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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  2. 3 points
    I originally built this to compete in the 2020 Tasman Proxy series, obviously with all that has happened that didn't happen so with the 2021 series being planned I thought it would be a nice thing to get the car finished, Just a couple of the car..... As in previous years the car features the FF050 motor with 9:24 off set SlotIt inline gears, Pauls tyres all round and all up it weighs in at around 55 grams. Initial testing saw the car lapping around my place at 4.7 or so which although a little off the pace from 2019 still fairly okay, hopefully further tidying up may see the car a tad quicker. Not too sure if this car will front the 2021 grid as I have a Ferrari 158 on the jig and that is now half done, Funny thing that once I got back onto the build I'm all refreshed and looking forward to getting the Ferrari done with a Honda RA271 also planned, Hope you like the pics Terry
  3. 2 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  4. 2 points
    Ok folk, bit more done..... car is now track ready.... as follows - Rear tyres glued with water based contact adhesive - then trued up. Radius made on outer tyre edges... Then I had some serious thinking to do - the front axle/wheels/tyres.... whether to true them up or not. In this model, the axle does not run in nylon bushes - but is pushed through a hole each side of the chassis - a bit of a disappointment. I had to decide on whether to remove a wheel - which I hate doing with platic wheels - or to cut into the chassis and remove the axle assembly intact... I chose to cut the chassis - and came up with a way which may prove useful to others who also do not want to pull wheels from axles.. I used a Dremel and cut a "keyhole" into the top of each side of the chassis. The axle was then able to be "sprung" out... intact. Not interfering with the circle chassis bush of the hole except for a small segment above the axle..... just enough to flex the chassis apart to free it.... With the axle out - I sanded off the black paint from the steel axle..... and loaded the assembly into my wheel truer... In this pic, you can see the small amount of cut-away in the chassis.... From the side... And here we have the front axle assembly in the machine - truing down the wheels and then tyres... again, gluing them to the wheels using water based contact adhesive. The front axle has been re-fitted and the chassis set up on the plate.... I have set the height of the front axle here.... and am about to make up some styrene card retainers for the inside of the chassis axle hole... On the plate - from the front.. In this pic, you can see that I have fabricated some axle retainers... in the same style as that cut into the chassis - except, they are mounted inverted. I used two laminations of 0.030" styrene card on each side... the axle "runs" in the hole .. which also lines up with that in the chassis - so, in effect - we have twice the thickness of plastic for the axle to use as a hard fitted bush.. With the axles, wheels and tyres all now set up on the plate - I now turn my attention to the terrible guide arrangement.. i simply don't like these "quick change" guides that Scalextric have taken a liking to use..... they flop all over the place... but, the saving grace is that the guide hole in the chassis is square to the set up plate.... so, we don't have to go and re-invent the post holder... pic.... And here is the top of the guide - you can see the molding pips in it - they result in a lot of the "wobble" these guides make .... but not all of it... In this pic, you can see that I've been in with some wet/dry and a rubbing block... removed the pips and left a nice flat turntable for the guide to pivot on... Next up - you can see the terrible amount of "post" that protrudes up through the post hole.... fitting the retaining screw leaves way too much clearance and the guide flops all over the place - up and down, tilting forward and back - and side to side...... I filed the top of the post so that the flat head of the retaining screw was an almost clearance free fit.... the guide now has barely any wobble or float in it.... I simply don't like this arrangement - but for club purposes - left it in there instead of replacing it with a Slot-It guide.... I detest the contact strips, which are sandwiched between the top of the braid and the turntable of the chassis.... Scalextric have completely lost the "KISS" principle here - but, I must say - it makes for quick changes of braid - not that any track owner should maintain their track so that people have to change braids often.... grrrrr And the Quick Change braid assembly..... it slides over the rear of the guide blade and pushes back once in position to retain it.... more room for things to "move" that should be firm and secure.... As stated, I don't like this - if anything can go wrong - it will.... and will usually do so at a critical opportunity. We can clearly see here the "sandwich" of the contact plate making contact with the top of the braid.... I much prefer the simple Slot-It alternative where an eyelet is pressed into the front of the guide.... and we have direct contact between the motor power lead and the braid.... The guide is now fitted to the chassis - and you can see that all five contact points (four tyres and braid) are all in the same plane on the set-up plate.. Ok, here's a little gem that I stole from my r/c helicopter hobby.... secret weapon for "lubricating" plastic on plastic....... 