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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  2. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  3. 3 points
    Sometimes even old Auslot gets some scoop information and this one is an Aussie ripper. At the time one of the most hated race cars in Australia as it hurt our poor little feelings when the thoroughbred Nissan Skyline GTR beat our own Holden Commodore and England's Ford Sierra but now an icon in it's own right. Ah the good old days when racing cars looked like road cars with stickers. Thanks Mauricio for thinking of us and Armchair Racer for the scoop information. No release date yet but keep your eyes and wallets open for this one as I have already put in my order.
  4. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  5. 2 points
    Like most of us, I have tuned a lot of slot cars over the years. Some go great from the get go. Some don't. Some I get frustrated with and put away in the storage drawer to be revisited another day. My frustrations are usually based around one of the performance brands - NSR /Slot It / Thunderslot. They should be straight forward and very easy to tune, but some cars just won't play ball and track performance isn't up to par. They aren't as fast or smooth as I know they should be, so in the drawer they go to be looked at another day. Weirdly, when I pull them out of the drawer (usually after in a few weeks time), they sometimes run far better - even though nothing has been done to them. A recent Sideways Toyota Celica is a case in point. When first built, gear mesh was good and the completed car felt 'free' and supple on the bench, but it was a dog on the track; lumpy and erratic under full power. I ran it at a club night and it was fast but jumpy; far from what I was looking for. Fast forward a month and I pulled it out of the drawer to tune it again, and it's a silky smooth runner that corners like it's on rails. My fastest car, a NSR Mosler, was built for the 2017 NZ Nationals. It was never a good car and consequently was never raced in anger. I spent hours on that bloody thing but eventually gave up on it. Mid way through last year I thought I'd have another go, but tested it it straight out of the drawer first. It started lapping my track right on record equalling pace. Weird, right? Am the only one who has seen this happen? I don't think my car storage drawers have secret tuning capability, but something's going on. Is the chassis 'relaxing' over time and does that somehow equate to a better drive and faster times? Are the tyres coming on under 'hibernation'? I have no clue. And before anyones asks, no you can't rent space in my storage drawers, and no, they aren't for sale.
  6. 2 points
    From MRE SCALEXTRIC BATMOBILE - you will all have noticed that this car comes with Batman but NO Robin ! Disgraceful - but there may be an answer. Today I have had discussions with the relevant people and can have a ROBIN figure created to go in the Scalextric car. I am happy to proceed with this if there is enough interest. Cost uncertain at the moment, and it would be supplied unpainted, but it would certainly complete the car. Please show your interest on the MRE Facebook page, or email to MRE directly at mre@mre.co.uk if you would be interested in a ROBIN figure for your Batmobile.
  7. 2 points
    We are back shipping from Monday, after a bit of a holiday over Christmas. I am pleased to announce that we are now distributors for Atalaya decals. Atalaya are based in Spain and produce over 1,500 decal sets, most of them livery accurate to a model, plus around 40 generic sets, and sets for NSR 86/89 cars and Policar Monoposto cars. We have begun with stocking most of the generic sets, and the sets for the monoposto cars - which are 2 sheets, or "wrap" style plus individual decals. We will bring in any specific customer order decals to order with re-stock orders. Check out their full range HERE
  8. 2 points
