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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/20/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Making Trax Twelve months ago I was writing of the unknown future we had ahead of us with Covid 19. Victoria was particularly hard hit, but there was a good news story in the slot world, and that was the Mr Slot Car slot shop businesses operating out of southeast Melbourne. AMC spoke to one of its owners, Peter Van Horssen to find out what has been happening. Australian Muscle Car: When and how did you first get into the retail side of the hobby? Peter Van Horssen: I had built a track and placed it onto an old trailer, which allowed me to roll it into the middle of the garage for us to play with. Soon after, my neighbour suggested I take it along to a fair at my daughter’s new primary school. Amazingly, I got requests for bookings on the day, and so the Mr Slot Car story started. AMC: Who makes up the Mr Slot Car business? PVH: There are three of us, with another fellow on standby on busy weekends. With my wife Debbie, and Peter Dimmers, we run the shop from week to week. That includes, retailing, hosting parties, corporate hire, design and manufacturing the modular range of Mr Trax products, importing and some distribution. And sometimes, local and interstate deliveries. AMC: How did you get to this point? PVH: We started in 1994 with a single portable slot car track mounted on a trailer, and added another one the following year. We also purchased an old eight lane commercial hill climb track and located it within a skate centre in Cranbourne. In 1996 we moved to a factory in Narre Warren where we added a drag strip and a smaller hire track made from Ninco plastic sections. In 2001 we moved into Dandenong and after 16 years and a mix of 19 different tracks over that period, we made the latest move where we are now in our own purpose-built 800 m² facility which includes the raceway and licensed café with an adjoining CNC manufacturing complex where we make the track modules. AMC: The onset of Covid 19 must have come at a bad time. How has the last twelve months gone for you? PVH: Like other businesses, we had to rethink our strategies. It made us concentrate in other areas to maximize our survival, like increasing our product range and design features. AMC: How did the wooden track side of the business come about? PVH: I think it was in 2013, when it was our turn to host the Model Car Nationals slot meeting in Dandenong. I decided to design and build a new track to suit that race meet. Since then, we have built many commercial and corporate tracks that sit in almost every state of Australia. I got started with a router. I’ve spent many hours crawling over sheets of timber on the floor with a long straight edge and a hand-made compass. It can be a long and tedious process but thankfully I’ve now moved to CNC manufacture. My good friend Miguel La Torre (an Engineer) set me up with a licensed CNC program and said, “I know you’ll do something with this”. Miguel saw my vision and knew what I needed to progress it to the next stage. Now, after many hours of practicing, CNC programming has become second nature. AMC What designs are available using your modular track system? PVH: At the moment we have four systems available with a multitude of combinations. The folding two piece track we call the Lockdown Track in five options/sizes. We also have a modular speedway oval system in seven designs. Then there is our regular two and four lane modular system with about fifteen modular tables to choose from. And our latest 2021 release is the Mr Trax hybrid system. It has all the regular analogue two lane modular pieces plus the new digital sections. So now you can assemble as many modular tables as you like, and at any time, insert digital lane change sections to run up to six cars on two lanes, with pit lane access and re-fueling etc. AMC: What makes up your typical track systems? PVH: The tracks are made predominantly from MDF, supported on steel folding legs, and for digital racing we have integrated the Carrera lane change system into our timber tracks. It makes it easy for existing or new customers to add a commercially available product, be it a car or an accessory, to our hybrid system. The track surface is a special black paint we use - a well-guarded secret! It gets a great result whether you are racing with rubber or foam tyres. Our most popular controllers are the Slot.it controllers for the avid racer. And the DS Controllers are a great entry level. Power is supplied by the Hop Wo range of power supplies. It’s capable of handling any track size and power requirements up to 80 Amps. For race timing we use the Trackmate system. It serves the racing and drag racing community. Their range is extensive and very good, and we are the resellers in Australia. AMC: How do you engage with your clients? PVH: We go through all of the basic questions: Is it for corporate use or home. Do they want to hire or buy. What area is available. How many lanes are required. What is your largest group of people. What is the budget. Do they need a full turnkey operation. Do they need delivery/installation/training. We have worked with clients such as Mercedes, Kia, Phillip Island GP circuit, Crown Casino, GP teams, CAMS, trade shows, V8 Supercars, Good Friday Appeal. For custom manufacture we get down to the nitty-gritty. What is the footprint of the space – where are the doors and windows, where is the power, how will people get around the track. Then we get down to systems, how many lanes, analogue or digital. Will it be fast sweeping, or rally style, what kind of cars do they race. I often get asked about doing a Bathurst track, but it is hard to replicate a specific track and not waste space, so then I talk about making something similar that will maximise the amount of track, rather than replicate it exactly. Most people go that way once I have shown what I can produce for them. AMC Do you do scenery as well? PVH: Scenery can be a challenge. We do little ourselves apart from green infields, track borders and fences. You can put in a lot of hours to get a reasonable result which is very hard to make for a good price. We recently acquired the Australian agency for Magnetic Racing. They specialize in high quality, detailed laser cut buildings which are supplied in kit form. The kits come unpainted, so customers can put their own stamp on the buildings to suit their layouts. But if they have the budget and want it made, our good friend Tony Di Pastena (see AMC#103) can make detailed pieces. I can supply the CNC base templates that will drop straight into the track. Tony will add park benches, turnstyles, marshals huts, grandstands – things that suit the layout and it’s all nicely assembled and ready to go. AMC: Where to from here? PVH: There are many loose bits of paper with ideas floating around my office. And every now and then, I decide to explore one of them and bring it to reality. We are forever designing more modular sections to increase the range and versatility. AMC: How can people find out more about your services? PVH: Simple, www.mrslotcar.com or call during business hours 03-9796-3830.