2B greylead pencil..... graphite, in short - but not in powder form... just a "wiping" of it on the mating surfaces. it neither attracts fluff/grit/crud nor goes hard... or ever seems to wear off..... it's lighter than can be measured and simply works a treat.... just "color in" the mating surfaces for a treat and forget option to any other form of lube... Ok - as far as I am prepared to go for now - the model is track ready.... I have run the motor with the model inverted for a few hours - and it now runs very sweetly indeed.. the first two hours were just at 3v... then a bit of up and down the register to 6V for the next hour whilst beavering away on another project. When I first ran the model on the bench, it took nearly 1.5V for the motor to turn the rear wheels.... after this bench running - it now begins to turn the rear wheels at just 0.5v and it will maintain that constant turning at this low voltage without any hesitation or fluctuation..... as stated, the next bit is to put some track together and give it a bedding in on its own four feet... And finally, we come to another secret weapon I employ - we go to an awful lot of effort to true up wheels and tyres.. then screw the model down onto the floor of a jewel case - not me! I make up some spacers to fit under the chassis - so that when the model is screwed down - the tyres are up and away from the floor of the case.... so too, the braid... I have yet to start applying Patto's decals - when I get my mitts on some Microsol and Microset (coming from WA, and the Isle of Wight at present).... So, for now - probably put this thread on hold until I have some more pix of the completed model - or, I get off my butt and put some track together... frats, Rosco
  5. 2 points
    Managed to get involved with todays discussions, great bunch of guys at the table of knowledge, i know it's early for us but if you get a chance to join in it's a great place to talk about anything and everything slotcar related, there's not a great difference between countries when it comes to setups as well.
  6. 2 points
    Part of the Shell Racing Team with Norm Beechey. Peter Manton Mini BRM 1/24 classic Mini white kit. Decals for both cars came from Pattos. A nice partner for the Chevy Nova I just need to find a 1/24 MKII Cortina now. I see also noted that The Parts Box does a HK Monaro - so will get one of those and do it up as well. I also picked up a Cavalier Models HT Monaro - so may look at re-popping and then doing the yellow Beechey Monaro cheers David
  7. 2 points
    Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
  8. 1 point
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  9. 1 point
    Because of the covid situation i had decided to run 4 rounds in Athens but my plans failed: -The most interesting would be a brand new Policar track but the owner had to deal with serious(noncovid)health issues of one of his family members so i would not dare asking to run he race we had agreed -i could race solo a 3rd Ninco track, but racing 2 races solo proved quite exausting ,and one more Ninco track would not provide additonal information. Some comments: -the J _R motor seems more consistent than the BWA and my feeling is that the cars are more pleasent to drive with 1,5-2k of additional rpm.Exceptions --- (A)car #1 11280 rpm it is either a faulty motor or my tachometers error but especially on Creative Hobby track if felt slow on the long straight and --- (B) car #2 16762 rpm lucky you Kevan -it looks that gear ratio 9/24 is the way to go.The cars affected most by wrong ratio are 28,87,658,11,86,i have the feeling they could be fighting for podiums Below is a table showing scores after 2 races and car data.Please help me to fill the blanks.There could also be some mistake in pinion count ,please correct me,it wasnt easy counting teeth without removing which did not.Car 98 is missing pinion and crown data because it has a Policar gearbox and it is impossible to count without removal. Time to start packing. P.S. there a couple of cars we would like to keep permanently here but not his time: 21 and 87 for me and 5 for Nick
  10. 1 point
    Hi guys new here just in the process of rebuilding my old Artin 4 lane plastic track 1/32. Will post pics as the build proceeds. Im hoping to get a club running down this way if there is anyone in the area and interested. Phil
  11. 1 point
    I didn't have any issue with the order... it has been dispatched. Although too late now - I might suggest not making this availability "known" to others outside our hobby..... it would be nice to keep this channel of opportunity open. Shaynus - some of those scratch built loco's took me nearly three months.... not so much constructing the basic dimensions (which were all scanned from line drawings and scaled down to size at 1/87th).... but the detail... some if it is quite intricate - but very rewarding for the end result. The brass/white metal kits (not cheap, and no longer available) took me a little bit less time - but learning to solder white metal to itself, and to brass..... painstakingly slow. Many don't do this, and simply use superglue - it is a flawed option - the glue breaks down in time with the composition of the metal... and parts of loco's simply either fall off - or apart. See if I can find a pic or two of a couple of brass/white metal kits.... not that this is a model railway forum... The carriages in the pic below are styrene kit... very detailed - two weeks each approximately. The B class loco is a kit bash - two A7 loco's cut into bits and re-assembled to create this "one off" double ended ML-2 loco that only came to Victoria.... The T class