    Ok - we're about to shoot some colour..... but! My chosen Holts "radiant red" is of no use to me over Tamiya grey primer.... and I'm not prepared to attempt to spray an auto lacquer over the model so that I can... or it could very well result in the same disaster..... the thinners in the automotive paint are way too aggressive for the Tamiya paint... and I would further more than likely risk it fusing into the Tamiya putty beneath.... we would then be three weeks back to building up the putty.... not going to happen. I did some testing prior to mixing the paint up.... and have been saved despair. This testing clearly revealed that the automotive paint would have penetrated the primer - and putty.... so - it's out.... I am now in a conundrum as to paint again... but I believe I have come up with a solution. In the process of laying down a number of test patches inside the model - to compare the results over Tamiya grey primer - I have found that the Tamiya "red" acrylic - X-7 is not too far off the mark.. not as close as radiant red, but it's maybe only a hue or shade too "cyan" than it..... The radiant red breakdown was C 2, M 99, Y 100 and K 1..... the Tamiya X-7 is C 17, M 100, Y 100 and K 9...... Patto's ink is C 8m M 99, Y 100, K 1... so, what we have is just a tad more cyan in our Tamiya X-7.... and it will marry perfectly with both the Tamiya primer and putty.... The pic below reveals what would have eventuated if I'd gone ahead and sprayed up automotive paint (thinners, actually - the paint would have been fine)... The A9-X is at left, the underside of the LJ centre and the L-34 at right. As you can see, the paint used on both the A9-X and L-34 are very close to the Tamiya red (if not what was used at the factory in China).It's not as dark as I would like.. and I'm not going to mess with adding tint to it..... a nightmare, if ever I need to repair the paintwork... and small batches of "mix" simply don't stay matched for long periods. The six test strips inside the model, from left are.... Tamiya Mica Red in lacquer, Tamiya Red in lacquer, Tamiya X-7 red, Radiant red with lacquer thinners, Radiant red with Tamiya thinners, Radiant red as it was decanted out of the aerosol. You can clearly see that the last three have penetrated the grey primer.... resulting in a very much darkened outcome... I fear this penetration will also extend into the putty - and I am not going to risk that... Pic... So, we are going to mix up our X-7 with lacquer thinners and lay down a few coats until I get coverage.... hopefully, the Tamiya system will bring a satisfactory result.... I'm not planning on this being the final coat before decals, but we should get a fair indication of how the layers will settle down... Back later - exciting, isn't it? frats, Rosco
  9. 2 points
    Guessing it's another month until they do the Australian only releases. Hoping for: Grice Craven Mild A9X Rutherford/Guthrie A9X - would probably sell well in the US as well. Bartlett Camaro Z28 but may require too many alterations to make it look similar Brock, Seton or Bond Sierras Street toranas to run alongside the Falcons.
  10. 2 points
    Shaynus I have found 2 Scalextric XY/XW chassis in my spares boxes. PM sent. Oldskool62 I don't have any insider knowledge into the thought processes of slot car manufacturers but I'd suggest that for some establishing a spare parts inventory isn't high on their list of priorities. With many models having a defined production limit it is possible that the number of components produced is just enough to satisfy the production run, but there may be a small 'margin' to allow for quality control problems. However, the fact that it seems almost mandatory to equip each car with at least one 'wonky wheel' raises some doubt any quality control 'margin'. Perhaps the budget manufacturers are clever enough to realise that we 'serious enthusiasts' will source our spare parts from the up-market companies. Den
  11. 2 points
    Car 19 will be the same as entered in 2019 . 1962 Lotus 24 Climax . Body from PPL ,wheels PPS , rear tyres MJK , gears Slot it 9:23 , guide Slot it , Chassis by PeterD . Motor SRP18 .
