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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  2. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  3. 2 points
    There was an old warehouse on the outside corner of the Pub.....this was my take on it made over the weekend.... http:// Another couple of shots of it with Bib Stillwell in the Brabham BT4 rounding the corner ! http:// http://
  4. 2 points
    Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been. I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried. For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together. The tyres are MJK 4272. The wheel specs are - overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E") rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C) Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D) Step width - 3.0 mm (F) Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm Hub diameter - 5.0 mm Hub width - 3.0 mm Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm Ok.. some pix... It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre. I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap..... I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool. Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert.. The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model. Few pix... just messing around.. And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width. Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis... I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues... Until next... frats, Rosco
  5. 2 points
    Hi folk, more testing.. But first - lathe..... as far as I can tell, I am now ready to go with turning wheels for the LJ. I set the lathe up today and took a test cut.... by golly, the old bearings and pre-load must have been way out... I'm a bit puzzled as to how I got the results I did... From the first cut - I knew..... this machine has never cut like it does now.... I can take such fine cuts that the material simply floats in the air...suspended, it's that fine.. and the finish of the cut is simply lovely.. still get the odd gouge here and there, my feed rate/speed/cut are nowhere near perfect.. but, I turned down some ali rod that was used on the last wheel I turned before the big replacement... then did a couple of passes with the HSS finishing tool I made..... pretty happy.. Pic.... I'll now set about writing down the specs for the new wheels - to fit the MJK Cortina/Escort tyres... hopefully, this time next week - we'll have four wheels.... with tyres fitted... and maybe even inserts... So - further to the above re floor polish, decals and lacquer paint... I have absolutely no qualm about spraying Tamiya clear lacquer over floor polish... I sprayed floor polish over the decals of the second Shadow today... left it one hour, then sprayed some of the decanted TS-13 plus a little more lacquer thinners mixed in... I used the Patriot this time to spray - and it is just as lovely as the others.... I'm not good yet at triggering the paint.. but have found I can simply hold down the trigger and keep the air continuous.. and am learning to pull back the trigger for paint flow.... fan width... and shutting it off again at the end of the stroke... all the time, keeping the trigger "down" ... never going to run out of air - with 14 cfm supply at hand.... Here is a pic of the Shadow - just after it was sprayed with lacquer clear coat.. the floor polish may have been "just" a little on the wet side... but I got impatient.. as I do, sometimes.... pic.. Lighting does not really do the finish justice.... you can see some parts of it where the reflection reveals just how good this paint is, using an airbrush... it "floods" on beautifully and flows out even better... I believe I'm now converted for using lacquer as a final top coat... So, Mr. Impatience... got the better of me.... raced inside and grabbed the LJ... didn't wash it, clean it... just dusted it off.. and sprayed two light coats of the lacquer clear directly over the compounded acrylic.... absolutely no issue either... well, not with the paint or reaction.. but, in my haste - just one "hair" found its way onto the roof.... and "bazingo!"... I now have a hair to compound out... Reality is, this was always going to be a test run... the coat is very thin.. just two passes.... PIc was taken less than 30 seconds after the second pass.. you can see it is still wet.... As it is now, it has pulled down beautifully... but, I'll compound it tomorrow and apply another coat of lacquer clear... then - we look to Patto's decals... maybe a compound before that... but it shouldn't need much of one.... I have every confidence now that Tamiya TS-13 can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic solids... Pic... You can clearly see "that" hair..... if I'd been my usual nervous "Myrtle".. I'd have washed, blown dried and air dusted this before spraying it... not to mention mounting it on a stand to spray... I simply grabbed it, raced it out to the booth in the garage... and "shot" paint... Ok... wheels tomorrow - and I will compound this clear coat on the LJ.. and respray - with all the care and attention that should have been applied today... frats, Rosco
  6. 2 points
    New chassis Mitsubishi Lancer WRC evo 7 Scalextric C2364
  7. 2 points
    New chassis Renault R5 maxi turbo Team Slot
  8. 2 points
    Stay tuned.... In case anyone is unfamiliar with the relevance of the expression "A Pack Of &^#%&*)*&" I already sent this video to Maurizio with a detailed explanation of what is required...... Let the plinth wars begin....... Suggested Plinth lettering Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey I actually thought it would make a great 3rd line if it could be squeezed onto the plinth. Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey " You're A Pack Of &^#%&*)*& " yeah , that works....... And in case anyone actually doesn't know his record Racing career summary Jim Richards Races entered 990 Wins 207 Podiums 510 Pole positions 78 Fastest laps 155 Race win percentage 20.9% Podium percentage 51.5%
