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  1. 4 points
    This is a 3D printed starting point for a run of these in resin....dunno when but it has started.
  2. 3 points
    Some of you may have seen the pods Bingo from HBMRC club has been developing recently. This is his party, but as he hasn't yet begun a dedicated thread, I will get it started. This is the idea. Having driven ff050 sidewinders in the MR Slotcar McLaren F1 GTR when they came out, I was impressed with the tractability of a low powered, low profile motor in my favourite Sidewinder config. I badgered Paul until he got this underway, and has since presented me with a series of prototypes based on the CAD below He has printed these in PLA + They are very stiff, Paul has had to do a couple of tricks to reduce the risk of splitting along the printed layer lines. The pod he delivered tonight which I used has had a good try out. Tonight he dropped by a pair of pods fitted with a couple of motors. These are the two top pods pictured below. The bottom pod has a tiny ff030 motor fitted. One version of the ff050 pod takes 5.5mm pinion with 17.5mm spur or a 5mm pinion with 18mm spur, the other is for a 5.5mm pinion with 18mm spur. Small cars often have small OD wheels and the use of a 17.5mm spur just provides a little more ability to get track clearance with low profile wheel/tyre combos. Use with single inside flanged ball race, oilite or brass bush to retain maximum space for wheels. I actually fitted this one with a couple of nylon single sided bushes I had lying around from an unkown source. A decent, wide, brass bush would give more surface area for gluing in and avoid what I spilled with thin CYA.... ooops. The lower profile of the ff030 and ff050 enables these to fit under tray interiors that cannot accommodate a higher standard FC130 motor Working around the feeding trough call, I fitted the 5.5mm brass pinioned pod +18mm spur into a fairly well worked Sideways Capri, that had been running a standard Flat-6 angle-winder pod. I swapped over the same wheels/tyres at the bask I initially tried it 9:36, but it was just too low, so I switch to 9:32, and that felt a lot better. At the moment, the fiddle of getting the motor in place, with the power connection tags sticking out the end, means I had to hot glue it in place. I actually ran about 20 laps before I realised it was just sitting in place,and the direction of pinion turn, was all that was stopping it popping out.... This test bed car was running 5.5s in standard config. I quickly matched that with the ff050 motor which is 24.5k 95 g/cm torque, = 5.9 watts, versus the Flat-6 yellow which is 20,500 rpm 200 g/cm = 10.25 watts Those who regularly use low powered cars will know that a car which is tractable - easy to drive, will often match a much higher powered car with is a bit twitchy. But I got the Capri into the high 5.3s after a bit of body screw tweaking. I haven't touched the weight that was used to balance the original setup. I was able to do fairly consistent 5.4s and 5.5s. I have a few more adjustments for Paul to copy, which I created with a dremel.... Ahem... This pod is going to be quite useful. He is also working on inline versions for the ff050 and ff030, to suit very small cars.
  3. 2 points
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  4. 2 points
    Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...
  5. 2 points
    What's with Aussies and their inability to follow rules? All the infringements are for Australian cars and most are for the guys I race with. 32coupe .. minus 5 points for small front tyres (must be within 2mm dia of rear tyres) and minus 5 points for rear tyres stick out from the body. Alvaro .. minus 5 for small front tyres Curef .. minus 5 for small front tyres and minus 5 for windscreen/glass not being transparent Dave P .. minus 5 for small front tyres and minus 5 for weight under chassis - must be contained inside the car Supercharged .. minus 5 for small front tyres Read the rules next time guys. Cheers Paul
  6. 2 points
    OK pic's of your mini (s) My back yard in the mid 80's
  7. 1 point
    After all this delay we finally got racing.And then again everything went wrong.Going to Nick I got trapped in a traffic jam due to an accident,was stuck there for more than 1 hour.As a result we could race only 2 lanes ,will do the rest tuesday.Then my cameras battery run out of power and I had not my charger,result only 4 photos.On top of everything else I left the memory stick withthe files on Nick's laptop,he will email me them during the day.So here is an appetizer We had 3 casualties,#20 and #15 the pinion slipped after 4 and 7 laps respectively,#27 (Nick'scar ) slipped through his hand and ended up on the floor,broken post.We could not repair them in place but will do today and run the missed lanes on tuesday. The car that stands out is #21 fast ,stable in a class of its own.The Lancia was lacking grip.The yellow Jag and the open top Porsche were sliding sideways under braking resulting to a costly(time wise) deslot on straight line under the bridge. Watch this space
  8. 1 point
    Just returned from Nick's place,round 1 is in the books.I have to sort out results and photos but that will wait until tomorrow,an appetizer though,the yellow jag sliding sideways under braking approaching the hairpin:
  9. 1 point
    Good on ya Pat. Pushing it out for the Boys!