  12. 2 points
    Ok Shayne, just a few pix especially for you, but others may be interested in some of my little arsenal of tools for modeling... To start with - two pix of the two scalpels I use... pretty much Exacto blades in a #1 pen tool holder. The one at top is the tool I go to for very fine work.. scribing lines, delicate cutting away of very fine areas. It has been honed down to about 1/3rd thickness of the original blade. The shape of the cutting edge has been formed naturally by the honing process of the edge. What you can't see, is just how sharp this invaluable tool is.... it is sharper than razor sharp - one slip with this and you are through to the bone and probably into it. Not only is the main cutting edge razor sharp - but so to the back, which is also honed.... this is the edge I use for "gouging" backwards once a track has been established by the cutting edge. The side of the blade is honed as well... so that it does not grab or drag if need to go deep into a cut. You can see by the extreme point of this that it means business - and simply has to be treated with the utmost care - let one of your fingers go beyond the safety of the handle or grip... and you will cut... and deep. One thing this blade will not do for long - is hold its edge... it has to be kept regularly honed up to be effective for purpose. This is not so hard to do, because the blade is so thin - it only takes a few passes over a diamond stone and we have that amazing edge ready again for work. It will not take any abuse.. being so thin, it will either break off (which I do regularly) or blunt if pushed beyond light cuts... not that you'd want to put any weight behind this - if it snaps - you'll more than likely fall victim to whatever is left of the blade as you hand leaps forward... it is absolutely sharp, and I would not recommend anyone hone one up unless you are fully prepared to treat it with the utmost of respect... The lower scalpel is pretty much a stock Exacto blade.. but I have honed it up. I have kept the original thickness of this blade for the heavy lifting work of cutting... I hone this blade as well... but keep it thick and usually only use a 600 or 800 diamond stone .... never to the 1000 one used for my fine scalpel.. it simply won't hold the edge long enough to be effective for more than a few cuts... so, we leave this blade with a rougher face - which is more tolerant of being pressed and worked hard. Pic.. Second pic below shows the thickness of the blade... the standard one below gives contrast to that of the fine work one.... as you can see, this fine one has virtually no body at all from 2/3rds of the way along the blade... the end and tip are almost as sharp if moved sideways as it is downwards. The rear of the blade is also honed... for gouging... so - any finger which gets near any of the front of this blade will be cut... and deep... And the final scalpel I have - is an "actual" scalpel.. a medical surgeon's one.... If ever you happen to chance on getting one of these - they are simply brilliant. I don't know what the steel is, but it hold its edge for just so long... compared to probably what the rest are that come out of China.... or similar. The surgeon's scalpel is oddly shaped - but practical for many jobs. The but of this blade fits into a tool that I don't know... it is very odd shaped. My suspicion is that nothing but one of these blades will fit the tool - and the fitting of any other type of blade simply can't be used in surgery.... other than that, I'm clueless. I use this blade mainly for decals and making very sharp lines in masking tape... And before long, someone is going to ask me to put some pix up of other tools I use for bodywork and painting.... I threw most of what I use onto my desk and will explain them below the pic.... Across the top, there are 7 of my "rubbing blocks". Stainless steel backing with neoprene rubber glued to them. All of these are wrapped with various grades of wet and dry paper... sometimes I use them wet - other times, dry.. depending on what I'm blocking down. I use either side of them depending on the surface required... if it must be plate finish flat - it's the steel.. if there has to be some slight curve in a panel - I use the rubber side. I have made the thickness of the rubber so that sufficient paper can be wrapped around it... mainly to be comfortable between my fingers as I work the panel... The seven different sizes are, of course - for different sized areas... The entire process is not too far removed from an auto panel shop.. if you want a plate finish in a panel - you have to work the surface down to get it.. and you have to have an equally matching surface on your tool to achieve it... Keeping your paper clean is just as important as the tool itself... it it even get remotely clogged.. you'll gouge tram tracks into your finish... so, I usually go wet and keep it clean .... any grinding causes immediate stop of work.. and it's usually a