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Like most of us, I have tuned a lot of slot cars over the years. Some go great from the get go. Some don't. Some I get frustrated with and put away in the storage drawer to be revisited another day. My frustrations are usually based around one of the performance brands - NSR /Slot It / Thunderslot. They should be straight forward and very easy to tune, but some cars just won't play ball and track performance isn't up to par. They aren't as fast or smooth as I know they should be, so in the drawer they go to be looked at another day. Weirdly, when I pull them out of the drawer (usually after in a few weeks time), they sometimes run far better - even though nothing has been done to them. A recent Sideways Toyota Celica is a case in point. When first built, gear mesh was good and the completed car felt 'free' and supple on the bench, but it was a dog on the track; lumpy and erratic under full power. I ran it at a club night and it was fast but jumpy; far from what I was looking for. Fast forward a month and I pulled it out of the drawer to tune it again, and it's a silky smooth runner that corners like it's on rails. My fastest car, a NSR Mosler, was built for the 2017 NZ Nationals. It was never a good car and consequently was never raced in anger. I spent hours on that bloody thing but eventually gave up on it. Mid way through last year I thought I'd have another go, but tested it it straight out of the drawer first. It started lapping my track right on record equalling pace. Weird, right? Am the only one who has seen this happen? I don't think my car storage drawers have secret tuning capability, but something's going on. Is the chassis 'relaxing' over time and does that somehow equate to a better drive and faster times? Are the tyres coming on under 'hibernation'? I have no clue. And before anyones asks, no you can't rent space in my storage drawers, and no, they aren't for sale.
  12. 2 points
    From MRE SCALEXTRIC BATMOBILE - you will all have noticed that this car comes with Batman but NO Robin ! Disgraceful - but there may be an answer. Today I have had discussions with the relevant people and can have a ROBIN figure created to go in the Scalextric car. I am happy to proceed with this if there is enough interest. Cost uncertain at the moment, and it would be supplied unpainted, but it would certainly complete the car. Please show your interest on the MRE Facebook page, or email to MRE directly at mre@mre.co.uk if you would be interested in a ROBIN figure for your Batmobile.
  13. 2 points
    We are back shipping from Monday, after a bit of a holiday over Christmas. I am pleased to announce that we are now distributors for Atalaya decals. Atalaya are based in Spain and produce over 1,500 decal sets, most of them livery accurate to a model, plus around 40 generic sets, and sets for NSR 86/89 cars and Policar Monoposto cars. We have begun with stocking most of the generic sets, and the sets for the monoposto cars - which are 2 sheets, or "wrap" style plus individual decals. We will bring in any specific customer order decals to order with re-stock orders. Check out their full range HERE
  14. 2 points
    Ok - we're about to shoot some colour..... but! My chosen Holts "radiant red" is of no use to me over Tamiya grey primer.... and I'm not prepared to attempt to spray an auto lacquer over the model so that I can... or it could very well result in the same disaster..... the thinners in the automotive paint are way too aggressive for the Tamiya paint... and I would further more than likely risk it fusing into the Tamiya putty beneath.... we would then be three weeks back to building up the putty.... not going to happen. I did some testing prior to mixing the paint up.... and have been saved despair. This testing clearly revealed that the automotive paint would have penetrated the primer - and putty.... so - it's out.... I am now in a conundrum as to paint again... but I believe I have come up with a solution. In the process of laying down a number of test patches inside the model - to compare the results over Tamiya grey primer - I have found that the Tamiya "red" acrylic - X-7 is not too far off the mark.. not as close as radiant red, but it's maybe only a hue or shade too "cyan" than it..... The radiant red breakdown was C 2, M 99, Y 100 and K 1..... the Tamiya X-7 is C 17, M 100, Y 100 and K 9...... Patto's ink is C 8m M 99, Y 100, K 1... so, what we have is just a tad more cyan in our Tamiya X-7.... and it will marry perfectly with both the Tamiya primer and putty.... The pic below reveals what would have eventuated if I'd gone ahead and sprayed up automotive paint (thinners, actually - the paint would have been fine)... The A9-X is at left, the underside of the LJ centre and the L-34 at right. As you can see, the paint used on both the A9-X and L-34 are very close to the Tamiya red (if not what was used at the factory in China).It's not as dark as I would like.. and I'm not going to mess with adding tint to it..... a nightmare, if ever I need to repair the paintwork... and small batches of "mix" simply don't stay matched for long periods. The six test strips inside the model, from left are.... Tamiya Mica Red in lacquer, Tamiya Red in lacquer, Tamiya X-7 red, Radiant red with lacquer thinners, Radiant red with Tamiya thinners, Radiant red as it was decanted out of the aerosol. You can clearly see that the last three have penetrated the grey primer.... resulting in a very much darkened outcome... I fear this penetration will also extend into the putty - and I am not going to risk that... Pic... So, we are going to mix up our X-7 with lacquer thinners and lay down a few coats until I get coverage.... hopefully, the Tamiya system will bring a satisfactory result.... I'm not planning on this being the final coat before decals, but we should get a fair indication of how the layers will settle down... Back later - exciting, isn't it? frats, Rosco
  15. 2 points
    Guessing it's another month until they do the Australian only releases. Hoping for: Grice Craven Mild A9X Rutherford/Guthrie A9X - would probably sell well in the US as well. Bartlett Camaro Z28 but may require too many alterations to make it look similar Brock, Seton or Bond Sierras Street toranas to run alongside the Falcons.