  10. 1 point
    Thank you very kindly for another warm welcome. Hey brother Wobble. I had a photobucket account years ago when they were free. They said we will never charge me to store my pics. So I bought into it. Then one day they changed their minds and sent me a notice saying they now wanted money from me. I told them to hit the road. I would dearly love to post a gaggle of builds. I have them on file. But unfortunately got stopped at the door. I humbly apologize, but I'm not going to DL all my pics to a third party. I don't need the exposure that badly that I'll jump through hoops for it. But I will gladly support everyone, and help where ever I can. That's too bad for this site that they won't own the content like other forums. Photobucket can hold them over a barrel. The text means nothing without the photos. I'll never say never. But I don't expect to open a Photobucket account any time soon.
  11. 1 point
    To me it would make sense, but then, there is often a difference between 1:1 cars and 1:32 cars. More knowledgeable people around here may be able to offer an opinion. One thing to check would be any interference with the 'strut brace' and the body work ( bonnet vents, etc)
  12. 1 point
    Results of the first 2 lanes Some comments on the cars #98 she will catch you by surprise and roll #12 slides sideways under braking #28 Jag ditto #71 no grip #111 could use some more grip #99 was running reverse,,each time we had to switch track direction #20 pinion slipped.I have already fixed it but crown rotates out of round and I am afraid it is going to happen again It is the best grid since I took ever both performance wise and looks
  13. 1 point
    Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  14. 1 point
    Well time flies when you are in lockdown. Can't believe it's been 2 months since I first posted this query. I reached out to a couple of suggested overseas contacts to see if they were interested in a decal project but got no reply, so figured they were too busy being in lockdown. So with time on my hands, I taught myself how to use Gimp and Inkscape( both freeware) to make decals. Amazing what you can find on You tube for "how to" lessons plus got some tips from a club member who is a longtime modeller ... thanks Paul! So with alot of Computer hours, trial and error, truck load of printer paper and printer ink, I designed a approximation of the above livery, printed it out on decal paper and created a test mule to see how proportions, colors etc looked. There are alot of things I will need to fix, tweak or change, lucky this car has a sister car, so that will be Mark 2 if I can motivate my self to do it all again! Things I learnt along the way: A Black car is hard to make decals for - the black just bleeds thru thin decals, changes decal colors Found that printed replicated "gold and silver" on decals is pretty much transparent and will just disappear if laid straight on black Any decals put on black needed a solid white base patch put down first ie was effectively laying 2 decals down Std white decal patches are still too thin on black - ended up using Patto's stickon white patches Patto's stickon patches are thicker than normal decals and not as flexible or shape conforming ie avoid door handles, body edges ..... For simulated gold or silver color logos, found printing on white decal paper better than clear but then needed to create a black box around each logo to block out any white background Black ink on decal is not the same shade as black paint, in fact can look a bit purple Don't OD on Testors Bonder when spraying your decals otherwise you will get runs Try to avoid getting top of decal wet when putting on your car as it will still run, even with 3 coats of decal bonder Do white cars next time Get someone else to make your decals! Been a interesting exercise, satisfying and frustrating, you need to be a bit OCD and the trouble is you know where all the mistakes are. I'm still looking for someone who can print real gold colors but need to fine tune my decals first for the Mark 2 version. The next post is a bit of a photo journal of decaling the test mule. Regards OrakeiRacer
  15. 1 point
    Thank you for the run congratulations to Sports Racer, ALS and Aloha. And to those who are happy with their result and better luck to those in round 4 who didn’t have the luck this week. If it’s ok to place a small piece of tape across the rear but allow movement on the rear of the body of Clio that would be great if it’s an issue no worries.
