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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/2021 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  3. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  4. 4 points
    Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added some slide in background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks
  5. 4 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  6. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  7. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  8. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  9. 3 points
    Direction: Yes, slot motors are directional, but not by design, just errors introduced by cheap manufacture. Most RTR cars run the motors clockwise. NSR are untypical that they run the king motors anti clockwise. Get a laser tachometer and test your motors, then install them in cars that are making the best use of any timing bias that exists in the motor. Orientation: Motors ARE often often designed to have an installation orientation, closed can side up or open can side up (see slot.it flatsix motor) Refer to DiSCA digital slot car for an example of rules designed to mimic the behaviour of the full size cars based on orientation. Refer to NSR's International GT3 rules . You will see that the orientation is specified by a red dot on the motor. The reasoning behind formalising the orientation, is that (on a track with steel rails or magnabraid) the motor orientation has an impact on magnetic downforce available from the flux leakage from the motor. Again, if your rules permit , figure out which side is sucking harder in the track and Install the motor to make the best of that. Alan
  10. 3 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  11. 3 points
    Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    Agreed. I was quite the Nissan fan in the day. Perhaps Slot.it can do a VL SS Commodore? They can go chassis economy mode and also do the VK and VL Walkinshaw, all of which have European liveries to go with the multitude of Australian liveries. Now that era of Holden I would like to see. Those would sell well here in Aus.
  14. 2 points
    We were supposed to round this round last week but circumstances etc. This coming Sunday, 1pm local time on Dave's track. It's another power track, suits the cars with boxer motors. Cheers Paul
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    I call painting "not fun at all" which is why I have 50 spools of different color filament and a multi-color printer. ;-)
  17. 2 points
    A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
  18. 2 points
    Saw this running last night. Supercool. Stance is spot on. Nice one, Pat.
  19. 2 points
    Toy Brands V's Professional Slot Racing Car
  20. 2 points
    Ya gotta be happy with that
  21. 2 points
    CA49a Nissan GT-R n.23 24h Spa 2018 available to the world market.
  22. 2 points
    The Toyota 86C part number CA41d - n.35 Fuji 1000 Km 1986 from every angle. On sale soon.
  23. 2 points
    tried to get an overhead view
  24. 2 points
    Hi Guys We haven't seen any videos or numbers for a while, so I thought I would do some numbers based on the data we have. So about the only thing I came up with is an efficiency percentage, based on laps you have done in the race and a theoretical lap score (TLS) based on the your fastest lap time e.g for 32coupe laps 60.43 fastest lap 5.623 So from that we can find a theoretical lap score (TLS), The time of the race 360 sec is divided by fastest lap 360/5.623 = 64.02 so then you can divide the actual laps by the TLS in this case 60.43 / 64.02 = .944 or 94.4% so here's the list Name Laps fastest lap TLS Efficiency percentage 32coupe 60.44 5.623 64.02 94.4% Sports Racer 59.88 5.666 63.54 94.24% Alvaro 59.84 5.682 63.36 94.44% Brooksy 57.97 6.014 59.86 96.84% Nev 56.57 5.851 61.53 91.16% DP201 56.09 5.983 60.17 93.22% old man 55.85 5.964 60.48 91.22% Lancelot 55.35 6.004 59.96 92.18% jimmyslots 55.27 5.964 60.36 91.56% Peter Gunn 54.47 5.903 60.99 89.32% bov 54.02 5.895 61.07 88.46% ArroldN 53.82 6.233 57.76 93.18% Dixie 53.60 6.143 58.60 94.46% Supercharged 53.54 5.973 60.27 88.75% sticks 53.20 6.078 59.23 89.82% Aloha 52.35 6.200 58.06 90.16% JohnnieE 51.54 6.109 58.93 87.46% Nonfractal 51.27 6.390 56.74 91.00% Shaynus 51.06 6.347 56.79 90.00% ALS 50.84 6.485 55.52 91.58% Pespsi62 50.70 6.454 55.78 90.89% curef99 50.10 6.652 54.11 92.57% BARacer 49.11 6.318 56.98 86.19% BrumosRSR 48.02 6.322 56.94 84.64% I hope is helpful
  25. 2 points
    Thanks Greg, here's the links to the items Miners Cottage Windmill Water Tank Enlarging the Cottage from HO to 1/32nd made all the wall dimensions thicker, so i used tinkercad to make the inside walls and base thinner, mainly to save on print time, even so it still took over 30 hours for all the items to be printed.