loco below is the last loco I was building before we moved home to out here in Mooroolbark - that move put a page break in my model railway hobby, which hasn't yet been picked up from.... soon, I am getting the urge... The loco is nearly finished - missing side plates on the bogies, couplers, hose couplings and final weathering.... another was on the building board, which I've just found whilst looking for my Microsol... and I'll bring that out before much longer and continue.... might take a pic of it, it's only reached the basic outline assembly stage in styrene card... happy to post up progress here in this thread if anyone is interested... There are boxes and boxes of wagons and carriages to be assembled.. and no less than four brass/white metal locomotive kits... two X class, one N and what will be a six month mission - the R Class steam loco - of which I am qualified as firemen for...... although, at nearly age 66 - I'm coming to an end on it... so physically demanding - takes me three days to recover from one 14 hours shift up there... My railway modeling "policy" is that I do not model anything I have not either driven, or fired on.... a reflection, if you like.... or "badge"... a 40 year career as driver and fireman plus 50 years as volunteer fireman (current) on our beloved little Puffing Billy steam railway here in the Dandenongs.... as one great mentor once told me, you can take the man out of the Railways - but you can't take the Railway out of the man..... frats, Rosco
  12. 1 point
    I am amazed that Sydney solvents sold you MEK. I think Oz law is similar to NZ, and MEK is very popular for processing a few kinds of "non-generic pharmaceuticals", made from certain wild green vegetables grown in home hydroponic facilities commonly located in ceilings and garages, and in the bakehouses for Contact NP. When I worked for a chemical wholesaler 25 or so years back, we knew a few things we sold were used in "street pharma"; so eventually we worked out a system. When the dodgy customer came to the counter, employee #1 would nip out back to secure their requirements, and request employee #2 to watch the exit door from outside and get the number plate. As they left #2 would ring the local narc squad with the details and description of said dodgy fella. We would generally get an unofficial heads up on the very satisfying and often amusing outcomes. These fella are generally not that smart, and between police tails and known addresses of interest, we helped reduce the flow to the streets quite nicely. Unfortunately, they eventually caught on and began to secure their "purchases" overnight via burglary, without bothering to engage with staff or make payment.
  13. 1 point
    Some great tips here thanks for posting.
  14. 1 point
    Ok, thought I'd get this done before I get lost outside in the garage and forget... Just took a handful of pix - pretty much should cover all of this... First up - the factory positioning of the bumper.... And my modified positioning... some might believe that it's actually now pointing downwards - but if you look at the rear of the model - you'll also see that it optically seems to be doing the same at the back end.... Here is my #2 car - the chassis and body as mounted at the factory - I will not mess with this car, other than decals and that blasted front bumper... Here is what I ended up with so far with #1 car.... magnet gone, DPR socket and panel gone, chassis trimmed for body float.... This is where I have got to so far with the interior hacking - with the body mounted on the chassis, only looking down through the windows to the floor reveals anything missing... But the hack has made a big difference to overall weight of the car... And here we have my "modified" chassis - DRP socket and leads gone... everything shortened and trimmed to length.. And here it is as it comes out of the factory - oil still present in this model.. but I did wipe away a pool of it under the crown - obviously, the running of the driveline was tested at the factory - I doubt that I'll ever run this model... even as a comparison to #1. And - as stated - Scalextric got the chassis of this one right - both my models sit perfectly flat on the set up plate... you can see in this pic that all four wheels sit nicely on the plate.... I am yet to true the wheels, then glue the tyres and true those up ..... along with setting the bushes in the chassis - I'm really hoping this model will be ever so much better than the L-34 has been.... Hope that just about covers it.... decals to come yet too - that will make a great difference to the look of the model... and I have to do something about PB - the driver in this model is nothing like him... probably closer to Jim Richards - which may very well have been the subject... frats, Rosco
  15. 1 point
    The first batch of cars is on the way home signed for : 1,21,2,87,658,28,5,111,11,20 .Please drop me a line when they arrive
  16. 1 point