  16. 1 point
    Try Postimage.org — free image hosting / image upload,never fails for me ,I've been using it ever since P Bucket went haywire ,much quicker & reliable just like my Megane Cheers Jimmy
  17. 1 point
    I'll stick a picture in the mail and let Aust Post get it to you. Might be quicker than trying to figure out why no-one can see the pics.
  18. 1 point
    Hello again Everyone. I received my guide holders from Bingo in exactly two weeks (Napier to Launceston) which isn't too bad under the current freight/postage situation. While I haven't modified any of my chassis with these at present I thought I should comment of the general finish of the items supplied - they look very strong and have a fairly smooth finish. They compare favourably with similar items received from the old SCC Canada. The body-mounting posts also included in the order are made with little stabilising 'feet' that should enable a very secure method of attaching the posts to the body of the car. (Not to be confused with Little Feat, the 70s rock band!) Major item supplied was the portable tyre cleaner (PTC) which will be most useful when I travel from track to track around Tasmania. As much as I appreciate the facilities provided by track-owners sometimes they are bit hard to get to for an old codger with mobility problems. I see the 'PTC' as having 4 functions (1) checking that your cars are wired correctly, and preventing the embarrassment of hurtling off the start-line in reverse, (2) can also be used as a set-up block, (3) freshening up tyres that may have developed a crust since last being used, and of course (4) cleaning tyres by applying WD40/CRC to the integral sanding block. Having the PTC unit powered by batteries means that I can perform all these functions independently. I'm looking forward to getting hold of some of the motor-pods when they become available. Den
  19. 1 point
    Well put down that flaming' VB and get on with it mate
  20. 1 point
    Thanks guys. The tyres I believe are Shore 40 Smooth-on Vytaflex. Same front & back. I just paint some clear nail polish on the fronts & true them up. David if you are going to build a Petty car get the Powerslide decals from Mikes Decals. They are incredible quality.
  21. 1 point
    a few more pictures...you can see the work to be done before a silicone bath. Pictures are not that great, sorry, but maybe you can see that the front end detail is pretty indistinct.
  22. 1 point
    Wide World Of Sports is following the action.Officials making sure everyone follows the rules.Looking through the trees.Nuns enjoying the day out. I made their out of construction paper.Helicopter view.Questions?
  23. 1 point
    It's a work in progress. A few photos of what I've got done so far. Any questions?
  24. 1 point
    I'm not going to be able to come see your mods Bingo. My daughter is back from Uni and we are catching up on Thursday evening. Have fun chasing those elephants boys!
  25. 1 point
    I wanted to give it a try for very long,finally I found time to build it.Since it has to be easily transported,and will be stored in a covered but open area therefore has to be light and with stand humidity.The solution I found was styrofoam.I had already experimented with a couple of special stages,one single board(250 X60 cm) each .The big issue was if I would be able to bend the board.Which I succeded.I used a single board for this one too because I wasnt sure if bonding 2 pieces would be strong enough.I used pva glue and pu foam which worked quite well.Unfortunately I did not think of taking photos in the proccess but I shot a short video from the firat run.First impressions: -ground clearence has to be at least 1.5 -BREAKS ,the first car that touched the track ended on the floor at the end of the downhill section -sprung guide or drop arm a must -guard rails and walls have to be added Planning for the next one,this time I will shoot hpotos and it will be more car friendly For the time being here is a short video https://youtu.be/sAGMeViUY_0 [
  26. 1 point
    Tracking a package from the US - left 14 August - Virginia to leaving New York in 4 days - 3 days later it left Hong Kong (21 August) and then tonight I found out it left Perth on its way hopefully to me in Queensland. DM
  27. 1 point
    It's the rear right tyre rubbing. I'll put a spacer on the axle to limit the sideways movement. It's not a performance mod but it will stop someone getting the sh*ts with the noise and wanting to throw the car through the window.
