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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/29/2021 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers
  2. 5 points
    Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.
  3. 5 points
    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.
  4. 4 points
    The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop
  5. 4 points
    Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  6. 4 points
    Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.
  7. 4 points
    Been playing with the printer again, this time a outback feel for the new rally track in the future. HO scale building enlarged to 1/32nd scale Still a work in progress, and needs a bit of weathering as well
  8. 3 points
    Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    Agreed. I was quite the Nissan fan in the day. Perhaps Slot.it can do a VL SS Commodore? They can go chassis economy mode and also do the VK and VL Walkinshaw, all of which have European liveries to go with the multitude of Australian liveries. Now that era of Holden I would like to see. Those would sell well here in Aus.
  11. 2 points
    We were supposed to round this round last week but circumstances etc. This coming Sunday, 1pm local time on Dave's track. It's another power track, suits the cars with boxer motors. Cheers Paul
  12. 2 points
    RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021
  13. 2 points
    Saw this running last night. Supercool. Stance is spot on. Nice one, Pat.
  14. 2 points
    Toy Brands V's Professional Slot Racing Car
  15. 2 points
    Ya gotta be happy with that
  16. 2 points
    CA49a Nissan GT-R n.23 24h Spa 2018 available to the world market.
  17. 2 points
    The Toyota 86C part number CA41d - n.35 Fuji 1000 Km 1986 from every angle. On sale soon.
  18. 2 points
    tried to get an overhead view
  19. 2 points
    Hi Guys We haven't seen any videos or numbers for a while, so I thought I would do some numbers based on the data we have. So about the only thing I came up with is an efficiency percentage, based on laps you have done in the race and a theoretical lap score (TLS) based on the your fastest lap time e.g for 32coupe laps 60.43 fastest lap 5.623 So from that we can find a theoretical lap score (TLS), The time of the race 360 sec is divided by fastest lap 360/5.623 = 64.02 so then you can divide the actual laps by the TLS in this case 60.43 / 64.02 = .944 or 94.4% so here's the list Name Laps fastest lap TLS Efficiency percentage 32coupe 60.44 5.623 64.02 94.4% Sports Racer 59.88 5.666 63.54 94.24% Alvaro 59.84 5.682 63.36 94.44% Brooksy 57.97 6.014 59.86 96.84% Nev 56.57 5.851 61.53 91.16% DP201 56.09 5.983 60.17 93.22% old man 55.85 5.964 60.48 91.22% Lancelot 55.35 6.004 59.96 92.18% jimmyslots 55.27 5.964 60.36 91.56% Peter Gunn 54.47 5.903 60.99 89.32% bov 54.02 5.895 61.07 88.46% ArroldN 53.82 6.233 57.76 93.18% Dixie 53.60 6.143 58.60 94.46% Supercharged 53.54 5.973 60.27 88.75% sticks 53.20 6.078 59.23 89.82% Aloha 52.35 6.200 58.06 90.16% JohnnieE 51.54 6.109 58.93 87.46% Nonfractal 51.27 6.390 56.74 91.00% Shaynus 51.06 6.347 56.79 90.00% ALS 50.84 6.485 55.52 91.58% Pespsi62 50.70 6.454 55.78 90.89% curef99 50.10 6.652 54.11 92.57% BARacer 49.11 6.318 56.98 86.19% BrumosRSR 48.02 6.322 56.94 84.64% I hope is helpful
  20. 2 points
    Thanks Greg, here's the links to the items Miners Cottage Windmill Water Tank Enlarging the Cottage from HO to 1/32nd made all the wall dimensions thicker, so i used tinkercad to make the inside walls and base thinner, mainly to save on print time, even so it still took over 30 hours for all the items to be printed.
