. There is a extreme amount of complex firmware to be written. And this of course where the men are sorted from the sheep. Pretty soon all you will need is a Scorpius controller, Scorpius dongle and Scorpius MPDs to do just about any task possible in regard to digital slot car racing. Possibilities vary of course with regard to different brands. Picture: Decoder quick release DPR hatch for Scalextric and Pioneer slot cars. Design by Scorpius. Rick
  42. 3 points
    Race catering stole the show, again.
  43. 3 points
    Mr Slotcar, Slot Car Racing and Retail Center, for all your slot car needs. Established in 1994 with a single Mobile Slotcar track. We attended parties, school fetes and corporate functions all over Victoria. In 1997 we opened our first Slotcar Raceway in Narre Warren. 4 years later we moved into Dandenong. Hosting 100’s of parties and staged some National race meetings. In 2017 we designed and built our new 800m2 facility in Hallam. It boasts a number of large slot car tracks, two ¼ mile drag strips, a 2nd level, licensed café, dining/party area and fully serviced retail shop. The Team at Mr Slotcar ... Peter Dimmers, Debbie Shaw and Peter Van Horssen Business hours (subject to change) Normal Hours Tuesdays: 10am - 5pm Wed- Fri: 10am - 9pm Saturday: 10am - 7 pm Sunday: 12pm - 5pm Always Closed Mondays Private Functions upstairs or downstairs by prior arrangements Holidays Australia Day Normal Hours Labour Day Closed Good Friday from 12pm Easter Monday Closed Anzac Day from 12pm Queens Birthday Closed Melbourne Cup Normal Hours Closed Xmas 25th - January 2nd Always Closed on Mondays Here are some pics ...
  44. 3 points
    Content on here has been a bit slow - here's a build I did for an AMC article a while ago. Being from The 'Gong, I've always had a soft spot for the Byrt Ford cars that appeared at Bathurst in the old Series production days. Started with a Scalextric Phase II GTHO in Diamond White. Opened the driver's window as required in the race regulations and turned 12 slot wheels from an Oz Legends die cast Falcon in to inserts. Added Patto's decals and a race driver.
  45. 3 points
    Don't know hard I will race them but they will be raced. I don't have many display cars.
  46. 3 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  47. 3 points
  48. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  49. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  50. 3 points
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