  28. 1 point
    Hi all, just a little note to say that Penrith slot cars and hobbies are looking at starting up some circuit racing this year with full points racing to begin next year. Daniel has taken over the day to day aspect for the most part and since we got back to Sydney we have been helping with some ideas for the drag racing and circuit racing. They have the plastic carrera track at the front that has been cleaned and fixed. They also have two routed 8 lane tracks (the layouts are not super complicated) and they are about half way through building a flat 6 lane oval. the initial idea for the oval is what ever 1/32 cars to run and then either hard body or plastic body 1/24 nascars (there has been several built already running on the road tracks). There can be late models, modifiers or sprint cars down the road. For the 3 road tracks Daniel wants to get some racing going so if anyone is in the area that would be interested in the track hosting some racing, I am sure Dan would be all ears, I know Dan has his ideas but to get it started, running what is popular at the moment or fairly readily available so others can join is the plan. We have discussed slotworx cars but at the moment the supplier has no stock. we would love to hear what others are running at other tracks at the moment. As for racing days, it used to be thursdays, we have discussed some Saturday afternoon kids racing as well.
  29. 1 point
    A pair of pods ready to hit printer
  30. 1 point
    Good call Dave. Keep safe everyone and store your cars on their tyres
  31. 1 point
    Maserati 250F Caroll Shelby car finally finished. BRM and Mercedes W196 are next on the build list. [
  32. 1 point
    Nice update and great to see Rosco on the pace and on the podium... I'll just leave this here
  33. 1 point
    Not much !!............the only difference between the 4846 and the 4847 is that the 4846 is for the older 124X motor pod in the "Classic" cars, which had a very small width difference of the plastic on the rear axle uprights, so , the measurement between the flanges of the 4846 is sized accordingly. The 4847 fits everything else. Just to clarify, NSR bushings are not technically "oilites" as they are not sintered, and therefore do not hold oil. For sprint or club racing this is not particularly an issue, as you can check/oil your bushings frequently, but, for proxies with multiple rounds, a "sintered" bronze bushing is the way to go. Folks do use "other" brands, and you will find most experienced racers prefer single flanged "sintered" oilites from the commercial slot world, from companies like, Champion, Mura, Slick 7, Koford etc. These offer the benefits of "Sintering, and are of much better quality (precision) than the stuff made by most plastic car manufacturers. An added benefit is that they cost significantly less. (Single flanged bushing/bearings must be glued into the chassis/pod). A quick word on bushings vs. ballraces...........I and most (all) use ballraces on our high end ( Eurosport, BSCRA, Wing etc.) cars, but these are high precision bits costing wwaayy more than those offered by the mainstream plastic car companies. Mediocre bearings contain cheaply made parts (races/balls/flanges) and many (most) have more slop than an oilite.......this is not the hot tip for quick laps/consistent handling, and unlike a sintered oilite, ballraces do not hold oil, which while not a big deal, do require frequent maintenance/oiling. Similarly, inexpensive ballrace motors contain cheap bearings, with the same issues as cheap axle ballraces. Over the years, it has been fairly well accepted that a well installed/aligned set of oilites will offer no real benefit over ballraces (especially those of average at best quality) other than in the very top level of commercial slot car racing. (Most commercial grade cars still use sintered oilites !!) If your rules allow, try a set of single flange sintered oilites (3/32 x 3/16) from one of the manufacturers listed above, align/glue them properly, and you will be miles ahead (both in terms of performance and dosh outlay ) vs. a mediocre pr. of ballraces. (You will invariably need to "open" the bushing holes in most pods to 3/16ths, but this is quite a quick and easy job). Cheers Chris Walker
  34. 1 point