  16. 2 points
    Shaynus I have found 2 Scalextric XY/XW chassis in my spares boxes. PM sent. Oldskool62 I don't have any insider knowledge into the thought processes of slot car manufacturers but I'd suggest that for some establishing a spare parts inventory isn't high on their list of priorities. With many models having a defined production limit it is possible that the number of components produced is just enough to satisfy the production run, but there may be a small 'margin' to allow for quality control problems. However, the fact that it seems almost mandatory to equip each car with at least one 'wonky wheel' raises some doubt any quality control 'margin'. Perhaps the budget manufacturers are clever enough to realise that we 'serious enthusiasts' will source our spare parts from the up-market companies. Den
  17. 2 points
    Car 19 will be the same as entered in 2019 . 1962 Lotus 24 Climax . Body from PPL ,wheels PPS , rear tyres MJK , gears Slot it 9:23 , guide Slot it , Chassis by PeterD . Motor SRP18 .
  18. 2 points
    Ok Shayne, just a few pix especially for you, but others may be interested in some of my little arsenal of tools for modeling... To start with - two pix of the two scalpels I use... pretty much Exacto blades in a #1 pen tool holder. The one at top is the tool I go to for very fine work.. scribing lines, delicate cutting away of very fine areas. It has been honed down to about 1/3rd thickness of the original blade. The shape of the cutting edge has been formed naturally by the honing process of the edge. What you can't see, is just how sharp this invaluable tool is.... it is sharper than razor sharp - one slip with this and you are through to the bone and probably into it. Not only is the main cutting edge razor sharp - but so to the back, which is also honed.... this is the edge I use for "gouging" backwards once a track has been established by the cutting edge. The side of the blade is honed as well... so that it does not grab or drag if need to go deep into a cut. You can see by the extreme point of this that it means business - and simply has to be treated with the utmost care - let one of your fingers go beyond the safety of the handle or grip... and you will cut... and deep. One thing this blade will not do for long - is hold its edge... it has to be kept regularly honed up to be effective for purpose. This is not so hard to do, because the blade is so thin - it only takes a few passes over a diamond stone and we have that amazing edge ready again for work. It will not take any abuse.. being so thin, it will either break off (which I do regularly) or blunt if pushed beyond light cuts... not that you'd want to put any weight behind this - if it snaps - you'll more than likely fall victim to whatever is left of the blade as you hand leaps forward... it is absolutely sharp, and I would not recommend anyone hone one up unless you are fully prepared to treat it with the utmost of respect... The lower scalpel is pretty much a stock Exacto blade.. but I have honed it up. I have kept the original thickness of this blade for the heavy lifting work of cutting... I hone this blade as well... but keep it thick and usually only use a 600 or 800 diamond stone .... never to the 1000 one used for my fine scalpel.. it simply won't hold the edge long enough to be effective for more than a few cuts... so, we leave this blade with a rougher face - which is more tolerant of being pressed and worked hard. Pic.. Second pic below shows the thickness of the blade... the standard one below gives contrast to that of the fine work one.... as you can see, this fine one has virtually no body at all from 2/3rds of the way along the blade... the end and tip are almost as sharp if moved sideways as it is downwards. The rear of the blade is also honed... for gouging... so - any finger which gets near any of the front of this blade will be cut... and deep... And the final scalpel I have - is an "actual" scalpel.. a medical surgeon's one.... If ever you happen to chance on getting one of these - they are simply brilliant. I don't know what the steel is, but it hold its edge for just so long... compared to probably what the rest are that come out of China.... or similar. The surgeon's scalpel is oddly shaped - but practical for many jobs. The but of this blade fits into a