  2. 3 points
    Race catering stole the show, again.
  3. 3 points
    Mr Slotcar, Slot Car Racing and Retail Center, for all your slot car needs. Established in 1994 with a single Mobile Slotcar track. We attended parties, school fetes and corporate functions all over Victoria. In 1997 we opened our first Slotcar Raceway in Narre Warren. 4 years later we moved into Dandenong. Hosting 100’s of parties and staged some National race meetings. In 2017 we designed and built our new 800m2 facility in Hallam. It boasts a number of large slot car tracks, two ¼ mile drag strips, a 2nd level, licensed café, dining/party area and fully serviced retail shop. The Team at Mr Slotcar ... Peter Dimmers, Debbie Shaw and Peter Van Horssen Business hours (subject to change) Normal Hours Tuesdays: 10am - 5pm Wed- Fri: 10am - 9pm Saturday: 10am - 7 pm Sunday: 12pm - 5pm Always Closed Mondays Private Functions upstairs or downstairs by prior arrangements Holidays Australia Day Normal Hours Labour Day Closed Good Friday from 12pm Easter Monday Closed Anzac Day from 12pm Queens Birthday Closed Melbourne Cup Normal Hours Closed Xmas 25th - January 2nd Always Closed on Mondays Here are some pics ...
  4. 2 points
    I have been asked to share some details on how I set up my Sideways Lamborghini, as compared to the standard setup which I have tuned in my Sideways BMW M6. So I thought best to share for the benefit of all. I am not the best builder in our club, let alone across forum. I MAY be the untidiest and the roughest, a badge of grunge that I wear with pride. But my cars go "well enough" to be in the mix at our weekly club race nights. The M6 using stock componentry Front tyres, stock, glued and trued not coated. They will need it as they feel a bit tacky. Front axle, height set with grub screws. Braid - standard. Sideways used their really soft braid on my model of this car. About 3 grams lead near the guide to keep the nose down. None anywhere else. Pod - I have inserted 0.5mm thick soft spacers between the underside of each side pod-screw post and the top of the chassis. Pod screws set with almost no visible slop, JUST off tight so it doesn't flex off the chassis. Maybe 0.1mm gap. This is to absorb shock forces from the torquey motor and bumps on the track. It also raises the pod 0.5mm thus lowering the ride height. Rears, glued and trued. I have tried Sideways Hi-Grip Soft, NSR Ultragrip, Slot.it G25, and N22. All have had a dose of black-arts sauces. There is only about a 0.1 second a lap spread between the 4 tyre sets on my track, I forget which feet it has on it at present. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm screw which suits my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to cushion the body movement. Body, not showing from above, but I have nicked another tip from ChrisGuyW, and mounted little blocks of soft foam rubber inside the middle of the body, JUST clear of the chassis, so the body has rock but a limitation of rock for loading the outside tyre on corners. Spoiler - changed to a soft rubber one for club racing. Original stored !! I have been swapping around the wheel/tyre sets between this, the Lamborghini and my Slot.it Maserati these others both being sidewinder. The Maserati is markedly un-fussy, and runs pretty much the same regardless of which shoes it is wearing. In each case the O.D. of the final tyre setup has slight variation which affects final gearing. With the Maserati, I have swapped spurs going up or down a tooth to compensate as needed. It always feels slightly big and lumbering and heavy, despite being quite a light setup in reality. The lead is only 0.8mm thick, maybe 5 grams per visible slab. But it stays in the slot and is very predictable to drive right to the limit, with no bad habits from day one. I haven't had to do much to this car at all. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm +10mm screws which suit my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to the screws to cushion the body movement Note: The Maserati has a 3 screw body mount - two at font. I like this for setting the amount of body float. I haven't done anything else to this car, and it is running very good times on my track. The Lambo is a bit more picky, it wants lots of grip to stop the heavier setup below. The Lambo has been converted to sidewinder, and up-powered to a ScaleAuto 25K S--can To run it in our local GT3 class I would have had to use a Shark 22, a Slot.it MX16, a ScaleAuto 20k, or the stock "baby" Raptor/King So this setup is actually for our GT1 class And yes, it has been modified a fair bit. I replaced the chassis with a hard one, roughly sprayed so the red doesn't show when body is fitted. About 8 grams weight at the guide - I did that right back at the started, and could possibly reduce this now. Another 10 grams in the pod, I need to play with reducing this. Pod - I have inserted 0.5mm thick soft spacers between the underside of each pod-screw and the top of the chassis. - I am thinking that with this amount of power, I should swap out the standard 0.5mm offset pod, for a ball race version, as they eliminate the possibility of 0.02mm tolerance between axle and gimbal bush. Ergal 12 tooth Pinion, nice and quiet. Spur - It is showing a 36 tooth. I had a 32 tooth in it, but felt I lacked brakes. I put in the 36 tooth in it yesterday as an experiment ..... it has too much braking now. I need to split the difference to a 34 tooth for my track. The 36 would work on the tightest track in club, the 32 or a 33 on our largest and most open track - Thunder Road. Tyres, again, it has had a try with Sideways Hi-Grip Soft, NSR Ultragrip, Slot.it G25, and N22. I like it best with the N22 and the Hi Grip. The G25 were very smooth, but I felt it lacked bite under brakes. I have just fitted a set of NSR 20x12 Extremes which are a bit of a pig to true, but have even more bite and grip. I may stay with these. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm screw which suits my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to cushion the body movement Spoiler - changed to a soft rubber one for club racing. Original stored !! Basically, I still have some development to do on this car as it is still a little off the GT1 pace.
  5. 2 points
    Hi Folks, This car has been built for an upcoming CanAm proxy (1966-1974), and looks to have entries from a few countries While I do prefer to enter scratchbuilt chassied cars, time constraints this year (my golf club has just opened)....I have decided to take the quick and easy route and put together , a Thunderslot chassis, under a Thunderslot M6. I built two variations, with one going to a fellow club member........still undecided on which one to run for myself as they both are very very close in consistency and lap times. Cheers Chris Walker The first is an anglewinder pod, with an NSR 22K, MRSlotcar gearing, silicone damped pod, and a rear axle brace, running on NSR Ultras. The second is a Sidewinder pod (although the T.Slot pods are a 2 degree angle !!, so sidewinder is a bit of a misnomer )..........with a Piranha 21K motor, and essentially the same bits as the other. As I don't like running duplicate liveries, I have done a fantasy livery, which I think looks period correct.
  6. 2 points
    Precisely !!!,..........this complete assembly (motor/axle, gears/wheels )can rotate torsionally, as a complete unit,.... as a motor pod can do in its chassis plate......this torsional rotation of the whole assembly allows the outside tyre to load and compress progressively, improving grip and handling. You do not want any movement in the triangle formed by the motor shaft (pinion), and the rear axle/axle uprights. Cheers Chris Walker
  7. 2 points
    Some time ago i mentioned about the Thunderslot chassis being a bit to flexi hence i started using the hard chassis and pod , basically to stiffen the thing up which work.s very well , as from that mom,ent on never had any flexing in the rear axle area even using much more powerful motors than Chris is here. As he said bracing is not new blimey we used it back in the 60,s a lot and with these plastic chassis and pods today which seem to be getting thinner and thinner i reckon along with Chris it,s a very good mod. those slotting plus tubes are great when you can get them , i have used aliminum and brass tune to do the same thing which seems to be just as good, i expect Chris may disagree with me he normally does with things i do chuckle.