    Hi Shaynus and Kevan. I am no NSR guru (or any other for that matter) as after several months of trying have just got my NSR Corvette going pretty well. My NSR Aston is still a work in progress and have had a lot longer. Both are AW's. At some stage have had both cars within about 0.2secs of Moslers but that gap remains. I tend to get so far then strip everything out and start again. Having a track at home I am sure helps so with my new track nearing completion I will hold my breath. Personally I prefer in-line but have some SW (not NSR) going well to very well. Re MJK I thought they were all urethane. I find I can glue and true and after that they need little work except occasional sticky tape but generally only if track is really dirty. Really good for proxies where personal work is not possible. They also wear very well even on Aussie tracks. Our NZ tracks tend to be very smooth but many Aussie ones have texture because of dusty conditions, Have only just started doing this but I believe NSR tyres after gluing and truing need a little oil to optimise performance. Some people use NSR tyre oil (not goop) but any fine oil will do. I tend to use my sewing machine oil (I am a sailmaker/repairer). Just rub a bit into surface and let it soak in for a while. I then use my water/just a drop of detergent to clean off any surface oil as I do not want to dirty track and affect others performance. I think it depends on what others are using. If running untreated you should stay that way. A bit of trust here as some people can be sneaky. Slot-it N22 are my tyre of choice (F22 also good but they tend to shed balls of rubber sometimes) but after gluing and truing should need nothing more than sticky tap. Truing is quicker if you use some CRC2.26 then clean off afterwards as above. Water/detergent works well too but take a lot longer. BRM tyres can be quite good but according to late John of FPR Aldelaide need to be run in for at least 300 laps.Have just put some on my new Camaro to try. Initially after a few laps and dirty track quite promising. Important when gluing tyres to use glue that does not go off too quickly. After getting them square on hub you can then roll them gently on a flat surface to make sure they are as true as possible. This also speeds up truing process. Front axle it may depend on your rules but usually tyres are required to touch. I like to think too that a little contact may contribute to handling but not sure about that. Independent wheels even better. Some RTR cars come out with these or provide as up-grade. I note you mention sanding. This is generally discouraged except for hard Scaly tyres which need a short buzz before each race meeting. OK for others if nothing else works but generally on fine paper with water at about 9volts so does little more than give extra clean. You can do the same on your track surface but we generally have a little board set-up so you do not get muck on track. Hope this is of some help. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)
  35. 1 point
    Hi Mark, The motor bracket that Zack used (Professor Mtr.) is a copy of the brackets he used to sell that were from BWA. (BWA closed up, Andy had his own made). While they are a well made/ good looking bracket, they are rather heavy, and for the type of racing most folks here do, there are better choices. Both JK and RGEO make a range of brackets in various widths/offsets, that all have hole patterns drilled for 3/16 x 3/32 bushings, and hole patterns drilled for our 130/180 etc. type motors. Both of these manufacturers produce a range of high end commercial grade slot products and are very well respected. (I am sure you are familiar with both) While much lighter than the Prof. Mtr. bracket, both are designed for commercial racing, and are more than strong enough (way more) for any home/club racing. Cheers Chris Walker PS If you have any issues finding them , please let me know.
  36. 1 point
    Nathan or as he was known here...moe, passed away last Tuesday after a period in hospital. He was 43 years old. Slot cars and racing always was a great excuse to hang out and drink beer. Lot of good memories from the V32 racing days and every Friday night in my shed. Rest in peace mate
  37. 1 point
    Yo all, our March 2019 Newsletter is now available for viewing and for download as a PDF file; click the link below. www.slotraceshop.nz/March2019Newsletter.pdf New products, Q&A, The "one hour build" - on a Sideways Capri
  38. 1 point
    Today the world mourns the passing of another great. Dan Gurney; driver, team owner, innovator and legend has faced his final flag. Dan succumbed to complications from pneumonia at the age of 86.
  39. 1 point
    The Indianapolis 500 has been one of the world’s greatest races for over a century. As the centrepiece in American oval-track racing, it was the glamour trophy race that outsiders coveted when they sought success in the United States. While the Americans encouraged foreign competition, it was also the race that they guarded most fiercely as their own. (Indy program for the first 500) Since its beginnings in 1911, the Indy 500 was open to foreign cars. Entries came across the Atlantic from Peugeot, Fiat etc to win the great prize. But in those early years entries ebbed and flowed, and the track owners invested in a ‘home team’ to ensure the highest levels of competition. In 1916 state-of-the-art Peugeots from France with newly designed double overhead