  21. 2 points
    Our club was suppose to start racing a new class for Slotit Nissan Skyline R32s, but the Auckland lockdown has put paid to that, likely it will become a New Year class now. I thought I would have plenty of time to complete some projects but these two took me a month and a half to finish! Figuring there would be alot of Calsonic and Bathurst duplicate liveries appearing, I wanted something more unique but easy to paint. While technically fantasy liveries, they will hopefully still look the part. I'm hoping these cars will prompt the other club members to hurry up and prep their Skylines. I found the Tamiya Floro red paint is deadly on white, if you haven't masked stuff properly and sealed every nook, cranny and edge. Also pays to let it dry more than 2 days before clear coating it, otherwise it runs . - OrakeiRacer
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Started another one ......... can't help myself
  24. 2 points
    More progress on the little Elfin, just about got all the suspension bits fitted, burnt finger tips and all, I know you may think "what's the point?" with all this, no track here at the moment, no Tasman race to race this car, too much wire and brass for my liking and all that stuff, but bear with me here guys, I'm having an all right time getting this little car together. there is more to come Terry
  25. 1 point
    Outstanding! From a great print to a spectacular finish, Beautiful Build Mate, Love it Cheers NimROD
  26. 1 point
    Hi folk, about time I put some posts up on some models I've now finished. I purchased the Thunderslot McLaren Elva of Elvis Presley, Bruce McLaren, Graham Hill some time back - and fell in love with it. I ordered two white kits and decided I'd start playing with pearl paints from SMS.. first time for me. I was able to reference the finished factory model for reference - and decided I'd follow the trim lines for both my models. I have found that building two of anything at the same time produces a "poor relation" and one which enjoys the benefit of practice... I have done this with scratch building locomotives and rolling stock. The kit went together really well and I am very impressed .. but, it needed some argy bargy to get some of the parts to fit... with a bit of scraping/cajoling/sanding until they all sat down and played nicely together.. The first one, I bought some SMS "pearl grape" some time back.. and it went without thought to use it on one of these two... I chose "inca gold" for the trim colour.... The second one, I found a lovely pearl light blue called "ice blue"... I could not find anything close to what I wanted for the darker colour.. so, mixed up one of my own using SMS again... I used ice blue, black and some VR blue to get the darker pearl colour I wanted.. and am so happy with it, I will use it again when opportunity arises.. I really like the combination of bringing these two "ice blue" base colours together.. see what you think... I have the order back to front .. This was my first of the two builds.... "purple grape" with "inca gold" ... and note the longer ram tubes. With both models, I used the trim colour for the driver's helmet and wheel inserts. I used clear green for the driver's goggles with "purple".. and kept with the blue theme for clear blue for those of "blue"... Here's purple - so far, only one vote for "purple".. "blue" seems to be winning this almost outright... your thoughts? I'll have a few more posts to put up... I have been a bit slack in posting up my work.. I have completed a white kit "Mr Slotcar" F1 GTR McLaren in a "colour shift" SMS called "Black hole".. very impressed. Also, there has been a Thunderslot white kit of a Lola T70 mk 3. I have six new NSR models and six Revo slot ones... only one of these 12 has been a white kit - a Porsche 911 GT-2 (for my daughter)... we are making up a colour scheme for that using SMS paints... based on "spearmint green" pearl and "clear aqua".. I have thrown some "teal" into that to get the contrasting darker colour... report and pix as I work through this one. Further, I do not like my models "sitting" on their tyres. Every one I have (nearly 70, maybe more) - I have made platforms for them to sit on.. with the tyres clear. The Revo cars have gone one further, and I am making up wooden floors for the boxes - I do not like the factory supplied cardboard base... My wooden floors are made from 7 mm ply and routed out where tyres/motor and guide foul.... the floor is elevated by some 5 mm Tasmanian Oak quad.. Might do a report on this as well .... some time, if anyone is interested.. Ok... just thought it time to put these up... they were completed a couple of weeks back... none of my new cars have seen a track yet.. maybe in just under two weeks - our usual annual set up here for Bathurst (late this year). frats, Rosco
  27. 1 point
    Ok folk, bump.... been a while on this thread. Cooper #2 returned from this year's Tasman Cup proxy series.. didn't get a podium, but was awarded the John Smedley constructors award... chuffed. Sadly, there is quite a bit of paint damage - not down to running in the series, but issues with Tamiya surfacer/primer. It showed up a lots of lateral cracks across the body - I believed it may have been the Humbrol cleer cote (note spelling), but such was not the case. I started rubbing it down and it wasn't long before I found that the issue was deep... way deep - at primer level. The Tamiya colour coats were fine - but the primer fragmented below them... the cracks making their way to the top.... I have now rubbed back the body to bare resin and am now using SMS paints... so far, three coats of white primer/surfacer and two rub backs... I have airbrushed a mix of three different SMS paint colours to get the gold of Tamiya.. and are pretty happy with it. I ended up using a mix of Inca Gold, Rich Gold, Super Silver and some Yellow to get as close as I could to Tamiya Titan Gold.. I'll use SMS white this time and finally overcoat everything with SMS 2K Ultra Clear.... that stuff is simply amazing - such depth and flow-out. Ok, will have some pix soon... big job, it was easier the first time around without the driver, cockpit and windshield in situ.. As rubbed back to resin... frats, Rosco
  28. 1 point
    Updated photos of the CA39e race n.70 12h Sebring 2014 Lola, is a great looking car
  29. 1 point
    Found this Youtube clip which is quite a laugh. Wish I'd painted the door cards beige now.
  30. 1 point
    That’s a really nice job and great you have done it from scratch so to speak. That a bucket list car for sure.
  31. 1 point
    Possibly the best home printed car i've seen so far. It just looks 'right'.