tool that I don't know... it is very odd shaped. My suspicion is that nothing but one of these blades will fit the tool - and the fitting of any other type of blade simply can't be used in surgery.... other than that, I'm clueless. I use this blade mainly for decals and making very sharp lines in masking tape... And before long, someone is going to ask me to put some pix up of other tools I use for bodywork and painting.... I threw most of what I use onto my desk and will explain them below the pic.... Across the top, there are 7 of my "rubbing blocks". Stainless steel backing with neoprene rubber glued to them. All of these are wrapped with various grades of wet and dry paper... sometimes I use them wet - other times, dry.. depending on what I'm blocking down. I use either side of them depending on the surface required... if it must be plate finish flat - it's the steel.. if there has to be some slight curve in a panel - I use the rubber side. I have made the thickness of the rubber so that sufficient paper can be wrapped around it... mainly to be comfortable between my fingers as I work the panel... The seven different sizes are, of course - for different sized areas... The entire process is not too far removed from an auto panel shop.. if you want a plate finish in a panel - you have to work the surface down to get it.. and you have to have an equally matching surface on your tool to achieve it... Keeping your paper clean is just as important as the tool itself... it it even get remotely clogged.. you'll gouge tram tracks into your finish... so, I usually go wet and keep it clean .... any grinding causes immediate stop of work.. and it's usually a number of paint spots which have bonded together ..... paper change.... or damage.. Next below are some of my straight edges.... I use these a lot to get straight lines. I am not ashamed to admit I often use blue tack to hold these in place... laying them onto a painted or plastic surface and expecting one hand to hold them in place whilst the other one is armed with a very sharp blade... not going to happen. so - I put a dab of blue tack over the "top" of the tool to hold it in place... not under it..... or we risk the edge coming up away from the work while we move the blade along.... You can see one of the edges I used on the tail-lights of the Torana.... it's actually painted in Floquil "rust"... I used it as a stirring stick - and the paint "stuck"... never bothered to clean it off. At one end of this tool, you can see that I have cut and ground out a notch ... the tool then laid on the bumper bar.. and this notch was used to run the horizontal lines across the top of the lights... at the other end, another notch... and this one was used when the tool was placed under the spoiler... allowing a straight edge along the bottom of the lights. I'm not afraid to make tools.. and never throw them away... I have a boxful.. from projects spanning decades... nearly all of them are stainless... or brass... they just "last". At bottom, we can see a few of my puttying tools... the smaller ends have been ground for my needs.... I particularly like the small triangle "ironing" one... it pushes putty into some very awkward places... the triangled shape of the rear of this tool allows me to "iron" in the putty and push it into shape.... being smooth, it comes away fairly easily without pulling off putty... and being so - is easily cleaned with some lacquer thinner.... On each side, are my little "icy pole" inventions..... I have containers of wooden icy pole sticks... and I use them for many things... Here, we can see that I have used some cyano to glue on some wet and dry paper... on drop, and roll the paper around the stick keeping it in close contact... when the cyano goes off - simply cut away the excess and you have a four edged sanding stick... Cutting the stick down to size to get into tight spots (like the quarter vents in the Torana) makes it easy to work in tight places... You can simply add more paper over the worn out bit.. but I usually just go find another stick.... cheap, but they work. If ever you want to get a mirror finish on paint.... go to your auto paint supplier and ask for some 2500 grit wet and dry, whilst you are there - get some 1500 and 2000 as well.... Use the rubbing blocks and work the surface back and