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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2021 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added some slide in background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  2. 3 points
    Direction: Yes, slot motors are directional, but not by design, just errors introduced by cheap manufacture. Most RTR cars run the motors clockwise. NSR are untypical that they run the king motors anti clockwise. Get a laser tachometer and test your motors, then install them in cars that are making the best use of any timing bias that exists in the motor. Orientation: Motors ARE often often designed to have an installation orientation, closed can side up or open can side up (see slot.it flatsix motor) Refer to DiSCA digital slot car for an example of rules designed to mimic the behaviour of the full size cars based on orientation. Refer to NSR's International GT3 rules . You will see that the orientation is specified by a red dot on the motor. The reasoning behind formalising the orientation, is that (on a track with steel rails or magnabraid) the motor orientation has an impact on magnetic downforce available from the flux leakage from the motor. Again, if your rules permit , figure out which side is sucking harder in the track and Install the motor to make the best of that. Alan
  3. 3 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  4. 3 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    I call painting "not fun at all" which is why I have 50 spools of different color filament and a multi-color printer. ;-)
  7. 2 points
    A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
  8. 1 point
    It's the Scalextric Moffat Mustang that came out years go, modified front end and air scoop added, as you can see by the photo it has been raced quite a bit
  9. 1 point
    Great work, might have to look at a 3D printer .... one day... Love your Boss 302... can you tell me a bit about your model - keen to add one to my garage, have a soft spot for this car - AM put a huge amount of effort into getting it out here and tuning it.... pity he wasn't afforded the respect and cohesion from Ford America - it's a sad story, all revealed in the great book of his history that I highly recommend reading. Being a "red lion" fan, and owner - the book completely turned my opinion of AM around... I now wish I had afforded him greater respect during his racing... what RJ and NB did to him when he launched the 302 at Calder - belittled them both. frats, Rosco
  10. 1 point
    So after racing for a while, the corners circled were giving us grief, upset the cars too much and as such, Col decided to change them to make the lane more appealing, should be much better
  11. 1 point
    Sorry guys, forgot all about the videos. Pepsi, curef99, BARacer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T10NpyW330 ALS, Shaynus, Nonfractual. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa5Iy9384UA BrumosRSR, ArroldN, Supercharged https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLaS52_ssgg Dixie, bov, sticks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPzLFWlAPHI old man, Nev, Aloha https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WTAVe7ZGwk JohnnieE, jimmyslots 1950, lancelot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMDVM4krzvQ Peter Gunn, DP201, Brooksy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRptHsIyvu0 32coupe, Alvaro, Sports Racer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTprxD1lGbU
  12. 1 point
    Thankfully BBC showed a big chunk of these 8 hour races back in the 80's, it only lasted a few of years but wow what fantastic racing, definitely a highlight of my TV racing memories with 'racecam' being the new big thing.
  13. 1 point
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  14. 1 point
    Referance the IPS proxy i competed in this for the last few years and in my opinion this was the best proxy, well run by Alexis and such fun to follow your car from Greece, to Canada with a few stops inbetween, always a lot going on what with so many pictures , and comments. The cars were all great some lovely classic cars were entered in that , and from a personal point it seemed i could build pretty good IPS cars , have a couple of trophys sitting on the shelf here, but the main problem now apart from covid would be the cost of sending cars around parts of the globe, and customs, possibly it could become a one country proxy, i actually thought about it here but lack tracks. So perhaps those days are gone and the only type of proxy possible is actually a single country like Paul is running , but you still need tracks and people to enter it
  15. 1 point
    Found this Youtube clip which is quite a laugh. Wish I'd painted the door cards beige now.
  16. 1 point
    That’s a really nice job and great you have done it from scratch so to speak. That a bucket list car for sure.
  17. 1 point
    Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  18. 1 point
    Hi davo43,............A bit of info on how you are planning to go racing would be helpful !! What type tyres are you planning on using ? Are you running on wood or plastic ? If running on plastic, will you be using magnets ?.......if no, are you hoping to use the motor magnets to provide some level of magnetic downforce ? All of the above, will dictate the set-up. Cheers Chris Walker
  19. 1 point
    Nice looking car and great to be able to fold the top down too. Currently weighing up the pros and cons of selling our MX5 and replacing it with a ready to roll, road legal MGTF kit car. ps ... welcome aboard.
  20. 1 point
    It would also been nice if there were lights in the top beacon and in the tail pipe.
  21. 1 point
    Gary Cannell from MRE in the UK commissioned some matching Robin figures. Having retired, his inventory is now in the hands of Pendleslot, so maybe they will surface there.
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