number of paint spots which have bonded together ..... paper change.... or damage.. Next below are some of my straight edges.... I use these a lot to get straight lines. I am not ashamed to admit I often use blue tack to hold these in place... laying them onto a painted or plastic surface and expecting one hand to hold them in place whilst the other one is armed with a very sharp blade... not going to happen. so - I put a dab of blue tack over the "top" of the tool to hold it in place... not under it..... or we risk the edge coming up away from the work while we move the blade along.... You can see one of the edges I used on the tail-lights of the Torana.... it's actually painted in Floquil "rust"... I used it as a stirring stick - and the paint "stuck"... never bothered to clean it off. At one end of this tool, you can see that I have cut and ground out a notch ... the tool then laid on the bumper bar.. and this notch was used to run the horizontal lines across the top of the lights... at the other end, another notch... and this one was used when the tool was placed under the spoiler... allowing a straight edge along the bottom of the lights. I'm not afraid to make tools.. and never throw them away... I have a boxful.. from projects spanning decades... nearly all of them are stainless... or brass... they just "last". At bottom, we can see a few of my puttying tools... the smaller ends have been ground for my needs.... I particularly like the small triangle "ironing" one... it pushes putty into some very awkward places... the triangled shape of the rear of this tool allows me to "iron" in the putty and push it into shape.... being smooth, it comes away fairly easily without pulling off putty... and being so - is easily cleaned with some lacquer thinner.... On each side, are my little "icy pole" inventions..... I have containers of wooden icy pole sticks... and I use them for many things... Here, we can see that I have used some cyano to glue on some wet and dry paper... on drop, and roll the paper around the stick keeping it in close contact... when the cyano goes off - simply cut away the excess and you have a four edged sanding stick... Cutting the stick down to size to get into tight spots (like the quarter vents in the Torana) makes it easy to work in tight places... You can simply add more paper over the worn out bit.. but I usually just go find another stick.... cheap, but they work. If ever you want to get a mirror finish on paint.... go to your auto paint supplier and ask for some 2500 grit wet and dry, whilst you are there - get some 1500 and 2000 as well.... Use the rubbing blocks and work the surface back and forth.... for finite work, you can also add just a smidge of dishwashing liquid to lubricate the paper.. but it will slow the cutting process. Remember - if you "feel" or "hear" anything when you are rubbing - stop... you will be "gouging" your work... And to bring up a final mirror finish to this process... go get some Tamiya polishing compound.. I have it in two different grades.... a coarse and a fine. I like to work the finish up by hand, but it's not rare for me to fit a calico wheel to the Dremel and buff a finish up that way.... just be warned, too fast or too much pressure and you will destroy the paint.... the film of paint on a model should be wafer thin... so, we don't have a lot to work down through... Applying more paint to be able to work up a finish by applying more pressure is defective logic... you simply are only filling in precious detail... you will get the finish you want regardless of how thick the paint is... the thinner you can keep the entire process - the more difinitive will be your detail.... we are not "weather proofing" a model with a coating... it's never going to stay out in the sun and rain for weeks on end... but, it will get a workout with "marshall's" mitts and the odd "off"... so, our top coat should be fairly resilient.. not necessarily meaning "thick"... Ok.. that should do it for now... happy to answer any questions.... frats, Rosco
  13. 2 points
    Progress has been slow to say the least, but, the body is finished...... This is an AMT 1/24 Lola T70 from 1966,.....the kit was somewhat incomplete, so i did make/replace a few bits (apologies to the purists),..but,..I did invariably modify my cars as a kid, so, I can live with it The chassis is not done yet, and I will post a shot in a couple of days when completed. Cheers,..and Happy New Year Chris Walker The colour is Tamiya "Champagne" gold, and although this is a fantasy livery, it does look like it could belong on a 65/66 USRRC/CanAm Lola. The gauges do look quite realistic, despite my crummy photo. I have made a small aluminum rear lip spoiler......debating on whether to stick it on. The wheels are not original,.....they are Russkit Lola T70 1 piece cast aluminum......gorgeous !! And the yet unfinished AMT chassis,.....a few wire braces, a brass front axle tube, and a much modified AMT 36D motor.