  8. 2 points
    Hi Rosco, The axle brace is actually the "U" shaped brace across the rear of the pod, and ,as mentioned in my prior post, it ties the axle uprights together, eliminating independent flexing of the uprights/bushings. which for a variety of reasons, is not all that good. Motor bracket bracing was seen starting in the mid 60's with most of the top pro racers using,..gussets, brass sheet.wire etc. to stop flexing of the motor bracket, and anything one can do to improve the stiffness of the current crop of flimsy plastic motor pods is a very good idea. More than a dozen years ago Sloting Plus came out with an axle tube that had bushings installed in the tube, and they worked wonders, I bought a bunch, and use them in any motor pod I can. A couple of shots of the brace made for the TSlot motor pod...........a piece of .055 wire bent to fit snuggly into the chassis, and secured with Locktite 380. A SlotingPlus axle tube installed into an NSR pod.......it works wonders And a Eurosport chassis...soldered spring steel, with a wire brace tying both axle uprights together. And a recent build of a very early 70's style chassis with an axle tube.............independent flexing of the rear uprights, has always been a bad thing Cheers Chris Walker
  9. 2 points
    It stops the rear uprights flexing independently,........this can ....1/ cause the axle to bind, 2/ cause mesh issues, and 3/ result in chatter.........none of which are all that good for helping with lap times Cheers Chris Walker
  10. 2 points
    I gave all the cars a quick check over and gave them a short run to make sure everything was OK. There were a couple of cars that need a bit of a tweek to make them nicer to race but in general all of them run quite well. I ran the timer during the test run over ten laps. Some cars are easier to drive than others and that will show in the results over the series. Please don't put too much store in the times as I didn't push the cars too hard but if may give a bit of a form guide to the series. Also note that I had a problem with my controller that I didn't detect until quite near the end of the run which may have affected some cars runs. The cars will be going of to West Adelaide Raceway this Tuesday night with Qualifying set to run on Friday night. Racing on Saturday Afternoon Good luck everyone and hope you all havea good proxy series Cheers Alan
  11. 2 points
    Hello allFinished these two classic Bob Jane Camaro and Allan Moffatt Mustang BRM 1/24 scale white kits.cheersDM
  12. 2 points
    From M-Sport We've been working with FastR and Bentley to create the Continental GT3 Pikes Peak - the most extreme road-car-based Bentley designed to compete for the Time Attack 1 record at this year’s Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
  13. 2 points
    Alexis, you just scraped in at entrant number 24. Any new entrants will be put on a standby list and if anyone drops out you'll be added on a first come, first added. To all of you out there - I'm flabbergasted that you've taken less than 2 weeks to sign up despite me deliberately keeping this a low key affair. I've only posted it here and 1 post on the Slot Car Illustrated forum, nowhere else. I suppose it means I need to make sure it's the best reported, most informative and above all the most fun proxy on the planet. Thanks guys (and gal).
  14. 2 points
    Policar Generic F1 - Stage 4 Review Somebody on Auslot or was it FB mentioned they thought Policar F1 went better with NSR F1 tyres. Tried this morning. No apparent difference so I decided to try the reverse. The NSR F1 maintained the same margin over the Policar. My theory is the NSR F1 is about 9gms heavier hence the better traction. I appreciate this is mainly down to the heavy FX180 motor but at this stage anyway I consider both tyres are very similar. At some time it might be interesting to try some Slot-it GP tyres. Hope this is of some interest. Regards Charles Le Breton
  15. 2 points
    Good footage, Scott. Nice one I just wanted to add in how much I enjoyed hanging out with you all. It was good seeing the regulars back again and meeting some new faces. Race Catering exceeded all expectations(!), and there was a good, postive vibe in the shed all weekend long. I enjoyed seeing Bingo’s innovative parts business going properly commercial for the first time, and it was cool seeing the mid-pack being so close and competitive during racing. Every year the racing is faster and the driving standard continues to improve. Let’s do it again.
  16. 2 points
    Guys I'd love to grace your shores one year for this event.
  17. 2 points
    Thanks Peter great to have you back up and posting.