camshafts were purchased, and promptly copied by Indianapolis Speedway team. Later, the design would be copied by Harry Miller and his draftsman Fred Offenhauser, and the Duesenberg brothers. So successful were the Miller and Duesenberg designs that they would dominate the results up until the Second World War. But Miller went broke in 1933 and Offenhauser successfully took over, until 1946 when he sold the business to Louis Meyer and Dale Drake. Meyer and Drake continued to use the Offenhauser name, and so the engines became fondly known as ‘Offys’. (A Meyer-Drake Offy) After the war, Europe was largely broke and racing on the Continent was contested by pre-war cars retrieved from storage. In America, opportunities were plentiful, and dirt-track midget builder Frank Kurtis, turned his thoughts towards a design more suited to paved speedways. The layout Kurtis came up with offset the engine location, so that the driveshaft was moved from underneath the driver to be alongside. This placed the driveline components on the left side, which was quite useful for a car that always turned left. It also allowed the driver to sit much lower, reducing the height of the car and thus wind resistance. The Kurtis chassis was also fabricated from high-strength aircraft-quality tubing instead of the earlier channel section frames. Kurtis made his ‘Roadster’ chassis freely available, and like the ‘Offy’ engine, was so successful, that it and its copies would dominate Indy for the next 20 years. (AJ Foyt’s 1961 Offy–powered roadster) The Indy sanctioning body made several attempts at enticing car manufacturers to participate at Indy against the Offys. In 1952 the rules limited pure-racing engines like the Offy to 4.5 litres. That year an amendment was made so that production-based or stock-block engines, up to 5.5 litres could also compete. Most American car makers made a pushrod V8 of that size, including Chrysler. Roger Walcott was a Chrysler dealer who got the company to provide him with a stock-block engine which he put in a Kurtis roadster, to be readied for the 1953 event. The Chrysler engineers already had a hemi engine they’d developed for Briggs Cunningham’s Le Mans cars, and running on Indy alcohol, it instantly produced 400 horsepower at a mere 5,200rpm. The one error of judgement they made was to do their testing in public. The Chrysler-powered car did an Indy race simulation at an average speed of 134mph, which was a leap ahead in performance considering that the 1952 race was won at an average of 128mph. The existing Offy-powered teams faced extinction and they pushed successfully to have stock-block engine capacity rule removed even before the Chrysler engine could race. A stock-block engine of the same capacity was no match for an Offy, and Walcott’s dream was sunk. (The Walcott Chrysler) Offy engines and roadster chassis continued to dominate until 1961, when Jack Brabham raced a Cooper-Climax Grand Prix car to the Speedway. In 1959 reigning Indy winner Rodger Ward had been astonished at the cornering speed of the visiting Formula 1 cars at the U.S. GP. He was convinced that the little rear-engined cars could challenge the roadsters and encouraged the Cooper Grand Prix team to have a go at Indy. Following an initial test run in 1960, some modifications were made to the Cooper, and Climax built them a slightly larger 2.7 litre engine which produced 250 horsepower on a petrol/alcohol mix. Brabham qualifying easily and finished a creditable 9th. Although Brabham’s race speed was nearly 5 mph slower than AJ Foyt’s winning speed, the Cooper’s light weight and lower consumption of fuel and tyres showed that the comparatively heavy roadsters could be beaten. (Jack Brabham in the Cooper Climax at Indy) In the end, it was Dan Gurney who was pivotal in launching the rear-engined revolution of Indy. Gurney was an unlikely race driver, whose New York opera-singing father had retired to California to grow oranges. He tried to join the USAF as a jet fighter pilot, that was until they found out he was married. Nevertheless he went to the Korean War as a mechanic in an anti-aircraft unit. He first began racing in sports cars, and after a while, his talent was noticed by Ferrari importer Luigi Chinetti. Chinetti took him to Le Mans in 1958 and his career blossomed as he picked up drives in Formula 1, winning the French Grand Prix with Porsche in 1962. (Gurney portrait from Schlegemilch) After several years in Formula 1 and observing Cooper’s tentative toe-in-the-water, it wasn’t hard for Gurney to see that Grand Prix cars were light years ahead of the present Indy technology. In 1962 he returned to the US to tackle the Indy 500 with Mickey Thompson’s Buick-powered and rear-engined special. Thompson had employed British designer John Crosthwaite to design and build a rear-engined challenger. Although powered by a