  26. 2 points
    Our club was suppose to start racing a new class for Slotit Nissan Skyline R32s, but the Auckland lockdown has put paid to that, likely it will become a New Year class now. I thought I would have plenty of time to complete some projects but these two took me a month and a half to finish! Figuring there would be alot of Calsonic and Bathurst duplicate liveries appearing, I wanted something more unique but easy to paint. While technically fantasy liveries, they will hopefully still look the part. I'm hoping these cars will prompt the other club members to hurry up and prep their Skylines. I found the Tamiya Floro red paint is deadly on white, if you haven't masked stuff properly and sealed every nook, cranny and edge. Also pays to let it dry more than 2 days before clear coating it, otherwise it runs . - OrakeiRacer
  27. 2 points
  28. 1 point
    So after racing for a while, the corners circled were giving us grief, upset the cars too much and as such, Col decided to change them to make the lane more appealing, should be much better
  29. 1 point
    Thankfully BBC showed a big chunk of these 8 hour races back in the 80's, it only lasted a few of years but wow what fantastic racing, definitely a highlight of my TV racing memories with 'racecam' being the new big thing.
  30. 1 point
    Outstanding! From a great print to a spectacular finish, Beautiful Build Mate, Love it Cheers NimROD
  31. 1 point
    Hi folk, about time I put some posts up on some models I've now finished. I purchased the Thunderslot McLaren Elva of Elvis Presley, Bruce McLaren, Graham Hill some time back - and fell in love with it. I ordered two white kits and decided I'd start playing with pearl paints from SMS.. first time for me. I was able to reference the finished factory model for reference - and decided I'd follow the trim lines for both my models. I have found that building two of anything at the same time produces a "poor relation" and one which enjoys the benefit of practice... I have done this with scratch building locomotives and rolling stock. The kit went together really well and I am very impressed .. but, it needed some argy bargy to get some of the parts to fit... with a bit of scraping/cajoling/sanding until they all sat down and played nicely together.. The first one, I bought some SMS "pearl grape" some time back.. and it went without thought to use it on one of these two... I chose "inca gold" for the trim colour.... The second one, I found a lovely pearl light blue called "ice blue"... I could not find anything close to what I wanted for the darker colour.. so, mixed up one of my own using SMS again... I used ice blue, black and some VR blue to get the darker pearl colour I wanted.. and am so happy with it, I will use it again when opportunity arises.. I really like the combination of bringing these two "ice blue" base colours together.. see what you think... I have the order back to front .. This was my first of the two builds.... "purple grape" with "inca gold" ... and note the longer ram tubes. With both models, I used the trim colour for the driver's helmet and wheel inserts. I used clear green for the driver's goggles with "purple".. and kept with the blue theme for clear blue for those of "blue"... Here's purple - so far, only one vote for "purple".. "blue" seems to be winning this almost outright... your thoughts? I'll have a few more posts to put up... I have been a bit slack in posting up my work.. I have completed a white kit "Mr Slotcar" F1 GTR McLaren in a "colour shift" SMS called "Black hole".. very impressed. Also, there has been a Thunderslot white kit of a Lola T70 mk 3. I have six new NSR models and six Revo slot ones... only one of these 12 has been a white kit - a Porsche 911 GT-2 (for my daughter)... we are making up a colour scheme for that using SMS paints... based on "spearmint green" pearl and "clear aqua".. I have thrown some "teal" into that to get the contrasting darker colour... report and pix as I work through this one. Further, I do not like my models "sitting" on their tyres. Every one I have (nearly 70, maybe more) - I have made platforms for them to sit on.. with the tyres clear. The Revo cars have gone one further, and I am making up wooden floors for the boxes - I do not like the factory supplied cardboard base... My wooden floors are made from 7 mm ply and routed out where tyres/motor and guide foul.... the floor is elevated by some 5 mm Tasmanian Oak quad.. Might do a report on this as well .... some time, if anyone is interested.. Ok... just thought it time to put these up... they were completed a couple of weeks back... none of my new cars have seen a track yet.. maybe in just under two weeks - our usual annual set up here for Bathurst (late this year). frats, Rosco
