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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Results of the first 2 lanes Some comments on the cars #98 she will catch you by surprise and roll #12 slides sideways under braking #28 Jag ditto #71 no grip #111 could use some more grip #99 was running reverse,,each time we had to switch track direction #20 pinion slipped.I have already fixed it but crown rotates out of round and I am afraid it is going to happen again It is the best grid since I took ever both performance wise and looks
  2. 1 point
    Well time flies when you are in lockdown. Can't believe it's been 2 months since I first posted this query. I reached out to a couple of suggested overseas contacts to see if they were interested in a decal project but got no reply, so figured they were too busy being in lockdown. So with time on my hands, I taught myself how to use Gimp and Inkscape( both freeware) to make decals. Amazing what you can find on You tube for "how to" lessons plus got some tips from a club member who is a longtime modeller ... thanks Paul! So with alot of Computer hours, trial and error, truck load of printer paper and printer ink, I designed a approximation of the above livery, printed it out on decal paper and created a test mule to see how proportions, colors etc looked. There are alot of things I will need to fix, tweak or change, lucky this car has a sister car, so that will be Mark 2 if I can motivate my self to do it all again! Things I learnt along the way: A Black car is hard to make decals for - the black just bleeds thru thin decals, changes decal colors Found that printed replicated "gold and silver" on decals is pretty much transparent and will just disappear if laid straight on black Any decals put on black needed a solid white base patch put down first ie was effectively laying 2 decals down Std white decal patches are still too thin on black - ended up using Patto's stickon white patches Patto's stickon patches are thicker than normal decals and not as flexible or shape conforming ie avoid door handles, body edges ..... For simulated gold or silver color logos, found printing on white decal paper better than clear but then needed to create a black box around each logo to block out any white background Black ink on decal is not the same shade as black paint, in fact can look a bit purple Don't OD on Testors Bonder when spraying your decals otherwise you will get runs Try to avoid getting top of decal wet when putting on your car as it will still run, even with 3 coats of decal bonder Do white cars next time Get someone else to make your decals! Been a interesting exercise, satisfying and frustrating, you need to be a bit OCD and the trouble is you know where all the mistakes are. I'm still looking for someone who can print real gold colors but need to fine tune my decals first for the Mark 2 version. The next post is a bit of a photo journal of decaling the test mule. Regards OrakeiRacer
  3. 1 point
    Thank you for the run congratulations to Sports Racer, ALS and Aloha. And to those who are happy with their result and better luck to those in round 4 who didn’t have the luck this week. If it’s ok to place a small piece of tape across the rear but allow movement on the rear of the body of Clio that would be great if it’s an issue no worries.
  4. 1 point
    Not much !!............the only difference between the 4846 and the 4847 is that the 4846 is for the older 124X motor pod in the "Classic" cars, which had a very small width difference of the plastic on the rear axle uprights, so , the measurement between the flanges of the 4846 is sized accordingly. The 4847 fits everything else. Just to clarify, NSR bushings are not technically "oilites" as they are not sintered, and therefore do not hold oil. For sprint or club racing this is not particularly an issue, as you can check/oil your bushings frequently, but, for proxies with multiple rounds, a "sintered" bronze bushing is the way to go. Folks do use "other" brands, and you will find most experienced racers prefer single flanged "sintered" oilites from the commercial slot world, from companies like, Champion, Mura, Slick 7, Koford etc. These offer the benefits of "Sintering, and are of much better quality (precision) than the stuff made by most plastic car manufacturers. An added benefit is that they cost significantly less. (Single flanged bushing/bearings must be glued into the chassis/pod). A quick word on bushings vs. ballraces...........I and most (all) use ballraces on our high end ( Eurosport, BSCRA, Wing etc.) cars, but these are high precision bits costing wwaayy more than those offered by the mainstream plastic car companies. Mediocre bearings contain cheaply made parts (races/balls/flanges) and many (most) have more slop than an oilite.......this is not the hot tip for quick laps/consistent handling, and unlike a sintered oilite, ballraces do not hold oil, which while not a big deal, do require frequent maintenance/oiling. Similarly, inexpensive ballrace motors contain cheap bearings, with the same issues as cheap axle ballraces. Over the years, it has been fairly well accepted that a well installed/aligned set of oilites will offer no real benefit over ballraces (especially those of average at best quality) other than in the very top level of commercial slot car racing. (Most commercial grade cars still use sintered oilites !!) If your rules allow, try a set of single flange sintered oilites (3/32 x 3/16) from one of the manufacturers listed above, align/glue them properly, and you will be miles ahead (both in terms of performance and dosh outlay ) vs. a mediocre pr. of ballraces. (You will invariably need to "open" the bushing holes in most pods to 3/16ths, but this is quite a quick and easy job). Cheers Chris Walker
  5. 1 point
    Hi Shaynus and Kevan. I am no NSR guru (or any other for that matter) as after several months of trying have just got my NSR Corvette going pretty well. My NSR Aston is still a work in progress and have had a lot longer. Both are AW's. At some stage have had both cars within about 0.2secs of Moslers but that gap remains. I tend to get so far then strip everything out and start again. Having a track at home I am sure helps so with my new track nearing completion I will hold my breath. Personally I prefer in-line but have some SW (not NSR) going well to very well. Re MJK I thought they were all urethane. I find I can glue and true and after that they need little work except occasional sticky tape but generally only if track is really dirty. Really good for proxies where personal work is not possible. They also wear very well even on Aussie tracks. Our NZ tracks tend to be very smooth but many Aussie ones have texture because of dusty conditions, Have only just started doing this but I believe NSR tyres after gluing and truing need a little oil to optimise performance. Some people use NSR tyre oil (not goop) but any fine oil will do. I tend to use my sewing machine oil (I am a sailmaker/repairer). Just rub a bit into surface and let it soak in for a while. I then use my water/just a drop of detergent to clean off any surface oil as I do not want to dirty track and affect others performance. I think it depends on what others are using. If running untreated you should stay that way. A bit of trust here as some people can be sneaky. Slot-it N22 are my tyre of choice (F22 also good but they tend to shed balls of rubber sometimes) but after gluing and truing should need nothing more than sticky tap. Truing is quicker if you use some CRC2.26 then clean off afterwards as above. Water/detergent works well too but take a lot longer. BRM tyres can be quite good but according to late John of FPR Aldelaide need to be run in for at least 300 laps.Have just put some on my new Camaro to try. Initially after a few laps and dirty track quite promising. Important when gluing tyres to use glue that does not go off too quickly. After getting them square on hub you can then roll them gently on a flat surface to make sure they are as true as possible. This also speeds up truing process. Front axle it may depend on your rules but usually tyres are required to touch. I like to think too that a little contact may contribute to handling but not sure about that. Independent wheels even better. Some RTR cars come out with these or provide as up-grade. I note you mention sanding. This is generally discouraged except for hard Scaly tyres which need a short buzz before each race meeting. OK for others if nothing else works but generally on fine paper with water at about 9volts so does little more than give extra clean. You can do the same on your track surface but we generally have a little board set-up so you do not get muck on track. Hope this is of some help. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)
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