  14. 2 points
    Hi folks, I have posted on a different forum my latest work in miniaturising digital slot car decoders. And thought I should post a quick summary here too. As a hobbyist venture I have built functioning SSD-compatible digital decoders with dimensions of 10.8mm by 5.4mm. The thickness is 4.4mm. The decoders have motor/brake circuits and change lanes and count laps on SSD. I am now working on smaller designs... next a 8mm x 5mm design... then smaller still c [my handle on slotform is Dr_C... but not everyone likes doctors including me ... so renamed myself as c-type... after my favourite racing jag]
  15. 2 points
    As promised - pix in khaki etch primer. We can now see where work is to be done.. the etch primer reveals some of the voids and areas which need further work. It's a bit hard to see this when the contrasting shades of putty, cast resin and previous sanded down primer draws attention away from detail or blemishes... Primer will go on next, then we'll start work on correcting the flaws.... hopefully, by the end of next week - we'll be in a solid Radiant red colour - ready for decals. Pix.....Australian Army livery of the LJ XU-1... The benefit of metho based etch primer, along with it not being aggressive on putties... is that it dries very quickly - a light coat can be primed in as little as 30 minutes after spraying... Ok.. back later with some more progress.. frats, Rosco
  16. 2 points
    Let me know if you want a couple of motors and where you are? Once I have the Morris Torana running I am going to trial it with a 28 crown gear to see how the braking is. As mentioned this motor has a little more grunt than the SRP but isn’t like the Scalextric FF which is just too much in my opinion. I ran my Brock Torana against my Moffat race tuned Falcon when my son was down the other day and they were a good match. The Falcon had a little more legs down the straight but the Torana had better braking so they were reasonably even. Looked good running around together.
  17. 2 points
    Ok folk, Wasn't happy with first grille - 0.42 mm brass is too thick. Not to mention, when I was doing my final file/sand - four of the verticals inside the grille fell out... I got them all back in, but it's a mongrel of a job to do... fiddly as all heck. I think in my mind then, I was already working on revision 1 - and a better way of cutting the parts and assembling them.. I found some 0.25 mm brass shim sheet and decided I'd have a go at cutting the 12 pieces needed out of that. This time, I decided that I'd fit the verticals in from the rear. The issue with doing so from the front is that the excess has to be sanded off - and any of these bars which did not get soldered properly to the horizontals will simply fall out when the main body is removed.... which I found out. So - some pix... Here is the 0.25 mm brass shim marked out through some engineer's "blue". I have used a jeweller's saw to slit the verticals. In future, should I ever do this again - I will be more precise with the slits. It was during assembly that I realised some of them weren't straight - and I had to fit them into a vice and re-slit them. All but two were rectified. As you will see in later pix, two of them simply refused to go in where needed, resulting in the upper horizontal not running parallel with the rest in two places. I am not going to disassemble this to correct it, and will have to live with it - the next one will be more accurate. We have cut out the 12 parts. You can see that I have left the excess on the front of the horizontals - this is for positioning into slits in a wooden jig I made... to get the rake of the grille correct. In this pic, we can see the horizontals fitted into the slits of the jig.... and the depth of the slits to set the rake... And here we have the assembled grill - complete with Holden badge. It was a bit tricky to make that little piece up. I ended up using a pair of surgical clamp pliers to hold it whilst I profiled the shape. It is angled back each side from centre and there is a slight bevel on all edges. Getting it to solder in place took considerable time, effort and patience - I don't know ho many times I re-positioned it, only to find it wasn't either centre, square on to the front of the model or set far enough back.. but, I got there... And here we have the original and revision 1... I believe it well worth the effort to use the 1/4 mm shim sheet.... I'm pretty happy with the result, but disappointed in those two upper sections not being parallel to the other horizontals.... next time... To change ends of the model - I am re-working the rear... I have re-profiled the rear number plate and removed the front one altogether - as was the case with PB's Bathurst car. I will fill those unsightly gouges I put into the tail-lights somewhat with thinned down putty.. and straighten them up. This will leave them picked out, but not as deep. I am hoping to paint around the trim of these with as close a paint as I can get to chrome... I have also started work on the front - it's not quite right.... mainly the height of the bonnet and guards at front... and also the headlight surround areas... I have filed and sanded these down and am struggling to get the exact profile using putty.. I'll get close, but I fear the casting has the surrounds set too far forward to get the slightly "hooded" look over the headlights ... I should get a lot closer than the casting... but don't believe I'll get exact to the proto-type.. and I really don't want to make up a new "face" to fit.... I believe the grille and these little "adjustments" will bring the model pretty close to proto - but any Torana owner/enthusiast will more than likely pick my failures... So, this model is about to go into its second year on my workbench... from experience, whether it's a locomotive or slot car - my scratch building seems to take me around three months of actual work... we haven't got near the chassis yet - my lathe still awaits attention to fit the replacement spindle bearings... maybe when I get colour onto the body - we'll go to the lathe next... although I have two locomotives on my bench awaiting attention as well.... Don't retire, folk - you won't have time to spare..... frats, Rosco
  18. 2 points
    Day 5 29th Dec 2020Programming PCB.The F1 car chip has 4 tiny pads for programming to save space. To quickly align the programming pins a custom set up is manufactured to not only make sure programming is fast and easy but also reliable.Here’s the PCB that John designed. The files have been sent off to a company that specialises in rapid turn around PCBs only.John will add a few components by hand here.Day 6 onwards will be a waiting game.