  18. 2 points
    Plenty of things to paint
  19. 2 points
    Hi David The Parma controller looks like a 1.5 - 2 ohm that are used with 16 D motored cars at commercial raceways. Might be a little savage with scale cars but can be modified for the smaller type motors. Cheers Jimmy
  20. 2 points
    Was not going to get this new car yet was going to wait for a decalled version, but amongst the test cars was a painted yellow one which i rather liked and i knew i had some decals to make it look a lot better than a yellow slab. On arrival it looked rather good and after taking out the magnet and inserting the front grub screws i gave it a warm up on the track, the rear tyres are treaded Supergrips and after a bit of running came in well as far as grip was concerned, now the motor is the 21-5 k evo which has a good turn of speed as it ran in, now over here this motor has caused a bit of interest as all the motor nerds reckon it,s 21-9 in the k range , i don;t know aBout that but it,s quicker than my older NSR motors in that form, just had to paint that driver. On the track it,s lively needs weight and softer braids in my opinion , front lifts when applying full power the motors run in and the rears have gripped up, and all is smooth so definitly weight the front, enjoyed the car great slot car , but i knew i could do better as i had the parts to do so. First was fit the NSR wood guide and softer braids, , motor wise used the Pirana 25 K ballrace motor which i am using a lot now , give loads of control smooth and very quick in this form, as i was using a ballrace motor only right i ballraced the rear axle , then some weight note the picture , decided to keep standard gearing, all the wheels and the original rear tyres as they were operating very well on Carrera track. Back on the track and yep lap times were soon in the modified Thunderslot range , can see this car being a very good stable mate for a mod Thunderslot in the same configuration which mine now are except for one Lola Spyder which is basically now the slowest of this fleet of cars , next for mods, i have no where to race so it,s me against the clock with each class of car i have and during the pandemick i have really gone to town in my quest for fast great handling cars. Few pictures.
  21. 2 points
    Content on here has been a bit slow - here's a build I did for an AMC article a while ago. Being from The 'Gong, I've always had a soft spot for the Byrt Ford cars that appeared at Bathurst in the old Series production days. Started with a Scalextric Phase II GTHO in Diamond White. Opened the driver's window as required in the race regulations and turned 12 slot wheels from an Oz Legends die cast Falcon in to inserts. Added Patto's decals and a race driver.
  22. 2 points
    Rosco's Cooper arrived today after spending the weekend in the seaside village of Semaphore. Yes indeed it is, A big thanks to Stubbo for sending over the case and allowing us to use it to move our little around the country this year.
  23. 2 points
    @MrFlippantThanks for taking the time to put thisvideo together. As a new comer to more serious slot cars racing and knowing little about controllers it took away some of the confusion I had. I have always just been an old school controller guy who ignored any of the bells and whistles as I always looked at controllers as something all racers should use the same. I guess this attitude gets back to the rich kid having the best bike and the poor kid having the best talent. In saying all this I need to get on board and get a controller.
  24. 1 point
    It is sometimes a bit complicated here running on mainly Carrera or recently Policar track when you enter proxies which are mainly on wood tracks , what works well on one does not always work well on another, running on Carrera which is now around 6 years old is not that easy to set up as it,s got a bit worn, so you have to allow for that , where as the Policar track is great to run on as it,s not had the wear so easier to set up on and gives a better feeling of how the chassis is really working. Having said that i actually have built a set of cars in most of the proxy classes specifically for wood as a friend of mine over at Stanstead has the old 4 lane Ford Dunton track so occasionally i can set up my cars on that especially for the NZ proxies like the Group 5 e.t.c, and it,s suprising the differance in the times , the wood track is pretty smooth and a painted surface , and of course i can run cars lower than on Carrera because you have to allow for the rails on that. There are so many differant things you can do for spacific tracks , always good to get advice from those that know, and for Chris i don't need rails to get a Pirana 25 k ballrave motor to go well , one of mine holds the lap record at the Ford track and wood has not mag attact, chuckle unless you know differant.
  25. 1 point
    He certainly is Den, but,...it is considerably less stiff than the Scaleauto RT3 "red" pods.........far less critical on plastic, but, very noticeable on wood. Cheers Chris Walker
  26. 1 point
    Hello to all the 'Sideways Tuners'. As well as the Scaleauto 'red pod' option mentioned by Chris Walker, Sideways themselves make their own angle-winder 'red pod' that is claimed to be stiffer than the standard item. Unlike their standard pods the red-pod is a one-piece moulding with an offset of .700 - there is no option to change the offset as is the case with the standard pod set-up. For me the advantage of the Sideways item is that I can actually buy the part in Australia, and have fitted them to my Lancia Montecarlo and Miller Mustang chassis. Do they perform better than the standard item? As I have very few opportunities to test and compare cars I can't offer a measured opinion but based on Chris's technical explanations they should do. As a regular participant in the Worldwide Chat I regularly find myself watching with envy in regard to the equipment that enthusiasts in the Northern Hemisphere have access to. Den
  27. 1 point
    When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  28. 1 point
    Pod movement and torsional flex in the chassis plate are the elements that provide "suspension",......there should be absolutely no movement of the axle in relationship to the motor shaft/pinion. Many motor pods (Slot-it included) are quite flimsy, and do allow some independent "twist" of the axle uprights...........Slot-it themselves introduced a "wire" brace for the rear of their inline motor pods, and while the intent was good, the design, and effectiviness,...not so much!! Chris Walker
  29. 1 point
    Lovely work - again, Chris..... I have the same white kit yet to be started on. First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...? Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed? Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet? Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals. Paint? We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product. It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating. I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play. He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts". Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model. frats, Rosco
  30. 1 point
    I can't help but think that there's been way too much thought put into this, but how's this for a solution: Set a maximum 90g weight limit, but if you podium with a model, you can't run that same model next year. It's a simple rule that fixes a lot of the issues that Mark has raised.