forth.... for finite work, you can also add just a smidge of dishwashing liquid to lubricate the paper.. but it will slow the cutting process. Remember - if you "feel" or "hear" anything when you are rubbing - stop... you will be "gouging" your work... And to bring up a final mirror finish to this process... go get some Tamiya polishing compound.. I have it in two different grades.... a coarse and a fine. I like to work the finish up by hand, but it's not rare for me to fit a calico wheel to the Dremel and buff a finish up that way.... just be warned, too fast or too much pressure and you will destroy the paint.... the film of paint on a model should be wafer thin... so, we don't have a lot to work down through... Applying more paint to be able to work up a finish by applying more pressure is defective logic... you simply are only filling in precious detail... you will get the finish you want regardless of how thick the paint is... the thinner you can keep the entire process - the more difinitive will be your detail.... we are not "weather proofing" a model with a coating... it's never going to stay out in the sun and rain for weeks on end... but, it will get a workout with "marshall's" mitts and the odd "off"... so, our top coat should be fairly resilient.. not necessarily meaning "thick"... Ok.. that should do it for now... happy to answer any questions.... frats, Rosco
  19. 2 points
    Progress has been slow to say the least, but, the body is finished...... This is an AMT 1/24 Lola T70 from 1966,.....the kit was somewhat incomplete, so i did make/replace a few bits (apologies to the purists),..but,..I did invariably modify my cars as a kid, so, I can live with it The chassis is not done yet, and I will post a shot in a couple of days when completed. Cheers,..and Happy New Year Chris Walker The colour is Tamiya "Champagne" gold, and although this is a fantasy livery, it does look like it could belong on a 65/66 USRRC/CanAm Lola. The gauges do look quite realistic, despite my crummy photo. I have made a small aluminum rear lip spoiler......debating on whether to stick it on. The wheels are not original,.....they are Russkit Lola T70 1 piece cast aluminum......gorgeous !! And the yet unfinished AMT chassis,.....a few wire braces, a brass front axle tube, and a much modified AMT 36D motor.
  20. 2 points
    Hi folks, I have posted on a different forum my latest work in miniaturising digital slot car decoders. And thought I should post a quick summary here too. As a hobbyist venture I have built functioning SSD-compatible digital decoders with dimensions of 10.8mm by 5.4mm. The thickness is 4.4mm. The decoders have motor/brake circuits and change lanes and count laps on SSD. I am now working on smaller designs... next a 8mm x 5mm design... then smaller still c [my handle on slotform is Dr_C... but not everyone likes doctors including me ... so renamed myself as c-type... after my favourite racing jag]
  21. 2 points
    As promised - pix in khaki etch primer. We can now see where work is to be done.. the etch primer reveals some of the voids and areas which need further work. It's a bit hard to see this when the contrasting shades of putty, cast resin and previous sanded down primer draws attention away from detail or blemishes... Primer will go on next, then we'll start work on correcting the flaws.... hopefully, by the end of next week - we'll be in a solid Radiant red colour - ready for decals. Pix.....Australian Army livery of the LJ XU-1... The benefit of metho based etch primer, along with it not being aggressive on putties... is that it dries very quickly - a light coat can be primed in as little as 30 minutes after spraying... Ok.. back later with some more progress.. frats, Rosco
  22. 2 points
    Let me know if you want a couple of motors and where you are? Once I have the Morris Torana running I am going to trial it with a 28 crown gear to see how the braking is. As mentioned this motor has a little more grunt than the SRP but isn’t like the Scalextric FF which is just too much in my opinion. I ran my Brock Torana against my Moffat race tuned Falcon when my son was down the other day and they were a good match. The Falcon had a little more legs down the straight but the Torana had better braking so they were reasonably even. Looked good running around together.