  32. 1 point
    Probably because it has a nice big arse .......
  33. 1 point
    I can see the credit card getting another hiding.
  34. 1 point
    I'd like to send a big thank you to @NimROD444. A bit late in posting something but I have been busy with "non slot car" things and it's better late than never. The print of the Bluebird has a lot of detail I like, little things ie the internal rear view mirror and the dash top. Very light body that I will either put a PCR Sierra, Shapeways or a Slot.it HRS chassis under it. Like all my cars (except about 5) the car won't be a shelf queen. Once I get the Bartlett car and Dicky's XD finished this will be pushed up the production line (Ihave about 30 plus bodies waiting to be built) as this car is one I have wanted for a long time. Now to track down the George Fury livery.
  35. 1 point
    Sideways GT3/E menu in progress and coming soon LBH GT3 SWCAR01 FGT GTE SWCAR02 M6 GT3 SWCAR03 720S GT3 SWCAR04 ASV GT3/E SWCAR05 BC UK GT3 SWCAR06 RCF Japan GT3 SWCAR07
  36. 1 point
    And got a couple of them onto the track: http:// http:// http://
  37. 1 point
    As I grow older my eyes are getting worse I use a trick that a mate used at a National event to check the number of teeth,he takes a picture with his mobile phone & blows it up.Too easy Cheers Jimmy
  38. 1 point
    Hahahaha doubt if you will be able to do that BARacer, look think we all want to have some fun and be competative , been doing proxy racing for round about 12 years now and in that time met some great helpful people who really helped me get along with it. Never aimed to win as it,s very hard to do against seasoned drivers and cars in their own enviroment , but have managed to put out reasonable cars that might give me a go of a podium or two, Proxy racing is no longer the force it was , not so long ago we had the OZ rally, Tasman, ATCC, and the WRP which alone had 40 odd entries but like every thing people loose interest , sometimes it is because they can't see any light at the end of the tunnel, some get bored , and find they just can't build competative cars. There was Alexis and the IPS proxy in my opinion one of the best again over 40 entries and it was really good to see your car one month in Oz then Scotland, Greece, Wales e.t.c and Canada , we had regular updates , pictures comments on all the cars from the venue's and the racing was really good , like all venues some strange drivers but you learned to build cars others could drive, you never stop learning. Paul and myself had great competition around 3 years ago in this proxy when that went wider a field we both ran similat Merc's and it was nip and tuck but always good humoured fun really looked forward to where each of us were, things have changed now , as i have said these proxies have been waining before Covid and the usual one's are no longer running due to this and as i have said costs involved, and times they are a changing my friend. Over the pond there are a few interesting proxy racing series like the 997 Porsche i though i would have a go at this year , another learning curve , knew i could build smooth well handling cars but once again i am finding lack of straight line pace affects my lap time not by a lot as that proxy has a lot of very competative cars in it think a couple of tenths cover around 15 cars most races, but i have picked up in the comments from each venue useful info to improve the car this time i know i need to change the motor, to use the one which is doing well overall so far , as i have found that motor is actually running better here on my track than my entry , so that is another learning curve. My time is drawing to a close what with health issues and i suppose getting a bit bored with the length some proxy's take to run, understand that people who run them put a lot in to making theas things happen and have always tried to support them even those miles away , as without the support there will not be enough entrants to actually run them , not much fun having no REAL competition to improves your skills
  39. 1 point
    It would be nice to have the offset gears with the teeth no imprinted on the side of the crown. I generally write on mine with a Sharpie as soon as I buy them so I don’t have to count them.
  40. 1 point
    G'day all, a few little additions to keep me amused while I await a deliver for a major scenic update....to follow soon hopefully... The pub corner needed a little beer garden I thought, basic fence & bench seating kit from miniart fit the bill: http://
  41. 1 point
    That came out really well, now to rubber up. Enjoy.