  31. 1 point
    I am just pleased that the standard C1 formula tyres on the monoposto work pretty well. It is nice NOT to need to change tyres for wood use. Someone who shall remain nameless for now, but has a tricky 3 lane wood track south of here, just grabbed sets of wheels, inserts and C1 tyres - presumably to fit to some other brand car. It will be interesting to get some feedback from him in a couple of weeks. - I'll follow up with him.
  32. 1 point
    Good report Mac. Sounds like you are the secret ingredient. Regards Chas Le Breton
  33. 1 point
    Apology/Correction re Policar review. SLOTSNZ/Mark Burgess has kindly corrected me on front wing fitting. You can buy the extra magnets or make your own as I did but more importantly there is a clip included in one of the packets that can be used instead. Silly me thought this was part of the drivers safety package. How wrong could I be. As I have fitted and glued in magnets I am unable to try. It is a little black 5 pronged piece which I thought would have been just as hazardous to small children as the magnets. If my magnets fail I will certainly try it. If anybody has actually used I would be interested to find out how it fared during racing. Regards Chas Le Breton
  34. 1 point
    Looking forward to it! See you all on the track
  35. 1 point
    I will probably race you for that Crown Shaynus. Have entered my old 2006 Holden Commordore V8 again. This time have up-graded motor though from NSR Shark 20 to NSR Baby KIng. It is still very drivable but hopefully has a bit more grunt. Also going to try rubber tyres as event does not have so many rounds. Best of luck with your build. Good to see Sports Racer has been able to host again. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)
  36. 1 point
    Whoops. Before running I forgot I could not easily fasten front spoiler without gluing. Did not want to do that. See the magnets required are available from Slotraceshop - $7.50 for 8 magnets - for 4 cars. At less than $2 a pair why not include and say increase price to $90. There is a chance for a bit of initiative Mark. Appreciate it was not your decision to market separately but how many of us are going to buy 4 cars? I am hoping mine will be compatible in performance with some of my other F1 cars. A bit of Kiwi DIY however and I cut down a couple of old magnets to fit and glued them in with a bit of silicone in case I decide to remove. later. Seems though that a small bracket might be required to keep the spoiler level but perhaps the proper magnets are stronger than my home made ones. Next step definitely to try on track but probably tomorrow now. Regards Chas Le Breton
  37. 1 point
    I have ordered the silver basic generic Policar F1 so will see how it goes. See it comes with C1 tyres so do not know how they will go. Scaly, NSR and Slot-it GP's already on grid. Regards Chas Le Breton
  38. 1 point
    The motor in these is the same 24.5k ff050 as in their classic GP cars. It is a very moderate power - similar to a Hawk or Scalextric motor. The one advantage of power to weight over a saloon type car, gives them a little more oomph, but not the same sort of beast as an NSR 86/89 with that big boxer FK180. The final gearing seems good, they have enough brakes due to the gearbox, and final ratio. The single white body unit I have so far set up, does go well on my smooth surface wood track, just with the stock C series tyres. The long wheelbase gives them a nice feel of handling - to me at least. The G25 series of tyres have just come available for these. It will be interesting to hear how these change handling characteristics for different plastic and wood track surfaces. Would you believe, for me, the test comparison is a 1970s, "plastic toy blob" Scalextric F1, as we run them as a class in club. The earliest ones, which have a Johnson motor get an upgrade with a standard Scaley FC130 held in place with hot glue. We glue and true F22 or NSR Ultragrips on the back, remove the slop in the rear bushes, and tube the front axles, and glue and true the fronts, soft braid, and a spot of weight. Those can run almost the same lap times as a Group C !!! - and my Monoposto is also running almost similar lap times. I haven't tried any alternate tyres yet. That would probably make it faster due to the native handling characteristics. I don't really have time to do any videos at present....