  23. 2 points
    Ok folk, Wasn't happy with first grille - 0.42 mm brass is too thick. Not to mention, when I was doing my final file/sand - four of the verticals inside the grille fell out... I got them all back in, but it's a mongrel of a job to do... fiddly as all heck. I think in my mind then, I was already working on revision 1 - and a better way of cutting the parts and assembling them.. I found some 0.25 mm brass shim sheet and decided I'd have a go at cutting the 12 pieces needed out of that. This time, I decided that I'd fit the verticals in from the rear. The issue with doing so from the front is that the excess has to be sanded off - and any of these bars which did not get soldered properly to the horizontals will simply fall out when the main body is removed.... which I found out. So - some pix... Here is the 0.25 mm brass shim marked out through some engineer's "blue". I have used a jeweller's saw to slit the verticals. In future, should I ever do this again - I will be more precise with the slits. It was during assembly that I realised some of them weren't straight - and I had to fit them into a vice and re-slit them. All but two were rectified. As you will see in later pix, two of them simply refused to go in where needed, resulting in the upper horizontal not running parallel with the rest in two places. I am not going to disassemble this to correct it, and will have to live with it - the next one will be more accurate. We have cut out the 12 parts. You can see that I have left the excess on the front of the horizontals - this is for positioning into slits in a wooden jig I made... to get the rake of the grille correct. In this pic, we can see the horizontals fitted into the slits of the jig.... and the depth of the slits to set the rake... And here we have the assembled grill - complete with Holden badge. It was a bit tricky to make that little piece up. I ended up using a pair of surgical clamp pliers to hold it whilst I profiled the shape. It is angled back each side from centre and there is a slight bevel on all edges. Getting it to solder in place took considerable time, effort and patience - I don't know ho many times I re-positioned it, only to find it wasn't either centre, square on to the front of the model or set far enough back.. but, I got there... And here we have the original and revision 1... I believe it well worth the effort to use the 1/4 mm shim sheet.... I'm pretty happy with the result, but disappointed in those two upper sections not being parallel to the other horizontals.... next time... To change ends of the model - I am re-working the rear... I have re-profiled the rear number plate and removed the front one altogether - as was the case with PB's Bathurst car. I will fill those unsightly gouges I put into the tail-lights somewhat with thinned down putty.. and straighten them up. This will leave them picked out, but not as deep. I am hoping to paint around the trim of these with as close a paint as I can get to chrome... I have also started work on the front - it's not quite right.... mainly the height of the bonnet and guards at front... and also the headlight surround areas... I have filed and sanded these down and am struggling to get the exact profile using putty.. I'll get close, but I fear the casting has the surrounds set too far forward to get the slightly "hooded" look over the headlights ... I should get a lot closer than the casting... but don't believe I'll get exact to the proto-type.. and I really don't want to make up a new "face" to fit.... I believe the grille and these little "adjustments" will bring the model pretty close to proto - but any Torana owner/enthusiast will more than likely pick my failures... So, this model is about to go into its second year on my workbench... from experience, whether it's a locomotive or slot car - my scratch building seems to take me around three months of actual work... we haven't got near the chassis yet - my lathe still awaits attention to fit the replacement spindle bearings... maybe when I get colour onto the body - we'll go to the lathe next... although I have two locomotives on my bench awaiting attention as well.... Don't retire, folk - you won't have time to spare..... frats, Rosco
  24. 1 point
    Hi folk, AusPost delivered two of my latest purchases today - A Mr Slotcar Mclaren F1 GTR white kit, and this amazing Thunderslot McLaren Elva Mk.1. I was particularly taken with the Elva McLaren when I viewed it coming up as a pre-order. This is the car that Elvis drove (supposedly drove, but at least he sat in it) in the 1965 movie.... The detail is very good.. lovely, in fact. I am yet to pull off the body from the chassis - Thunderslot, apparently - use a different screw.. looks like a posidrive, but until I get out all my little special bits.. I haven't been able to get "under the bonnet".... Some pix.... I hadn't noticed the join line until viewing the close up pic of the drivers names.... it's on both sides and I'm a little unsure why it's there. The joint is secure... it could have been sanded down better prior to painting... unless it is prototypical of the model.. Also, for those who have now seen the pix.... did you notice anything "wrong" with detail.... again, unless this is also proto-typical.... clue - take a look a the wheels..... all the wheels... As for the configuration being "sidewinder"... this is a bit of a rouse.. for, the motor is angled slightly... and the crown is very thin.. like an anglewinder... I don't know if this is Thunderslot practice... and I suspect this will not be the last Thunderslot model I purchase.... so far, very impressed.. The very fine mesh each side of the engine is worth drooling over.. I love this detail - it is rare to find it in slot