  32. 1 point
    Referance the IPS proxy i competed in this for the last few years and in my opinion this was the best proxy, well run by Alexis and such fun to follow your car from Greece, to Canada with a few stops inbetween, always a lot going on what with so many pictures , and comments. The cars were all great some lovely classic cars were entered in that , and from a personal point it seemed i could build pretty good IPS cars , have a couple of trophys sitting on the shelf here, but the main problem now apart from covid would be the cost of sending cars around parts of the globe, and customs, possibly it could become a one country proxy, i actually thought about it here but lack tracks. So perhaps those days are gone and the only type of proxy possible is actually a single country like Paul is running , but you still need tracks and people to enter it
  33. 1 point
    no enters corner before the bridge
  34. 1 point
    Probably because it has a nice big arse .......
  35. 1 point
    I'd like to send a big thank you to @NimROD444. A bit late in posting something but I have been busy with "non slot car" things and it's better late than never. The print of the Bluebird has a lot of detail I like, little things ie the internal rear view mirror and the dash top. Very light body that I will either put a PCR Sierra, Shapeways or a Slot.it HRS chassis under it. Like all my cars (except about 5) the car won't be a shelf queen. Once I get the Bartlett car and Dicky's XD finished this will be pushed up the production line (Ihave about 30 plus bodies waiting to be built) as this car is one I have wanted for a long time. Now to track down the George Fury livery.
  36. 1 point
    1/32 SRT Viper GTS-R version RS Line SuperSport We continue with the most racing range with two versions of the Viper Exchange participating in the 24H Daytona 2015. Fastest and most efficient mechanical setup on track!
  37. 1 point
    And got a couple of them onto the track: http:// http:// http://
  38. 1 point
    I haven't even looked at what's going on at the front of the grid! I suppose we all proxy for different reasons. This year I am data gathering (in the absence of performance!) and next year I will be hoping for improvements on this year, and the year after I hope to be turning down all your requests for how I managed to beat all these racers on their home tracks.
  39. 1 point
    on offset gears, Put the same color paint dot as the regular gears.
  40. 1 point
    Perversely, I admire your laziness Slot.it website has 30 pages of "mechanical spares" and no search facility, so here you go... Pink 23 Green 24 Orange 25 Blue 26 Black 27 Yellow 28 Violet 29 Red 30 The offset gear set are all white so you don't have any other option than to count them. AlanW London
  41. 1 point
    G'day all, a few little additions to keep me amused while I await a deliver for a major scenic update....to follow soon hopefully... The pub corner needed a little beer garden I thought, basic fence & bench seating kit from miniart fit the bill: http://
  42. 1 point
    Steve Ogilvie. Google and look for the slotblog link. It is a long thread and contains simular information to what you've already found. For my track building journey I used Mr. Ogilvie's teachings and it worked out very nicely in all aspects of the build, not just the banking. 1/8 guide width works fine for modern cars on my track. I didn't need to cut wider slots for 1/24 Carrera, plafit, brm or anything 1/32 I know of. I suspect your old school Cox etc should also be fine but i don't own any and don't remember how wide the guides are. I have an 85 degree corner banked at 30°, and a 190 degree corner banked around 25°. In both cases this is quite steep and the 30° corner is taken flat out by maybe half my cars. My vernier tells me the greatest discrepency in guide width is under 1/3mm; around 10% (2.9mm vs 3.175mm unbanked). This tightest measurement is on a 115mm diameter corner at 25°, the inside lane. On the same corner the outside lane reads 3.2mm, which is most likely my router skills (or lack thereof). Use ratchet straps to pull the bank in, you'll be surprised what mdf will tolerate. I didn't score the back of my corners and based on my results consider it perhaps a matter of personal choice as when researching I saw simular results with and without. Of course cut the slots and braid rebates prior to distorting the mdf to ensure consistent depth of slot and braid recess. For the record my track was built between March and May this year using 12mm mdf. Also search here for pretzel logic, that track will show you what mdf will do.