stock-block Buick V8, it was cast in lighter aluminium. Gurney qualified well and was running competitively when a faulty transaxle seal leaked and the unit seized. "It was an excellent car," Gurney said. "I qualified ninth, after only being in it a day and a half. It looked good and it was good. But we weren’t even close to being ready. It was rumbling and surging right from the very beginning. But nobody was complaining. It was a lot of fun working with Mickey. It was a big thrill to be part of it. They had a great spirit – the drag-racing spirit I love – a total can-do attitude: No matter, what, we’ll get it done.” (Gurney in the Mickey Thompson Buick) While it was a creditable effort, Gurney’s major achievement that year was to engage the interest of Colin Chapman. Chapman was the innovative founder of Lotus cars, and Gurney had paid for him to be his guest at Indy. Chapman saw first-hand the point proved by Cooper’s earlier visit and did some quick sums. The Offy roadsters had 400 hp, a tough, heavy chassis, a solid rear axle, an upright driving position and the heavy fuel tank hanging out the rear. But rear-engine cars could lay the driver down to reduce frontal area, and the fuel tanks were between the front and rear axles. With modern chassis design, they had lighter weight and superior cornering speed. Chapman figured that with its advantages, a rear-engined car with 325 hp could match the best of the roadsters for speed. With better tyre wear and fuel consumption, it would make fewer pitstops and therefore win the race. Chapman was interested, it was up to Gurney to find a suitable engine. He met with Ford Motor Company executives with a sales pitch: if they gave him an engine with 325 hp and weighing 160kg, he could put their names on an Indy winner. Gurney may not have known it, but Henry Ford II had given the company the green-light to go racing and, they had a new compact Fairlane V8 engine of 4.2 litres. If Ford re-cast it in aluminium, the stock-block engine prepared to race specifications would be pretty close to Chapman’s targets. It was a deal. (Roadster chassis on the left, while Gurney is in the original Indy Lotus 29) After the US Grand Prix in October, Chapman returned to Indy with Jim Clark and a 2.5 litre Climax-engined Lotus 25 for some private testing. Like the Cooper before it, the Lotus was promisingly quick – all they needed was that promised Ford engine. But Ford was so indecisive that they were late getting started, and Chapman was getting frustrated. He had a chassis ready, and if Ford didn’t produce something, he’d go elsewhere. By the following February some prototype engines were ready, but one was ruined when it destroyed a cam while running on the dyno. By now Chapman was ready to walk! Some swift talking convinced him to hang in there for one last trial at Indy. The Ford men altered the valve train and found 365hp on the workshop dyno. Success! They met the Lotus team at Indy with their last remaining engine and fingers crossed-behind their backs. After a few days of trials and adjustments, and on some special Dunlop tyres Gurney hit 150mph, and now they could afford to smile. At the Offy end of pitlane, the air became a little chilly. This foreign car, on foreign tyres was going to make them obsolete. (The Ford pushrod engine and ZF transaxle) When the 1963 Indy 500 came around, the Lotus-Ford was still an unknown quantity. Its fast times had been set on special 15 inch diameter tyres. The Offy teams demanded that Firestone let them have some too. Immediately they also went faster, and Parnelli Jones set a new qualifying record. The Lotus-Ford had lost one of its advantages, and worse was to come when Gurney destroyed his car. He took over the spare and qualified 12th with Clark in 5th. The race started with Jones in the lead followed by a bunch of roadsters. Clark and Gurney set out running 10th and 11th, but Gurney slowly dropped from contention, his back-up car experiencing significant tyre wear. Things ran to plan on lap 67, when the thirsty roadsters pitted for fuel and now the economical Lotus-Ford of Clark was in the lead. Fortunately for Jones, several caution periods allowed him to regain the lead despite having to stop more often for fuel. Clark was clearly the only driver likely to challenge him. By this stage, fellow roadster driver Jim Hurtubise had been black-flagged for dropping fluid. The Indy officials were very strict on this rule, and it had been stressed in the pre-race briefing. But when Jones’ Offy began leaking from a cracked oil tank, no action was taken. Both Chapman and Jones’ team owner J.C. Agajanian, confronted the chief steward, arguing about what to do. One thing was clear: if Jones was black-flagged, the foreign car would win. Even when the roadsters of Roger McCluskey and Eddie Sach spun on Jones’ oil, still nothing was done. Jones