  19. 2 points
    Day 4 Friday 18th Dec 2020, paperwork and files, BOM etc sent to 3 different manufacturers for quoting. No hand assembling or cottage industry assembly here, only high end electronics assembly robots can do this job.Rick
  20. 2 points
    Day 2 and 3.... Success! John has, in just 2 days designed the worlds smallest car decoder. Size is just 10x5mm Another world first for Team Scorpius! Next stage is create manufacturing files for production. Rick
  21. 2 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I have been working on several projects in parallel making it impossible to finish any of them for some time.Here is the first one completed (well inserts are missing) ,3dp printed chassis and motor pod for Renault R8 SCX
  24. 1 point
    Here's a post proxy review of the top 5 cars starting with equal 4th place, Brumos. The other 4th placed car - Dave P. A well deserved 3rd place goes to Aloha. Despite me bribing the drivers (see Round 12 video of the race with my car and 32coupe's) this car still managed to beat me for total wins in the Proxy. 32coupe managed 6 wins to my 5 and finished the Proxy in 2nd place. And on to the winning car. What can I say, it's mine, it's quick and surprised me with it's dominant performance throughout the proxy with a 3rd place being it's worst result over 12 rounds. As you can see, 5 cars and 5 ways to make them fast. Don't ask me for the secret to building a winning proxy car because if I knew I'd build all my cars like this. Let me know if anyone wants more info. Cheers Paul
  25. 1 point
    North BRIS Slots have branched out into 3D printing and have a huge list of cars they are able to print. Message them on Facebook, they have another page that is just related to 3D printing on Facebook "NBS3d Printed Slot Car Bodies, Parts and Accessories"
  26. 1 point
    So I get an email confirmation today that my order for the Skyline is official and due in August September this year. I am very much looking forward to this one and will have to get some Scalextric Sierra’s and M3’s set up with Olifer chassis in preparation.
  27. 1 point
    Is this news ? haven't we had a "push to pass button" for donkeys years ? i think the button is known by another name in some places though........accelerator sounds familiar.
  28. 1 point
    We jabber more than a team of Ozzie cricket sledgers......
  29. 1 point
    Too much spare time on entrant's hands, Alan..... it should be put to better use modeling... My 2c frats, Rosco
  30. 1 point
    The elevations were a combination of an MDF stone wall & laser printed sheets of rock wall (very quick, but OK for the short term : Sneak peak of the Longford Pub in the background !
  31. 1 point
    I'd love to have masked and spray the white, Shaynus - which would have demanded that I spray white first, and over coat with red.... always, dark over light when masking. The only reason I have decided against doing my own "work" - is the very fine pin striping that Patto has provided in his decals.... He has deleted the red ink from the decals - hence why I have sprayed the model red.... When the decals are applied over the red base..... the pin striping will show through... in red - obviously, the deleted ink simply is clear film..... the white of the decal is going to be my "panel" work... how it comes up over my work I am yet to find out. We have a long way to go before we look at decals.... I am ever hopeful, that this model will be a kind reflection of the car it is attempting to replicate in scale.... we'll see. Just a bit disappointed at present - that will all change when I address this paint issue... I'll overcome it, just means a bit of work.... probably saw the result before I commenced the paint process... vision, eh?... might have had my "rosco" blinkers on... thanks for your kind words - and yes, some would simply fit a chassis under this result and enjoy putting in a few laps.... might have to keep the model moving, we wouldn't want to risk anyone actually focusing on it..... frats, Rosco
  32. 1 point
    Well, those photos go a long way to show the gulf in our standards Rosco. You are resigned to redoing, where I would be rapt with that result! Back to reality, are you planning on masking and painting the white areas of the car, or will they be decals?