cars.. but identifies a clear delineator in model railways... I have included a pic of the model mounted in the jewel case base..... take note! other manufacturers... if Thunderslot have the nouse to include a raised platform which keeps tyres up off the deck - so should you... and avoid me having to glue icy pole sticks to my jewel cases for every other model I have purchased.... please - take notice of this very nice little addition.. some thought put into the preservation of the model here... not just marketing presentation... This little model will not get a run until October.. when we set up our layout for Bathurst weekend... along with the additional 8 other models I have amassed since last having a track to run on... It will not be used as a competition car.... it, like so many of my others - is a collector..but, I will use it... I know my wife will fall in love with this car... along with the Corvette Stingray I bought her a couple of years back... she loves that car.. always have, and when one came up on the Carrera list... I simply had to get it for her..... along with the 9 1/4 inch Makita saw - I bought that for her too.... I just knew she'd love it... so, didn't hold back.... by golly, I'm such a kind and thoughtful person, aren't I? Ok.. happy to answer any questions on the model... there is also another two drivers names beneath Hill and Presley... one is Bruce McLaren.. I have not been able to squint hard enough under a magnifying glass to make out the other one.. this detail is absolutely miniscule.... I'll add some more pix when I get the bonnet up.... frats, Rosco
  25. 1 point
    Sorry to disappoint those expecting the final two wheels.... no work done today, lot of catching up around the house and in the garage... plus - too darned hot to be turning a lathe. And.... lots of mopping up in here... drool over the floor - after getting the latest of two additions to my slot garage... the little Elva is exquisite... see new thread with 9 pix. Wheels tomorrow... pix tomorrow night.. trust me, I was with the government.... sort of.. frats, Rosco
  26. 1 point
    Hear hear Oldskool62. Agree too that magnet is very hard on cars. Non-magnet is much more fun. Once you get used to lesser grip you will never want to go back. With magnet might soon get bored with just going flat out all the time with little skill required. Just my thoughts having bee down both paths. Agree NSR F1 is great car out of box. Thunderslot are probably better but have a less powerful motor. Regards Chas L:e Breton (charlesx)
  27. 1 point
    Quick update - gave Monsignor Ferrari a laugh over the driver names and plinth script. it shall of course appear with both drivers - yet to respond to my appeal for a third line quoting Jim ....
  28. 1 point
    It was a while ago but I think it was Tamiya TS34 Camel Yellow. I had already painted a Slot.it white kit McLaren F1 Longtail in it with Green stripes for a race car and when the Torana came along it seemed pretty close. When I saw the 1:1 version I think it was close enough that it worked.
  29. 1 point
    Mine is a Munter Torana, he did a vac form interior so I used that.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    "And before anyones asks, no you can't rent space in my storage drawers, and no, they aren't for sale. " and there I was reading through the post thinking I will ask for your address to send you a box of cars to put in the drawer I have no answer - my only suggestion is you have a house elf that likes tuning slot cars - leave a plate of cookies in the drawer if they're gone come morning you have the answer
  32. 1 point
    Must be nice to get a 'thank you'. I would imagine most correspondence would be 'where is my stuff?' , which is out of your hands
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    The original "Spirit of the rule" was that you shouldn't see any of the "chassis" when looking from above. What we meant by that was the things that you should not have seen when looking from above were, the guide, the chassis rails, the motor and the crown (we did make an allowance for cars with the short rear). Suspension items etc. were not included. We also encouraged effort in the driver/cockpit area so that the chassis and motor was not visible through the cockpit. We always hoped to encourage participation by keeping it simple and not discourage people with "rivet counting".
  35. 1 point
    The elevations were a combination of an MDF stone wall & laser printed sheets of rock wall (very quick, but OK for the short term : Sneak peak of the Longford Pub in the background !
  36. 1 point
    Oldskool62, You're right on the money in thinking about using an HRS2 chassis for your HQ Monaro build. I have several HRS and HRS2 chassis and find their versatility so helpful. My latest conversion was to use an HRS2 sidewinder under a Revell Lola T70 body. Den
  37. 1 point
    I use PostImage, OS-62..... bit of a pain not being able to post direct into our forum, but it doesn't take a lot to upload to PostImage - then copy the provided link and simply paste into your thread..... let me know if I can help. Link to PostImage..... it's free, and seems to work pretty well for me - only downside with being free - pix have to be uploaded separately... just a bit of an inconvenience. https://postimages.org/ But, compared to my previous host - where I did a huge amount of work on many other forums..... and then they all disappeared because they wanted money.... grrrrr So far so good with PI..... frats, Rosco
  38. 1 point
    Totally different kettle of fish. Scalextric opted to make the XB/C wider than scale by about 3-4mm and the XY/W 2-3mm narrower than scale dims, where there should only been about 1mm difference between the 2 models.