    Ok folk, Bumper job done... plus grinding/cajoling out the lower radiator intake.... Front - Top - Side - I believe I have got location, placement and angle pretty close - with the "rib" of the channel in the bumper running parallel to the skirt of the body, and the amount of set-out from the front just enough to be able to see the very feintest of gap between the body and the rear of the bumper... I have now to trim Patto's water-slide Marlboro decals then a final light clear coat to finish the body... With #2 A9-X - my intention now is to simply "slice" away at the bumper mount from underneath.... again, my preferred method is to use a fine pointed very sharp scalpel blade and draw it backwards along the cut - having first made a very careful "forward" cut to mark the line.... I'll keep gouging this out with the blade until the bumper can be angled level... then cement it in place. I am using a new-to-me cyano - which is working a treat on plastics.... "Tarzan's GRIP ShockProof Super Glue...."rubber toughened".... it seems to be able to get a hold of differing plastics that I have always had trouble with. Further - although the title suggests it's flexible - it really doesn't seem so - but I have not broken anything off by knocking it yet.... it might just be a winner for our slot car application. Bought mine from the Big Red Hammer store - bit exxy.. but........ if it works....... frats, Rosco
  17. 1 point
    Really feeling for you Napier Lads in the flood zone. My stepson included in this area. Hope todays rain doesn't make is worse Dave. Well lads , The start up collection is now complete will all classes of cars covered over the 5 week schedule. See you this Thursday .
  18. 1 point
    My Slot it McLaren M8D has been on my mind for a couple of years now ever since I did this livery for my Plafit 1/24th Can-Am. The Slot it turned out way better than I expected & has made me re-think on the colour for my Plafit & maybe a repaint will happen down the track. Lately I've tried the Bunnings Squirts as a replacement for my usual Tamiya rattle cans as was suggested by some one on this forum,more than happy with the results at more than 1/2 the price of Tamiya & twice as much paint is music to a pensioners hip pocket My main aim was to change the livery so I wasn't too interested in converting a M8D into a M8E,6 months ago when i was planning the build i was going to fill in the bottom of the side skirts to make it more slab sided & more like a M8E but decided the leave it alone,either way it looks sensational. After filing the origional wing down to replicate the M8E I was lucky to stop where I did as I broke through on the left rear guard,just a small hole that I can live with. Here's what I started with. . Here's the Vic Elford livery host online image . Slot it 1/32 with Plafit 1/24th big brother. . Cheers Jimmy
  19. 1 point
    I have just purchased two of these A9-X's.... hopefully, I'll be able to kit-bash and change the livery for the second year's running... frats, Rosco
  20. 1 point
    Bump... we're back. 4 months up north in Qld escaping the winter and troubling virus down here in Vic.. timing was perfect. Ok.... we probably need to pick up a bit from where we left off. I have now ordered some different tyres - I was not in love with the wide tyres in these builds, and have ordered two sets for the 13" Cortina.... I will make up wheels to suit both the Munter inserts and these tyres... now that I believe I can achieve this My lathe is still in bits - having left the job when we made our dashed escape out of this state back in June.. so, I'll need to fit those tapered roller bearings to that and set it up before we can get to any wheel turning... I have chased up decal sets for both the LC and LJ XU-1's of PB... and they should arrive in the coming week - thanks Patto - really looking forward to getting an optic on these. Patto suggested I have the red deleted from printing - as I have chosen to do.... this will allow me to airbrush the LJ in white then mask up and spray the red.... the decals will finish this model off beautifully.... I hope. As for the LC - I will have to do quite a bit of research into this "kit bash" model... I know what I want - and it will be the HDT version of the LC... at this stage. Further, I have now ordered two of PB's A9-X Torana's.... I will change the livery of the second one to bring it in line with successive years that PB ran these cars. My Allan Moffat 1969 XW GTHO arrived... what where Scalextric thinking?... those wipers!.... have to go.... I have the three set now of '69, '70 and '71 of these great period winners... but, the wipers on all three will have to be made up and the "tree branches" removed... So folk - we're back... and I will have to get a footing on where I was before we left..... lots of work around the house, cleaning up the van and truck yet before I can commit to serious modeling - but, we're back on deck and I am very keen to return to modeling... frats, Rosco
  21. 1 point
    Hey guys, been a while since I have been on over here. You all are turning out some great looking cars usual. We are racing NASTRUCK as one of the classes in my local club this year. So I finally got to build up one of my new 2NASTE chassis for myself. I built this to run in our classes that allow the scholer, sloting plus and scaleauto chassis. They are getting very hard to get here and I wanted to add some durability since we run mainly S16d power. So I did brass and all stainless steel bracketry. This is my Chevy built on that platform, I have done a small number of these and have been selling them through my FB and on Ebay. Fun cars, fast, and can be built up in a night or less! I am going to try and get a Can Am car going on this chassis next... Zack
  22. 1 point
    This came from a fellow Slot Car racer, thought you guys might enjoy it as much as I did, classic.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    If I enter when this proxy is run again I might switch to the Opel. If not I'll go for a lexan interior and see what else I can do. The Opel appears from the pictures to have a lower cab height thus lower CG. Correct me if I'm wrong. May also look at some other DTM cars with a lower stance. Got to get Low, get low, low low!!!!!!