  33. 1 point
    The Jag XJ-S that raced at Bathurst would be on my list too! This is going to be an expensive year, and that is before the Australian releases...
  34. 1 point
    You would think there would be money to be made from it, but I guess parts are an overhead until sold and do take up storage space. If there was money to be made I guess they would do it? I can design and print chassis if needed, but for the particular rules at my local club genuine manufacturer chassis need to be used.
  35. 1 point
    I'll start posting the cars back next week. With a bit of luck I can find your original box and post back to the sending address.
  36. 1 point
    Holly slot car Batman, Scalextric are doing the Batmobile! Sorry, someone had to say it... Looks like it is going to be an expensive year for me... (KITT from Knightrider too!)
  37. 1 point
    Hopefully we get a TWR Jaguar in the Australian collection, being that they're making the Percy/Walkinshaw 1984 Spa 24hr winning Jaguar.
  38. 1 point
    You are correct Den,..if motors screws are used (on the can end and on the rear bulkhead of the pod).....adapters are absolutely not required. If the particular pod does not have screw holes, they can easily be drilled, or the motor can be glued in with ShoeGoo/E6000 etc, with zero fear of failure, regardless if you are situating the motor in a can end or endbell drive configuration. Thousands of motors have been attached to motor brackets with screws only over the last 50+ years,......and many many racers currently employ this method. Cheers Chris Walker All of the following pics. are of cars that went through rather long proxies (10+ rounds) with absolutely no issues. An FC-130 secured via motor screws only,...in a "longcan" pod And another....... A FC-130 in a "longcan" anglewinder pod........motor screws,....no adapter A heavily reworked (very fast/lots of torque) 26D motor in a Vintage Champion chassis......motor screws only, and, on the endbell end An FC-130,.........this one just glued in with E6000/ShoeGoo stuff. If you have an overwhelming desire to purchase/use a motor adapter, be my guest, but, they are totally unnecessary !!
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    NSR Ultra Grips are pretty close I always thought.
  41. 1 point
    Made myself a tacho test rig.
  42. 1 point
    Just about to reach another milestone in the build.... paint. I was never happy with the front of this model... the headlights are positioned too far forward and the surrounds are grossly over-sized and poorly shaped.... I have spent over a week on this alone.. and still not 100% happy with my efforts. Over that week, I have had the front of my LJ looking like so many different cars.. from a Cortina, HJ Kingswood and to a Hillman Hunter - there really isn't much difference in any of these models from the LJ... subtle little changes, but they make a huge difference for anyone who has intimate recall of said vehicles. I simply couldn't get the "hooded" look of the front of the guards over the headlights.. and it took a quite a few goes until I realised it was the position of the headlights themselves which continually put me into error... I am pretty much resolved that this is probably as close as I will get - without spending another week or more to get some miniscule discrepancies out of the result... I will now drill out and ream the headlights - having them set much further inside the surrounds - this will make a huge difference to the look of the model. Final pix before I took it out to the spray booth this evening and laid down a good number of 1K etch coats.... doing this, I find - prevent the Tamiya fine putty from being attacked by the following solvent based primer coats... I use a model railway etch called "Steam Era Models - grey etch".. metho based, very fine pigment... no pix of it in etch, but they will come tomorrow. As previously stated - I picked out the detail in the rear tail-light area, and wasn't happy with the direction my scalpel was drawn... it resulted in ugly lines which were nowhere near straight... Putty wasn't giving me the result I wanted, so I bit the bullet and drilled/filed out the tail-lights then made up some replacement lenses from styrene card... the indicator lenses were salvageable and I'm pretty happy with the end result... by the time the etch and primer coats go on and are sanded down - it should come up pretty