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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2021 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Ok... just a bit more, I've placed an order for 6 different colours of their premium range, including high gloss. I did a bit of reading on the PDS and this paint is very volatile.... I would not recommend spraying it in a confined space.. .it has xylene, tolulene, naptha and also a small amount of MEK in it.... but, if you are after a hard shell finish as I am... I believe this "is" the paint.... Further, I was rather pleased to find that they also retail a Two Pack.... with isocyanide in it.... I have used this paint on our aluminium boat.. and I can tell you that once it cures out - the stuff is almost bullet proof. I would only be interested in the super gloss clear coat if I were to purchase any. Downside, it's $28 per kit.... comes with parts A and B plus thinners. Mix rates are standard for 2 pack... Once part B has been opened, it has a shelf life of 6 months.... so, if I were to go this way - I'd make sure I have a lot of models lined up to be sprayed within that period. It has a working time of 30 minutes, tack free in an hour and can be handled after 24 hours.... It is polishable and also re-coatable after blocking down.... pretty much your standard auto 2 pack, but with modeling pigment size.... I am particularly interested in their range of "colour shift" paint.... the effect is mystifying... the effect changing colour and hue as a light source is projected from different viewing angles.... we see this on some very trendy and expensive paint jobs that young folk have paid a house deposit for.... it might work for slot car modeling in a truly "fantasy" application... I have absolutely no idea how to apply it or any of the necessary preparation.... maybe someone here can enlighten us.... ? I have ordered some ceramic "scraping" blades.... designed for taking off mold lines of kit plastic parts... the ceramic blade is blunt, but used to run along on its flat edge ... obviously, the corners of this edge do the work... it might just save some embarrassing cuts that we all suffer when using a scalpel blade... OK.. think that's enough for anyone interested to chase this company up... not keen on shelling out between $300 and $600 for an "arty" storage system and a number of bottles of paint... think I'll just pick and choose what I want and suffer the shipping, which by the way - for 6 bottles of paint and the blades came to $12... if you are interested. frats, Rosco
  2. 1 point
    No, Shaynus - no issue with any bleeding. However, we must appreciate that any decal applied over a solid colour will change the hue of the decal - more so, if the decal is white or a light colour. The decals Patto supplied me were waterslide, at my request - I am old school, and prefer to work with materials I have experience with. The Patto waterslide decals are a lot thicker than many of those I have used before... as such, the white panels of them have considerable coverage. If you take a close look at the two pix I put up of my model, you can clearly see the difference between where I airbrushed Tamiya white acrylic with lacquer thinners mixed....... as opposed to the very slightly red "tinted" panels of the decal. These air-brushed white sections show up quite visibly around the windows as opposed to the decal panels along the sides. The top of the spoiler was also airbrushed and so too the tops of the front guards and along the nose.... This was all necessary due to the supplied decals being out of scale for my Munter cast model... I could possibly have added a tiny bit of black into my white mix... to produce what appears a grey in the decal, but but the time I have clear coated this a number of times to come yet... I believe it will produce a much closer marriage of the two differing whites... Again, I were to repeat this model - or re-do it - I am now firmly of the opinion that I would prefer to mask up and spray... laying the white base down first, masking up and then spraying the red over the white..... it is good painting practice to apply a darker colour over a light one... however, we all know how much I "love" red... as per previous comments.... Tamiya white is a very solid paint.. and it has given me considerable coverage... as opposed to Tamiya red... with this experience, I might go against common best practice and apply white over red... but, I would certainly prime the model in pink, rather than grey or any primer colour... red is a difficult paint for me - I like to spray thin..... and I also struggle with floor polish through an air-brush... This model has again been a learning curve.. in many regards... red paint, full body decals and floor polish... not to mention what is yet to follow - Molotow chome ink for some detail parts and the bumpers etc.... I most certainly would not to put people off attempting this model - I continue to believe I'll produce something which honors PB and his first win at the Mountain - the 50th anniversary of which will be next year... frats, Rosco
  3. 1 point
    Looking great Rosco. You have very high standards, which is not a bad thing, and helps shows to us novices what can be achieved. Did you have any issues with the red base colour bleeding through the white decals?
