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  2. Okay folks, I have tidied up this thread by removing some posts, so page 1 may look slightly disjointed. We hope that the work of C-Type will be of interest to digital users on forum, and that all contributors will maintain a good perspective. C-Type - if you have some videos of cars running with your chips, any additional stills to show, please share. - Video links should be able to be posted directly into the post, images using the "Insert other media" link at bottom right. Any problems with those, just holler.
  3. Today
  4. Thanks for the info.
  5. Generally retail for around $30AUD.
  6. Looks to be a slot.it SP15B but an early version.
  7. Hi Guys Can anyone tell what this chip is and what's it worth? It's branded Slot It. My search just found one image which says it may be a SSD (is that scalextric sport digital?). Thanks in advance. Mac
  8. You're Invited! Topic: World Wide Slot Car Chat #53 Time: Apr 21, 2021 06:00 PM Central Time (US and Canada) Join Zoom Meeting https://us02web.zoom.us/j/88648709357?pwd=a0JobkU2ZFhsc0hIN1ZYaWY2SGg2UT09 Meeting ID: 886 4870 9357 Passcode: 370026 Time Zone Calculator for 6pm CST: https://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converter.html?iso=20210421T230000&p1=234&p2=179&p3=136&p4=37&p5=240&p6=103 I hope you are able to join us!
  9. I don't recall the unit, but if it is angle-winder, there would be very limited market outside of the plastic track world on the continent. Do you recall the product code - The ScaleAuto product list is a spreadsheet about the size of the calculation for the meaning of life - which is 42, or 56, or something similar. (Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy. "I KNEW there was something fundamentally wrong...." ) I would have sold 10 of every sidewinder complete rolling HRS unit, to 3 of the inline and 1 of the angle-winder, just to give you an idea. I imagine Armchair are the same.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Thanks again, Chris. You have given me more to strive for when I tune a model..... we have all heard of the "fire triangle"... now we have the "drive triangle".... simples.... frats, Rosco
  12. Precisely !!!,..........this complete assembly (motor/axle, gears/wheels )can rotate torsionally, as a complete unit,.... as a motor pod can do in its chassis plate......this torsional rotation of the whole assembly allows the outside tyre to load and compress progressively, improving grip and handling. You do not want any movement in the triangle formed by the motor shaft (pinion), and the rear axle/axle uprights. Cheers Chris Walker
  13. @SlotsNZMark I'd love to be able to buy the scaleauto ready to run chassis kit for my builds and get away from the HRS2 kit. I really think they are a better option however no one in OZ sells them and I also noticed that Pendleslot have no more stock.
  14. It is sometimes a bit complicated here running on mainly Carrera or recently Policar track when you enter proxies which are mainly on wood tracks , what works well on one does not always work well on another, running on Carrera which is now around 6 years old is not that easy to set up as it,s got a bit worn, so you have to allow for that , where as the Policar track is great to run on as it,s not had the wear so easier to set up on and gives a better feeling of how the chassis is really working. Having said that i actually have built a set of cars in most of the proxy classes specifically for wood as a friend of mine over at Stanstead has the old 4 lane Ford Dunton track so occasionally i can set up my cars on that especially for the NZ proxies like the Group 5 e.t.c, and it,s suprising the differance in the times , the wood track is pretty smooth and a painted surface , and of course i can run cars lower than on Carrera because you have to allow for the rails on that. There are so many differant things you can do for spacific tracks , always good to get advice from those that know, and for Chris i don't need rails to get a Pirana 25 k ballrave motor to go well , one of mine holds the lap record at the Ford track and wood has not mag attact, chuckle unless you know differant.
  15. He certainly is Den, but,...it is considerably less stiff than the Scaleauto RT3 "red" pods.........far less critical on plastic, but, very noticeable on wood. Cheers Chris Walker
  16. Oops! If I'd looked back to the start of this thread I would have seen that Mark was actually using one of the red Sideways pods. Den
  17. Hello to all the 'Sideways Tuners'. As well as the Scaleauto 'red pod' option mentioned by Chris Walker, Sideways themselves make their own angle-winder 'red pod' that is claimed to be stiffer than the standard item. Unlike their standard pods the red-pod is a one-piece moulding with an offset of .700 - there is no option to change the offset as is the case with the standard pod set-up. For me the advantage of the Sideways item is that I can actually buy the part in Australia, and have fitted them to my Lancia Montecarlo and Miller Mustang chassis. Do they perform better than the standard item? As I have very few opportunities to test and compare cars I can't offer a measured opinion but based on Chris's technical explanations they should do. As a regular participant in the Worldwide Chat I regularly find myself watching with envy in regard to the equipment that enthusiasts in the Northern Hemisphere have access to. Den
  18. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  19. Pod movement and torsional flex in the chassis plate are the elements that provide "suspension",......there should be absolutely no movement of the axle in relationship to the motor shaft/pinion. Many motor pods (Slot-it included) are quite flimsy, and do allow some independent "twist" of the axle uprights...........Slot-it themselves introduced a "wire" brace for the rear of their inline motor pods, and while the intent was good, the design, and effectiviness,...not so much!! Chris Walker
  20. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged. I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid. I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby. Will PM you and explain pending break..... frats, Rosco
  21. A couple of answers to a couple of questions............ 1/ The paint colour on the M6 is Tamiya TS 58 "Light Pearl Blue".........shot right out of the can. 2/ The triangle formed by pinion (motor shaft), and the rear axle bushings should be as stiff as possible, in any motor configuration (inline,sidewinder.anglewinder)..........flex in this area causes, axle binding, gear mesh issues, and, axle hop,........none of which are highly recommended for quick lap times nor longevity. The stiffness in this area becomes more important with,...stronger motors, grippier tyres, fast/flowing tracks (anything that generates more load/twisting force on the rear of the car. 3/ While improving the rigidity of the rear end "triangle" is absolutely worthwhile, it is far less critical on plastic tracks, where the relative lack of grip, and the bumpy nature of the track (the rear tyres are likely off the track as much as on, when running on plastic), lessens its effectiveness. 4/ The Scaleauto RT3 "RED" motor pods are the stiffest pods currently on the market, and need no modifications 5/ Keith, I do not always disagree with you Cheers Chris Walker
  22. Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare). I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels. It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise... I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now, hence my absence from the forum of late. I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives. Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with... frats, Rosco
  23. @rosco01Firstly great to see a post from you. I miss your detail. Secondly I am glad that you also have learnt about this brace. Cheers Warren
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