reasonable... We can see here that the original huge rear number plate has been removed and just a small flat section has been provided - if you look at Brock's Bathurst car, you'll see that this is a pretty close match. I believe I'm getting close to what I want out of this model... I have made considerable changes to the front section, which was not originally planned. I am yet to cut and gouge out the cast in grille - and fit the brass replacement. I will do this after the brass one has been cleaned and coated in zinc chromate (which I still have a little left for these purposes). And finally, here is the replacement grille laying in front of the cast one.. I believe this will make a more lifelike model... The model sits in karhi green tonight (anyone like to see an LJ XU-1 in drab matt army colour?).... maybe put up a pic tomorrow.. looks "weird".. Until next, frats, Rosco
  43. 1 point
    I'll definately be grabbing this one, love it will be great to race it against my Brock car
  44. 1 point
    No need to buy compressed air even without a compressor. A workmate picked up an old spare wheel that was passed its best for nicks and painted many model aircraft with that and a quick trip down to the local garage would replenish his air supply for a while.
  45. 1 point
    Yes Max, Dad and I have all flown all forms of modelling together over the years, hes an active member of the Barossa model aircraft club at Rowland flat, he spoke at Dads funeral, a out all sorts of cool topics in their life long friendship
  46. 1 point
    Bump... we're back. 4 months up north in Qld escaping the winter and troubling virus down here in Vic.. timing was perfect. Ok.... we probably need to pick up a bit from where we left off. I have now ordered some different tyres - I was not in love with the wide tyres in these builds, and have ordered two sets for the 13" Cortina.... I will make up wheels to suit both the Munter inserts and these tyres... now that I believe I can achieve this My lathe is still in bits - having left the job when we made our dashed escape out of this state back in June.. so, I'll need to fit those tapered roller bearings to that and set it up before we can get to any wheel turning... I have chased up decal sets for both the LC and LJ XU-1's of PB... and they should arrive in the coming week - thanks Patto - really looking forward to getting an optic on these. Patto suggested I have the red deleted from printing - as I have chosen to do.... this will allow me to airbrush the LJ in white then mask up and spray the red.... the decals will finish this model off beautifully.... I hope. As for the LC - I will have to do quite a bit of research into this "kit bash" model... I know what I want - and it will be the HDT version of the LC... at this stage. Further, I have now ordered two of PB's A9-X Torana's.... I will change the livery of the second one to bring it in line with successive years that PB ran these cars. My Allan Moffat 1969 XW GTHO arrived... what where Scalextric thinking?... those wipers!.... have to go.... I have the three set now of '69, '70 and '71 of these great period winners... but, the wipers on all three will have to be made up and the "tree branches" removed... So folk - we're back... and I will have to get a footing on where I was before we left..... lots of work around the house, cleaning up the van and truck yet before I can commit to serious modeling - but, we're back on deck and I am very keen to return to modeling... frats, Rosco
  47. 1 point
    I might get a better result if you did forget mine! Have fun!
  48. 1 point
    Thought you might like a couple pictures of my track. If interested I have a few of how it was built too routed 4 lane wood with hydro all cast mountains, used as one of our 12 club race tracks for about 4 years in current state my first attempt at scenery etc so quite happy
  49. 1 point
    I do have a number of Munter bodies and Patto decals waiting for the time I can do them. At present it is 2 a year with the working life being so busy but as I am getting closer to 60 years old I know the time will come when I will have more time to spend on these.
  50. 1 point
    What is the world coming to?....it seems that plactic track design might be for plastic people.....I use paper and pencil to design a track.......but then I am an old fashioned git and know nothing.
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