  4. 1 point
    Bump - Ok folk, The LJ is back on the desk bench and we've done a bit more after a slight deviation finishing off a Cooper for the upcoming Tasman Cup Proxy... So, what's been done since my last post in January... quite a bit paint wise. We had issues with getting lacquer to flow out over acrylic and it demanded a complete rub back and respray. We are now in acrylic with lacquer thinners, a week of flashing off for the thinners to come out, then three wet coats of clear lacquer.... pix.. From there, and I was very very happy with the lovely mirror finish I had finally achieved... we went to Patto's decals. I fully knew that my hard work with the red was going to be mainly hidden... but, I had achieved my goal.. and that finish is still under there. I didn't get any pix going through the process of decals.. but will describe what happened and show a couple of pix of the end result thus far. If anyone follows this project - when you come to ordering the PB HDT LJ decals - if you are using Munter's casting.... get Patto to scale them down to something around the 10% smaller.... the decals I ordered were his standard size - and they are very much over-size. This demanded that I cut and shut a lot of them... lining up the very fine pin striping, plus getting the main panels to line up on the body was a very long and painstaking process... Add into this, I had to airbrush some white in places... and this demanded masking up. Anyone who has used masking tape over decals will clearly state that this begs failure... the decals will simply come up with the masking tape... For as careful and using all my skills that I have learned, I still had three of them come up firmly stuck to the masking tape... I managed to dunk the tape (and decals) back into demineralised water for 10 min, then with the tape still in the water - used a very sharp (thanks donor) scalpel blade to "slice" them away from the sticky tape... without damaging them. I was able to re-apply them to the model and this time I set them in using Micro-scale Micro-sol (red label)... although Patto warns against using any setting agent. To be fair, I was not happy with the adhesion of decals to the ultra-glossy finish of the model... it did not take much for them to be lifted.. and it was not until I sprayed multiple coats of floor polish over them that I am convinced they will not lift again - just keep the model away from masking tape! Ok.. I have raised a debatable issue.... decal setting agent. The "Micro-sol" is the less aggressive of the three different Micro-scale setting agents I have. I did not risk the solution attacking the decal, but simply wetted the surface of the model and applied a demineralised wet decal over this... and immediately set it in place and pressed them down on the model using a very damp tissue folded over many times.... This process did not allow the decals to be subjected to any bedding by the Micro-sol.. but I believe it afforded them a much greater purchase in bonding to the glossy surface of my precious paint. Now we come to that floor polish again.. and again, I struggle with using it. I have tried brushing and air-brushing.. and it seems not to make any difference in application. The polish will not "flow out" like a paint from a brush or airbrush. Instead, it will either "pool up" or simply "flow" off and leave the decal uncovered. I had to apply many coats to achieve an overall wet and sealing cover.... this resulted, with tears almost forming in my eyes - of my very much prized mirror finish disappearing into a semi-gloss or satin finish.... as it sits now... I have made errors with these decals... but, my fault - I should have heeded Patto's advice to measure prior to ordering. However, how far "out" can one 1/32nd LJ Torana be from another.. not more than a mm or two... surely?... Sadly, such is not the case - and the decals that Patto might find exacting for his body - are very much over-size for the one Munter casts. My reckoning is that Munter's cast is pretty much on the money for size... if you measure wheel base and track.... my guess, is that perhaps there may be some factor I have not considered in the difference in the two suppliers' castings.... Some pix...of the model as it has now sat for a few days... the front and rear have not yet been attempted.. but the sides and upper surfaces have now been finalised in regards to decals... What we see here, is the applied decals with copious "flooded" floor polish.. it will need work... Overall, I am happy with the result - but there has been a huge amount of work to get to here with decals. Model wise - the decals are excellent.. the only one missing that I have found from the proto-type is the "CIG Gas" decal on the rear number plate area... the rest are all there, and well done. Patto's "black" is not as razor sharp as some of the commercially available decals - but they are very good... I am particularly impressed with Patto suggesting to delete the red ink from the main decals... and allow that of the red paint underneath to show through the clear "deleted" ink... it is an amazing result - well done, Patto... So, where do we go from here?... I will try to compound out the excess of floor polish where it has pooled up - leaving a "run like" over application, the worst of it on perhaps was the best of my compounding work of the lacquer clear coat.. those being the two rear side body panels to the roof.. they are terrible now, and I willwork them down... Once that is done, I will clear coat with one thin airbrushing of Tamiya clear acrylic... let that fully cure out for a week - then try a clear coat of Tamiya lacquer... probably only wet misting for the clear coat - and watch what happens to the finish. If that proves successful - I'll "wet" coat again with Tamiya lacquer clear... it dries very hard and is most suitable for slot car "work".... I don't like the acrylic.. or any of the Tamiya acrylic for that matter - on slot cars... it is too soft, and even after weeks of curing out - it is still possible to imprint a finger mark when handling... this is not the case with Tamiya lacquer clear...and - that great paint goes off very quickly.. it can be lightly handled within the hour - not that you would... or should... I'll make a start on the chassis next.. so, we'll see the first ever use of the scratch-builders plate.......... and undoubtedly, I'll be reporting on its use during the building of the chassis... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  5. 1 point
    New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter
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