  42. 1 point
    Track is now fully braided (apart from pit lane which will happen later) I think Col will put up barrier/fencing before power to avoid too many trips to the concrete floor
  43. 1 point
    Race results and finishing order. Name Round 2 Laps Round 2 Lap Time Lap time last year Round 2 Points 32coupe 60.43 5.623 5.886 25 Sports Racer 59.88 5.666 5.651 24 Alvaro 59.84 5.682 6.012 23 Brooksy 57.97 6.014 22 Nev 56.57 5.851 21 DP201 56.09 5.983 5.982 20 old man 55.85 5.952 19 lancelot 55.35 6.004 6.165 18 jimmyslots 1950 55.27 5.964 5.914 17 Peter Gunn 54.47 5.903 5.876 16 bov 54.02 5.895 6.200 15 ArroldN 53.82 6.233 5.878 14 Dixie 53.60 6.143 13 Supercharged 53.49 5.973 6.103 12 sticks 53.20 6.078 6.305 11 Aloha 52.35 6.200 5.773 10 JohnnieE 51.54 6.109 9 Nonfractal 51.27 6.390 8 Shaynus 51.06 6.347 6.128 7 ALS 50.84 6.485 6.125 6 Pepsi62 50.70 6.454 6.461 5 curef99 50.10 6.652 6.293 4 BARacer 49.11 6.318 3 BrumosRSR 48.02 6.322 5.746 2 Andrew's post race review. As he's the track owner and has the 1st place car i thought who better to review each car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22C2f6m-9hE Race videos to come. Cheers Paul
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Great looking track. Any chance I could come over and try to beat your lap records? Cheers Paul
  46. 1 point
    Hey Tonyaussie, There is a free Hino 500 2018 3D model at 3DWarehouse that could be edited to what you want. Pm me if your interested. Cheers Nimrod
  47. 1 point
    Hi folk, wow, have I hit the deck running - seven cars lined up on my workbench all demanding they get closer to completion.. and another three to come - what have I done? Whilst we were up north, I ordered an NSR GT40 mk 2... I am very impressed with NSR models, and I expect there will be more to come... I had a good look at how it was set up ex factory, and something just wasn't right - I could not get module/chassis float when the chassis was fitted to the body, but it was fine on the bench minus body. I took a very close look for anything which may have been fouling - and sadly, NSR have made the exact same mistake that I suffered with all my Slot-It GT40's... that blasted plastic engine and intake manifold - it fouls the motor pod.. As you can see in the pic above, the tab melt method of fitting components did not allow much room to decrease the depth of the plastic engine/intake... There certainly wasn't enough clearance to be gained by simply chomping into the body of it... so, my plan was to remove it and do some trimming - then fit it further up into the body... Another area which needed attention was the power leads to the motor - they were first point of contact between the pod and the body.... I de-soldered and re-fitted them so that the leads and terminal were not proud of the motor body... We can see in the pic below, that the factory placement sits very low in the body - and this fouls the chassis motor and pod... In the pic below, we can see that I have attacked the plastic severely, just barely avoiding breaking through to what will be visible through the rear window of the model. I have also cut away the front mount and opted to fit it flush with the body cowl, rather than have it mounted underneath - this combination gave me sufficient clearance for the motor and pod to float within the adjustment I have set this model up with... So, here we have the side-one pic with motor fitted... and if you compare the first pic to this one - you'll note that a considerable amount of adding clearance needed to be emplaced... So, with a bit of work adjusting float and truing in the tyres... this model is pretty much good to go - it did need a bit of work but I believe it will be one of the best performing GT-40's that I have... the bottom dwellers are the two Scalextric ones I purchased when I re-entered the hobby seven or eight years back... what was I thinking - a second hand "mint" GT-40 I "won" at auction... and paid $85 delivered from W.A....... Scalextric - it has never run correctly, nor did the one I bought direct from a retailer shortly after... then - I found Slot-It, and so commenced a long affair with collecting SI GT40's... eventually building a white kit one that I call "Godzilla" - almost impossible to drive - huge motor, very low gearing... I've learned a bit since way back then.... Ok... one down - 9 to go. Currently on the bench are three NSR 86/89 F1's, two NSR Moslers, a Mr Slotcar McLaren M6A, two T/slot McLaren Elva's, a T/Slot Lola T70, a Revo-Slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit, two Revo Porsche 911 GT2's, a Revo Dodge viper and of course - work continues on the LJ XU-1 build.. it has to be completed before Bathurst next year - the 50th anniversary of when PB took it over the finish line to claim his first Bathurst in 1972.. Ok, guess I'm back.... frats, Rosco
  48. 1 point
    Typical of me is to start a new build at the end of a just completed Tasman Series,this build follows that rather strange pattern. Nothing too different for me as I had this chassis laying around and I had the body which I got from Phil about 18 months back I began the build as a lockdown thing, as we are in a lockdown and there is absolutely no way I was not going to do something "slot related" No track as yet for me to test on but that's okay I will get to that in good time Hopefully we will see a 2022 Tasman series and just maybe a chance for this to race
  49. 1 point
    The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://
  50. 1 point
    Hey all, so, some more small improvements. I've been working on improving the look of the pit/control tower area to fit the period & track I'm trying to highlight. My very basic scenic building skills are highly evident in these, but anyway, here we go ! first, the control tower & pits I did up hoping to capture the feel of the tower & pits at the start finish line at the Longford track. Looking something like this: http:// The original tower being 3 story would have looked too high & out of place on the track, so I scaled it to 2 levels, but tried to still capture the feel of it. using foam board, Publisher & basic laser printing..... http://
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