  39. 1 point
    That's my guess too - it may just be a similar model to the 2110, which was optimised for a higher max track voltage and may have a different "bias resistor" value for the same reason. But it would work for rtr racing, its just all in the feel. A 2110 is optimised for 12v, but works down to about 9v just fine, whereas some of the other "club controllers" are optimised for 14-19v track voltage - but work okay down to about 11v. i take it the steel chassis car still has some relatively mild motor like a Falcon, not some nuclear eurosport Group 12 that drains entire power stations.....
  40. 1 point
    Mark we will make sure there are enough of us to push start it
  41. 1 point
    Landscaping done mate and swim spa on order. All planned before we built. No pergola needed we have a 7x3 metre covered balcony and same size covered verandah below. Nothing more left after the swim spa and couldn’t add more to the yard anyway.
  42. 1 point
    Another great selection of cars from Southern Models. I may just have to get that A9X - IMHO it was the best looking paint job. I hope the HDT A9X sets the standard for wheel modelling - the Jaguar wheels will need to be spot on. The same can't be said for the Bathurst Globes on the XYs. If you want a Jag, I'd get in a pre-order. The Poms on the UK forum are pretty grumpy that they won't have access to the BRG version at their suppliers until next year. I'd expect a few overseas orders to raid our stocks.
  43. 1 point
    This is the Scorpius digital multi protocol vertical test track which is currently being assembled Downunder. It will test chip performance on motor drive performance and reliability as well as lap counting and lane changing performance, k limits and reliability. In the picture anti clockwise we have: 1. Carrera Control Unit. 2.Scorpius Lane Brain. This will drive the LEDs and receive lap count and lane change commands. A program we have puts a timestamp into an excel file and produces a bell tone on every successful command, so you can hear it while you multitask. Switch between lap count and lane change using a quick wireless reconfiguration. 3. Scalextric C7042 Advanced powerbase. 4. Scalextric Arc Pro powerbase. 5.Scalextric C7030 powerbase. 6.Ninco digital powerbase. 7. SCX Advance Bluetooth lapcounter. on its way from Spain. 8. Oxigen. Empty, Magnet to be installed under track for start finish line. 2 magnets to be installed for pit stops. Oxigen lane change chip to be installed for lane change testing. This is in preparation for current and upcoming projects. The loop makes for efficient large scale testing, generally in runs of 1000 or 10,000 laps. All lane change testing will be done by routing solenoid driver wires to an LED or possibly a modified Scorpius car chip back to the rest program. Testing of lapcounting on the various systems will use proprietary powerbase or dongle and accompanying 3rd software or app if chosen/applicable. Test loop hardware to be powered by a lab quality 20V, 30A or 15V, 30A regulated and variable power supply in order to test at various voltages/speeds. Connecting leads for each powerbase except SCX have been made up so far. Simple banks of switches will be used to isolate each powerbase as required. First test will be the F1 chip which arrives early next week. And very soon the Scalextric braid plate chip.
  44. 1 point
    Would a refund be more appropriate rather than end user workarounds and compromises?
  45. 1 point
    Don't know hard I will race them but they will be raced. I don't have many display cars.
  46. 1 point
    I just thought I would add my comments as I am also part of the group which Johno was referring to in experiencing the occasional problem with the Slot It Controller There are six guys in our little group and, 5 members use SCP2’s and one member has a Truspeed controller. The member with a Truespeed controller has not experienced any issues with his controller, the issues are all related to the SCP2 controller. The issue we have experienced with the SCP2’s is that the controller once plugged into the track on very rare occasions will go into what I think is a self protection mode where the leds on the controller will all flash when the trigger is pressed and there is no power to the track. It does seem that the controller is reacting to a fault in the power and is protecting itself from further damage. The issue has happened to everyone using the SCP2,s but it is nowhere near as frequent as you may think. It happens perhaps once per meet with one controller on one occasion. It has happened on all four routed tracks that we use so it has occurred on tracks with different power supplies and different tracks. Personally I am reluctant to say it is a short such as braid arcing across lanes as it is happening on different tracks. I do not believe it is wiring as again it happens on multiple tracks. Johno’s comment about plugging in a resistor controller on the lane when the fault occurs and then reconnecting SCP2’s I think is more to do with the time it takes to remove the SCPs connect and test a resistor controller and the plug back in the SCP2 which has allowed the SCP2 to reset and it then works again. In summary the problem does exist it is quite rare maybe once per one or two meets can be any of the 5 controllers. It does not happen to Professor Motor, Pama, Truespeed controllers and seems to be the controller reacting to something and going it protection mode which is cleared when the controller is reset by unplugging and reconnecting the controller. If anyone at SlotIt wants to to contact me I would be happy to discuss Regards Tsmsoccer