  25. 1 point
    Sad to hear, saw a photo of him recently and thought he looked like death warmed up, another one that'll be missed, at least he is immortalised on film. I think i'll be digging out "Man who would be King" and give it another watch.
  26. 1 point
    Cheers Dick. I enjoy the process of building elements up, just have to chip away on a section at a time Yeah that was my general thinking too re adapting to the light levels. Had a bit of a session last night, first in a while. We found that it was fine for racing but it was definitely easier to track cars with light kits (obviously) compared to unlit ones. So while it's currently doable I think I'm going to add a few more
  27. 1 point
    My versions of ff50 and fk130 motor pods FF50 AW fitted under a Ferrari 612 Dart body FF50 in line fitted under an Alfa Romeo monopsto Ocar body FK 130 in line fitted under a Lancia Fulvia SCX FK130 AW fitted under a Rover PreWing body
  28. 1 point
    Been a long time since we had any front page news update, so here is something slightly drool-worthy. A new model, and in a rather pretty livery. These are due sometime in November from them up in Reggio Emelia. It may not rival the local Lambrusco and Parmigiano Reggiano - what does unless it is the real aged Balsamic from down the road in Modena, but pretty nice anyway. I didn't even mention the bolognese sauce, parma ham, grana padano, provolone, pecorino...... oh sorry, slot cars.... It's a Datsun, a GT-R BRN32 Datsun - to be precise This particular livery was the winner of the Macau Guia Touring Car race 1990. It is fitted with the same drive train as the DTM Touring cars, and is designed to compete against them on the slot track. Hopefully Slot.it will eventually release the BMW M3 of the era, which model competed in both DTM and at Macau 1989 to 1992 and other Asian Touring car rounds. From 1991 the Mercedes 190e already released by Slot.it competed in the same Asian race series. …. I hope we can all see where this might be leading. [No I don’t know anything, just hoping] Two more liveries of this model were announced at Nuremburg, roll on the Nissans Chassis: Podded Motor: Slot.it V12/4 21,000rpm 150g*cm 7.9 watts @12V (MX15) mounted as Inline Axle & Gears - 2.38mm (3/32nd) Gearing: Crown 28t - Pinion 9t brass Has adjustable height front axle - this requires optional M2.0 Hex screws not supplied with car Hubs: 15.8mm x 8.3mm - plastic front, alloy rear Tyres front and rear: Product code PT1228C1 M2 allen key under box for rear hubs and for optional screw for front axle adjustment SSD Upgradable: Yes, use Slot.it chip SP15b Meanwhile my diet is ruined, off to the refrigerator.
  29. 1 point
    No problems IM Its a bit mucky, maybe I should have given it a bath before I took the pics!
  30. 1 point
    Started making some lights too...
  31. 1 point
    Some pics of more progress: Pit Lane line marking Added some fencing... Planning marshall points Working on improving my trees... these were quickly added to get some atmosphere. Pit Wall ready for signage.
  32. 1 point
    A couple of new Scalextric Cars have landed and one in particular is going to make some Aussies happy. The Brock Richards Bathurst winning A9X Torana looks fantastic although missing some sponsorship decals. Some differences to the 4 door Torana Scalextric have been punching out over previous years and all for the positive. The other car of interest to me is the GT4 Mustang. This is also well done and looks like a winner. I will add some detail later in the week on both cars.