  43. 1 point
    DM the lap times increased after running the silicons because the car had Less grip. It was run on the Electric Dreams track.
  44. 1 point
    Just in case someone else reports this problem I did solve the issue by replacing the relay. Not sure why but when I installed a new relay everything works as it should Charlie
  45. 1 point
    Hi folk, wow, have I hit the deck running - seven cars lined up on my workbench all demanding they get closer to completion.. and another three to come - what have I done? Whilst we were up north, I ordered an NSR GT40 mk 2... I am very impressed with NSR models, and I expect there will be more to come... I had a good look at how it was set up ex factory, and something just wasn't right - I could not get module/chassis float when the chassis was fitted to the body, but it was fine on the bench minus body. I took a very close look for anything which may have been fouling - and sadly, NSR have made the exact same mistake that I suffered with all my Slot-It GT40's... that blasted plastic engine and intake manifold - it fouls the motor pod.. As you can see in the pic above, the tab melt method of fitting components did not allow much room to decrease the depth of the plastic engine/intake... There certainly wasn't enough clearance to be gained by simply chomping into the body of it... so, my plan was to remove it and do some trimming - then fit it further up into the body... Another area which needed attention was the power leads to the motor - they were first point of contact between the pod and the body.... I de-soldered and re-fitted them so that the leads and terminal were not proud of the motor body... We can see in the pic below, that the factory placement sits very low in the body - and this fouls the chassis motor and pod... In the pic below, we can see that I have attacked the plastic severely, just barely avoiding breaking through to what will be visible through the rear window of the model. I have also cut away the front mount and opted to fit it flush with the body cowl, rather than have it mounted underneath - this combination gave me sufficient clearance for the motor and pod to float within the adjustment I have set this model up with... So, here we have the side-one pic with motor fitted... and if you compare the first pic to this one - you'll note that a considerable amount of adding clearance needed to be emplaced... So, with a bit of work adjusting float and truing in the tyres... this model is pretty much good to go - it did need a bit of work but I believe it will be one of the best performing GT-40's that I have... the bottom dwellers are the two Scalextric ones I purchased when I re-entered the hobby seven or eight years back... what was I thinking - a second hand "mint" GT-40 I "won" at auction... and paid $85 delivered from W.A....... Scalextric - it has never run correctly, nor did the one I bought direct from a retailer shortly after... then - I found Slot-It, and so commenced a long affair with collecting SI GT40's... eventually building a white kit one that I call "Godzilla" - almost impossible to drive - huge motor, very low gearing... I've learned a bit since way back then.... Ok... one down - 9 to go. Currently on the bench are three NSR 86/89 F1's, two NSR Moslers, a Mr Slotcar McLaren M6A, two T/slot McLaren Elva's, a T/Slot Lola T70, a Revo-Slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit, two Revo Porsche 911 GT2's, a Revo Dodge viper and of course - work continues on the LJ XU-1 build.. it has to be completed before Bathurst next year - the 50th anniversary of when PB took it over the finish line to claim his first Bathurst in 1972.. Ok, guess I'm back.... frats, Rosco
  46. 1 point
    Due December
  47. 1 point
    Nice looking car and great to be able to fold the top down too. Currently weighing up the pros and cons of selling our MX5 and replacing it with a ready to roll, road legal MGTF kit car. ps ... welcome aboard.
  48. 1 point
    It would also been nice if there were lights in the top beacon and in the tail pipe.
  49. 1 point
    Gary Cannell from MRE in the UK commissioned some matching Robin figures. Having retired, his inventory is now in the hands of Pendleslot, so maybe they will surface there.
  50. 1 point
    The thought occurs to me that an elevated image might be in order.
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