  39. 1 point
    I'd love to have masked and spray the white, Shaynus - which would have demanded that I spray white first, and over coat with red.... always, dark over light when masking. The only reason I have decided against doing my own "work" - is the very fine pin striping that Patto has provided in his decals.... He has deleted the red ink from the decals - hence why I have sprayed the model red.... When the decals are applied over the red base..... the pin striping will show through... in red - obviously, the deleted ink simply is clear film..... the white of the decal is going to be my "panel" work... how it comes up over my work I am yet to find out. We have a long way to go before we look at decals.... I am ever hopeful, that this model will be a kind reflection of the car it is attempting to replicate in scale.... we'll see. Just a bit disappointed at present - that will all change when I address this paint issue... I'll overcome it, just means a bit of work.... probably saw the result before I commenced the paint process... vision, eh?... might have had my "rosco" blinkers on... thanks for your kind words - and yes, some would simply fit a chassis under this result and enjoy putting in a few laps.... might have to keep the model moving, we wouldn't want to risk anyone actually focusing on it..... frats, Rosco
  40. 1 point
    Nice split personality look on the middle pic! I assume you use a soft (sponge) block to rub back? What sort of grade wet & dry do you use at this stage?
  41. 1 point
    A good couple of hours with Smithy burning rubber and chin wagging.
  42. 1 point
    @mus-28 if they bring out what you say; my credit card will be getting hammered. The Grice car would be great. As for the Bartlett car; if they are bringing out the 1980 z28 then the Bartlett car may become a reality. That car would sell quite well in America as it is pretty well known amongst our American friends. As a matter of fact I was discussing that car on a forum in the states.
  43. 1 point
    I've printed off plenty of different combinations for all the different Mabuchi style motors, feel free to pm me.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks OS-62... I didn't see it, but I need to adjust the grille - it's positioned pointed upwards.... the rake is built in, and will show up when I re-position the grille to face forward... Didn't see it until I looked at the pix... Still in etch, had trouble with putty not setting hard yet.. so, primer tomorrow... a few coats, then guide coat - and hope to start blocking it down Thursday - still aiming for colour Friday. Working on S class loco's again for now.... too cold out in the garage to start on the lathe - don't like exposing it to moisture whilst it's not being worked.. frats, Rosco
  45. 1 point
    I think the easiest cars to pick up will be the Scalextric XB, XC, XW and XY Falcons and L34 and A9X Torana’s. There are two Bathurst winners released recently there and you could pick up some others to strip and repaint. Any of the retailers sell them and what might be out of stock in a slotcar retailer might be available in a hobby shop. If you want Supercars you may be best to look around for Scalextric ones to repaint. England released some with generic liveries that I have been able to find on line a few years ago pretty cheap. Glad to see another new member and you building a track for the grand kids. I had my grand son on mine for the first time over Christmas and he had fun. Had to turn the power down but at nearly 4 he has some way to go.
  46. 1 point
    Pretty sure all the cars and decals will be covered......if you’re starting from 1960 you might struggle to get a Vauxhall Cresta ..lol.. thinks like ve and vl commodores may not be around, been out of the game for awhile so not sure of what resin shells are being cast at the moment and a lot of the winners have been done by scalextric already
  47. 1 point
    I'll definately be grabbing this one, love it will be great to race it against my Brock car
  48. 1 point
    Hi all. Well time has passed since my last post on this. Sold the house I built in the interim and have been trackless for over 4 years. Well no more. I had Zegas on these forums design me a track but I have since changed my mind (sorry Grant). My new track is being CNC'ed as we speak. Should get it back this Thursday to start working on it, Here is my new design.
  49. 1 point
    Working on the roof quickly showed up my lack of competence......the angles of the joins were very challenging. At least the craft paper option gave a reasonably good corrugated iron look. Finally, the trim & base.......with an appropriate car in the foreground.
  50. 1 point
    Now running 2 of these rockets the surtess one is carrying the standard chassis with NSR slicks on the back glued and trued and the full suspension kit, plus weight in the centre and up front not a lot, the Bonnier one has had more work done to it as well as the weight put into it, fitted the hard chassis and pod , Cobra 25 K motor slot it gears and pinion same spec as the original set as that seems to be the way to go on a medium size circuit, Slot it N22's on the rear glued and trued and full suspension kit, ( part number TSLSUSK003 ) on plastic this makes a differance especially in the way i set the springs up nice easy job as the system is that easy , slightly harder on the back , softer on the other three mounts , guessing on wood you would harden up all round, performance is quite astonishing especially the Bonnier one with that motor in killed my P68,s all round and the way you can take a double S brings a smile to the face, these cars are great out of the box but with a bit of tuning really are rockets.
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