  33. 1 point
    That is a great looking Nova, lots of detail has been put into it. Chris.
  34. 1 point
    I have been researching colours for an Aussie Mini to do a paint of a BRM white kit. I found a nice blue one that Peter Manton ran and during my research I found that Norm Beechey ran a Chevy Nova also in the blue. With some help from Auslot members I found a suitable blue. (Went for Duplicolor Blaze Blue - thanks Alan) Now all I need to find is a 1/24/1/25 MKII Cortina and I will be able to do the whole team. A friend had a AMT slot kit in need of a new home
  35. 1 point
    Give me a break Phil! Your cupboard is like Dr. Who's TARDIS, or perhaps "Space, The Final Frontier"? There are places in it that no man has ever been before. I would have to build a 1:32 scale Starship Enterprise and travel at Warp Speed to see it all. Den.
  36. 1 point
    Next phase: I was tossing up between signage and lighting but as I can't get the printing done for the signage, lighting won. The design I scribbled way back in 2011 has remained in my head, continuing the modern and industrial theme. It was time to finalise it for production based on the prototype- I decided to add some height and reduce the head angle from 45 to 40. Months ago I'd ordered some plastic H beam stock, enough to do 15 light poles. Of these 8 would be double headed. I wanted nice bright LEDs, enough light to race the cars without ambient support but not completely flooding the track. Ended up choosing a 5mm high-CRI model from Yuji rated at 8 lumen/15k mcd with a 45° view angle. They draw up to 30ma. The lights are on a separate 12vdc psu. Each light is removable and modular so the wiring would be done in parallel with a resistor for each LED. Decided to use JST connectors- cheap and only plug in one way. Perfect. First started milling up the plastic with a rotary tool mounted to a holder with compound table which made easy work getting clean consistent angles. For the lenses I used some 9mm perspex I had laying around. I ripped a strip of this on my table saw and crosscut some small sections. The light heads were assembled and welded together, then I drilled out the hole to accept the LED. I decided to punch all the way through to eliminate any dispersion underneath and simplify the drilling operations... Then the heads welded to the poles Welding the clean cuts together gave an excellent bond, seamless on most of them after a brief file Finally the bases with flange to mount onto the table. I didn't have access to a 3d printer but that would be the way to go Assembled one to test the height, just to make sure.. It's a little taller than the plywood test rig Happy with that so onto the base gussets Next- prepping material for wire cutting and stripping, soldering... LEDs mounted through the back of the head so the flange holds them in place Positioned resistors to be hidden by the base One down, 14 to go... Done! In order to finish the installation I had to build the hairpin island I'd been planning for a while. I wasn't happy with it all flat, just looked wrong. Cut the island shape out of mdf, with a ply base Decided to use blue xps for the walls. First time using it, I've had some kicking around for a while. It might be possible to use 3mm mdf but it seemed like it would be a lot of effort, based on my previous experience Initial pass with a hot wire cutter. This left a lot of ripples so I think it's underpowered for this stuff. But the stuff can be shaped with common tools so no big deal. Creates a huge mess though, be warned! The reference I used was a tutorial that recommended poly filla for the surface protection but I only had builders bog. I don't recommend it, couldn't get a nice finish. Not a problem in this application however as I liked the resulting rough look. Primed and spray painted in the same colour as the rest. For some extra detail I scribed in some lines on the section of base plate to resemble gutter areas and carved a drain near the end. Finally got everything wired up. Sorry for the potato pic but I've misplaced my DSLR battery charger.... I'll find it and redeem myself More lighting to come, see you soon...
  37. 1 point
    I like the Nova and have one in my pile
  38. 1 point
    Picked up this old Exclusiv 1/24 Carrera E-Type Jag not being a big fan of street slot cars I did some searching and found a chap raced his back in the mid 60s. A bit of a modification and some decals and here we have a sweet looking race car https://postimg.cc/F7tk8kmP
  39. 1 point
    For being "reasonably new to slot cars" you're doing great. ..... You're streets ahead in terms of IT and 3DP than I am and ever hope to be.