went on to beat Clark by 34 seconds, and the Offys still reigned over Indy. (Parnelli Jones in his winning Roadster) The next race following Indy was the Milwaukee 200, and this time Clark and Gurney qualified fastest and finished the race 1-2! On the evidence of Indy and Milwaukee, it was clear the days of the Offy were numbered. Ford announced their intention to come back to Indy next year, and began working on a new version of the Fairlane engine, with double overhead cams. Early testing showed 410hp, very close to the 425hp that the Ford engineers thought would be required to beat the latest development of the Offy. The original carburettor set up was now insufficient, so fuel injection was tried, producing more power and using less fuel. With other revisions, by March of 1964 they had 420hp and several favoured teams were helped to make the switch to the new Ford engine. Those not in favour included Jones and AJ Foyt, both previous critics of Ford’s challenge to the Offys. (The DOHC version of the Ford engine) In qualifying, Ford powered cars took-out the three-car front row, including Clark in a brand new Lotus 34, Marshman in last year’s Lotus 29 and Ward in a rear-engined Watson chassis. The race result seemed inevitable, except for Chapman’s decision to run some unproven Dunlop tyres in the race. At the start there was a massive pile-up and ricocheting cars resulted in a fireball in which two drivers lost their lives and the race was stopped. "I was ahead [of the crash]," recalled Parnelli Jones. "Going down the back straightaway I could see the huge fireball on the front straightaway. It looked like the whole front grandstand was on fire. If there had been an exit gate around Turn 3, I would have taken it." After the grim restart, Clark and Marshman battled for the race lead, but Marshman tore out his sump plug when forced off the track and Clark shredded a tyre which wrecked his suspension. Gurney was also in tyre troubles and Ward was delayed by extra fuel stops from running alcohol fuel. That left the race to fall to AJ Foyt, who had no hesitation in flipping the ‘bird’ to Ford executives as he drove down victory lane in his roadster. In an awful photo opportunity, a tired Foyt was handed an ‘Indy news’ banner proclaiming “Foyt Winner in 500, Sachs, McDonald die.” (Clark’s Lotus retires with rear suspension damage) Despite this set-back, everyone could see that the Offy roadsters were running on borrowed time. Offy engine builder Louis Meyer came to an arrangement with Ford to assemble, sell and maintain their engines for customers who wanted to switch. As an encouragement, Ford offered the engines for one third of their actual cost, just to under-cut the Offy prices! For the 1965 Indy, Lotus now faced competition from another British Grand Prix team, Lola, as well as numerous American entries, including Gurney and AJ Foyt in last year’s Lotus cars. Despite a challenge from Foyt early in the race, Clark and the new Lotus 38 ran a perfect race, winning by two laps from Jones in another Lotus. (Jim Clark with the Team Lotus mechanics - including Allan Moffat) So finally a modern rear-engined car had won Indy. Dan Gurney would never win the Indy 500, but he was central to changing the course of its history. Gurney didn’t do anything amazing, he merely brought together the right people at the right time. Gurney’s time would come at Le Mans in another Ford-powered car, the GT40 MkIV. (Gurney and Foyt victory celebrations at Le Mans in 1967) Gurney: "We all felt as though we were making history at the time. It was a thrilling situation, really.” He says he knew some of the Indy-car crowd considered him a turncoat for bringing the Brits to Indianapolis. "Some of the old establishment people felt that I was kind of a traitor. But there was no doubt in my mind that it was gonna’ happen whether they liked it or not. If it hadn’t been me, it would have been somebody else." Sources: Sports Car Digest: History of the Indianapolis 500 Alex Gabbard: Total Performance Mopar Magazine: Too Much Hemi Doug Nye: Jack Brabham Wikipedia Sports Illustrated Vault All American Racers
  40. 1 point
    Carabo Bertone. Porsche Carrera. Renault 5. Matra Bagheera. Rare. BMW 3.0csl. Ferrari 312T. Alfa GTV. Very rare.
  41. 1 point
    Alpine A1600. Rare. Matra 650.Rare. Porsche 911. Porsche 917, differing "moustaches". rare. Ford Capri. Lancia Stratos.
  42. 1 point
    Mercedes 300sl. Yellow-rare. Blue & red-very rare. Mercedes 300sl hardtop-very rare. EType hardtop. Green-rare. White-extremely rare. EType . Rare. Blue & red-very rare. Silver/gray Merc 300sl & EType. Considered to be Jouefs` two most beautiful models. Extremely rare. Porsche 904GT. The one in front is my first slot car from 1968. Ferrari 250 GTO. The number 73 car is a very rare tampo printed version.
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