  47. 1 point
    Exactly, SlotsNZ..... This hobby has a much wider and more diverse spectrum than the name might suggest.. although it is cars which are predominant, and running them in tracks with slots in them is the main stream purpose..... it should never be concluded that the only facet is racing or running them.... I am by no means expert in any of these facets - but my experience in almost all pertaining to this hobby are resultant from many years in it.... along with other modeling hobbies - which I am happy to state that lend themselves very well to each other.. Painting a model is probably the most critical static component of what eventuates as a model.... for the most, it's the paint that people see.... the wheels, tyres and fittings are secondary to what a well painted model can bring modeling into scale reality... and it is in this thread, which I am a little surprised to find - little information has been previously thrown up for members to refer to.. Of course, we could fire off some requests to model paint suppliers - I have watched and read many on-line such productions.... sadly, many of them are little more than chest-beating and "like" searching claims at any exacting usefulness.... and some of them, I'm annoyed to state - are unworthy of what they suggest..... There is a great publication called "painting miniatures" which I have buried away somewhere in a hard-drive... for me, it gave me very much background and base-line fact when I began to struggle with many of the finer demands.... simple tricks which made achieving a more detailed result without demanding tens of hours in setting up to do so.... it is probably my go-to doc that I reference if I get stuck.... or if something doesn't come up as expected... there is always reason - finding the reason is not always easy.... I have seen some amazing painting and decal work in this forum.. and hold high hopes that those who clearly show capability - will chime in with the "secrets" held to produce such high calibre work.... My painting work is pretty basic, at most some finescale masking and a little fine hand brushing detail out.... but I believe I can bring anyone up to where I'm at pretty easily with a little patience and some practice.... frats, Rosco
  48. 1 point
    Cheers Roscoe. I didn't realise until I went looking for an answer on forum, that there wasn't a lot of actual background data on painting in a concise place. If others still care to add more information on different situations, other techniques, tips, paint types etc, we could compile it into a "101" for painting. Kind of like my 101 for timing systems. That would be a very useful resource. The NSR 917s in solid colours also come out this week, and I notice some makers like Sideways, are releasing the white kits months before liveried cars. Anything we can do to encourage people to do more customs painting, liveries and scratch builds, the better we make this resource.
  49. 1 point
    Hi r377 I suppose I could be cute and state that if you're buying parts from Pendle Slot in the UK the difference between the M6A 'stiff' chassis and the 'hard' chassis is 2 pounds and 25 pence! Pendle list the stiff chassis at 8 pounds 75 p, and the hard at 6 pounds 50 p. That's just for the outer chassis - the pod isn't included in that price. Seriously though, I'd suggest that the stiff chassis may be made of thicker material or perhaps a different material that doesn't flex as much as the hard or standard versions. It's hard to tell from the pictures on the website as they appear identical apart from the different colours. Which version you'd select would probably depend a lot on the track you're racing on - perhaps a standard set-up for shorter, twistier tracks, harder set-ups for bigger tracks with long straights and flat, sweeping corners? I bought a hard pod (MTS001G) and mounting hardware (FIX001) in order to experiment with the Sunoco M6A that I purchased a few months ago so I could have an alternative set-up for different tracks. But I haven't yet used it as I was reluctant to make changes to a car that was working reasonably well. Without access to a local track I am unable to test and tune prior to the infrequent race meetings that I attend. The following sequence of events demonstrates the perils of last-minute preparation. 1. Classic Sports car final at my former local track - 3rd place (99 laps) just behind the winner (101 laps) despite a rear tyre that was slightly out of true. 2. Practice at distant track (Hobart) with trued-up tyres - smooth handling, fast car doing lap times that were straight out of my dreams, sub-6 seconds. 3. Same track 3 weeks later - a rushed change of tyres to comply with local rules led to the spur gear screw working loose, and jerky performance possibly due to lack of side-play of rear axle. At one stage I had the brakes turned fully down and it was still 'stopping on a dime'! In an ideal world I would have built up a complete second chassis to experiment with but the M6A outer chassis wasn't available in Australia. Whether I continue with that plan is now academic as the local series has ended and I may only contest one more race in the the Hobart series before the class 'hibernates' for a couple of years. By then I will be even further beyond my use-by date. Den
  50. 1 point
    Be prepared for a surprise at what Scalextric considered a Sierra, back in the day.......
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