  40. 1 point
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  41. 1 point
    Hi Rosco, WoW, thank you for such a terrific reply. Me, well I've had an interest in all things related to wheels since I began to walk and talk I think. I started off with matchbox cars that I used to play with in the yard where I would build tracks in the garden and drive the cars around. Sometimes my neighbour would come with his cars and we have races, crashes and car shows. Nothing like imagination! I ended up with 2 stanford school cases full of cars that were bought with my 50c a week pocket money for keeping the yard clean. I think the cars were 20c back then. I did have a battery powered figure 8 slot car set. Long gone now but my best slot experience was with a Grp20 womp womp that I bought from a slot car centre in Sydney. I think it was about $5 second hand. I put new tyres on, an EH holden body that I painted metallic burgundy with silver detailing and brown tinted windows. It looked a treat and I had a heap of fun racing it against more "slippery" womp womps. The owner of the centre put clear "wings" (like a speedway sprint car) on my car for me and I was allowed to keep running with the "slippery" bodied cars. That was even more fun as I was racing for wins instead of just hanging on. I sold that car to help fund my Speedwell push bike and that was the end of slot cars for a while. I had some AFX set ups over the years but other interests took over. Real cars, motorbikes, girls, surfing and work took over my life. I had developed an interest in building model cars and drawing for my "indoor" hobby but eventually building and restoring motorbikes took over as a hobby. I raced dirt bikes for a while and even got into vintage racing. I still build/restore bikes but don't race so much these days. Being so bloody cold in rural Victoria over winter, I needed an indoor hobby (instead of staying in the shed til all hours) and rediscovered slot cars. I have a good collection of Scalex and Pioneer road cars but there aren't many Aussie cars to be had. I have only used my rally cars on track, as like you I think the others are more a collectors thing. I also have some AFX again as there really is more race in less space! I have toyed around with developing a new 1/64 chassis for the AFX size cars as I want to have old muscle cars that actually belong on the chassis and not just "sit" on it with wheels sticking out way past the body line. I've taught myself how to do resin casting and have had some pretty good results with "test" bodies for the AFX and the new chassis which got me thinking about 1/32 cars. The torrie was my first choice as not only is it my favourite Aussie car but I hadn't ever seen or read about a slot car version being available until I stumbled onto this forum and this thread started by you. Seeing as I had already started on my Torrie project before I got here, I will continue on with it. I do like the idea of building brass chassis. It is well within my skill set. However, I'm thinking of making a molded chassis to start with as I have some ideas on how to make the "plastic" chassis work better. Getting it lower to the track would help for a start I think. An adjustable height motor pod and steering would be nice too. On that note, I have sent an email to "chase-cars".com but I haven't heard back from him and all the bits on his website are labeled as zero stock. I'm guessing he lost interest or the business wasn't viable. I'm not attempting to start a new business. I'm just attempting something different for the fun of it and hopefully make something better than what is currently on "off the shelf" models. If I get it right, making the plastic chassis will be done within an hour and ready to put the running gear into. It is all just a thought bubble at the moment. Like you, I do like tinkering and that is a big part of my interest in slot cars as well. I don't have anyone other than the Mrs to race with out here so building cars has piqued my interest. Interesting that you mention a narrow track width slot car with skinny tyres will handle just as good as a wider track slot car with wide tyres. These are the type of details I don't know about slot cars. I do realise that having a really fast motor doesn't translate into a fast car. Just like anything with a motor and wheels, the biggest limitations are found in geometry, suspension and feel rather than all out power. What is it with the Scalex Torana that makes it such a slug? Tyres aside, is it the long can motor? motor position? (balance) ride height? What makes a car brake? Is it the type of motor or does drive grip make the difference? I'm thinking a higher "torque" motor will brake better than a higher rpm motor? I hear you on the wipers that Scalex put on the cars. They are fugly and way out of scale. Leaving them off would indeed look better. Better still would be to have them molded into the body and the screen, then they can't break off. I may be able to make up some suitable glue on wiper assemblies. I have both the the SLR and GTHO models so making a revised set shouldn't prove too difficult. Anyway, I should get off my arse and do some actual work. Cheers Mark
  42. 1 point
    Been running the M6A for some time and it,s settled down to being a very good car , that motor is quite quick now it,s nicely run in and i,ve put a little weight up front to give more control of the front end which seems to have worked, also wore the tyres on the rear out , easy to do on Carrera track not a lot of ground clearence to start with on the rear. Fitted NSR Supergrip slicks to it and that has knocked 2 10th's of the lap time.
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